46 G 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June G, 1889. 
Charles Turner at Slough, and many amateur collections around London, 
now all tilings of the past, for it is to the north eyes are turned for good 
collections of this brilliant flower. 
I think that most lovers of florists’ flowers may congratulate them¬ 
selves so far on the improved condition of things as compared with last 
year. There may come disappointment, but so far all has gone well, 
and the prospect is an encouraging one.—D., Deal. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Grape Vines. —The wood ripened badly last season, a natural con¬ 
sequence being, in most instances, either a thin crop or total failure this 
year. They ought not on this account to be neglected, but the shoots— 
always plentifully produced—should at once be freely thinned out, 
leaving one, or at the most two, to each spur. Any of the laterals with 
a bunch attached to be stopped at the second joint beyond this and 
duly fastened to the wall, fence, or trellis, as the case may be ; all other 
reserved lateral growth not required for furnishing blank space to be 
stopped at the fifth or sixth joint, and also securely fastened, the aim 
being to secure stout well ripened shoots, which, after being duly pruned 
in the winter, will not fail to push fruitful shoots next year. In 
furtherance of this idea no sub-lateral growth or that resulting from 
the stopped laterals ought to be allowed to ramble, but all should be 
kept rather closely stopped at the first joint, or much as Vines under 
glass are treated. Leading growths laid in for furnishing ought to be 
stopped when from -t feet to 0 feet in length, according to their vigour, 
and the side shoots on these also pinched back to the first joint. Unless 
this is well attended to young wood fails to ripen properly in this 
country. Worn out or unfruitful Vines may be much improved if 
young growths are laid in at short intervals along the old rods, they 
may be completely clothed with them in fact, and if these are stopped 
when about 2 feet long there will be no necessity to shorten them at 
pruning time. 
Young- Fruit Trees. —Amateurs especially are frequently too 
anxious to get some return for their outlay on fruit trees, forgetting or 
overlooking the fact that it is quite possible to kill or cripple the 
“ goose that lays the golden eggs.” A newly planted tree ought not to 
be allowed to develop flowers even, but if these are not removed and 
fruit has set, all should be unhesitatingly removed at once. If this is 
not done the chances are the trees will endeavour to but not succeed in 
perfecting the fruit, and be exhausted by the effort, badly stunted 
living examples of the effect of a disease known as “ gardener’s greed ” 
being the ultimate result. Newly planted trees, whether young or old, 
should be assisted to expend what force there remains in them after 
experiencing a severe check consequent upon removal in the production 
of young wood growth, this also having a recuperative effect. Nor 
should those longer planted, but not yet growing vigorously, be allowed 
to carry heavy crops, or a serious check may be given. The reserved 
fruit is very much the better for the timely thinning out, and a healthy 
wood growth will not be prevented. A mulching of strawy manure 
ought to be given newly planted trees, and all others not in a healthy 
free-growing state would also be benefited by a mulch of some kind. 
Thinning Crops.— Only careless or inexperienced cultivators 
neglect to thin out freely and early those choice fruits requiring such 
relief. Allowing the trees to reject a certain portion of a heavy crop is 
a very haphazard and unscientific method of procedure. The trees will 
endeavour to mature the whole of the crops that may be set on them, 
and be greatly weakened by the effort. Better by far to anticipate the 
natural thinning-out process by removing in some instances two-thirds, 
in others nearer one-half, the crops set, not, however, all at once, but 
gradually, commencing now and, in the case of Plums, finishing when 
the fruits are large enough for pies or preserving. Not only are the pre¬ 
sent crops much enhanced in value by this judicious thinning out, but 
the trees are not nearly so much w'eakened, and therefore are more 
likely to bear freely again next season. Fruits this season which most 
need thinning out are Apricots, Peaches, Plums, and Cherries, and but 
for the maggot Pears and Apples would also require to be freely 
thinned. 
Cleansing Fruit Trees. —Red spider, green and black aphis, and 
maggots are far too numerous this season, and unless their progress is 
checked many trees will be seriously crippled by them. The latter 
should be well searched for and crushed, this being a somewhat tedious 
but the only sure remedy. Where birds are most numerous the caterpillars 
or maggots are not nearly so destructive, one of the best friends to the 
fruit grower being found in the robin. The other pests must be kept 
down with the garden engine, or failing this a syringe be forcibly 
used on the evenings of warm days. Insecticides if strong enough to 
destroy insects are also liable to injure the tender fruit, notably Peaches, 
and no inexperienced or reckless person should be entrusted with them. 
Soapsuds or soft water made only with softsoap and applied forcibly 
will dislodge most of the insects, and this ought to be rinsed off with 
clear water. A solution of quassia chips and softsoap, or the latter and 
tobacco water freely diluted with clear soft water, will destroy many of 
the insects, while soot water is distasteful to the pests and also acts as a 
fertiliser. If the soot is first made into a thick paste it can be more 
readily mixed with water, and on the whole will be found one of the 
safest and best insecticides that can be tried. If mildew is troublesome 
substitute sulphur for soot, mix and apply in the same way, well coating 
the affected parts with it. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines.— Suckers Potted in March. —The strongest of these should 
be in their largest pots. If they be not yet potted no further delay 
must be permitted, as to retain them longer in small pots is detrimental 
to their growth. Recently potted plants must have a bottom heat of 
8.1° to '.HI 0 , and be thoroughly watered after potting, and no more be 
given until the soil becomes dry, as it is necessary to exercise more care 
than usual at this stage, the state of individual plants being ascertained 
before its application. 
