392 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 16,183P. 
muriate, which is superior in mauurial value to carbonate, sulphate, 
and even nitrate ; indeed nitrates appear to have very little value 
as manure on soils which naturally contain salts of nitric acid, 
as, by reason of the components, in fruit borders, which are 
constantly forming nitrates, nitrates of potash and soda, though 
increasing the formation of gluten and albumen, do not increase the 
yield of fruit trees. Even manure from farmyards, and liquid 
manure from tanks receiving the drainings of stables, cow byres, 
or sewage do not tend to increase the fertility of fruit trees, except¬ 
ing in the case of weakly trees, and an excessive quantity induces 
sterility—the formation of wood rather than fruit buds. This 
is in consequence of the organic matter, as I take it, forming 
nitrates—namely, of potash and soda in the soil; but as the ammonia 
compounds are decomposed by quicklime their effect is neutralised, 
though there is no very marked effect concurrently with its 
application. 
For fruit trees that are sufficiently vigorous 3 lbs. of super¬ 
phosphate per rod is a full quantity to apply at once, which should 
always be when growth is taking place, or but little in advance 
of growth ; and as it may be given with equal advantage to tree3 
under dwarf culture 1 i oz. per square yard may be disposed about 
the trees as far as the roots extend, distributing evenly and merely 
raking or pointing it in. The quantity of muriate of potash to apply 
may be one-third that of the superphosphate or 1 lb. per rod, about 
half ounce per square yard, employing it at the same time and in 
the same manner as the superphosphate. Moist weather is best, 
but for trees under glas3 the waterings will always occasion a fitting 
medium. As manures are obviously of no good without roots to 
imbibe them recourse must be had to light mulchings to insur e 
uniform moisture, encourage the production of roots and keep them 
near the surface. 
As for the excess of acid likely to result from the continued 
use of superphosphate there is not much danger, as it clearly 
must become neutralised by the lime which enters largely as 
an ingredient in the formation of fruit tree borders ; but it 
may prove hurtful when the superphosphate is used excessively, 
say 6 cwt. per acre, 4 to 5 lbs. per rod, and the soil is not of a 
calcareous nature, but that is an excessive quantity even for root 
crops, for fruit trees nearly half too much. This is matter for 
experiment, and it is always wise to err on the safe side in dealing 
with chemical manures. — G-. Abbey. 
ROUGH WALLS FOR ALPINES. 
Only those who have had experience in this matter can form 
an adequate idea of the number of plants which can be thus 
successfully grown, or of the interest attaching thereto. By its 
adoption charming bits of scenery can be produced in parts of the 
garden which might otherwise be devoid of floral treasures. It is 
one of the most effectual ways of growing Alpines I have ever 
tried, and by selecting suitable plants in the first place, coupled 
with perseverance, rude walls may be made picturesque and 
beautiful beyond comparison. Many gardens may possess a really 
interesting collection of Alpines if only a little forethought -were 
exercised. It offers the greatest facilities, however, in hilly districts, 
where the garden itself assumes somewhat of the nature of its 
surroundings, and where rude walls of varying heights are needful 
to a certain extent to keep in position any slight elevations of soil 
which invariably occur in laying out such places. 
i\l In one part of my experience several hundred feet of these 
rough walls were in existence, and to a great extent employed 
for the purpose above indicated. The garden itself presented 
special advantages for this style of gardening, an inclination of 
nearly 90 feet existing between the top and bottom. This garden 
was originally laid out with much taste by one of the leading land¬ 
scape gardeners of the present century. Slopes and naturally 
formed banks abounded, while to render the place of easy access 
numerous flights of steps and many circuitous walks were necessary. 
To keep the soil composing these latter in position these walls 
became almost a necessity, and while performing all the functions 
required of them, were by a little forethought rendered attractive 
and interesting, their construction depending entirely upon their 
position and the weight of soil they had to support. In some cases 
these walls traversed the shady parts of the wood, in others they 
were fully exposed, a fact enabling us to embrace a much greater 
variety of plants than would otherwise have been the case. 
Many of the walls in question, consequent upon the work they 
had to perform, were built of brick in the usual way, but with the 
mortar, which included but a small proportion of lime, a quantity 
of old potting soil was mixed. In height these walls varied from 
2 to 4 feet, that is on the accessible side, for in many instances a- 
bank of soil, principally clay, reached the summit of the wall on 
the other. Where this was so, however, the face of the wall wa& 
made with unusually large joints, the interior and back being 
roughly constructed purposely. Sometimes these walls had both 
faces exposed, in which case they were dealt with accordingly ; and 
others again were constructed of clinkered burrs, which make 
capital walls for the purpose, and the many crevices which need not 
be filled except with soil to form receptacles for numbers of 
plants afterwards. Not only was provision made for clothing the 
surface as far as possible, but the summit itself was utilised also. 
