April 25,1880. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
345 
done in the morning only, and not then if the weather be dull. The 
chief thing in these structures is to secure a well ventilated atmosphere 
in the early part of the day, to have the border well supplied with 
moisture, but presenting a somewhat dry surface, and to close before 
the temperature is much reduced, so as to enclose a moderate amount of 
solar heat. Wc find that with due regard to early ventilation, con¬ 
tinuing it until 5 p.M. or later, that on closing the walls give out heat, 
and the atmosphere being dry the blossom is safe. It is moisture that 
makes the difference between a good set and a bad one, and also between 
safety and danger from frost. Water, if needed in such structures, 
should be given in the morning of a fine day, so that superfluous 
surface moisture may be dissipated before night. 
Insects.— Aphides and insects infesting fruit trees, forced or other¬ 
wise, come with easterly winds. Fumigate upon their first appearance. 
Nothing is so disastrous as fumigating whilst the trees are in blossom, or 
carelessly afterwards. If the houses are fumigated before the blossoms 
expand, there will be no trouble during that period, and afterwards the 
appearance of one aphis should be the signal for having the foliage dry, 
and fumigating upon the first calm evening. It must be done carefully, 
or the foliage and fruit will suffer. Better fumigate on two or three 
consecutive evenings than jeopardise the present and a future crop by 
an excessive dose. Nothing reaches aphides so effectually as tobacco 
smoke. If syringing fails to dislodge red spider, assail it promptly with 
an insecticide. Those advertised are efficacious if care be taken to follow 
the directions. The pest dislikes a solution of softsoap 2 ozs. to the 
gallon, and so does mildew equally with flowers of sulphur. Apply the 
latter to the part affected with mildew. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stephanotis. —Plants in rapid growth and showing bloom freely 
should not be hurried. Expose them fully to the sun, and gradually 
increase the amount of air on bright warm days. The syringe should 
be applied twice daily and liberal supplies of water given to the roots. 
If grown in pots, and these are full of roots, weak liquid manure may 
with advantage be given every alternate watering. Maintain a night 
temperature of 60°. By this [treatment sturdy growth will be made, 
and large fine flowers produced from every joint. Flowers which 
expand in too much heat lack both size and substance ; in fact, the 
growths lengthen out so rapidly that they are incapable of producing 
fine flowers. Young plants, or those not yet in active growth, may be 
pushed forward in brisk heat. When young shoots 8 or 9 inches in 
length have been produced the temperature can be gradually lowered. 
This applies to plants from which flowers are needed ; when the exten¬ 
sion of the plant is the main object grow them as rapidly as possible. 
Poinsettias .—Old plants should be induced to yield sturdy growths 
about 2 inches in length for cuttings. Keep the plants fully exposed 
to the sun, and if they have been grown in brisk heat remove them to 
an intermediate temperature. Short yet strong cuttings are the secret of 
success, and are certain to root freely under favourable conditions, which 
is not the case with cuttings that are produced in a warm moist 
atmosphere. 
Centropogon Lucyanus. —Plants which were cut back and have 
started into growth may have a portion of the old soil removed, and 
he placed in 5 or 6-inch pots. Start them into growth in a close 
atmosphere and shade from bright sun. Before cuttings are inserted 
harden them on the same principle as advised for Poinsettias. If re¬ 
moved to a cool house a week or ten days prior to insertion they will 
root all the better. The cuttings should be taken off with a sharp 
knife just where they issue from the old stem, and may be about 
2| inches long. 
Euphorbias. —These may be grown in heat until the cuttings are 
large enough, when the plants must be removed to a cool house for a 
fortnight. Every cutting will then root if inserted in sandy soil and 
covered with bellglasses. It will be necessary to shade them from the 
sun and place them in a temperature of 65°. They strike better with¬ 
out the aid of the propagating frame. 
Plunibagos .—These should be potted singly in large 60’s, and grown 
for the present in a temperature of 65°. Grow Linum trigynum under 
the same conditions, and pinch the shoots when they have made 2 or 
3 inches of growth. The whole of the plants mentioned thrive well in 
loam, one-seventh of manure, and the addition of sand, but free growth 
should be encouraged until the plants are placed in their flowering pots 
by the addition of one-third of leaf mould to the above compost. 
