Junt 13, If 9. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
487 
Selaginella Kraussiana, Panicum variegatmn, Tradescantia bicolor, 
Smilax, and Isolepis gracilis, are all suitable and appropriate for surfacing 
the ground among these plants, or any other trailing fine-foliaged or 
flowering plants may be used for a similar purpose. Mixed beds com¬ 
posed largely of flowering plants are also effective. Strong plants in 
pots of Fuchsias, Plumbago capensis, Heliotropes, double and single 
Zonal Pelargoniums, Tuberous and other Begonias, Celosias and Cocks¬ 
combs, Marguerites, Erythrinas, Carnations, Campanula pyramidalis, 
Lilium auratum, and Gladioli are all capable of being turned to good 
account in filling large mixed beds. All would succeed best planted out 
in enriched ground. It should perhaps be added that, it is not advisable 
to fill beds forming part of a design with these comparatively large 
plants, and in any case a somewhat sheltered position is desirable. 
Mulching the Beds .—A mulchiDg of leaf soil, cocoa-nut fibre refuse, 
fine peat, or even grass- from the mowing machine, serves to keep the 
plants cleaner, splashing being to a certain extent prevented, and also 
saves much labour in watering. The surface of the beds should be 
first loosened and levelled with a small flat hoe, and after the mulching 
is applied the training ought to be commenced. In any case, or whether 
the beds are mulched or not, surface hoeing and levelling may well be 
done by a careful operator, and if it is necessary to water the beds again 
do it in the evening, and if possible use pond or soft water. 
Thinning out Annuals .—Slugs have in too many instances rendered 
thinning out impossible, but those who have been fortunate in preserv¬ 
ing their border-raised annuals will act wisely in freely thinning out the 
patches where the seedlings are at all thick. For instance, if Mignonette 
plants are given good room they will cover ground 12 inches square, 
and flower strongly till frosts cut them down ; whereas, if crowded 
together the plants quickly spoil each other, and no good flower spikes 
are obtained. Poppies, Candytuft, Clarkias, Convolvulus, Cornflowers, 
Eschscholtzias, Godetias, and various other annuals require less room as 
a rule, but all of them pay for being well thinned out. In some in¬ 
stances the thinnings may be transplanted to where there are blank 
spaces, but they rarely succeed so well as those sown where they are to 
grow. 
Seeds to he Sown .—Although May is the best month in most districts 
to sow seeds of Wallflowers, Brompton Stocks, Forget-me-nots, and 
Sweet Williams, useful, if smaller plants, may yet be obtained if the 
seed is sown at once. The seed will germinate more quickly if sown in 
boxes or pans placed on a bed of ashes at the foot of a north wall. From 
these boxes the plants should be early pricked out on a border or good 
open piece of ground. The plan of sowing the seed thinly in shallow 
moistened dril's where the plants are to grow all the summer answers 
well, and is the simplest in the end. Holyhocks may be sown in the 
open ground now, the seedlings being wintered in cold frames ready for 
putting out next spring. Pansies, Primroses, and Polyanthuses may 
also be sown in the open, numbers of serviceable plants being frequently 
raised in this way. If the garden soil is naturally heavy or lumpy, a 
liberal quantity of sifted light mould from the frame ground should be 
provided either for sowing or transplanting very small seedlings in. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Hoeing. —We are often surprised to see gardens at this season so full 
of weeds. There may be no time to pull them up, but the hoe would 
have prevented them, and by its use on a fine day thousands may be 
destroyed. The garden is then not only rendered neater and more 
enjoyable, but loosening the soil stimulates the growth of useful crops. 
For instance, at the present time our quarter of spring-sown Onions is 
quite free from weeds, but we still run the Dutch hoe between the rows 
once a fortnight, regarding it as both a cleanser and fertiliser, as it un¬ 
doubtedly is. If instead of allowing weeds to run rampant the hoe 
were used freely the results could not fail to be satisfactory. Where 
weeds exist uproot them at once, and use the hoe to prevent others 
appearing. 
Eabthing-ttp Crops. —This is another operation we do not neglect, 
Cabbages, Cauliflowers, Potatoes, Broad Beans, Kidney Beans, and all 
crops that grow tall are benefited by being supported at the base of the 
stems. Unless Potatoes are earthed many of the tubers become ex¬ 
posed, turn green, and are useless as food. Cauliflowers are very apt to 
be attacked by maggots at the root, but if a good handful of soot is 
sprinkled round each plant and the soil drawn up to the stem with the 
drag hoe few of them will be injured. Late Potatoes are now being 
earthed up, and Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, and Broccoli will be planted 
between the rows. 
