May 30, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
443 
is very beneficial, and should be given in some form at every alternate 
watering. 
For conservatory decoration the Chrysanthemum is most suitable in 
a bush form, so the leading shoots may be pinched out when young to 
induce others to break away, these, again, being pinched back when 
long enough, so that eight or ten strong shoots may be taken up. Each 
■of these can be neatly attached to a stake and kept tied, so that they 
may not break down or become deformed. A good selection can be 
made from all the classes—singles, Pompons, large-flowering incurved, 
j-eflexed, Japanese, and Anemone flowered. 
Begonias. —The tuberous Begonia has most deservedly become very 
popular of late years, thanks to some of our leading nurserymen and 
horticulturists. Plants may be obtained from seed sown early in the 
■spring, or from cuttings taken after the tubers have started into growth. 
A tolerably good display may be had the first season with seedlings if 
they do at all well, but plants obtained from tubers a year old are much 
larger and make a better show. Start these in February or March in a 
warm house, and when the growths are well up attend to potting. They 
should then be kept in a cooler house, or the growths will be drawn 
long and weakly. The soil used in potting must consist of about three 
parts good loam, the rest decayed leaf mould and sharp sand. In 
potting make the soil firm but not hard. After flowering the plants can 
be gradually dried off, so that the tubers may become ripened for 
•another year. These may be stored away in sand in a cool dry place, 
but they keep better if allowed to remain in the pots in which they 
■grow until required to be started again. After the tubers are four or 
five years old the plants obtained from them deteriorate, consequently 
they had then better be destroyed to make room for younger ones. 
Fuchsias. —These make useful ornaments in the conservatory during 
the summer when well grown. Cuttings should be taken in the autumn and 
kept close and shaded until rooted, when they can be potted, and placed 
■on a shelf in a warm house. They will not grow very fast during the 
winter, but with the lengthening of the days they will improve, and 
should be potted when requisite. Fuchsias like a light rich soil firmly 
placed around the roots. If well shaped plants are desired attention 
must be given to the side shoots, those at the apex of the plant being 
pinched rather closely in, so as to strengthen those lower down. The 
same plants may be grown several years, and will look well. They 
should be pruned hard back in January, taken into heat to be started 
into growth, and treated afterwards the same as young plants. 
Azaleas. —The best of these for the conservatory are the indica and 
amoena varieties. Plants are usually obtained from the continent, 
whence they arrive in the autumn after the flower buds are set. They 
make a most fine display from March to May. After flowering examine 
the plants, and those that require repotting should have their wants 
attended to. The best material to pot them in is fibrous peat and silver 
sand. They should then be placed in a gentle heat for a few weeks, 
and kept well syringed to induce a good growth, which, when made, 
should be well ripened. The plants may be placed in the open air 
towards the end of the summer, but they must be taken inside again 
before the cold weather comes. Care should always be taken in showery 
weather that they do not get too wet at the roots. This may be avoided 
by laying the pots on their sides during such times. 
Cineramas. —These are best grown from seed sown at various 
times from April to June. When the seedlings are large enough they 
-should be pricked off not too close together into pans, kept shaded from 
the direct rays of the sun, and never allowed to get too dry at the root. 
When the plants are becoming too crowded in the pans they may be 
potted into 60-size in rich, open, loamy soil. As soon as the roots 
touch the sides of the pots they can be repotted into a size or two 
larger, to be again repotted when required. During the hot days of 
summer the plants should be kept in frames sloping to the north, so as 
to be kept as cool as possible, and at night the lights can be entirely re¬ 
moved to enable the dew to settle on the leaves. When in their flower¬ 
ing pots Cinerarias, being gross feeders, should be watered with liquid 
manure occasionally, which helps to keep the foliage of a beautiful dark 
green colour. Under ordinary treatment they commence flowering 
about Christmas, and continue for about three months. 
Calceolarias. —The noble herbaceous Calceolarias are very showy 
and worthy of all care. Sow the seed in June or July in well-drained 
pans, which should be placed in some cool moist place. The Calceolaria 
is a moisture-loving plant, so wherever the plants are placed care must 
be taken that their surroundings are never very dry. The treatment re¬ 
commended for the Cineraria will answer admirably for the Calceolaria. 
