426 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 23, 1889. 
WORK/o^ THE WEEK,j 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Mulching Strawberries. —If not already done a mulching of 
Strawy manure should be given forthwith. Already the earliest have 
set the best portion of their crops, and if the mulching is any longer 
delayed it will not be possible to do it cleanly, and in addition much 
moisture will be evaporated from the soil. A liberal surface of strawy 
manure applied early will usually be washed sufficiently to support and 
keep the ripe fruit clean. Should the manure be too far advanced in 
decay for the fruit to rest on, then it ought to be either surfaced with 
clean strawy litter, or some other means must be adopted for keeping 
the fruit clean. Hay, besides being full of seeds, many of which may 
take root in the ground, is also apt to become musty, and the latter 
remark also applies to dried short grass from the mowing machine. 
Strawberries are very absorbent, and the flavour is soon affected by 
contact with any tainted material. For this reason also spent tan is 
objected to as a mulch, although this frequently preserves the fruit 
from slugs and other insect pests. Fresh straw is expensive, but when 
cut into short lengths and arranged round the plants there is no doubt 
about its superiority to all other perishable clean mulching. 
Strawberry Supports. —Where large breadths of Strawberries are 
grown the roughest methods of keeping the fruit clean have usually to 
be resorted to, but the owners of or those in charge of small gardens 
may, with advantage, take more trouble in preserving the fruit. Any¬ 
thing that will prop up the bunches clear of the ground will not only 
keep the fruit cleaner, always supposing a mulching to prevent splash¬ 
ing and loss of moisture is applied, and in addition insure more thorough 
ripening in the worst of seasons. Earthenware collars as supplied from 
some of the leading potteries answer well, and so also do the wire 
crinolines sometimes advertised in this Journal. The latter are pre¬ 
ferable, and the best substitutes for these are hoops made from strong 
fencing wire, many coils of which are often seen lying without use in 
some places. These should be cut into suitable lengths and made into 
half circles with two ends, nearly or quite a foot in length, turned down 
for thrusting into the ground. When these are fixed two to each plant, 
they ought to be near enough to take the weight of the whole of the 
fruit and support it 4 inches clear of the ground. Those who can devote 
their time to it will find propping up the clusters of fruit with short 
many-forked Birch or Hazel spray serves to preserve and forward the 
fruit admirably. Old birch brooms will yield a considerable number of 
these forked supports, and many more might be trimmed out of 
faggot wood. The opportunity might also be taken of thinning out the 
fruit, leaving the earliest formed and largest only, that is to say, if 
quality and size of fruit is preferred to quantity. 
Gooseberries. —These have come on rapidly, but the most forward 
is Whinham’s Industry. This free-growing and prolific variety has fruit 
already large enough for use. Market growers especially ought to make 
a note of this, as it is only the earliest and comparatively large green 
fruit that letches the most remunerative prices. In any case it is unwise 
to delay picking till the fruit is nearly fully grown. When so plenti¬ 
ful as they are this season it is advisable to commence lightening the 
crops when the fruit is about half grown, as they are fully appreciated 
when at that size. Green fruit also makes by far the best preserve or 
jam, as with these there are no tough hairy skins to contend with, while 
the colour and flavour is much the same. Not till the fruit is nearly or 
quite full grown should it be gathered for preserving, but if left on the 
trees till the colour is changing the time will be past for making it into 
the best jam. 
Caterpillars. —As yet no signs of these have been detected on the 
Gooseberry and Currant bushes, but they have been found on Pear 
trees. The trusses of the Jargonelle and a few other varieties have been 
extra fine, and clusters of fruit are well set. It is in the midst of these 
where the caterpillars are principally to be found, and unless caught 
and destroyed quickly not a sound fruit will be lefc. It is advisable to 
freely thin out clusters of Pears, and later on of choice Apples too, re¬ 
moving at the same time dead blossoms and caterpillars rolled up in 
them. The points of the leading shoots ought to be watched closely, 
as caterpillars frequently have a weakness for these. Pick off any 
curled leaves with anything enclosed in them and destroy a 3 fast as they 
form, and by this means, no other answering so well, save the tree from 
being disfigured and the crop from destruction. Neglect this precaution, 
and in all probability the work of one whole season will be undone. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Early Forced Vines .—Where the Grapes are ripe and 
fermenting material was applied to the borders part of it can now be 
lemoved, leaving sufficient for a mulch but not a heavy nor very 
close one, and if the roots are active in the lower part a little fresh 
material may be placed on the surface to protect them from the atmo¬ 
sphere ; besides, it gives the border a neat appearance. Fire heat will 
only be necessary to keep the temperature at about 60° at night, 
ventilating freely by day. Black Hamburghs will need a slight shade to 
prevent their losing colour. A moderate amount of air moisture is 
necessary for the benefit of the foliage, and it will not prejudice the 
Grapes if it is not allowed to become stagnant. Encourage lateral 
growth, it tends to maintain the activity of the roots and to prevent 
premature ripening of the foliage, which must be kept clean and 
healthy as long as possible, or the Vines will start into growth again, 
when they should be pruned and allowed a few weeks of rest. 