Asparagus. —This valuable vegetable has been very productive this 
season, but the growths came up rapidly, and its season is shorter than 
usual. We have ceased cutting, and the growths are being made secure 
against breakage by the wind. This attention is not always given to 
Asparagus in summer, as we have often noticed fine shoots broken 
by storms when a stake and a tie or two would have saved them to 
the immense advantage of the root. We have seen Asparagus seed 
germinate much better than it has done this year, and young plants will 
require to be kept quite free from weeds to allow them to make useful 
growth. If time will allow and dry weather should occur the whole of 
the plants would be greatly improved by weekly soakings of water. If 
liquid manure can be applied so much the better, but clean water may 
also be used. Those who value good Asparagus will not grudge this 
labour in assisting the growth of the plants. 
Herbs from Seed. —Thyme, Sage, anti some others of the herbs 
often fail to grow from seed sown in March, but if good the seed will 
germinate freely if sown in June, and the plants then grow quickly. 
As most of the seeds are small they should be sown in friable soil, and 
they all do better in rows than broadcast. 
Vacant Frames.— Several frames are now vacant. Some of them 
may be required for plants in pots, but probably not all, and Cucumbers 
may be planted in them. These will grow and fruit freely without 
artificial heat, and the crops may be useful. Capsicums and Egg Plants 
also succeed in frames in summer, but care must be taken that they are- 
kept free from insects by syringing and fumigating. 
Liquid Manure for Vegetables.— Now "that the weather is 
warm and dry, and the vegetables growing freely, liquid manure may 
be given them with marked advantage. Peas that are filling their pods. 
Cauliflowers about to head, Onions bulbing, and all vegetables ad¬ 
vancing to maturity will be benefited by copious applications. If a 
tank is attached to the stable or cow house good liquid manure will be 
available, or guano or some other kinds of artificial manures may be 
dissolved in water and applied at once. 
Staking Runner Beans. —All who can secure stakes for Runner 
Beans invariably use them, as it is found that when the plants are 
staked and allowed to run up 6 feet or 7 feet they bear longer and more 
profusely than when confined to short stems without stakes. If we 
could not secure stakes we would grow twice the number of the un¬ 
staked rows, as it would take this number to produce an equal quantity 
of Beans, though the rows need not be more than half the distance 
asunder. When stakes are used they should be inserted before the 
plants commence running, or they will twine round each other and not 
take to the supports in a proper way afterwards. A second sowing 
should be made now in well manured trenches, covering the seeds 
3 inches deep. Another sowing should also be made of Peas, Broad 
Beans, Turnips, Radish, Spinach, and Lettuce. 
HE BBE-KBEPBRu 
NOTES ON BEES. 
WHAT MAKES BEES DWINDLE? 
“ About a week ago a cold north-east wind brought a couple of 
chilly days. On the coldest of these days we were away from 
home. Throughout the day the sun either shone hazily or was 
thinly clouded. When we got home we found bees in the water 
tubs, bees in the chicken troughs, bees in the buttermilk, bees in 
the grass, bees on the walks, bees on the pump, bees everywhere, 
benumbed, and unable to get home. This is what I find always 
causes bees to dwindle—chilly, cloudy, damp weather. Of course, 
bees that are least healthy are least able to stand such weather, and 
the colony that is situated and packed so as to be dryest and 
warmest will be the healthiest. High-pressure methods of stimu¬ 
lation very early in the spring also drive bees out to perish, often 
tearing down faster than building up.—-George F. Robbins, 
Mechanicsburg, Ill., April 19th, 1889.” The above is from “ Glean¬ 
ings ” of May 15th, and is not only in sentiment but in expression 
what I have long advocated and taught. Its able editor, Mr. A. J. 
Root, in a footnote says, “ I think, frieud R, you are exactly 
right in the matter : and we should endeavour to have the bees- 
stay in their hives during such weather, if there is any way to 
manage it.” 
The best answer to give to the last sentence is Yes, there is a 
way. Follow the advice given in these pages. Store your bees 
properly, and with sufficient stores in August or September, in 
properly constructed hives efficiently protected from the weather, 
and let them alone until genial weather calls them forth, then the 
experienced bee-keeper will know whether any manipulation will 
be necessary or not. In few cases will it be required. Attention to 
having a proper queen at the head of all stocks is imperative, and 
perhaps “ A Hallamshire Bee-keeper,” who has already hinted at 
this, may give more of his experience on this important point. It 
would be only a repetition of what I have frequently warned bee¬ 
keepers against were I to attempt to enumerate all the causes of 
hives dwindling. The best advice as to what to do is, do nothing. 
One bee-keeper shaded the front of his hives during a snowstown» 
the bees flew out, and hindered by the supposed protection none 
re-entered, and the hives became useless. 
The more comfortable bees are kept the more able they are to 
resist the chilling atmosphere, and they do not fall victims to 
its fatal conducting power. Bees from a hive cold in the ntenor 
