April 11, 1889. ) 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
305 
ceases, as it must when the fruit commences ripening. Afford thorough 
supplies of water as required to inside borders, and give liquid manure 
to weak trees swelling a heavy crop. Keep the shoots well attended to 
in tying, thinning where required, so as to give the fruit all the sun and 
air possible for the colouring process. 
Trees Started Early in the Year. —The fruit will soon be stoning, 
and will require care to prevent a sudden check by cold air in the day, 
and too high a temperature at night; 60° to 65° at night, 5“ less on cold 
nights, and 70° to 75° by day with sun are sufficient. 
Trees Started in February.— The fruit is all set and swelling freely. 
Allow a night temperature of 55° to 60°, ventilating above 65°, allow¬ 
ing an advance from sun heat to 70° or 75°, but with full ventilation. 
Disbudding. —This should be attended to early, but not too early, as 
when it is practised before the fruit commences swelling of setting there 
is danger of the shoots being rendered gross, which is fatal to future 
crops. Therefore, as soon as the shoots can be displaced with the finger, 
begin and continue day by day until only the shoots required for future 
crops or the extension of the trees are retained—viz., one from the base 
of the shoots now fruiting and another above the fruit, which last 
should be pinched at a few joints of growth. In the case of trees not 
fully grown it will be necessary to leave shoots about 15 inches apart, 
calculating from the base on last year’s growth to form the bearing 
shoots of next year, the terminals being trained in their full length as 
space permits. Closer training is often practised, resulting in weak 
overcrowded growths, not nearly so satisfactory as growths fully exposed 
to light and air. 
Thinning the Fruits. —In all cases this should be attended to when 
fairly set and commencing swelling, removing the smallest first and those 
on the under side of the trellis, beginning with the weakest parts of the 
trees, thinning proportionately more than on stronger wood, which from 
carrying more fruit will tend to the equalisation of the vigour of the 
trees. Perform thinning gradually, and only leave a few to meet casual¬ 
ties after the fruits attain the size of walnuts. One fruit to every square 
foot of trellis covered by the trees is ample. Nectarines may be left 
a little closer. 
Tying in the Shoots. —This must commence early, it being of the 
utmost importance where symmetrical training is considered, and in 
securing the growths to the trellis space must be left in the ties for the 
swelling of the shoots. Avoid after this very close tying in of the 
growths until the final one before the fruit commences ripening. 
Syringing. —Practise it on all trees not in flower or with the fruit 
ripening twice daily, so as to keep red spider in check, which must not 
on any account be allowed to retain a hold, or it will materially affect 
the present and the succeeding crop. The afternoon’s syringing should 
be done at closing time, so as to have the foliage nearly dry before 
night. In very dull and wet weather syringing should not be practised 
in the afternoon, particularly in the case of vigorous trees. 
Feeding. —Beyond giving water whenever necessary to insure a 
thoroughly moist condition of the border, weakly trees swelling their fruit 
may be assisted with weak liquid manure, mulching the border with 
short partially decayed manure', which will keep the roots at the surface, 
but it will be of little use unless kept moist. 
Late Houses. —The trees are in full blossom, and the flowers being 
very abundant, they should be well thinned, particularly on the under 
side of the shoots. Shake the trees or dust the blossoms individually 
with a camel’s hair brush, feather, or some other light substance, select¬ 
ing the early part of the day, and when the pollen is ripe. Where there 
are means of affording heat the temperature should be maintained at 
50° to 55° by day, and 40° to 45° at night, in all instances accompanied 
by slight ventilation at the top of the house, which should be increased 
when the temperature reaches 50°. In heated houses commence venti¬ 
lating at 50° and close at 65°. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Ixoras. —The general stock of these should have started freely into 
growth, and must be arranged where abundance of heat and moisture 
can be given to them. If practicable, plunge them where they can 
enjoy gentle bottom heat, such as a mixture of leaves and litter affords. 
The night temperature should not fall below 65°. During the day it 
may be allowed to run up to 90° by sun heat. On bright days maintain 
a moist atmosphere and syringe the plants twice daily. Water carefully 
with tepid water, and use it in the same condition for syringing. Grow 
the plants fully exposed to the sun, and if they are wanted to flower as 
early as possible, allow the shoots to extend until they show trusses. If, 
on the other hand, it is necessary to grow the plants to a larger size, 
pinch any shoots that take the lead from time to time. Young plants 
rooted in autumn and placed in 3 and 4-inch pots early in the year, 
may be allowed to grow until they show flower. Plants from the same 
batch that were pinched and placed in 3-inch may be transferred to 
5 or 6-inch at once, or as soon as they are ready. Cuttings may be 
rooted singly in small pots in the propagating frame, and transferred 
afterwards into 3 or 4-inch pots. In these sizes useful decorative plants 
are produced. In many places plants in from 3 to 7-inch pots are more 
useful than larger specimens. These plants should be potted firmly in 
good fibry peat and sand, or equal quantities of peat and loam. The 
old coccinea prefers the former, and is still one of the best for growing 
in small pots. 
