June 20 , 1889. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
507 
Firing and Ventilating. —Cold nights render fires still necessary ; it 
is a great mistake to let them out now and have to fi; e hard later on when 
the sun has less power to ripen the fruit. All late Grapes thrive best 
in a high temperature with abundant food both at the roots and in the 
atmosphere. Fires should be employed to maintain a night temperature 
of 65°, and 70° to 75° by day in dull weather. Admit a little air early, 
a little at the top of the house constantly, increasing the ventilation 
with the temperature, allowing an advance to 85° or 90°, at which keep 
it through the day from sun heat, reducing the ventilation with the 
declining sun. Close at 85°, damping the paths then, and again 
before nightfall. It is well to close for a short time and afterwards 
admit a little air, which will prevent a vitiated atmosphere and allow 
the foliage to dry in the morning by the time the sun acts powerfully. 
Late Grapes are generally backward this season, hence the desirability 
of making the most of sun heat and aiding them with artificial warmth. 
Avoid cold draughts or sudden depressions of temperature, as they cause 
rust. 
Regulating the Growths. —Allow all the foliage that can be exposed 
to light to remain, but when the space is fairly covered with leaves keep 
the shoots closely pinched. An excess of foliage is not good ; it is often 
encouraged with a view to root action, but it is elaborated sap that builds 
up the structure of the Vine, the crop of the current year, and the 
wood and buds that give the fruit of the next. The foliage should be 
rather thinner in the case of while Grapes than in that of black, this 
more particularly applies to Muscats. Avoid large reductions of foliage 
at a time, it only tends to cause shanking through the check given the 
roots. Keep the growths tied down from the glass and so prevent 
scorching. Vines extending should be allowed to make as much lateral 
growth as practicable, always bearing in mind that the wood oh which 
fruit is to be borne next season must have full exposure for its foliage, 
as it is the principal leaves which elaborate the sap and transmit the 
assimilated matter that forms the buds at their base. The laterals from 
these having been stopped at the first joint they may be allowed to 
ramble afterwards, subject to their not interfering with the access of 
light and air to the main leaves. 
Cucumbers. —When the night temperature can be kept from falling 
below 65° fire heat may be dispensed with, much being effected by hus¬ 
banding the sun heat and early closing. Continue to examine the 
plants weekly, well thinning the old growths, training young in their 
place, avoiding overcrowding and overcropping as great evils. Afford 
liquid manure copiously twice a week, and surface dressings of lumpy 
loam, supplying ammonia by sprinkling the bed occasionally with fresh 
horse droppings, but be careful not to overdo it, or the foliage will suffer 
irreparable injury. Syringe on clear days in the afternoon only, but 
keep a good moisture in the house all day by damping available 
surfaces as they become dry. Morning syringing is often the cause of 
much injury to the foliage. Shade only to prevent the foliage flagging, 
and be careful to supply it promptly on bright weather succeeding adull 
period. "Ventilate early, but avoid cold draughts, and never admit air in 
such a volume as to lower the temperature. Keep it through the day 
at 75° to 90°, as the force of the solar heat dictates. In bright weather 
"between 80° and 90° should prevail in the house between 8 A.M. and G p.m. 
Close early, so as to increase to 90° or 95°, and admit a little air before 
nightfall, as a safeguard against condensed moisture, increasing it from 
seven to eight o’clock on fine mornings. 
Fits and Frames. —Night coverings will hardly be necessary now, but 
if put on it should not be until the sun is off the frames, and they should 
be withdrawn early in the morning. Ventilate at 75°, and increase with 
the sun’s elevation, keeping through the day at 80° to 90°, closing at 
3 to 4 p.m., then syringe, and after being closed for an hour or two 
admit a little air at the back of the lights to allow of any pent-up mois¬ 
ture escaping. Supply liquid manure occasionally, but keep it from the 
foliage and fruit, and let it be weak and tepid. Remove bad leaves as 
well as exhausted growths, thinning the shoots once a week, stopping 
the growths one or two joints beyond the fruit. When the plants are 
enfeebled by bearing top-dress with lumpy loam, and layer some of the 
younger growths at a joint, from which fresh roots will be emitted and 
strengthen the succeeding growths. 
• 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. —These may still be propagated for flowering 
in small pots during the winter. After they are well rooted pinch the 
shoots once and grow the plants for a time in cold frames, and then 
place them in a sunny position outside. The main stock of plants 
intended for autumn and winter flowering should be placed at once in 
their floweriDg pots. For this purpose the soil may consist of good 
loam, one-seventh of manure, and a little sand, and should be pressed 
down firmly. To insure plenty of flowers during the winter a firm 
sturdy growth is necessary. If the plants have been thoroughly hard¬ 
ened they may be stood outside as they are potted on a moisture-holding 
base, such as a bed of ashes. Each plant should have room to develope 
under full exposure to the sun. Apply water sparingly until the pots 
are filling with roots, when more liberal supplies should be given. The 
summer treatment consists in pinching the shoots, the removal of flower 
trusses as they appear, and decaying leaves. 