Jnsticia flavicoma. —This is unquestionably one of the most useful 
plants that can be grown for conservatory decoration during the winter 
and spring. Many kinds of plants only flower once and are then done 
with for a year, but these Justicias flower a second and even a third 
time by removing them into heat after the first plumes have faded. 
Cuttings should be inserted from time to time as soon as they are ready, 
singly in small pots in brisk heat. This may be continued until the 
middle of July, but the later plants must be flowered in 3-inch pots and 
grown without pinching. The early rooted cuttings should be pinched 
once. If a few large plants are wanted three or four cuttings may be 
inserted in the same pot and grown together. It is best to grow the 
stock of plants needed from cuttings annually ; they grow with greater 
freedom and are less liable to insects than old plants which have become 
stunted in their growth. Young plants are also furnished with bold 
leaves to the base, which the older are not. 
Sericog raphis Gliicsbreghtiana .—Root the cuttings singly in small 
pots, and grow the plants fully exposed to the sun. It will be necessary 
to pinch the shoots from time to time to induce them to branch. After 
bushy plants have been produced in cold frames it is necessary to> 
thoroughly ripen the shoots in order to flower them profusely. 
m 
By 
HE) BE)E-KE)E)PE)R$S 
HINTS FOR BEGINNERS. 
COMB BUILDING. 
In my former letters attention was directed to the manner in 
which bees build their combs when left to themselves in a state of 
nature in this country. The following will explain my meaning: 
for bringing it under the reader’s notice and show the bearing it 
has practically. 
When a small swarm of bees is put into a hive larger than is 
necessary the bees twist and bulge their combs, and often build many- 
small pieces like as many fingers suspended ; whereas, if the swarm is a 
large one the combs may be wavy, but are more lengthy and regular 
in thickness. The above refers entirely to bees in a box without 
aids of any kind to work from. 
To have straight and even combs, especially in supers, these 
should be crowded with bees and kept warm. When this is so the 
combs will not only be straight and of an equal thickness through¬ 
out but beautifully pure and white. This is secured to a great 
extent by having the crown of the hive close unless the side openings 
entirely obviate the necessity of separators, which are at the best 
superfluous and honey reducers. Proof of this can be seen by 
examining any properly managed Stewarton supers, which modern 
methods and appliances have not as yet excelled nor even equalled. 
It will now be obvious that to dispense with separators, honey- 
boards, and queen-excluder zinc, expenses in purchasing are saved, 
also space and trouble in storage, while the bees are not inter¬ 
rupted in their labours by forcing themselves through apertures too 
small for health and freedom, and the mutual benefit so desirable 
in comb-building is cut off by using separators, an error as great as 
is that of reducing the natural width of the combs in the stock 
hive. I have measured hundreds of combs built by bees in a- 
natural way, and without exception every one was exactly inch 
from centre to centre. 
When full-sized swarms from full-sized hives are secured there 
will be no necessity for doing more than putting them into a similar 
hive, provided with foundation and kept warm, admitting the bees 
only at the outer spaces. Sometimes it will be expedient to put 
the swarm into two boxes only at first, thereby securing earlier 
supers ; but the third box should be added not later than three- 
weeks after being hived. 
SUPERING—YOUNG QUEENS. 
If supers are wanted from small swarms it will be necessary to 
contract the hive, and caution will be required not to give more 
super room than the swarm can crowd. Of course common sense, 
the seasons, and the time of honey yield must all be studied. 
These are important points, which none but those on the spot can 
determine. 
When the harvests are expected, such as Heather after the 
Clover, it is of the utmost importance that all hives be in the best 
condition, otherwise disappointment will follow. Unswarmed hives 
and top swarms having aged queens will by the middle of July 
: have relaxed laying, while young queens will be very prolific. A 
fertile queen stimulates the bees to work, and active bees have a 
similar effect upon the queen. I have frequently advised the 
superseding of the aged queen by introducing a young and fertile 
one during July ; but “Felix” rather disparaged this course. I 
am writing from memory, and cannot recall the date, but I am 
confident no action in neglect of this can be justified. Not only 
should young queens be added, but all surplus bees should go to- 
strengthen the best hives. Hereabout the Heather begins generally 
