June ' 7 , 1689. ] 
527 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
applied to the roots to insure a remunerative crop. This applies to 
Peas. Dwarf and Runner Beans, Cauliflower, and choice vegetables 
generally. It ought to be thoroughly understood, however, that it is 
useless to water vegetables when they are almost matured, with the 
hope of increasing and improving the produce. At present we are 
watering Tea plants that have no signs ot flowering, but we know that 
this moisture will do them much good by the time they flower, as it is 
strengthening the plants now, and this is what is wanted to produce a 
fine crop. 
Late Peas. —Peas are always plentiful in July and August, but 
ftiey are often scarce in September, and still more so in October. This 
is no fault of the Peas, as they will grow and fruit then as freely as at 
present, but it is the fault of the cultivator in not sowing seed at the 
present time. There is too much hurry to get the seed under the soil to 
secure a long succession of any crop. Late Peas may be sown with 
advantage at the present time. The ground for their reception should 
he heavily manured and deeply dug. The drills should be opened to a 
depth of 5 inches, and the seed sown at this distance from the surface. 
After the drills have been opened, and before sowing the seed, water the 
bottom of the drill thoroughly, then sow and cover in before the 
moisture has evaporated; it will then be retained in the soil near 
the seed, and cause it to germinate freely and robustly. Early Peas 
are sometimes sown for late crops, but we never found them so 
useful as the late sorts. 
Kidney Beans. — Very often only one sowing of Runner Beans 
is made. They fruit well in July, August, and part of September, 
but before the season is over all the pods have become too old for 
use, and no new ones are forming. This is the experience of many, 
but it may be remedied by sowing some late. We are as anxious as 
any to have the Kidney Beans early, but we also like them up to the 
last, and we annually sow some rows specially to begin fruiting when 
what may be termed the summer crops are over. If they begin to 
flower by the middle of August or later they invariably bear tender 
young pods until cut off by frost. The first or second week in July is 
a good time to sow these, and as regards the mode no one can do better 
than follow the advice given above for late Peas. 
Broad Beans. —Here, again, we have a crop that is apt to taper off 
too soon in autumn. Some may not care for them very late, but they 
are more acceptable on the table late than they are in the hottest 
weather, and a few dishes in October are always appreciated. We sow 
in the forepart of July to secure these, and they never fail. They 
require strong rich soil to bring them to the greatest perfection. Where 
the first crops are late in podding, if the points are taken out of each 
plant with the finger and thumb it will cause them to fill their pods 
much more rapidly than if allowed to go on growing. 
Lettuces and Endive. —Lettuces are now running to seed before 
they have long gained full size, and unless a rapid succession is kept up 
they will fail to meet a daily demand. Sowing and planting small 
quantities once weekly or every ten days is the only way to keep them 
always good. Those that are kept well watered at the roots are not so 
apt to run as those suffering from drought, and to water part of a large 
quarter will insure a succession. Unless the seed drills are watered 
before sowing the seed now the young plants will not appear in any 
great number or be luxuriant. Plants that are just through the soil 
should also be watered frequently, as no summer Lettuce is good unless 
bulky and crisp. It is too early as yet to sow the main crop of Endive, 
but a pinch of seed should be sown to secure a few dozens of plants 
for use in August or September. Endive culture resembles that of 
Lettuces, and both are so easy to grow that none need fail with either. 
Planting Winter Greens. —Broccoli, Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, 
and all winter greens are now in good condition to plant out in their 
permanent quarters. There may not be vacant spaces to receive them 
all, but efforts should be made to place out the largest of the plants, 
and the smaller ones may be left in the seed beds to be planted as the 
ground becomes vacant. The soil should be well manured and well 
broken before any of them are planted. If a quantity of soot and soil 
is mixed up in some old bucket until it is the consistency of paint, and 
the roots are well dabbled in this before planting, it will prevent 
worms injuring them, and the moisture will stimulate growth. This is 
an old-fashioned plan, but a good one in dry weather. 
