446 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May SO, 1889. 
Royal George, Stirling Castle, &c., in the same house or in a house to 
themselves, which is much better, will be ripening their fruit shortly, 
but they are fully a fortnight or three weeks later than usual, and must 
not be syringed, though if the trees become infested with red spider a 
thorough syringing may be given when there is a prospect of a fine day, 
as with the water hanging on them any length of time the skin is liable 
to crack in fruits partly ripe, whilst those that are nearly ripe will be 
much deteriorated' in quality. The trees must not be allowed to suffer 
by want of water at the roots, but any excess of moisture at this stage 
has a tendency to cause splitting at the stone. 
Houses Started Early in January. —The fruits of the very early 
varieties are nearly ripe, but of the usual varieties—viz., Hale’s Early, 
Royal George, &c., the fruits will not be ripe for some time yet. The 
leaves must be turned aside, and the fruit raised on laths placed across 
the wires of the trellis with its apex to the light, and this having been 
•done some time ago the fruit will be coloured fairly well, though the 
absence of sun has not allowed the attainment of high colour this 
season. If the weather prove dull and wet gentle fire heat will be 
necessary to secure a circulation of air constantly, the temperature being 
maintained at 60° to 65° artificially at night and 5° to 10° more by day. 
■Cease syringing as soon as the fruit begins to be soft, and take care to 
have the foliage free from red spider before the syringing ceases, as the 
pest will increase so rapidly whilst the fruit is ripening as to seriously 
jeopardise future crops. See that there is no deficiency of moisture in 
the border, and, if necessary, give a thorough supply of water, mulching 
with some light material, such as spent Mushroom bed manure or 
partially decayed stable litter. 
Successioii Houses. —Do not hurry the trees during the stoning, but 
allow time for the exhausting process. Allow a free extension of the 
laterals as an encouragement of root action, but be careful not to crowd 
the principal foliage, and keep insect pests in check by syringing twice 
a day. When the fruits have stoned remove all surplus fruits, and turn 
the others to the light to ensure their colouring well from the apex. 
Give thorough supplies of water through a good surface mulching of 
lumpy material, and supply weakly trees with tepid liquid manure. 
Vigorous trees will not need more than a surface mulching, as high feed¬ 
ing will only cause grossness and must be studiously avoided. Venti¬ 
late early, and close early in the afternoon with plenty of atmospheric 
moisture, so as to raise the heat to 80° or 85°, and ventilate a little after¬ 
wards for the night, the temperature being allowed to fall to between 
<30° and 65°. 
Late Houses. —Train and tie in the young shoots that are to carry 
next year’s crop, and allow them to extend as far as space admits, 
being careful to avoid overcrowding. Pinch all side shoots that are not 
wanted for next year’s fruiting or for furnishing the trees, and stop any 
•gross shoots so as to cause an equal distribution of the sap. In thinning 
leave a few more than will be required for the crop. A Peach to every 
■square foot of trellis covered by the trees is ample. Nectarines may be 
left a little closer. Keep the foliage clean by syringing twice a day in 
fine weather, and always sufficiently early to allow the foliage to 
become dry before night. Mulch the borders lightly with manure, or 
if the trees are young and vigorous lighter and less rich material will be 
better. Water thoroughly whenever necessary, always giving sufficient 
at a time to reach the drainage. Ventilate early, and increase the 
ventilation with the sun heat, closing early if the ripening is to be 
accelerated, but if wanted late keep the house as cool as possible by free 
ventilation day and night. 
Young trees in course of formation for filling their allotted space 
should be properly disbudded, leaving the main branches or shoots for 
forming them about 18 inches apart, and the bearing wood at 18 inches 
along them, training the extensions their full length, and pinching the 
side shoots on last year’s wood to two or three leaves, so as to form 
spurs. Laterals should be pinched at the first joint, and successional 
growth as made. 
Melons. —Houses or pits where the fruit is ripening will require a 
rather dry and warm condition of the atmosphere, allowing a circulation 
of air constantly, and the moisture at the roots should be moderated, 
yet if kept too dry the foliage will suffer and the prospects of a second 
•crop be seriously interfered with. When the crop is cut clear out for 
another crop. If the plants have fallen a prey to red spider thoroughly 
cleanse the house, the woodwork with soft-soapy water, the glass with 
water only, limewashing the walls, and removing the whole of the soil. 
If fermenting materials have been used for bottom heat add some fresh, 
and mix with the top foot or 18 inches of the old material, some of the 
most exhausted being removed. Make firm, put in ridges or hillocks of 
good loam; if not calcareous add some old mortar rubbish, and road 
scrapings if deficient of grit. Tread well down in a couple of days. In 
planting make the soil firm about the plants, and the balls and soil 
being moist no water will be needed until the roots have taken to the 
fresh soil. Shade from bright sun for a few days, and maintain a genial 
■condition of the atmosphere by damping available surfaces in the morn¬ 
ing and afternoon. Ventilate between 70° and 75°, keep through the 
day at 80° to 85° from sun heat, and close sufficiently early to run up 
40 90°. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Early Bedding Out. — It is not often many plants are placed 
out by the middle of May, but it has been done this season. Should 
the weather remain warm a good early start will be effected, but 
if the nights are cold, and cold rains fall, the more delicate will 
suffer, and be very late in recovering. When the plants change colour 
or do not start away so quickly as desirable, it must not be too hastily 
decided that these require more water, as it usually happens that daily 
drenchings do much more harm than good. It is warmth that is most 
needed, and if the plants are kept moderately moist at the root, shaded 
from fierce sunshine, and lightly protected during cold nights, they soon 
recover from the check. Mats and blinds can easily be stretched over 
small beds every evening, and branches of deciduous trees would 
answer the double purpose of shading and protecting. 