Early Muscats .—Vines started in December are now ripening, and 
must have sufficient water at the roots. Apply liquid manure if the 
crop be heavy and the Vines not luxuriant. Examine the inside borders 
every week, and if water be necessary give it liberally and warm (90°). 
Muscats need a temperature all through 5° warmer than Black Ham¬ 
burghs, especially when ripening, if they are to have the amber colour 
so characteristic of thorough ripeness. In order to ensure perfect 
finish the house must have a circulation constantly of rather dry warm 
air, especially at night, so as to prevent the deposition of moisture on 
the berries, increasing the air early for a similar reason. If there is 
likely to be any danger of damp arising from the border to the prejudice 
of the berries, mulch it after watering with a couple of inches of short 
rather dry manure, and cover this with about 3 inches thickness of 
clean dry straw, preferably chopped coarsely. 
Vines Started Early in the Year. —Sweetwater, White Frontignan, 
Black Hamburghs, &c., are ripening their crops, and though a rather dry 
atmosphere is desirable it is best secured by free ventilation, having a 
little at the top of the house constantly, as nothing contributes more to 
good finish than a circulation of rvarm air after the Grapes commence 
colouring. The inside borders must have a thorough watering, and a 
mulch of half-decayed manure will secure moisture sufficient for the 
perfection of the crop ; yet even when the fruit is ripe Vines must not 
suffer by lack of water at the roots. The temperature should be 70° at 
night, 5° less on cold nights, admitting air at 75°, and increasing the 
heat to 85° or 90° with sun and full ventilation, reducing the ventilation 
at 80°, closing all but a small space at the top of the house. 
Maintain good atmospheric moisture by damping the house two or three 
times a day, keeping the evaporation troughs, if any, replenished with 
liquid manure until the Grapes are well advanced in colouring, when a 
drier condition of the atmosphere will be advisable ; but moisture must 
not be entirely withdrawn, or the foliage will suffer and premature 
ripening of the wood be induced. 
Succession Houses .—Attend to thinning early and follow it up, morn¬ 
ing and evening being the best time alike for the Grapes and the 
operator. Let the laterals extend as far as the space permits, not 
crowding the foliage unduly, fhe principal leaves having full exposure 
to light and air, especially those that feed the buds at their base for 
affording next year’s supply of fruit. Stop or remove all growths not 
required, not allowing any to be made that must be afterwards re¬ 
moved in quantity, as it tends to a check. Of moisture in the border 
let there be no lack, and to prevent its escape and to encourage surface 
roots mulch with some rather lumpy manure, and not so thick as to 
exclude air, 2 or 3 inches thickness being quite ample. Close early as 
soon as there is a decline in the solar heat or from that source, and in¬ 
crease it to 90° or 95° with a plentiful supply of atmospheric moisture, 
occasioned by damping at closing time, and before night admit a little 
air at the top of the house, damping with liquid manure, leaving the 
ventilation on all night, and increasing it by the time the sun acts 
powerfully on the house. The temperature shoiild fall to between 
60° and 65° at night. 
Late Houses .—Forward these as speedily as possible except late 
houses of Black Hamburghs. It will suffice if they have the fruit set 
so as to admit of thinning during the first fortnight of June, but thick- 
skinned varieties should have a night temperature of 65° and 70° to 75° 
by day artificially, advancing to and keeping at 80° to 85° or 90° 
through the day. When Vines are in flower, as many now are, allow a 
night temperature of 70° and 80° by day, with a free circulation of air, 
but not a drying current, a genial condition of the atmosphere being 
maintained by damping available surfaces, and brushing the shy setters 
with a camel's-hair brush to free the stigmas of the glutinous matter 
and assist the dispersion of the pollen, and where it is deficient taking 
it from those that afford it abundantly to make good the defect. 
Remove duplicate shoots and duplicate bunches unflinchingly, over¬ 
crowding and overcropping being the greatest evils in fruit culture, 
reserving the best shaped and most compact bunches. 
Pines. —Fruiting Plants .—Those with the fruit in an advanced 
state require a moderately high temperature and moist atmosphere to 
secure large well-finished fruit, but ventilation must be strictly attended 
to, admitting air at the top of the house at 80°, maintaining the tem¬ 
perature by day from that point to 90°, or 5° more with liberal ven¬ 
tilation, closing at 85°. Early closing with too close and moist an 
at mosphere enlarges the crowms, which are generally quite large enough. 
Unless ventilation is early and ample scorching of the crowns may 
result, spoiling the appearance of the fruit. Examine the plants twice 
a week, applying water only when it is required. It may be enriched 
with guano or some other manure, but let it be weak, and do not give 
it after ripening commences. Syringe the plants and house two or 
three times a week, employing fire heat to maintain the temperature at 
70° by night, and 75° by day. The bottom heat keep steady at about 
85°, not less than 80°, nor above 90°. 
Preparing Stock .—Plants from which the fruit is cut may be placed 
in a part of the house by themselves, keeping the suckers on them 
for another fortnight, or until the end of the month, when they may be 
potted along with those held in reserve from March. Potting the 
suckers as the fruit is cut entails constant attention, which is not neces- 
