May 23, 1889. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
419 
manure. That from cow stables is regarded as the best. Soot is good, 
but better for heavy than light soils. Ground of a somewhat light, 
dry, and porous nature is the least unsuitable, and late spriDg planting 
usually ends in failure, however good the soil may be. If that of your 
garden is very light, some dried clay pounded into small particles would 
perhaps do more good than any kind of manure. Make the soil good to 
the depth of 18 inches at least, plant deeply, water as often as the 
plants need it, and mulch the surface with short manure. We recently 
obtained some sturdy Violas from Mr. W. Dean of Walsall, and by 
proceeding as we advise you, every plant is growing satisfactorily. If 
you are interested in Pansies and desire to know how to grow them, you 
should write to Mr. James Simkins, Kings Norton, for his book, which 
is both interesting and useful. 
Melons in Frame (A. P.'). —Train four strong main growths from 
the plants somewhat in the direction of the corners of the frame, and 
when within about 9 inches from the ends nip ofE the points. Fruit¬ 
bearing laterals will then form, and should have their points nipped out 
one leaf beyond the flower, when that leaf is the size of sixpence. No 
other growths beyond those alluded to should be allowed to extend, but 
be picked out as soon as they commence pushing. The main leaves will 
then have room to develop under the direct influence of the sun, and if 
they are kept clean and healthy, fine and well flavoured fruit will be 
produced under good management. It is immaterial whether you have 
two, three, or four plants, if the conditions mentioned are fulfilled. If 
the summer is warm and bright, and you have strong plants, also make 
the best of the sun heat by early closing, yet avoiding scorching, the 
fruit ought to ripen. We have had excellent Melons by planting in 
early June in frames without linings, a little bottom heat being afforded 
by fermenting manure. Very much, however, depends on the season 
and making the best of the weather. 
Caterpillars on Jasmine—Syringing- ( [Brampton ).—The small 
dark loop, caterpillars that eat the bark off the sweet Jasmine may 
be destroyed by well syringing with the mixture recommended on 
page 411 by Mr. Walter Kruse, as we have found from experience, 
though we made ours in smaller quantity, and not in the exact propor¬ 
tions mentioned on the page cited. We have found that } lb. of soft- 
soap, 2 ozs. of hellebore powder, and a wineglassful of petroleum pre¬ 
pared practically as recommended by Mr. Kruse sufficient in a 4-gallon 
can of water to destroy caterpillars both on Jasmines and Apple trees. 
We prefer applying the mixture in the evening, as it does not evaporate 
so soon as when used in the morning. Success largely depends on the 
thoroughness of the application. One man will fail in the work where 
another will succeed, simply because one uses the syringe much better 
than the other. Most gardeners know what a difference there is in 
young men using this instrument in the ordinary routine under glass, 
and we have more than once known young men removed from the 
charge of Peach houses because they were “ bad syringers,” and could 
not keep the trees free from the red spider. 
Bedding Calceolarias {E. 6. W.).—The “ proper treatment ” for 
the bronze coloured is the same as that which proves successful with the 
yellow varieties, namely—inserting the cuttings in sandy soil made firm 
on a layer 6f good loam in a cold frame in October, then when rooted in 
the spring, or during mild weather towards the end of March, trans- 
lant them carefully in rough rich soil, where they will have room to 
ranch, and can be protected with glass or other suitable coverings, in 
order that the plants may be strong, yet sturdy and ready for planting 
rather deeply in deeply worked and well enriched ground before the 
middle of May, provided the weather is favourable. We have never 
found these plants improved by potting, but the reverse, and probably 
you deferred the operation too long. If you did not, and the plants 
were healthy when taken up, their failure is due to some mistake in 
your management, but there is nothing in your letter to enable us to 
suggest precisely where you erred, as you do not even state where you 
kept them ; if in a greenhouse they may have been too dry. You will 
find the management of Calceolarias briefly but correctly described on 
page 396 last week. 
Gymnogramma chrysoptaylla Culture (A7. Mason). —Your plant 
does not grow because the temperature has been too low. It requires a 
night temperature of not less than 55° in winter, and a moist atmosphere 
without the foliage being wetted. The plant is probably old ; such 
plants never do so well as those which, from being very small, are 
liberally treated until they become specimens, after which they gradually 
decline. If you hare now a small plant in, say, a 4^-inch pot, we should 
pot it at once into an 8-inch pot, draining the pot to one-fourth its depth, 
and using a compost of sweet leaf mould one-half, turfy yellow loam 
one-half, and fibrous brown peat one-fourth, adding one-sixth of silver 
sand, the whole well mixed and broken with a spade, but not sifted. 