Young Stock. —The plants are now making rapid progress,, and must 
be regularly attended to in every particular, allowing sufficient space 
for development, as nothing is so inimical to sturdy plants as crowding 
them together in their early stages. Ventilate early in the day at 75° to 
80°, to render the foliage dry before it is affected by the sun. Discon¬ 
tinue shading suocessional plants. Shade will, however, be necessary 
for fruits with the crowns in close proximity to the glass, but it need 
only be slight, and only under powerful sun. 
Winter Fruiters.— The strongest plants that were shifted into fruit¬ 
ing pots last September will be showing signs of fruiting, or, if such be 
not the case, means must be applied to effect it, with a view to a supply 
of early winter fruits. The plants should be brought together and 
sut jected to a comparative rest for the next five or six weeks, lowering 
the heat at the roots to 75°, and allowing it to fall to that degree before 
closing the house, only employing artificial heat to prevent the tempera¬ 
ture falling below 00° at night, not withholding water entirely, but when 
a plant becomes dry supply it liberally. The smaller plants that were 
not placed into the fruiting pots last autumn, but were wintered in 
smaller pots and shifted this spring, should be kept growing until the 
pots are well filled with roots, at which time, if thought necessary, they 
may be subjected to similar treatment as advised for the larger ones, 
and those plants will then give a suceessional supply of fruit. 
V ines. —Early House. —When the Vines are cleared of the fruit give 
the inside borders a thorough supply of tepid liquid manure. This will 
help to plump the buds and encourage root action, so essential to activity 
of the laterals—the best preventive of premature ripening of the foliage. 
Keep the ventilators open constantly, even in cold weather a circulation 
should be insured. Syringe thoroughly, to cleanse the foliage of dirt and 
insects, especially red spider, and repeat occasionally, or as found neces¬ 
sary to keep the old or main leaves healthy. Fresh laterals will soon be 
produced, and cultivators should maintain an even growth all over the 
Vines, pinching the gross shoots and encouraging the weak, keeping 
them clear of the principal leaves, which nourish the buds at their base. 
The mulching or covering having been removed from the outside border, 
with just sufficient of the lightest part left to protect the roots, a good 
watering with liquid manure may be given, but the recent rains having 
been general this will only be needed where none has fallen. Avoid 
heavy mulchings, and nothing is better than a couple of inches of fresh 
stable manure. 
Second Early Houses. —Vines started early in the year will have the 
Grapes well advanced in ripening. Maintain a circulation of warm 
rather dry air constantly, increasing the ventilation early. Keep the 
floors, fee., well damped on hot days to check excessive evaporation, 
allowing the temperature to fall to (10° or 65° at night, with sufficient 
ventilation and warmth in the pipes to prevent moisture condensing. 
If there is likely to be any want of finish allow the Vines time by giving 
as long a rest at night as possible. If there is any doubt about the roots 
lacking moisture examine the border, and if found necessary give a 
thorough soaking of water in the morning of a fine day, then mulch 
with a little light material. This will probably be sufficient to keep 
the border moist until the Grapes are cut—if not, it must be repeated. 
Moderate moisture is essential to the health of the foliage, hence damp¬ 
ing the floor and stages must be resorted to occasionally, there not being 
any fear of its damaging ripe Grapes at this season if the moisture is 
accompanied by air ; besides, it will assist the Grapes. To prevent 
colour being taken out of Hamburghs a double thickness of herring or 
single thickness of pilchard netting should be drawn over the roof lights. 
Allow a moderate extension of the laterals to encourage root action, but 
subdue gross laterals, so as to cause an equal distribution of the sap. 
When the Grapes are ripe a minimum temperature of G0° will be 
sufficient. 
Midseason Houses. —Vines in these will be in various stages according 
to the time of starting. Those which have stoned will be swelling the 
berries fast, and the borders should have a soaking of tepid water 
through a good surface mulching; or if the Vines are not very vigorous 
and carrying a heavy crop liquid manure will be necessary. The 
drainage being good, either water or liquid manure will need to- be 
continued at fortnightly intervals until the Grapes are somewhat 
advanced in colouring, when it must be stopped ; yet the border must 
not be allowed to become so dry as to affect the foliage injuriously. 
Have a little ventilation constantly at the apex, and ventilate freely in 
the early part of the day, closing early with sun heat and a genial 
condition of the atmosphere. Fire heat will only be necessary to secure 
j 60° to 05° at night and 70° to 75° by day, keeping through the day at 
; 80” to 85°, and closing sufficiently early to run up to 90° or 95°. This 