Cyanophyllum magnijicum. —Young healthy plants in 5 and 6-inch 
pots should be placed in 8 or even 10-inch pots. Although the latter 
may appear large at first, the plants will, if carefully watered, soon 
develope fine bold foliage. When potting a good shift is advisable, as 
it must have abundance of root room to grow it well. To accomplish 
this care must be taken never to cramp it at its roots from the time 
cuttings are rooted until the plants are given their final shift. The 
size named will grow plants large enough for all purposes. They are 
most effective when about 2 feet high, for as soon as they are confined 
at their roots the lower leaves fade and eventually fall. The plant will 
grow well in any light open compost, but fibry peat and loam, with the 
addition of sand, suit very well. It can be grown in sphagnum moss 
and sand, but runs up tall much more quickly than when a firm com¬ 
post is used. It must be carefully shaded from the sun and given plenty 
of heat and moisture. The plant should be kept free from the attacks 
of thrips, its greatest enemy, which once established it is impossible to 
eradicate without injury to the noble foliage of the plant. Plants that 
have grown tall should have the point removed, when they will branch 
into growth. When a pair of leaves have been developed on each side 
shoot they should be taken off with a sharp knife close to where they 
issue from the old stem. If inserted in sandy soil and kept close and 
shaded they will root freely. The same treatment suits Sphmrogyne 
latifolia, which is equally handsome when well grown. 
Sonerilas. —Young plants that passed the winter in good condition 
will now be growing freely, and will supply a good batch of cuttings. 
These root freely in sandy soil in the propagating frame in pots or pans,, 
and can be inserted thickly. If plenty of room in the propagating 
frame is at disposal the cuttings may be inserted in the pots and pans in 
which they are to be grown. These may be filled with fibry peat, 
sphagnum moss, and sand. A thin layer of the latter may be placed on 
the surface. These plants are very effective in shady positions in the- 
stove during the summer, and are not out of place growing on the 
surface of Orchids—in fact, they add to the appearance of the latter,, 
and do no injury to such kinds as Aerides, Vandas, Saccolabiums, and 
others of a similar nature. 
Bertolonias. —Early autumn-rooted plants that have passed the 
winter under a handlight in the stove will now be growing freely. 
They may be placed in 5-inch pots, and will do in the compost advised 
for Sonerilas. For a time return the plants to the handlights, plunse the 
pots in sand, and plant the surface with any small growing Lyco¬ 
podium. Select a shady moist position for them, and gradually expose 
them to the air of the house. They cannot endure a dry atmosphere, and 
the rays of the sun must never reach them. If a position can be found 
for them where dewdrops hang on the hairs on the surface of their 
leaves, they will grow like weeds, and are extremely handsome when in 
this condition. They often fail because the position assigned them is- 
too light and dry. 
I 
HE BEE-KEEPER 
HINTS FOR BEGINNERS. 
WINTERING. 
While our correspondence has brought us news of the untoward 
spring we have been reading of fine weather in the south. Sunday, 
March 31st, was the first day the thermometer rose above 50° to 58° 
Fahrenheit, but the sultry air and the sudden cessation of work by 
the bees told plainly that the high temperature would not last long, 
and has indeed turned out as we anticipated. Since April 1st the 
weather has been constantly cold, the night temperature being 30° 
and the day temperature 38°, with snow occasionally and not a blink 
of sunshine, consequently seed time is delayed and not a bee- 
ventures out. 
Some of my bees aired themselves for the first time on 
March 31st, and although they have kept within doors since 
October 8th they were all slim and healthy, and scarcely a speck of 
excrement to be seen. Many young bees appeared, and all appear 
advancing fast, the cold notwithstanding. 
These are all Carniolian bees, and have received no artificial aid 
whatever ; still they have progressed greatly. They are in my old 
favourite divisional hives with outside cases. Some are and some- 
are not packed on the sides with dried grass, but all are well packed 
above with it, the entrances narrow and at the extreme end of the 
hive, and shaded by the outside case. They are in short all pro¬ 
tected, as I have so often advised. 
FEEDING. 
I did not expect any to be in want, but on the appearance of 
improved weather I gave some of them a little food ; few of them 
have partaken of it, verifying what I have long observed, that bees 
although numerous do not feed readily when much brood is in the 
hive during the spring months, and that you will get bees to submit 
