May 16 , 1839. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
393 
though sometimes roughly knotted, is never lost. The blending of 
colours is a task that is not learned in a day, nor is it a rule of thumb. 
A good example teaches valuable lessons, but thought and discrimina¬ 
tion must play their part, for in hardly any instance does the existing 
groundwork require precisely the same treatment. Asked with what 
he mixed his colours, the painter Opie replied, “ Brains, sir, brains.” 
' ■ Some of the slopes at Bel voir are so steep that the soil has had to be 
banked up. One may clamber up boulders for a hundred feet, for the 
visitor cannot forbear a nearer inspection of the treasures established 
•so_ happily among them. Apart from Saxifrages, Arabises, Aubrietias, 
Wallflowers, Violets, early Heaths, and Narcissi, there are many things 
■of special interest. Oxlips are marvellous in their variety and beauty. 
As commonly seen they bear no comparison with Mr. Ingram’s splendid 
Strain, which throw up huge trusses of bloom in broad masses. Their 
great point of superiority over other members of their family is that the 
flowers are borne high above the leaves, while in Primroses they are 
•half buried by the foliage. Oxalis acetosella rosea, pale rose with 
white centre, and most free in bloom, is charming. Tiarellas are spread¬ 
ing their fleecy masses of bloom. Saxifraga muscoides atropurpurea, with 
its sparkling little blossoms in fine masses, is lovely, and there are beautiful 
cushions of the grey carpetter, Thymus lanuginosus, and the exquisite 
Aubrietia Campbelli variegata. Valeriana Phu aurea, with its rich 
.yellow foliage, almost equal to Golden Feather, is used with effect for 
bordering. Anemone ranunculoides, dwarf bright yellow ; Pulmonaria 
azurea, marbled leaves and dark blue flowers : Sedum acre aureum, 
with its tiny spikes of lemon—these, and numerous other beautiful 
flowers, could be spoken of at length were the columns of the Journal more 
expansive, and the powers that guide it complaisant enough to allow 
each contributor to write exhaustively. But perhaps enough has been 
-said to give some idea of what spring gardening in its higher phases is. 
Those who visit Belvoir and have the privilege of Mr. Ingram's personal 
guidance, which cannot be extended to all, so numerous are the calls 
upon him, will find in him what, after seeing or reading of his work, 
they would have looked for, a man of thought and culture, well read and 
well travelled, a true lover of Nature, and with the instinctive power of 
utilising her gifts to the best advantage for the happiness and delight 
of man.- IV. P. Weight. 
HOW TO OBTAIN NATURAL SEAKALE. 
Seakale is a vegetable known to and esteemed by almost every¬ 
one. It may be had in use from November till the middle of May 
•the following year, and later in some seasons. Many persons do 
mot admit Seakale into their gardens on account of the expense 
attending the forcing of it. I will endeavour to explain the culti¬ 
vation and production of what is termed natural Kale. Nothing 
beyond sun heat is necessary for bringing to maturity this useful 
vegetable in May, at which time a supply is most useful, and a 
distinct change to the ordinary vegetables then in season. 
Making and storing the sets is the first item, and a somewhat 
important one. These should be taken in the autumn when lifting 
crowns which are intended for forcing in frames, pots, Mushroom 
houses, or other suitable places. The cleanest and straightest 
roots should be secured from the trimmings of the above crowns ; 
these should be between the size of a tobacco pipe stem and the 
little finger, the latter being plenty large enough. The sets should 
be about 5 inches in length, cut flat at the top and slanting at the 
base, in order to determine the top of the set ; this being done tie 
the sets in bundles of fifty, and bury them in ashe3, keeping the 
•crown ends uppermost. 
The soil should be well enriched with good stable manure, 
though on light loams guano, or some other chemical, may witb 
advantage be administered during showery weather in the growing 
season. The better the attention the Kale receives during the 
summer the better will be the result. If very dry weather sets 
in after planting, the roots should be well watered about once 
a week. I have often seen crowns recommended for planting, but 
do not approve of them, and the sets referred to are preferable. 
The ground being prepared the sets should be taken out of their 
resting place and planted in rows from 20 to 22 inches apart ; 
15 inches will be ample room in the rows. The soil must be made 
secure to the sets the whole length. Much injury is often done 
to them by leaving the soil loose, especially in dry hot weather. 
With careful attention to watering and hoeing, these will produce 
fine crowns by September. I should have said when planting, 
which should be about the middle of April, two or three of the 
_young sprouts should be left until the plants are thoroughly 
established, then all but the strongest on each set should be 
removed ; and this must be done carefully, as the plants are easily 
•pulled out of the ground. 
About the middle or end of October, beginning at the outside, 
the first row should be taken up, leaving the next two rows, then 
removing another, and leaving two again, and so on. The roots 
may remain until wanted for forcing if it is wished by the culti¬ 
vator, but I prefer those taken up in the autumn. However, 
if the rows are cleared out by the first week in March that will be 
early enough for earthing up the crowns which remain. This is 
simple enough. A trench about 2 feet 6 inches wide must be lined 
fig. 64.— “natural” seakale. 
and taken out of the spaces from which the rows were removed 
and the soil placed on the remaining crowns, making beds resembling 
Asparagus beds. The operator must dig out enough soil for covering 