Pot rather deeply, but not so much so as to cover the crown. The plant 
should be set ip tbe lightest part of the house, have room on all sides, 
and be not more than 18 inches from the glass. The soil should be kept 
moist, but not wet, until the roots are working freely, and the tempera¬ 
ture may range from 60° to 65° by night. By day it may be 70° without 
sun, and from 80° to 85° with it, shade being afforded from 9 A.M. to 
4 p.m., when the sky is clear, but when cloudy do not shade at all. No 
shade will be needed from September to April. The plant must always 
have the soil moist, but no water should be given until it is really 
needed, then afford a supply sufficient to show itself through the bottom 
of the pot. If your plant grow as well as we expect, it will need a shift 
by the end of July, or at latest by the third week in August, so that the 
pot may be filled with roots before winter, as it will be in six weeks 
after potting if a 10-inch pot be given. From that time no more water 
should be given than is sufficient to prevent the soil becoming dry, and 
if a sufficiently moist atmosphere be maintained it will winter safely irr 
a temperature of G0° at night, and occasionally as low as 55° or even 50°, 
but this degree must be seldom reached. In March you may give a shift 
into a 15-inch pot, and we think you will have a specimen large enough 
for anything by August, and it may remain good a year or two longer. 
Names of Plants.—We only undertake to name species of plants, 
not varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm boxes. 
Slightly damp moss or soft green leaves form the best packing, dry cotton 
wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at once, 
and the numbers should be visible without untying the ligatures, 
it being often difficult to separate them when the paper is damp. 
(A. (?.).—Malus floribunda. 
CO VENT GAKDEN MARKET.— May 22nd. 
A brisk trade doing since last week, with prices generally higher. Some go oS 
samples of Graphs now to hand selling freely, as also Peaches. 
VEGETABLES. 
8. 
d. 
8. d. 
s. d. 
8. 
a. 
Artichokes, dozen .. .. 
2 
0 to 3 0 
Lettuce, dozen .. .. 
0 9 
to 1 
3. 
Asparagus,bundle .. .. 
2 
0 
5 0 
Mushrooms, punnet .. 
0 0 
1 
(V 
Beans, Kidney,per lb. .. 
1 
3 
1 6 
Mustard & CreBs, punnet 
0 2 
A 
a 
Beet, Red, dozen •• .. 
1 
0 
2 0 
New Potatoes, per lb. .. 
0 2 
0 
sr 
Broccoli, bundle .. .. 
0 
0 
0 0 
Onions, bushel .. .. 
S 0 
4 
0 
Brussels Sprouts, £ sieve 
0 
0 
0 0 
Parsley, dozen bunches 
2 0 
b 
0 
Cabbage,dozen .. •• 
1 
8 
0 0 
Parsnips, dozen .. .. 
1 0 
0 
a 
Capsicums, per 100 .. 
0 
0 
0 0 
Potatoes, per cwt. 
4 0 
6 
O' 
Carrots, bunch ., 
0 
4 
0 0 
,, Kidnev, per cwt. 
4 0 
8 
o 
Cauliflower?, dozen 
1 
0 
2 0 
Rhubarb, bundle .. .. 
0 2 
0 
0 
Celery, bundle .. 
1 
6 
2 0 
Salsify, bundle .. .. 
1 0 
1 
0 
Coleworts, dcz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 0 
SoorzonerB, bundle 
1 6 
0 
0 
Cucumbers, each .. .. 
0 
3 
0 6 
Shallots, per tb .. .. 
0 S 
0 
0 
Endive, dozen. 
1 
0 
2 0 
Spinach, bushel .. .. 
3 0 
4 
n 
Herb?, bunch.. 
0 
2 
0 0 
Tomatoes, per lb. 
1 0 
1 
» 
Leeke. bunch .. „ ., 
0 
8 
0 4 
Turnips, bunch .. .. 
0 4 
0 
0 
FRUIT. 
S. 
d. 
p. d. 
s. d. 
8. 
d. 
Apples, 1 sieve. 
2 
0 to 4 0 
Oranges, per 100 .. .. 
4 0 
to 9 
0 
,, Nova Scotia and 
Peaches, dozen. 
12 0 
18 
o 
Canada, per barrel 
7 
0 
16 0 
Pears, dozen. 
0 0 
0 
a 
Cherries, $ sieve .. .. 
0 
0 
0 0 
Plums, $-sieve. 
0 0 
0 
0 
Grapes, per lb... .. .. 
1 
6 
5 0 
8t. Michael Pine , each 
2 0 
fi 
0 
Lemons, case .. .. .. 
10 
0 
15 0 
Strawberries, per lb. 
2 0 
6 
0 
CUT FLOWERS; 
s. 
d. 
S d. 
s. d. 
8. 
d. 
Anemones (French), doz. 
Lapageria, 12 blooms .. 
1 0 to 2 
G 
binches’. 
l 
6 to 4 0 
Maidenhair Fern, doz. 
Arum Lilies, 12 blooms .. 
l 
6 
3 0 
bunches. 
6 0 
9 
0 
Azalea, 12 sprays .. .. 
