May 2, 1839. ] 
JOURNAL. OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
361 
Now I shall commence with my subject—namely, the cultivation of 
Hoses under glass. For those planted always provide good drainage. 
The soil that I find suits them well is good turfy loam and subsoil next 
in nature to clay, and a liberal sprinkling of half-inch bones. I am not 
in favour of applying much manure at the time of planting, but I 
advocate employing liquid manure freely all* through the growing 
■season. When they are planted they should be turned out of the pot 
carefully, and the roots spread out with the hand, pressing the soil 
firmly about the roots, and finally settling it with a gentle watering. 
The varieties I find do well for this purpose are the old G-loirc de Dijon, 
the red Gloire or Eeine Marie Henriette, the pink Gtloire, Mardclial Niel, 
W. A. Eichardson, Chcshunt Hybrid, Belle Lyonnaise, and Catherine 
Mermet. Several more varieties might be named, but I think these the 
most suitable for the purpose. _____ 
We will now pass to the culture of Eoses in pots. The compost for 
these should consist of strong turfy loam, with about one-third of cow 
or horse manure. Night soil is still better if it can be dried and mixed 
with the compost three or four months before it is wanted and 
turned a few times. The Tea-scented, China, and Noisette Eoses require 
the addition of leaf mould and a small quantity of sand. 
Commence by having clean dry pots thoroughly drained, with about 
2 inches of broken pots, and then place in each a good handful of half¬ 
inch bones and charcoal, next a handful of the compost that has had 
the fine soil sifted out of it. This will keep the drainage from being 
choked. In potting press the soil firmly round the plant, taking care 
"to have it in the centre of the pot if possible. Put a handful or two of 
the compost in at a time. This must be pressed down with a potting 
stick each time until within an inch or so of the top ; afterwards give a 
gentle watering. _ 
November or the beginning of December is the most suitable time 
for potting. The Hybrid Perpetuals may remain outside until the end 
of the year. Secure the pots from frost and heavy rains by packing 
them closely together. Place a temporary frame of boards round them, 
and fill in with dry leaves. A few pieces of board generally keep the 
leaves from blowing away. The Teas and tender varieties should be 
placed in the greenhouse or where frost can be excluded. 
About the last week in December or the first in January they must 
Toe pruned. The Tea-scented and China and the Noisettes must only 
have a moderate pruning. Cut out all dead wood, weak and un¬ 
ripened growth. Indeed the knife must be sparingly used at that 
time of the year. In pruning the Hybrid Perpetual it is just the 
reverse. Select the best shoots near the centre to train for the leader, 
•shorten it about one-third, pruning the other shoots one-half or three 
parts their length, or cut back to three or four eyes, leaving one or 
two more on the centre branch. After this is done they must be re¬ 
moved into the greenhouse where frost is excluded for a week or two. 
Let us suppose we have reached the 1st February, and that we 
have all the plants ready for their work. Commence with a tem¬ 
perature of 45° to 50°, syringing them every morning. When the 
plants begin to grow increase the temperature to 60° or 65° by day, 
not allowing it to fall lower than 45° by night. Give them as much 
light as possible, and turn the plants round occasionally to keep them 
•equally balanced on all sides. I give liquid manure twice a week, 
and let them have abundance of air at all favourable times, avoiding 
cold draughts as much as possible. I remove all suckers from the wild 
stock as they appear, and attend to staking and training so as to 
have them trained to the form desired. 
As they are growing disbudding is another important operation. I 
remove the small shoots where the heads are too much crowded, only 
leaving the number required, also a few of the smaller buds are thinned 
out. By attending to this point the size and quality of the blooms are 
much improved. About this stage of their growth they are often attacked 
by a grub, that rolls itself up in the leaves, but it is very destructive 
to the young buds. The plants should be looked over daily and the 
■grubs picked off and destroyed. The Bose is subject to the attacks of 
many insects, especially under glass Knowing this, it is well to 
remember the old proverb that prevention is better than cure. Aphides 
are perhaps the most common, but they are easily destroyed. Fumigating 
with tobacco paper is the best way to destroy them, and should be done 
before they are very numerous, as they leave such a dirty appearance 
upon the leaves. I put half a pound of softsoap and half a pound of 
•quassia chips into a pan with about 4 quarts of water, and boil them 
■slowly for half an hour, then strain through a piece of muslin. I use 
about half a pint of this liquid to 2 gallons of water for syringing 
with, which I use all through the season. Of course, I take care not to 
wet the blooms when out. I also paint the hot-water pipe with a 
mixture of sulphur and clay two or three times in a season. This is 
employed against mildew and red spider. Mildew is a great enemy, and 
cannot be kept too much within bounds. I never let the soil get very 
dry at the roots of the plants, and keep a canister with sulphur in and 
a small gum brush, and the least sign of mildew is brushed off. This 
looks a tedious task, but if taken in time it is worth all the labour, 
and I have always found when I have followed up the above directions 
I never have any trouble to keep them clean. Should mildew become 
very bad they must be dusted with sulphur, syringing it off with 
water that has had a table-spoonful of petroleum added to the gallon. 
