380 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 9,1889k 
As soon as the Marfichal Niels on the walls show buds on the shoots he 
pinches them back, leaving perhaps a quarter of an inch of new wood, 
and from this, as a rule, two shoots spring bearing flowers. The early 
show of blooms is thus done away with, and at a later date when there 
are no Marechal Niels elsewhere, the owner has the great pleasure of 
gathering an abundance. La France, which has Tea blood, is similarly 
treated. I will now turn to what I consider the greatest proof of Mr. 
Bevan’s capacity as a gardener. Leading from the garden to the house 
is a passage about GO feet long by 16 wide, on each side very high 
buildings, and at the end the same, leaving the entrance which faces 
south-east to supply most of the air and light. Nine years ago a friend 
of the owner’s said, “ You say you can grow Boses anywhere, but you 
could not grow them up this dark smoky passage.” Mr. Bevan resolved 
to try, so applied to Mr. B. Cant for six of his strongest Marshal Niels 
on Briar stocks, and planted them along the centre of the passage. He 
followed out his practice of pinching all shoots back as soon as they 
formed buds, thus giving them time to gain strength and root hold, and 
the first year did not allow them to flower at all. The same practice 
has been continued every year, and they are now splendid specimens, 
standing 5J feet high (before breaking), and about 3 5 feet through. I 
send you a photograph of them taken three years after planting, and I 
think you will agree that they are a credit to any amateur or pro¬ 
fessional. They are very nearly all the same size and height. I must 
point out that this garden is situated in the centre of a smoky, very 
foggy, low-lying town very subject to damp frosts. A conservatory, 
with some grand Roses in pots, a Mulberry tree, probably 100 years old, 
but still fruitful, though decrepit, and other features of this interesting 
garden must be passed by, for I fear the Editor will have his patience 
exhausted if I trespass further.—H. S. Easty. 
[We do agree most cordially that the plants in the photograph 
represent exceptionally good culture under the circumstances.] 
ARRANGEMENT OF THE GARDEN OF HARDY FRUITS- 
[A first prize paper by Mr. S. Summers, R.H.9. Gardens, Chiswick ] 
In arranging a fruit garden to produce a continuous supply of hardy 
fruits without the aid of glass there are several points to be considered. 
First, the size, aspect, and position of the garden, and secondly, the 
soil that has to be dealt with, it being much easier to make a suitable 
arrangement if the soil is favourable to the growth of fruit trees ; and 
thirdly, climate. To be brief, we will assume that the conditions as to 
climate are generally favourable. It is well known that most kinds of 
hardy fruits do fairly well in this part of the country, and therefore a 
cultivator in the district has not so many difficulties to contend with as 
those have who are resident in the north of England. With regard to 
the size and position of the garden, it may be taken for granted that 
the garden is from one to two acres in extent, and, as is usually the 
case, surrounded by walls. It is a great advantage to have the command 
of walls, as these give us many opportunities to produce the choicer 
kinds of fruits, such as Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and Cherries, that 
could not well be grown in gardens not so enclosed. 
It will be advisable to first give a list of the fruit trees that can be 
grown without the aid of glass, and then proceed to arrange them after¬ 
wards in the most suitable manner. To take them in the order of ripening, 
or as nearly so as possible, appears advisable, and in doing so the small 
fruits will come first under notice. The following can all be grown 
with due care in the open—namely, Cherries, Strawberries, Raspberries, 
Gooseberries, Currants (Red, White, and Black), Peaches, Nectarines, 
Apricots, Plums, Pears, Apples, Figs, and Grapes, and to these may be 
added Quinces, Medlars, and Mulberries, which, however, are not much 
grown compared with other fruits enumerated. This gives fourteen 
different or distinct kinds of fruit. The question now is, how best to 
arrange them to obtain a continuous supply over as long a period as 
possible. Supposing the garden to extend over an area of 2 acres, to be 
square and enclosed with walls, we shall have two walls, each with 
north, south, west, and east aspects, which will be a great help in the 
production of fruit. By the aid of the walls the season may be con¬ 
siderably prolonged, as the different aspects will either bring forward 
or else retard the fruit, according to the position the trees occupy. 
Thus Plums may be planted on an east wall, also on a west—this, of 
course, does not affect so much as north and south would do—-but the 
south walls must be kept for the more tender fruits, such as Peaches, 
Nectarines, Figs, and Grapes. The Apple does very well without the 
aid of walls, hence it is not necessary to give any part of them to it. 