Planting Newly Cleared Beds. —Wallflowers, Forget-me-nots, Sapo- 
narias, Silenes, and such like greatly impoverish the ground, and when 
they are cleared off, the beds are usually in a very dry state. Zonal 
Pelargoniums, Petunias, Marguerites, and Tropasolums if planted some¬ 
what thickly will succeed fairly well on poor dry ground, but the 
majority of summer bedding plants present a much starved appearance 
unless more liberally treated at the roots. Newly cleared beds then 
ought to have a good dressing of short manure well mixed with the top 
spit, and if dry and hard water should be freely applied in the evening 
previous to the day of planting. Thus treated the soil will break down 
finely, and the planting can then be done properly and quickly. Solid 
manure is preferable to any kind of special or liquid manure, as it 
serves to retain moisture longer in the bed, but if not available either of 
the latter should be applied, and in the course of about a fortnight a 
mulching of either short grass from the mowing machine, leaf soil, or 
cocoa-nut fibre refuse should be given. 
Tuberous Begonias. —These thrive best when planted in well enriched 
soil and a somewhat cooler position than their old rival, the Zonal Pelar¬ 
gonium, delights in. They transplant readily from the boxes of soil 
in which they were started, and soon become showy, a rainy season not 
much affecting them. They are most effective in masses, edged, say, 
with either Lobelias, Mesembryanthemums, or Golden Pyrethrum. 
Strong plants should be placed not less than 9 inches apart each way, 
and those with one stem only, or young seedlings, about 6 inches apart. 
Should there be a scarcity of plants, or if a change of style is desirable, 
they may be disposed farther apart, between or among them being 
planted either Lobelias or Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum. 
These, in addition to forming a neat groundwork, also serve to keep 
the ground cooler and more moist than it otherwise would be. The 
old Begonia weltoniensis succeeds well planted out, and a trial may 
well be given to Begonia Cariierei. 
Coleuses. —The rich velvety crimson Coleus Verschaffelti can ill be 
spared from a summer arrangement. It is suitable for banding gold or 
silver variegated Zonal Pelargoniums with an outer edging of blue 
Lobelia, but is far more effective massed in the centre of a bed edged 
with a broad band of dwarf golden leaved Pelargonium. The latter, 
or any other edging used, may be planted at once, but the Coleus ought 
not to be planted before the second week in June, or even later in most 
localities. It should be put out sufficiently thick to cover the ground at 
once, and a warm and light rather than a rich soil best suits it. 
Heliotropiums. —These again are somewhat tender, and ought there¬ 
fore to be carefully hardened and planted later. The dark varieties are 
very effective when massed in the centre of a bed and surrounded by a 
sturdy growing silver variegated Zonal Pelargonium. They ought also 
to be freely introduced into mixed and ribbon borders, and they form a 
good groundwork for variegated Japanese Maize. 
Fuchsias. —A bed of these may well be tried, especially where variety 
is preferred. It is useless to turn them out into poor dry soil, and they 
will well repay for any extra trouble taken with them. Plenty of leaf 
soil and decayed manure ought to be mixed freely with the surface soil, 
a mulching being given subsequently. Any of the freer-growing 
varieties that succeed in pots may be planted out well clear of each 
other, and Lobelias, Musk, Mignonette, or any other trailing plants 
intermingled among them. 
Iresines.— In common with Coleuses and Alternantheras these must 
not be put out too hurriedly. I. Herbsti is the freest grower, and as this 
can be pegged down and trained at will it is most suitable for forming a 
broad band round variegated Zonal Pelargoniums in mixture with blue 
Violas or otherwise. I. Lindeni is of stiffer habit, and frequently fails on 
cold heavy ground. This also is suitable for edgings, and is effective in 
mixture with Gazania splendens. 
Marguerites and Petunias. —One of the oldest arrangements in 
which the former has figured consists of a mixture of Marguerites and 
Petunias ; the latter were the most freely used and formed a showy 
groundwork ; they are still among the best for hot positions and poor 
soils. Marguerites may also be effectively dotted among Verbenas, 
seedling or otherwise, and a few plants ought to be introduced into 
large mixed beds and borders. The white flowering Marguerites are the 
most commonly used, but the yellow Comte de Chambord and Etoile 
d’Or are even more attractive. 
Various. —If a flat even mass of colour is needed the Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums should be planted in a sloping direction, this rendering pegging 
down a comparatively easy matter, and the larger the plants the better 
for the purpose. Verbenas require a rather rich soil and plenty of mois¬ 
ture when growing, and if clean young but not wiry plants are put out 
they will soon cover th ground. Cutting-raised plants are suitable 
for the centres of small beds and for edging when one colour is needed, 
while the seedlings do well in a large bed. A bed of mixed Lantanas 
is rather uncommon and very attractive, and a large bed may quickly be 
filled with single Dahlias pegged down. Seedling Petunias and Tro- 
pseolums will thrive and flower freely on a hot bank, but Violas require 
plenty of moisture and rich soil. Dahlias will grow almost anywhere 
though they pay for good treatment. Stocks, Asters, Zinnias, and Pent 