If kept well stirred this is a sure cure, but bad case3 of mildew always 
leave traces. _ 
As the Teas and Noisettes cease flowering I cut them back. This, I 
consider, is the most important time to prune these, as it prevents them 
getting full of bare wood. Towards the end of June I turn all the 
Hybrid Perpetuals out of doors, and some of the Teas as well, for a 
month or six weeks, when others are brought out and those taken in. I 
find this helps to maintain a succession of blooms. By the end of 
October or the beginning of November all the Teas are housed, which 
continue to give a few blooms up to Christmas. The varieties of Hybrid 
Perpetuals are so numerous that I will content myself with naming a 
dozen or so as follows :—Abel Grand, Alfred Colomb, Annie Wood, 
Baronne de Eothschild, A. K. Williams, Captain Christy, Dr. Andre, 
Duke of Edinburgh, Etienne Levet, White Baroness, Merveille de Lyon, 
Madame Lacharme, John Hopper, La France, Paul Neyron, and General 
Jacqueminot. I will also name a dozen Teas suitable for pot culture. 
Catherine Mermet, Cheshunt Hybrid, Gloire de Dijon, Homere, Isabella 
Sprunt, Souvenir d’un Ami, Souvenir de la Malmaison, Madame Falcot, 
Niphetos, Safrano, Adam, Madame Lambard, Perle de Lyon, and of 
course everyone who grows Eoses inside nearly all will have Marechal 
Niel. _ 
Mardchal Niel is very subject to the disease called canker. No matter 
what they are planted in or however vigorous they may be, the disease 
is prevalent, and I think I may say fatal. Some years ago I remember 
asking a representative of a very respectable nursery firm what was the 
cause, and if he knew a cure. He said there was no cure—the disease 
was constitutional; the only way was to keep buying young plants 
from the nursery. Not bad advice, but it would not suit all pockets, so 
I advise everyone to keep a young stock in reserve. This can be done 
by inserting a few cuttings in the spring in 5 or 6-inch pots filled with 
a compost of friable loam, leaf mould, and sand, pressing it moderately 
firm. Insert half a dozen cuttings round the sides of the pot, making 
the soil firm around them ; then water with a fine rose to settle the 
soil, place the pots at once into a frame with a gentle bottom heat, 
where they can be kept close and constantly shaded from the sun ; 
sprinkle with a fine-rose can daily for the first eight or nine days. In three 
or four weeks the cuttings will have rooted, when they should be placed 
singly into 3-inch pots, and again in a frame with a gentle bottom heat. 
Let them remain about a fortnight, shade and water as required. When 
the cuttings are rooted they should be placed in 5-inch pots and plunged 
in a hotbed. In about three weeks transfer them into 7-inch pots. The 
plants will now be growing very quickly and require more head room 
than an ordinary frame affords. They may be removed into the green¬ 
house, stove, or vinery, placing them as near the glass as convenient. 
Nothing seems to suit them better than to be trained und^r the roof the 
same as young Vines. Be careful to keep them clear of insects, and 
avoid cold draughts. Give them some weak liquid manure about twice 
a week. Should the weather be dull, and water not necessary, sprinkle 
a little guano on the surface, and about the second week in May the 
plants must receive their final shift into 9-inch pots. Be careful that 
the drainage is well laid, and that the plants are potted this time extra 
solid. They are returned into their places, giving them all the light you 
can, staking and training them as required. 
All that now remains to be done is to keep them clean, attend to the 
supply of water and liquid manure, giving an occasional supply of clear 
soot and lime water, made as follows :—Place a shovelful of soot and half 
of one of quicklime into a tub, add about twelve gallons of clean water, 
and when settled it is ready for use. With this treatment to the end 
of the season I find myself in possession of strong healthy plants 6 to 
8 feet long, ready to be planted out-, or to flower in the pots they are in 
the following year. All the Tea-scented and Noisette may be propa¬ 
gated in this way. _ 
I believe by far the greater number of pot Eoses sent out by nursery¬ 
men are grafted in the early spring, though I much prefer them on their 
own roots ; although, if I were growing the plants for sale instead of for 
private use, I should graft in the spring. The Manetti, or whatever 
stock is used for the work, should be taken up in November or December, 
potted, and placed in a fiame. They may be either whip grafted or 
tongue grafted, and they should be worked close to the soil. The main 
secret of success is in having the stock a week or two in advance of the 
graft. After grafting they should be plunged in a bottom heat similar 
to what I have recommended for cuttings, and treated in the same way. 
It is not my intention to go into every detail of propagating the Bose, as 
I consider it is more the part of the nurseryman than of a private 
gardener. The most modern way of propagating the Eose that I know 
is to dig up the common Briar roots, cutting off the pieces with plenty 
of fibres on, potting them in 5-inch pots, leaving 2 or 3 inches out of the 
pot top ; they are grafted at once, and put into a close propagating pit 
for two or three weeks, then they are removed into 7-inch pots, taking 
care to put them low enough to cover the union, which gives them 
every appearance of plants on their own roots. The Hybrid Perpetual 
can be bought so cheap that I buy in the quantity I require, putting two 
plants of one kind in a 9-inch pot, and treating as before advised. 
The house where I grow them is 36 feet long by 15 feet wide, having 
a back wall 12 feet high, which is covered with the varieties that are 
planted out; two or three more are planted on the front side. They are 
planted inside, but small arches are provided, so that the roots can 
