310 
[ April 18, 18S» 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
notable instance may be given as bearing upon the subject. 
Some four years ago, on visiting Welton Place, Daventry, at the 
invitation of the proprietor—the veteran horticulturist Col. Trevor 
Clarke—that gentleman had a house of Melons about which he 
asked my advice as to what was wanted to induce them to fruit- 
I noticed that they had the right soil—a stiff loam, and evidently 
rich. The plants lacked solidity. I suggested that they wanted 
lime. The gallant gentleman having considerable chemical know¬ 
ledge and no little experience as an analyst, did not ask in what 
shape it was to be applied, but after a little while he remarked, “ I 
will give the plants a little of my wood-ash dissolved bones ’ — i.e., 
superphosphate. This was in May. In the summer the experi¬ 
menter wrote, “ I followed your advice with the Melons and have 
had a capital crop of fine fruit.” 
It is more lime fruit trees require, in a form that enriches 
the soil and nourishes its crops, something better than farm¬ 
yard and other humus-forming manures—superphosphate of lime 
in fact, with an accompaniment of muriate of potash, and we do 
not require so many pounds of the mixture as we do cwts. of 
quicklime and tons of old mortar rubbish to effect equal results.— 
G. Abbey. 
[We give prominence to the interesting article of our corre¬ 
spondent, as it will be noticed it represents progressive advancement 
in ideas. First he examines old mortar rubbish and finds it good ; 
then he discovers that though good it is slow ; hence introduces 
quicklime as better, because quicker ; and, lastly, finds something 
both better and quicker than quicklime for fruit trees—namely, 
superphosphate of lime and potash—quick, that is, in promoting 
growth of a fruitful character, and not mere elongation as forced 
by nitrogenous manures. The next thing readers of the Journal 
will desire to know is the quantity of the mixture to apply, and 
possibly one or two may like to have Mr. Abbey’s opinion as to the 
possibility of the acid in the superphosphate being harmful to fruit 
trees. Dr. Yoelcker has recorded that when used at the rate of 
500 or GOO lbs. per acre harm may be done to root crops through 
the slow precipitation of the phosphoric acid. We have seen no 
such injurious results, but some fruit growers hesitate to use super¬ 
phosphate of lime for the reason suggested. The subject is com¬ 
mended to the consideration of Mr. Abbey and others who may 
be able to express opinions thereupon.] 
TOMATO NOTES AND SUGGESTIONS 
Before planting it must be decided what method of culture is 
to be adopted, and this depends very largely upon circumstances 
and requirements. If a continuous supply of fruit is needed from 
the same house a totally different system of culture must be followed 
from that requisite when a heavy crop is needed, and the whole 
ripened at one time, so that the structure can be utilised for other 
purposes. 
If we suppose that sturdy plants are to be placed out now, and 
these are to yield fruit until the end of December, the plants may 
be planted 18 inches apart at the front of the house for training up 
the roof, whether a lean-to or a span structure. In so doing it is a 
common practice to plant near the front of the house, so that the 
Tomatoes can be trained upright to the first wire. This will do 
very well if the roof space is ample, but if limited it is not the 
best plan that can be followed. If the border is 18 inches or 2 feet 
wide the plants should be in the centre. The majority of varieties, 
however well the young plants may be grown when raised from 
seed, run a distance of 18 inches before the first truss of flowers is 
produced, a select form of Large Red being an exception, showing 
generally under good culture when about 1 foot high. By planting 
them in the centre and training them back, towards the front, and 
then upright, they commence fruiting just above the soil; two or 
three trusses of fruit are therefore produced by the time the plants 
reach the place at which they would produce their first truss if 
trained upright. This method of starting the plants is of con¬ 
siderable importance in small houses, where the space for them above 
the soil does not exceed 2 feet 6 inches. 
When the plants are placed the distance apart indicated one 
shoot from the base may be allowed to extend, and the point and 
all lateral growths removed as soon as a flower truss is visible. 