0 
6 
1 0 
Marguerites, 12 bunches 
2 0 
6 
0 
Bluebells, dozen bunches 
0 
6 
1 0 
Mignonette, 12 bunches 
3 0 
6 
a 
Bouvardiap, bunch .. 
0 
9 
1 0 
Myosotis or Forgetmenots 
Camellias, White, IS bl... 
2 
0 
4 0 
doz. bunches 
1 6 
4 
a 
„ Red, 12 blooms 
0 
9 
1 6 
Narcisi (various) .. .. 
2 0 
0 
o 
Carnations, 12 blooms .. 
1 
0 
2 0 
Pelargoniums, 12 trasses 
0 9 
1 
a 
Cineraria, per bunch 
0 
6 
1 0 
„ scarlet, 12 bunches 
3 0 
S 
f* 
Eucharis, dozen .. .* 
2 
6 
5 0 
Polyanthus, doz. bunches 
2 0 
4 
0 
Gardenias, 12 blooms .. 
1 
0 
4 0 
Primroses, doz. bunohea.. 
0 6 
1 
0 
Gladioli, per bnneh.. .. 
1 
0 
1 6 
Roses, Red, 12 blooms .. 
2 0 
6 
a 
Iris, dozen bunches 
6 
0 
12 0 
„ (indoor), dozen .. 
1 0 
2 
0 
Lilac, Wnite (French), 
„ Tea, dozen .. .. 
2 0 
4 
0 
per bunch . 
8 
0 
5 0 
„ yellow . 
2 0 
c 
0 
Lilac (Engl.) 12 bunches 
4 
0 
6 0 
Spine, dozen b inches .. 
4 0 
8 
0 
Lilium candid um, doz. 
Stephanotis, doz. sprays 
2 0 
3 
0 
blooms. 
0 
9 
1 6 
Tuberoses, 12 blooms .. 
1 0 
1 
6 
Lilium longiflorum, 12 
Talips, dozen bunches .. 
9 0 
6 
0 
blooms. 
2 
0 
6 0 
Violets, 12 bunches.. .. 
0 6 
1 
0 
Lilyof the Valley .12 sprays 
0 
6 
1 0 
Violets, Parme (French), 
„ „ 12 bunches 
3 
0 
9 0 
per bunch 
3 0 
4 
0 
„ „bnnch French 
0 
6 
1 0 
Wallflowers, doz. bnnohe3 
2 0 
4 
0 
PLANTS 
IN POTS. 
S. 
d. 
8. d. 
s. d. 
8. 
d. 
Aralia Sieboldi, dozen .. 
6 
0 to 12 0 
Ferns, in variety, dozen 
4 0 to 18 
ft 
Arum Lilies, per dozen .. 
9 
0 
12 0 
Ficus elastica, each 
1 6 
7 
0 
Arbor vltselgoldeni dozen 12 
0 
24 0 
Foliage pUtts, var., each 
2 0 
10 
0 
Asters, 12 pots. 
0 
0 
0 0 
Genista, per dozen .. .. 
8 0 
12 
0 
Azalea, per dozen .. .. 
12 
0 
SO 0 
Hydrangea, per dozen .. 
9 0 
18 
ft. 
Begonias, various, per doz. 6 
0 
18 0 
Lily of the Valley, 
Bedding plants In variety, 
doz. pots . 
IS 0 
18 
a 
per doz. from .. .. 
1 
0 
0 0 
Lobe’.ias, per dozen 
4 0 
6 
0 
Bedding plants, in boxes, 
Marguerite Daisy, dozen 
6 0 
12 
0 
each . 
1 
8 
2 6 
Mignonette, per dozen .. 
5 0 
10 
0 
Caladiums, per doz. 
12 
0 
18 0 
Mask, per do-en .. .. 
3 0 
6 
0 
Christmas Bose .. .. 
0 
0 
0 0 
Myrtles, dozen. 
6 0 
12 
0 
Cineraria, per dozen 
6 
0 
9 0 
Nasturtiums, per dozen.. 
2 6 
4 
0 
Dracaena terminalis, doz. 
80 
0 
60 0 
Palme, in var., each 
2 6 
21 
a 
Dracaena viridis, doz. .. 
12 
0 
24 0 
Pelargoniums, soarlet, 12 
2 6 
6 
o 
Erica Cavendishi, doz. .. 
18 
0 
30 0 
Pelargoniums, per dozen 
9 0 
18 
0 
„ various, doz. 
12 
0 
24 0 
Spirse), per dozen .. •• 
0 0 
12 
0 
Enonymus, var.. dozen 
6 
0 
18 0 
„ palmata, per doz. 12 0 
24 
0 
Evergreens, in var., dozen 
6 
0 
24 0 
Stocks, per dozen .. .. 
3 0 
4 
0 
THE NEW “ ROYAL ” JOURNAL. 
We received our copy of this a few days ago, and its pages a~e- 
so rich in matter of vital importance to farmers, that although' 