Primulas. —For flowering from December onwards through the 
spring months Primula sinensis is indispensable. It may be propa¬ 
gated by division or from seed, the latter being preferable, but in the 
case of the double varieties the former is necessary. Seed should be 
sown carefully in April or May, and placed in gentle heat. As soon 
as the seedlings are large enough prick them into pans or small pots 
and keep them close and shaded in a warm house until established, 
when they should be gradually hardened. When ready they should be 
potted singly into small pots, using a light sandy compost. Watering 
must always be carefully attended to, as many plants are annually 
destroyed through want of sufficient care in this respect. Primulas 
should become well root-bound before being shifted into larger pots ; 
the most useful size to flower them in is the 48. 
Besides Primula sinensis there are other Primulas that are admirably 
adapted for the conservatory—namely, P. cortusoides amoena, P. j aponica, 
P. verticillata, and several others. Crowns of these should be potted 
after flowering, and kept growing in the open air until winter, when 
they should be placed in a cold frame. 
Cyclamen. —Seed of Cyclamen persicum may be sown either in the 
autumn or in January, and when the seedlings are large enough they 
should be put in small pots, and potted as required. A shelf in an inter¬ 
mediate house is a good place on which to grow them. 
Coleus. —Though not remarkable for its flowering properties, the 
Coleus makes an excellent decorative plant, on account of its beautiful 
foliage. When the old plants are past their best in the autumn take 
cuttings for stock, and when rooted place them on a shelf in a warm 
house. For making specimen plants take cuttings from these in March 
or April, and grow in a rich light soil. They should be grown in a 
warm house, not far from the glass, and be allowed all the sun possible 
to well colour the foliage. They can be employed in the conservatory 
from June till August inclusive. 
Tree Carnations. —Insert cuttings in September or October in 
a cold frame, or in February in beat. When rooted they should be 
potted off and kept in a cool place. When necessary repot into a size 
larger, using a compost of loam, leaf mould, sand, and a little well- 
decayed manure. They may be placed outside on an ash border in the 
sun during the summer, but must not be left out after the end of 
September. To keep a succession of bloom, Carnations need the lightest 
and warmest end of the conservatory during the winter. 
Richardia jethiopica. —This beautiful Aroid has a most noble 
effect when mixed with other flowering plants. After flowering place 
them aside in trenches, so that copious supplies of water may easily be 
given. In the autumn they should be carefully lifted and potted, and 
if placed in a gentle heat will soon grow and throw up flowers plenti¬ 
fully. The Richardia is propagated by division. 
Petunias. —These may be grown from seed sown early in the spring, 
but if the .named varieties are to be perpetuated it must be done by 
cuttings, which should be taken in March, and struck in heat. When 
ready pot them in light rich soil. They grow best in an intermediate 
house close to the glass, and when in bloom last a long time in beauty 
in the conservatory. 
Mignonette. —Though not so showy as many other plants, Mig¬ 
nonette is very useful, if for nothing else than its perfume. It is of 
very easy cultivation. Seed may be sown at any time in the spring 
for summer flowering, but to bloom in the winter it should be sown in 
September, thinly, in 48-size, and placed in a cold frame close to 
the glass. As soon as the seedlings are a fair size select three of the 
best in each pot, all the others being pulled out. They should be 
kept in the frame until they come into flower, when they may be 
neatly staked and taken to the conservatory as required. 
Salvias. —Cuttings of these can be taken in March or April, and 
struck in gentle heat. When rooted place them singly into small 
pots and gradually harden them that they may be planted out¬ 
side. They should be lifted and potted before there is any likelihood 
of frost. The best species for winter work is S. splendens and 
its varieties S. Heeri and S. gesnerasflora .* 
Mimulus. —These are mostly propagated from seed or by division, 
and should be grown in a cold frame till in bloom. The showy 
M. cardinalis and M. tigrinus are very useful for pot work, as is also 
Harrison’s Musk. 
Hardwooded Plants. —As a rule these are bought in from the 
nurserymen, which is by far the best way of securing a stock. They 
require very careful cultivation if good results are desired. In the 
first place they must always be supplied with rain water, and care 
must be taken that at each watering sufficient is given to thoroughly 
wet all the soil in the pot, otherwise the plants will soon become 
* Is the essayist accurate as to the origin of these two Salvias ? 
