496 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Jane SO, 1889. 
Sturmer Pippin was also in fine condition, and the fiuit very hand¬ 
some, beautifully coloured, the skin being smooth and wax-like, and the 
flavour most excellent. This might form a profitable importation. 
Gulden Reinette is beautifully coloured and of large size, while the 
flavour, though much dissipated by the long journey, is still good, and 
gives evidence of this being one of the best varieties for exportation. 
Prince Alfred is a very handsome Apple, raised by Mrs. Parsons of 
Hobart, from Emperor Alexander. It is a very showy Apple, an idea of 
which will be conveyed by our figure (fig. 80). The fruit does not 
possess high flavour, that having evidently vanished by the heating to 
which the fruit has been subjected. Of this splendid Apple Dr. Benja- 
field says, “ The tree from which these were picked is five years old, and 
Mr. John T. Shield, the grower, says it produced one bushel, those sent 
being a medium sample, weighing 1 lb. each, the largest weighing 1 i lb.> 
And measuring 4J inches high, with a girth of 15^ inches. I kept one 
last season for seven months after picking.” 
Some specimens marked A are the most highly coloured Cox’s Orange 
Pippin we have ever seen. Some of them are of a dark mahogany colour, 
while others, though highly coloured, have on the shaded side more of 
the home character. 
The five varieties named arrived in first-class marketable conditior, 
and the four which are familiar to our readers are in size, colour, and 
texture superior to home-grown samples, the fruit having the appear¬ 
ance of the fine specimens occasionally seen at our exhibitions, that 
have been grown under glass. The seedling Prince Alfred in colour 
and markings somewhat resembles the best specimens of Peasgood’s 
Nonesuch, from which, however, it is wholly distinct. It would no doubt 
be excellent for cooking, while such fruits as those before us would 
form noble dishes on banqueting and private dessert tables. The fruits 
reached us as fresh as when gathered from the tree. We regard them as 
the finest yet received from Tasmania, and fruit in bulk equal to the 
samples could scarcely fail to command attention in our markets at 
midsummer. 
THE CULTIVATION OF THE FUCHSIA. 
fEead by Mr. John Farrcw at a meet in tr of the Sheffield Floral and Horticultural 
Society.] 
It would be difficult to name a more generally use ul decorative 
plant than the Fuchsia. It is a favourite with all classes on account of 
the ease with which it can be grown almost in any kind of soil and 
situation. Its free flowering habit and the accommodating way in which 
it will flourish in any sized pot renders it especially popular. It is 
useful for covering rafters and pillars in lofty conservatories, in which 
positions it is seen to the best advantage, for its flowers hang in the 
most natural and graceful manner. It is also useful for growing into 
specimen plants, the pyramidal form of training being the one generally 
adopted. It may also be grown in baskets hanging from the roof. It 
can be grown in beds and borders, and proves very effective m warmer 
districts than Sheffield. I have seen it out of doors forming an impor¬ 
tant feature, unsurpassable for its drooping habit and productiveness of 
bloom. I will, however, deal with the Fuchsia as a greenhouse plant, 
commencing the cultural details by describing the raising of varieties 
from seed. 
If you wish for new and rare varieties you will have to carefully 
select the plants you intend to cross. The fertilised flowers must be 
guarded from winged insects, or they will render your labour different 
from what you expected. When the fleshy berries are ripe they should 
be placed on a warm shelf in a greenhouse exposed to the sun, and when 
shrivelled the seed may be taken out and dried. It is then ready for 
sowing at any time. Sow the seed in a well-drained pan or pot, the soil 
consisting of half yellow loam and half leaf mould, with a good 
sprinkling of sand. Take care before sowing to have the surface of the 
soil level. When the seed is sown cover with fine soil, water gently, 
place in a heat of about 70°, and shade from the sun. Germination 
will quickly take place, and when the seed ings are large enough place 
them in small pots, keeping them in the same temperature for a time, 
but when they are well established they should be gradually hardened 
to a lower temperature, kept near the glass, and lightly shaded in 
bright weather. They may also be syringed morning and afternoon, and 
if properly attended to with water and ventilation will soon make good 
plants. During warm weather in summer the plants may be grown 
in cold frames, and taken into the greenhouse when showing flower. 