Shoots of this nature will attain considerable strength, and produce 
a fine truss, which by being subjected to pinching is certain to 
set freely. A usual practice is to allow the plants to extend with 
a single stem, removing all the laterals until they have occupied 
the roof ; the result is that they usually set best near the top, those 
near the base not setting so well. If they set freely at the bottom,, 
then those higher up the plant do not set so. well until the lead has 
been removed. Whatever may be urged in favour of extension, it 
is not the system by which the heaviest crop of fruit can be 
obtained. Neither can this be obtained by allowing the plant to- 
extend on one stem to a length of 8 or 9 feet. They set best when 
the point of the plant is removed, and pinching practised throughout 
the season when a continuous supply of fruit is needed. 
When the plants have travelled up the trellis, say 2 feet, the 
point should be taken out, and all the laterals towards the end of 
the plant as they appear. The whole energy of the plant is con¬ 
centrated in the production of enormous flower trusses if the leaves 
are cut-in moderately at this stage. The flowers will set freely, 
much more so, even under a close system of treatment, than if the 
lead of the plant were allowed to extend. One good lateral, how¬ 
ever, about 1 foot from the end of the plant, should be permitted to 
grow until it gains as much strength as the original leader possessed* 
when it should be pinched, merely taking out the point, again- 
leaving a flower truss at the end. This system may be followed 
until the roof is filled. By this means a heavy crop of fruit can be 
had from the bottom to the top. After the lead has been stopped 
subsequent laterals will appear lower down the plants, and 
some of these may be allowed to extend and gain strength 
until they produce a fair-sized flower truss, when they should be 
pinched. These will not be so large as those from the lead, but 
they are invariably good fruits, swell to a fair size, and are hand¬ 
some in shape. By this system of culture it will be necessary to 
trim the plants at least once a week. The pinching system not 
only results in a heavier crop of fruit, with greater certainty of the 
flowers setting, but the fruits swell much more rapidly when the 
lead is removed than when the plant is allowed to extend. The 
plants should be allowed to break again into growth, and a second 
crop can be secured as well as a third one from the same plants, 
provided they are kept healthy and liberally supplied with food. 
The fruits of the third crop will certainly be smaller in size. 
For a heavy crop of fruit to be ripened quickly the best method 
is to plant thickly, say 9 inches from plant to plant, and the rows 
18 inches or 2 feet apart. For instance, in span-roofed houses 
8 or 9 feet wide four rows of plants can be accommodated. Train 
these upright and pinch when they are 2 feet 6 inches high, or 
do not allow them to exceed 3 feet. The house space must 
guide the cultivator to some extent in this matter, but if the plants 
are trained so a* to reduce their stems and bring the first flower 
truss near the base they need not be allowed to exceed the first 
height given. By pinching and the removal of all laterals as they 
appear the flowers will set freely, and the fruits will swell rapidly 
and ripen quickly if the foliage is freely cut away after the fruit 
attains full size. On this principle the whole of the fruit ripens 
quickly. A much heavier crop of fruit can be taken from a house 
by this method than by any other with which I am familiar. After 
the fruits are set the border may with advantage be mulched with 
manure. Another crop on the same principle can be taken from 
the same house provided sturdy plants are ready in 5-inch pots. 
The soil will need partially renewing. A good crop of Cucumbers 
can be taken from the house after the first crop of Tomatoes. The 
two crops, as indicated above, will be much heavier than from 
plants retained the whole season. The fruit, too, will, on the 
whole, be finer. 
In most private gardens where a supply is needed over a 
lengthened period of time the retention of the plants throughout 
the season is certainly advisable, but for the market the purely 
restricted system indicated is the best. The object is to get a 
heavy crop of fruit early and to ripen it quickly. Large Red 
appears to be best adapted to this mode of culture, although Hack- 
wood Park, Acme, and Sutton’s Earliest of All, as well as some 
others, do remarkably well, but they will produce a longer stem 
before they show fruit, consequently have to be allowed to grow 
slightly higher before they are stopped. It has been said that 
Hack wood Park is a shy setter. This is true if the lead is allowed 
to extend, but if the lead is removed the flowers set freely enough. 
In fact, the secret of a good set is to pinch the plants beyond a 
truss of flowers, or, if only one stem is retained, then when they 
attain the height I have named. 
It has been advised to check the plants in their early stages to 
bring about a firm woody condition of growth. No greater mistake 
in Tomato culture can be made. The flower trusses under such 
circumstances are very small. The secret is to start with dwarf 
sturdy plants and to grow them strong afterwards. Abundance of 
light must be admitted and a little air during bright weather; 