Tomatoes. —Some plants under glass that have been fruiting all the 
spring are now nearly exhausted, but cuttings were taken from them 
some time a?o, and one day soon the old plants will be rooted out and 
the cutting ones planted in their place. These will be in fruit before 
August is over, and no matter what the autumn may be we shall have 
plenty of fruit from them until November at least. We do not like to 
be dealing with declining plants as the days shorten, and none but 
young vigorous ones will give the best results then. There are excellent 
prospects of open air Tomatoes being a great success this season. Some 
of our open wall plants are already showing fruit, but everything must 
not be left'to the season, and all should now pay great attention to 
watering and training the plants. Confine every one of them to one 
stem, cut off any over-luxuriant leaves, and never allow them to double 
down or be broken from neglect of tying. Expose the plants fully to the 
sun, and if any of our readers have omitted to plant Tomatoes in the 
open we advise them to do so at once. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Crotons .—Plants of various sizes that have become too tall may 
have their tops removed and rooted. These plants root freely at this 
season of the year, provided they can be kept close in a frame and 
shaded from the sun. A capital place for them is under the shade of 
Melons and Cucumbers, if a handlight or a frame can be provided for 
them. Remove the heads with bold well coloured leaves at the base 
where the wood is not too firm. They can then be rooted without losing 
a single leaf. Good heads may be inserted in 5-inch pots, drained in the 
same manner as if they were rooted and being transferred from smaller 
pots. The soil may consist of good loam, one-seventh of manure and 
sand. Place a little sand in the centre for the base of the cutting to 
rest upon. Heads of variegatus, Chelsoni, and other small foliaged 
varieties should be placed in smaller pots. Water after insertion, and, iff 
practicable, plunge the pots in cocoa-nut fibre refuse to prevent 
evaporation. See that the foliage is free from thrips and other insects 
before the cuttings are inserted. If stock is limited, or quantities of 
small plants are needed in 2 or 3-inch pots for association during the- 
winter with Mosses, Ferns, and other small growing plants, do not throw 
away the plants from which the heads have been removed. Allow them 
to break into growth and make shoots, fully exposed to the sun, and cut¬ 
tings in a short time suitable for the purpose indicated will be produced. 
Bracainas .—Where a constant supply of these is needed in various 
sized pots for decoration, they must have constant attention. Plants 
wintered in 2-inch pots, and placed early in the year into G-inch pots, 
will be in excellent condition for any purpose. If large plants for single 
vases or for elevating above dwarf plants in groups are required a few 
strong growers may be placed into 8-inch pots. Some judgment is 
needed in selecting the plants for this purpose ; it will be found that 
rather tall growing varieties are the most serviceable. Plants of 
D. rutilans that were in 3-inch pots early in the year, and have been 
kept in heat, are nearly 4 feet high in 8-inch pots. The majority are in. 
5 and 6-inch pots, and are from 18 inches to 2 feet high, and are now 
being employed for various purposes. If the plants are not needed for 
some time, keep them cool, and growth will be slow. If any of the 
plants display signs of becoming too large before they can be used, take 
off the heads and strike them in 4-inch pots. They will strike without 
injury to the leaves if plunged in a frame and a little ventilation pro¬ 
vided, giving them in other respects the same treatment advised for 
Crotons. The root portions of the plant must be dried for a few days,, 
and may then be cut up for young plants. Those raised from stems 
during the spring should now be placed into 5-inch pots. Plants of 
D. Goldieana that have become too tall may have the heads removed 
and inserted in 5-inch pots. Be careful to take these where the wood 
is soft, and then they will root quickly if kept close under handlightss- 
in heat without the slightest injury to the leaves. D. gracilis and 
D. Lindeni should be treated in the same way, only these need not be 
placed under handlights. They root better if they are merely plunged 
in a moderately shady position in a warm structure. Keep the stools 
for yielding cuttings, which when long enough should be taken off close 
to where they issue from the old stem, and inserted in small pots. Side 
shoots of D. gracilis make better plants for table decoration than heads, 
on account of their leaves being narrower and having a greater tendency 
to droop. D. Lindeni is excellent for room decoration, in fact the three 
last will stand in good condition in rooms much longer than most varie¬ 
ties, D. rutilans excepted. The forms of D. Cooperi, D. terminalis, 
and others need heavier shade from the sun than D. gracilis and 
D. Lindeni. The latter overshaded fails to produce the bright colour that 
it is capable of doing. 
Nepenthes. — Cuttings inserted as advised some time ago will be- 
rooted and growing freely ; they need careful treatment. The greatest 
difficulty after they reach this stage is to harden them so that they will 
bear full exposure in the house in which they are to be grown. The- 
frame or handlight in which they have been plunged should be slightly 
lifted at first to admit air, which must be gradually increased until the 
light can be removed. As soon as the plants will bear without flagging- 
full exposure they may be placed into larger pots, or transferred into 
7-inch baskets. They do well in fibry loam, charcoal, and sand, but if 
placed in baskets use good fibry peat with a layer of living sphagnum orv 
the surface. 
BEE-KEEPER 
112 - 4 : 
M. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
WINTERING BEES OUTDOORS. 
“ Plenty of stores and protection from wind are prime essen¬ 
tials.” The above is from “ Gleanings ” of June 1st. We gave a 
quotation from a previous number bearing upon the same subject, 
in words and sentiment so like our own that we rather take a 
pleasure in giving further quotations. The writer says, “We 
want some sort of a wind break, such as a good groove of timber, or 
high hills, or a high board fence.’’ Just what we recommended a 
few months ago. “ It is hard on the bees to have a strong wind 
blowing into the hives in cold weather.” Just one of the reasons 
why we have advocated a narrow doorway, and denounced the 
foolish practice of giving hives wide doorways. Then, again, he 
says, “ But the most essential of all things is an abundance of 
something good to eat. Good honey is good enough if there is 
