May 2, 1889. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
365 
them moist, and to encourage surface roots mulch with 2 inches thick¬ 
ness of lumpy material, adding from time to time a few fresh horse 
droppings from the stables. These surface dressings induce the Vines 
to root from the “collar,” and with active feeders excellent results are 
secured. 
Late Ileuses .—The Vines in these arc making rapid progress, and 
must be tied and stopped as soon as they have made sufficient wood to 
cover the trellis with foliage. The bright day or two has had a wonder¬ 
ful effect upon the foliage, which has the healthy blue-green colour so 
characteristic of healthy active feeders luxuriating in nitrogenised 
aliment. Take every advantage of sun heat to increase the ventilation 
early in the day, but close early, which is a means of prolonging the 
health of the Vines, using fire heat no more than is .absolutely necessary. 
Make a selection of the bunches that are to remain for the crop, large 
and loose bunches being the worst for finish, and the medium-sized and 
compact the best for ripening and keeping. 
Newly Planted Vines .—When the planting is recovered from, as will 
be indicated by their growing freely, ventilate early, as the value of 
growth is dependant on its solidification, there being no remedy for a 
soft growth with a large pith ; therefore, aim at a sturdy short-jointed 
growth, encouraging the laterals in preference to mere elongation of 
the cane, letting all the wood remain that can be exposed to light; but 
supernumeraries intended for next year’s fruiting should have the laterals 
pinched at the first leaf, afterwards allowing them to make a few joints 
of growth and pinching the cane at 8 to 9 feet of growth, taking every 
possible care of the leaves on the cane, not allowing them to be inter¬ 
fered with in any way by the laterals. Keep the soil moist, but not 
very wet, closing early with plenty of atmospheric moisture. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Iresincs .—Where tender plants are bedded out extensively, Iresines 
Herbsti and Lindeni are rightly considered indispensable, being useful 
alike for associating with Violas, Pelargoniums, and other flowers, 
which afford a strong contrast, for massing in the centre of beds, for 
the outer bands, and for ribbon borders. Soft cuttings strike root in a 
brisk heat in a few days, and hundreds may be propagated before the 
second week in June, this being quite early enough to plant them in 
most localities. The tops of cuttings already struck may be taken off 
and rooted, and these in their turn may also be similarly treated. 
Iresines transplant readily from boxes, and ought not to be placed in 
cold frames before the middle of May, and must be carefully watered 
when first turned out of heat. Those late struck to be kept in heat 
till a short time before they are wanted. 
Amarantliuses . — Among these are several with very ornamental 
foliage, but all are delicate, and are of little service on heavy soils and 
in cold localities. Amaranthus melancholicus ruber is of nearly the 
same colour as Iresine Herbsti, and may be employed as a substitute 
for it. If the seed is sown in a pan and placed in heat it will germinate 
quickly, and the seedlings being placed singly into thumb pots and 
placed in heat they will be quite strong by the end of May, and can be 
hardened a week or ten days prior to planting. Amaranthus nobilis, 
pyramidalis, salicifolius, and tricolor attain a height of from 2 feet to 
8 feet, and these are effective among subtropical plants or in mixed 
beds. They can be as quickly raised from seed as the dwarf red variety, 
and ought to be transferred from the small sizes into 6-inch pots prior 
to finally planting out, as they are otherwise liable to become stunted. 
Alternantheras .—It is not advisable to prepare extra strong plants 
of these, as although effective at first, presenting a thin appearance 
when the large leaves drop, as they invariably do a short time after 
they are put out. Quite small pieces are the best, as these may be put out 
thickly and neatly in carpet beds, and look well all the season, even if 
they do not grow. The varieties paronychioides, magnifica, major, and 
major aurea, amoena spectabilis, and versicolor grandis are all beautiful 
and well adapted for carpet bedding. Thousands of plants can be rooted 
in a few days any time during May, every small shoot being quickly 
converted into a plant. A partially exhausted hotbed, or say a pit or 
frame just cleared of Potatoes, are suitable for raising large quantities 
of Alternantheras, the beds being faced with a little fine sandy soil 
raised near the glass, the cuttings without any trimming being dibbled 
in about 2 inches apart each way, and duly watered. They require 
to be quite close and shaded from bright sunshine till struck, after 
which they should receive more air and all the light possible. Being 
duly hardened, they can be transplanted direct to the beds. Smaller 
quantities may be struck in boxes in any forcing house, and, if need be, 
the tops taken out and also rooted. 
Perillas .—The varieties nankinensis and laciniatus atro-purpureus 
are largely used as summer bedding plants: and it is not yet too late to 
sow the seed. Sow in pans, cover lightly, place in gentle heat, and 
either pot off or prick out the seedlings in boxes, from which they may 
be transplanted to the flower garden. 