These Alpine walls came in for their share of watering during hot 
weather as regularly as the plants in pots, except perhaps in those 
instances where it was almost impossible for them to become dry 
by reason of a huge bank of soil behind. Where the summit of 
the wall was provided with pockets the middle of the wall was 
hollow, afterwards filled with old potting soil. This was an 
extremely valuable arrangement, as many deeply rooting plants 
throve in a surprising manner, being provided with a good depth 
of soil. 
I will give the names of some of those plants which were 
evidently at home in such a position, for it may be remarked that 
though we had a large per-centage of successes, we also had to con¬ 
tend with many failures. For the number of species suitable to 
this purpose the genus Saxifraga is a long way ahead of all others ; 
indeed, it is difficult to name any of the encrusted section which do 
not thrive. The forms of longifolia, pyramidalis, Hosti elatior; 
the forms of aizoon, which soon form good tufts, also cristata, 
pectinata, and many others, make a pleasing show when in flower. 
I also ventured to try juniperina, Burseriana, calyciflorus, areti- 
oides, vandeli, caesia, and valdensis, and I rooted cuttings annually 
of these, for I soon discovered that small pieces took more readily 
than larger pieces. S. squarrosa and Rudolphiana are almost too 
diminutive to furnish cuttings from, still even these were attempted, 
but not with such good results as by pot culture, while S. coch- 
learis and lantoscana are two of the best I had almost overlooked. 
Of some of the mossy section tried were S. Maweana and S. gibral- 
tarica, but their progress was not good ; while S. muscoides and 
the variety atro-purpurea did remarkably well. All the forms of 
S. oppositifolia did splendidly, and formed charming tufts quickly, 
and among miscellaneous species and forms may be mentioned 
S. azoides, and the variety autumnalis, S. bryoides, and S. granulata 
fl.-pl., which grew fairly and flowered, but rquch dwarfer than is 
usual for it. Many more, no doubt, might be added to this list. 
Among Sedums, acre aureum, asiaticum, Nevi, corsicum, lydium, 
Fosterianum, grandifolium were good, while the best of all were 
Sieboldi and its variegated form. All Sempervivums do well, 
though they are not very effective in many cases. 
Coming to other plants the Aubrietias must be first, for we have 
nothing to compare with their fine tufts when in flower, and their 
success on the nearly perpendicular face of a wall quite equalled 
that of border culture, which is saying a good deal ; then we have 
Linarias alpina, pilosa, and hepaticasfolia (very pleasing), Erinuses 
alpinus, albus, and hispanicus (these are pretty in flower), Cheirani- 
thus alpinus, Crucianella stylosa coccinea, Iberises of sorts, and 
Papaver nudicaule. Campanula pumila and alba, and many others, 
such as garganica, isophylla, carpatica, turbinata, pulla, rotundifolia, 
and alba, are also quite happy. Muhlenbeckia complexa, Houstonia 
cserulea, Hutchinsia alpina, Genista pilosa, Lotus corniculatus fl.-pl., 
Draba azoides, and Corydalis capnoides can all be employed. The 
dwarf Columbines, Silene acaulis, and many more which do not 
readily occur to me now are useful. All the foregoing I have 
tried upon the face of the wall, while for the top pockets the 
following are well adapted :—Helianthemums, Lithospermums, 
Dianthuses, Iberises, Genistas saxatilis, tinctoria fl.-pl., and tri- 
quetra ; Arenarias, which rambled away, Zauschneria californica, 
Golden Thyme, and many others. 
I always preferred early autumn for planting. Another way of 
furnishing walls of this character is to mix the seeds of those 
plants you require with a little soil, make the latter moist, and 
press it lightly into pieces the size of walnuts, and, making a hole 
in the joints, insert these here and there, repeating the operation 
with as many sorts as you require. If large walls are being fur¬ 
nished thus Antirrhinums, Wallflowers, and Lunaria biennis may be 
employed. They all do well. It is possible that the list of plants 
here given may be of service to some readers who may desire to try 
this way of growing plants, or others who, like Mr. Leonard, may 