But as it is longer in season than any other fruit, it is necessary to 
devote more space to it, so both early and late keeping varieties may 
be grown to maintain the supply from August to the following May 
or June. The Pear must have a considerable space devoted to it 
also, as, like the Apple, it is in season a long time. For this reason a 
wall may be recommended for the best of the late Pears. Moreover, 
many of them fail to come to perfection if grown as bush or pyramid 
trees in the open. The Cherry can be produced during a long period if 
the trees are planted in different positions. In fact, we have seen 
some very fine dessert Cherries kept on a north wall until September, 
It is well known that Morellos keep a long time, but they are seldom 
used for dessert, their chief value being for culinary purposes. 
Having given a brief outline of the arrangement and the fruits to be 
grown, we now proceed to take the different small fruits in the order 
of ripening, and give a list of the best varieties to plant. 
Cherries. —These are the first fruits to ripen, and the year therefore 
will commence in June. To obtain early Cherries the tree or trees 
must be planted against a south wall. It is not necessary to have more 
trees on this wall than are sufficient to produce enough fruit to have a 
supply until the fruit produced by trees on the west wall is ripe. 
The best variety for early use is the May Duke, which should be 
planted both on the south and west walls. To form a succession the 
following varieties should be planted :—Early Rivers, Early Lyons,. 
Early Black Bigarreau, Black Tartarian, and White Bigarreau. For 
later supplies select Late Black Bigarreau, Bigarreau Napoleon, and 
Morello, the latter to be planted against the north wall. Late dessert 
Cherries may also be planted on the north wall, to retard the ripening 
of the fruit. 
Strawberries. —It is seldom that we have ripe Strawberries until 
the middle or end of June, and the season can be prolonged until August 
by planting the later varieties on a north border. The earlier varieties 
should have a good position in a warm part of the garden, say a border 
facing south. The best early variety is King of the Earlies, which is 
very good, and ready several days before any other I know ; Noble 
will succeed it, and Black Prince and the following varieties will keep- 
up the supply :—Keen’s Seedling, Yicomtesse Hericart de Thury, Pre¬ 
sident, Sir J. Paxton, Sir C. Napier, British Queen, Dr. Hogg, and James 
Yeitch ; Waterloo, Eleanor, and Elton Pine, the last three being the 
latest. Elton Pine should be planted on the north border already re¬ 
ferred to. Other varieties may be planted, but it will be well to bear in 
mind that Strawberries differ materially in their adaptability to the 
various soils and situations, and that where one will succeed another 
may fail. 
Raspberries. —These will not require so much space as Straw¬ 
berries, as they are not used largely excepting in the kitchen. A few 
rows across the quarter will be sufficient. Both red and yellow varieties 
should be planted, but the largestproport-ion should be red. The best 
of the red varieties are Baumforth’s Seedling, Falstaff. Lord Beacons- 
field, Prolific, and the new Superlative is said to be one of the best, the 
fruit being very large, and it continues bearing a long time. The best 
yellow variety is Yellow Antwerp ; the fruits of this are very good for 
dessert. 
Gooseberries. —The fruit being used for both dessert and cooking, 
it will be necessary to give more space to these than to Raspberries. They 
should indeed have a rather large quarter devoted to them. They are 
generally grown as bushes, and for culinary purposes they are ready in 
June, and the ripe fruit may be kept on the bushes as late as September 
or October by covering the bushes with netting to prevent the birds- 
taking the crop. The varieties are so numerous that it is almost im¬ 
possible to give a list of the best sorts, but for keeping late Reel 
Warrington is the best. Another very finely flavoured variety is 
Rosebery. The fruits are small, with green, smooth skin. A larger 
variety worth growing is Monarch, and for very early ripe fruits the 
best is Golden Drop. It ripens at the end of July, and it is not 
required earlier, as there will be plenty of Strawberries previous to that 
period. 
Currants. —Currants are abundant bearers, so it will not be 
necessary to have a large number of trees, and they can be grown 
without taking up much space. A single bush dotted here and there 
will give a good supply of fruit, and the space, between the Apple and 
Pear trees can be utilised for them,_We take the three kinds under 
this heading. The Black can be planted in a border with a north 
aspect, or anywhere where there is a spare piece of ground. Some 
Red and White varieties should be planted on the north wall for late 
supplies during September and October, as a dish of Currants is useful 
when the other small fruits are scarce. The best Red varieties are- 
Cherry, Mallow-leaved, Houghton Castle, Victoria, Knight’s Large 
Red, and Early Red. The most useful White varieties are White Dutch, 
very sweet and good for dessert, and Wilmot’s Large White. The 
following Black sorts are the best—Black Dutch, Lee’s Black, and Old 
Black. 
Apricots. —Having briefly touched on the small fruits, we now 