Beet .—The crimson-leaved varieties of the common garden Beet are 
very effective in the flower garden, and the Chilian or Brazilian Beet, 
which grow taller and have richly coloured stalks, are also showy. The 
first-named, when employed in ribbon borders, is sometimes sown where 
the plants are to grow, being suitable for a second or third line. The 
seedlings are also transplanted readily from boxes, and if the seed is sown 
at once in gentle heat, or even in a cool house or frame, strong plants 
will be available at bedding-out time. Dell’s Crimson, or one of its 
synonyms, is the best for bedding-out purposes. The Chilian looks 
well in groups in mixed borders, and the seed may be sown where the 
plants are to grow, or they can be raised under glass. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Cutting Asparagus. —This favourite vegetable is now ready in the 
open. We do not approve of cutting from roots until they are three 
years old. After that all that appears is cut. We have known the first 
heads allowed to grow under the impression that the roots were being- 
strengthened, but we have found many of the crowns then remain dor¬ 
mant which would have pushed if the first growths were removed. 
Roots in good condition will bear cutting from for a month at least. 
We cut when heads can be secured 8 or 10 inches long. 
Autumn-sown Onions. — Those transplanted some time ago are 
now growing freely, and a little guano will be sprinkled over them now 
and then in showery weather. Those in the seed rows are being gradu¬ 
ally thinned for use, to a distance of 6 or 8 inches apart, and these 
often bulb sooner than those transplanted. They, too, will receive a 
dressing or two of guano, and the Dutch hoe will be run lightly 
between them. Stirring the soil very deeply makes it too loose for 
bulbing, the finest Onions being produced in firm soil. 
Leeks. —Plants raised early in March are now 8 inches high and 
ready for planting 10 inches apart, in well manured trenches. We trans¬ 
plant them with soil adhering to the roots and sink them well into the 
ground. Should the weather be so cold as to check them a covering will be 
thrown over each trench nightly. One or two hundred early plants wilt 
be ample for show purposes. The main winter crop of Leeks must not 
be planted for some time, and if seed is sown at the present time the 
plants which follow will be found suitable for the kitchen in due 
season. 
Kidney Beans. —As we have pointed out before, if dwarf Beans 
and runner Beans are sown on the same day, the former will furnish 
pods from three to four weeks earlier than the latter, and it is very 
desirable to sow both to secure a succession, but owing to their very tender 
character neither can be sown in any quantity in April, but in May 
they may be sown freely. Very few prefer the dwarfs when the runners 
are in. When these are ready and closely picked the plants continue- 
bearing for a long time. We sow in trenches now as the plants dislike 
being starved at the roots, and this is apt to occur in very dry weather 
when growing on the level or earthed up above it. 
Potatoes. —Frame Potatoes of the Ashleaf type were ready and 
very acceptable at Easter. Those remaining may be fully exposed 
during the day, but the lights should be kept on them at night and 
during heavy rains. The early outdoor crops show well in the rows, 
and should frost occur it would be most disastrous to them if not pro¬ 
tected. We earth up the plants as fast as they come through the 
ground. The soil is drawn over the young tops and close to the stems, 
as although the leaves may be blemished, if the stems can be kept sound 
little or no harm may follow. In some gardens the whole of the late 
crops cannot be planted until Broccolis are removed, but efforts should 
be made to finish planting at once. 
Mushrooms. — These are most valued with us throughout the 
winter, as vegetables in variety are not over-plentiful then, and the 
Mushrooms tide over some deficiencies. We are never satisfied with 
our winter beds unless we secure two crops from them. The latter is 
secured, as a rule, by treading down the surface of the old bed, putting 
a thin layer of sand, beating it well down with a spade, watering 
thoroughly: with water heated to 95°, and covering with a coating of 
hay. In a fortnight after this Mushrooms appear, and the second crop 
sometimes exceeds the first in quantity. 
Salsafy and Scorzonera. —These useful winter roots should be 
grown in all gardens. The Salsafy is the more useful, but both are 
apt to flower in the autumn, and be useless if sown too early. We sow 
in May thinly in drills 1 foot or 15 inches apart, and inches deep. 
The roots are not injured by grubs, but mice are fond of the seed, and 
their depredations must be prevented. 
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'■•v' ■ 
BEE-KEEPER 
MARKET FOR HONEY. 
Notwithstanding all that has been said and advised upon this; 
important part of bee-keeping to those who keep bees for profit, 
neither advice nor action has been taken by those whom it concerns 
most, and probably never will until the foreigner has completely 
glutted our markets, and given the consuming public a cheap, 
although by no means a superior article. People who are accus¬ 
tomed to eating good honey will seek it and use no other, and will 
not be deceived by inferior samples, however gaudy the packages 
may be. Honey companies, as we predicted, have proved failures. 
The following, quoted from “ Gleanings,” explains my reason 
for drawing the attention of bee-keepers to the foregoing. It is 