I do not recommend stopping seedlings, but let them take their own 
way, so as to ascertain the natural habit of each variety—a matter of 
great importance, as some plants prove worthless on account of their 
straggling appearance, while others throw out regular shoots and 
form compact pyramids. No matter how fine the flowers may be, if the 
habit of the plant be bare and straggling it makes it worthless for high 
culture. Most of the varieties will bloom the first season, but if not 
they will most certainly the following one, when they can be judged as 
to their qualities and merits. 
Raising Fuchsias from cuttings is a much quicker method. Cuttings 
can be struck at almost any period of the year, but it is generally done 
in the spring. The plan usually adopted is to place old plants in a moist 
heat, where they will break into growth and supply plenty of cuttings. 
When the shoots are 3 or 4 inches long take them off, cutting level at a 
joint, and insert them in a sandy mixture of loam and leaf mould in a 
moist heat of 60°, where they will soon root and commence growing, 
when they may be potted singly. Where fine plants and exhibition 
pyramids are required the best time is to strike cuttings about the end of 
July, keeping them growing through the winter. They should be rooted as 
before recommended in heat, then placed in small thumb pots, using the 
following compost :—Three parts good yellow loam, and the additional 
part made of leaf mould, horse and cow manure rubbed through a fine 
sieve, with a good sprinkling of sand to keep the whole porous. Place the 
plants for a few days in heat and moisture, shading them from the sun. 
When established they can be gradually hardened to a temperature of 
55° and grown on, giving them a small shift in the autumn to carry 
them through the winter. Water carefully, and about the middle of 
March they may again be potted, raising the temperature to 60°, with 
sun heat a little higher, and air and shade if required. They will then 
begin to grow freely. It is not always wisdom to overpot them, as' 
sometimes by careless watering the soil may get too wet, and then 
they will not grow satisfactorily. 
When potting use the soil previously recommended, and in favour¬ 
able weather syringe them morning and afternoon at closing time. I 
recommend stopping the leading shoots once or twice during the early 
stages, so as to make them bushy, but this can be regulated by the habit 
of the plant you are treating. A sharp look out must be kept iru 
stopping the side shoots, so as to keep a regular outline of foliage. Care 
should also be taken to keep the plants near the glass and not too- 
crowded. Insects must also be carefully watched for, never letting 
them get a start, but should this occur means must be employed to get 
rid of them. 
The plants will require shifting into larger pots during the early 
part of the summer, but the last potting should be in the middle of 
June or beginning of July, and the last stopping of the shoots seven or 
eight weeks before the plants are required to bloom. If their wants- 
have been attended to well, they will by that time be useful plants, welt 
repaying the cultivator for his trouble. 
The form of house best adapted for the Fuchsia is a span-roof green¬ 
house, where plenty of light and air necessary for their culture can be 
given. Liquid manure can be used with advantage for old plants, but 
it is seldom required for young plants that have had the treatment here 
recommended, except when they become root-bound, when they will be. 
benefited by frequent applications of liquid manure or artificial manure- 
applied as directed by the makers. 
As soon as Fuchsias have flowered they may be placed out of doors 
to have the wood ripe, and remain until the appearance of frost, when 
they should be stored in their winter quarters. The Fuchsia is a very 
accommodating plant, and will keep alive in almost any place safe from 
frost. An old greenhouse or pit where a little heat can be afforded is a. 
very suitable place. They may be kept moderately dry but not too dry, 
or much dead wood will be ihe result, or perhaps the plants will die- 
altogether. 
About February the plants must be pruned into shape two or three- 
joints longer than last year, a process which gradually increases the size- 
of the plants year by year. After pruning the plants may be started in 
gentle heat, according to the time at which they are wanted to flower. 
They will break freely if syringed well, and when the shoots are about 
an inch long the plants may be shaken out of their pots carefully, re¬ 
ducing the ball, retaining all the fibrous roots, but cutting all gross and 
useless roots well back. Pot in the compost previously advised, and in 
most cases in a size less pot, but do not water until the roots begin to 
work freely in the fresh soil, syringe them, however, two or three 
times a day, and keep them in a moist heat. They can be grown in this, 
manner for years. I have seen Fuchsias 12 to 14 feet high and one mass 
of flowers, making a grand display. I venture to say that good trained 
specimens are seldom met with now, even at our flower shows. I think 
the reason the Fuchsia is so neglected is because it grows with almost 
ar.y kind of treatment, and is considered a common plant. At one 
time the Fuchsia stood high, in the estimation of the public, but. 
