326 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 18, 1889. 
for, and such that the interior is little affected by any change of 
•weather, whether it be hot or cold. 
There was a query put lately in a contemporary of what ihe 
inside temperature of a hive should be, and the answer given by 
one of our modern -writers on bees was to the effect that it 
should be the same as the temperature outside. Could a mere 
tyro have given such an answer ? I think not. There is no use in 
disguising the fact that bee-keepers have been greatly misled by 
urban writers. Bee-keeping is a rural occupation, and cannot be 
learned nor taught by persons standing behind counters. We need 
not repeat the numerous stupid manipulations that have been 
advised, but ask all sensible bee-keepers, aye, even those who 
advised them, what the effects would have been had we 
manipulated our bees in any one way whatever during this 
winter or spring, in which not one day yet has been favourable 
to the flight of bees ? It would have resulted in nothing less than 
disaster. 
We know our bees are progressing, as they always do when 
properly cared for and let alone, just as we see blossom buds 
swelling during this ungenial weather, to expand on the first genial 
and sunny day to the delight of the bees and their owners. 
PACKING HONEYCOMB. 
It is evident that many bee-keepers are not well conversant with 
the packing of honeycomb, so I will amplify a little on what every 
bee-keeper should be an adept at. If it were possible to suspend 
any fragile article in the centre of a case, as if on its own axis, tha^ 
would be all it would be necessary to do, but it cannot be done. 
The nearest approach to it is to surround the article loosely with 
elastic material, and have the packing no firmer than will resist the 
weight of the article. If paper is used do not fold it hard, but 
crumple it together, with the hand, and fill in the openings all 
round, and even if the outer case is jarred the honeycomb or other 
fragile article will be safe. If firm material is used the case, pack¬ 
ing, and article become as one, and a jar that will not injure the 
outer case will destroy its contents. When I used to send large 
supers a distance folded paper was placed between the combs, and 
trusses of hay or straw were placed round, above, and below 
the super. Over the centre was placed a pane of glass, showing its 
contents, so that it was impossible railway porters could fail to 
know what they were handling, and this compelled them to handle 
the supers carefully, because if the glass had been broken the 
Company would have been liable for damages. The first time I 
.sent honey so packed it was returned to our station master, with a 
message to the effect that it was improperly packed. The station 
master returned it with the answer, and a copy of the rates for 
fragile articles, remarking that it was very well packed, and adopted 
the necessary precautions in the interest of the Company. This 
ended the dispute, and the honey went safely. 
Sections ought to be placed in a crate, each section supported at 
the end, so that it stands firm and by itself, then paper should be 
placed between each section similar to the supers. Do not employ 
old newspapers unless tissue paper envelope them. After the 
sections are packed properly in the crate either wrap them with 
hay trusses or pack them loosely in another case, and in most in¬ 
stances they will arrive at their destination safely. There are 
other details, but the packer cannot fail to perceive them as he 
proceeds with the work, and he must pay attention to them. 
In all work in the apiary let it be as natural to the bees 
as possible, always assisting but never thwarting Nature.—A 
Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Mr. PI. Bennett, Pedigree Rose Nursery, Shepperton, Middlesex.— 
JYew French and neiv Pedigree Seedling Roses. 
Messrs, ffm. Paul & Son.— New Roses and Florists' Mowers. 
Mr. T. Painter, Smallwood, near Scholar Green, Stoke-on-Trent.— 
Dahlias. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “The 
Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. 
Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
late Chrysanthemums (IF. R., York ).—Undoubtedly it is late 
for the variety Madame 0. Audiguier to be flowering during the first 
week in April, but flowers are occasionally produced by plants in 
spring. We had Chrysanthemums sent to us during every month last 
year, and amongst them small flowers of the variety named, in April. 
lilium nellgherrense (IF. B .').—This beautiful Lily succeeds 
with the same treatment as L. longiflorum. When bulbs arrive in a 
more or less shrivelled state they should be embedded in cocoa-nut fibre 
refuse or leaf soil, but not covered for a week or two. They then 
become gradually firm and roots start from the base. They should then 
be potted and plunged over the rims in a damp medium in a cool house 
or frame, where the soil will be kept uniformly moist without giving 
water. Yours have probably been too wet at times, and they will be 
better in a cooler place for a week or ten days, then plunged in ashes 
in a cold frame, protecting from frost. We fear roots are not starting 
freely from the bulbs. 
Fumigating (Desirous ').—Your question is unanswerable. Every¬ 
thing depends on the houses and the state of the wind as to the 
quantity of paper to use. Choose a still night, and consume sufficient, 
taking care to avoid flaming, till you can only faintly see one end of 
the house when you stand at the other. That will be a light fumigation, 
and should be repeated till no insects are left alive. This is very much 
better than producing a very strong volume of smoke at one time. 
Stimulants for Cabbages (E. T. II .).—It is always best to apply 
quick-acting fertilisers in showery weather, and failing this they may 
be used after a good watering, then in dry weather give water again. 
Nitrate of soda may be used once, twice, or thrice during the season to 
any garden crops that require “ pushing on but it is to be remembered 
that the growth thus incited deprives the soil of phosphates, thus leaving 
it the poorer. Nitrate of soda, though much quicker in action, is not 
nearly so complete as a manure as good guano is, and should be supple¬ 
mented with bonemeal or superphosphate of lime, It is not advisable 
to app'y nitrate of soda late in the season, as it forces growth and 
makes it tender, possibly to be destroyed by frost. 
Cyclamens (71 II. IF).—Many gardeners besides yourself fail in 
growing these plants as they are seen in Covent Garden Market, at the 
London shows, and in those trade establishments which have become 
famous for their production. These have been more than once described 
in our columns, and the methods adopted indicated. Nor is failure 
always the want of skill, but conveniences and soil exert an influence, 
for we know of men wbo have no difficulty in growing the plants, 
whereas under other conditions in other gardens they have failed. We 
think you keep the plants too close and warm in the earlier stages, 
weakening them at the outset, from which they never recover. You 
had better perhaps adopt the method described by a correspondent in 
another page. It is very simple, and we have seen it carried out with 
the most satisfactory results. 
Vine’s Shoots Decaying- (IF 61).—The most probable cause of the 
shoots dying at the points is defective root action, and a very damp house. 
The border being outside, sunken and shaded, must be cold and wet, 
though it may be well drained ; the situation is most unfavourable. 
The large open tank will not prejudicially affect the Vines as regards 
their breaking. The defect is in the border, which nothing short of 
removal can remedy. It will be necessary of course to form a border of 
more open material with better drainage and means of throwing off the 
wet in winter. Similar remarks apply to the Vines in the other house, 
shanking being a result of imperfect root action—a deficiency of 
support. The only means you can employ at present is to encourage 
growth, allowing as much to be made as can have exposure to light, and 
then keep the shoots rather closely pinched. 
Melons after Cucumbers (Idem ).—It is necessary to remove 
I the whole of the soil used for the Cucumbers, and after thoroughly 