Icy-leaved Varieties. —These grown for the same purpose will flower 
much more profusely if they are in the open air throughout the summer 
than if they are kept under glass. It is necessary to pinch their shoots 
and train them round four or five stakes inserted round the sides of the 
pots. If the cuttings have been good to commence with the plants will 
branch freely. Short firm growths are what are needed by the time the 
plants are housed, and they will then not fail to flower profusely. To 
accomplish this the plants must be potted firmly, fully exposed, and 
grown in the compost advised for Zonals. 
French and Fancy Varieties. —Some of these flower so profusely 
that it is difficult to obtain cuttings. In this case side growths that 
would flower, if left, are taken off when they attain a moderate amount 
of solidity, the flowering portion is removed, and the cuttings inserted ia 
small pots. They may be kept under handlights, in a cool structure, or 
in cold, frames where they can be moderately close and shaded from 
the sun. When fully exposed the soil dries rapidly, and the cuttiDgs 
shrivel or become hard, and are therefore a long time in rooting; but if 
kept fresh by the exclusion of much air and light syringings, according- 
to the weather, they will frequently root before it is necessary to water 
the soil in which they are inserted. Plants that have ceased flowering 
should be placed outside in the sun. Do not ripen them prematurely,, 
but gradually diminish the supply of water until the stems are hard andi 
firm, when they may be well pruned back. Cuttings that were inserted) 
in small pots in May and now rooted should be placed in 4-inch pots- 
and grown for a time in a cold frame ; the shoots should be pinched-' 
until the early part of September, and given abundance of air. If the 
summer prove warm and dry they are better stood on a bed of ashes- 
during the months of July and August than kept in frames. 
Calceolarias. —For early plants seed may be sown at once on the- 
surface of fine light soil in a pot or pan. Do not cover the seed, but 
apply water with a fine-rosed can, and cover the pan with a square of 
glass, on which a little damp moss may be laid. The pan should be 
placed in a cold frame and shaded from the sun. When seedlings 
appear gradually expose them to light and air. This must be done care¬ 
fully, and the surface of the soil must not be allowed to become dry. 
Cinerarias. —A pan or box of seed should be sown for yielding 
plants for late flowering. Transplant seedlings that are large enough 
into pans or boxes, and when large enough place them in 3-inch pot?„ 
Plants now in that size may be placed in 5-inch. For these plants add 
to the compost advised for Pelargoniums one-third of leaf soil. Allow 
the plants plenty of room to develop, and do not allow them to be 
weakened by overshading. 
Primulas. —Plants of P. obconica raised from early sown seed may 
be placed in 5-inch pots, and if they are hardy by exposure of air they 
may be stood outside in a shady place, for they cannot endure bright 
sunshine. Smaller plants in boxes and pans may be placed into 3-inch 
pots. Grow these for a time in a cold frame. The earliest Chinese 
Primulas may be placed into 5-inch pots ; later ones now in boxes into- 
3-inch. A little seed may be sown for yielding plants for late flowerings 
These will grow better and flower much more profusely than plants that 
are retained in small pots from seed sown in April. 
Callas.— These may be divided if they need it and planted in well- 
prepared trenches outside. The soil should be well broken up and 
liberally manured. A good watering will be needed after planting.. 
Reduce the balls at the time of planting, for nothing is gained by 
planting them whole. It is better to reduce them now than at lifting 
time. 
Bouvardias .—Prepare well-developed plants by giving abundance of 
air for placing outside in a sunny position. Where planting-out is- 
praetised dig and enrich the soil with leaf mould and manure ready for- 
their reception. Where they are grown in pots they may be placed in, 
their flowering size at once or as they are ready. Young plants raised' 
from roots or cuttings may be grown inside for the present, pinching the 
shoots and repotting as more root room is needed. For young plants 
use a compost of loamf with two-thirds to one of leaf mould, one-seventh; 
of manure, and some sand. The leaf mould may be gradually 
diminished each time they are potted, only using very little in the com¬ 
post when the last shift is given. 
Fuchsias. —Young plants well rooted in 3-inch pots should he placed 
in 5-inch and allowed to flower in that size. If they are not wanted for 
a time pinch the shoots once, and then allow them to flower. They will 
be suitable for furnishing purposes when the earlier rooted plants wili 
have grown tall and have passed their best condition. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
DOUBLING HIVES. 
The word “ doubling ” here has a special, not general, mean¬ 
ing. It is a system of bee-keeping well adapted to our variable- 
climate, but is not carried out as it might be owing to its not being: 
generally known amongst bee-keepers. The system consists of 
dividing a strong hive after the honey season is past, introducing a- 
young queen to a portion of the combs, separating the newly 
created colony from the old ones by a close-fitting dividing board,, 
if rhe hive is a one-storey frame hive. If a storifying one, then it 
should be divided. They should be placed close to each other, and 
wrapped up as one hive. The entrances must be at the extreme 
ends from one another with a division between the two, both 
