12 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARREXER. 
[ January 2,1890. 
loam, 5Ir. Coombe’s method of forcing them in cocoa-nut fibre refuse is 
■very satisfactory, but all gardens have not the means or convenience for 
such a practice as Ashton Court, In a great number of places cocoa-nut 
fibre is considered too expensive. If the majority of gardeners had the 
means and conveniences of the' minority foreign produce would not 
glut the njarkets to such an extent as it does at present.—A. G. F., 
WMtstone. 
BOUVARDIAS. 
When well and properly grown Bouvardias will continue to 
yield a succession of their flowers over a period of several months. 
Unfortunately they are not so well grown in private gardens 
as they deserve to be, though in market establishments they are 
well treated with the best results. The principle, however, upon 
which these are grown to have the majority of the flower trusses 
open at one time is not exactly the one that should be followed 
when a lengthened succession is required. 
If the plants are dried rapidly death in many cases will result. 
Their wood is soft, and this must be hardened and ripened, then 
they can be dried without fear. They are similar in this respect to 
Fuchsias, and ripening their wood and resting period should be 
much the same as generally accorded, the principal difference being 
the temperature in which the two are kept while at rest. That for 
the Bouvardia should not be lower than 45°. Very few would 
think of drying the Fuchsia while its wood was green and soft, but 
quickly grown Bouvardias have been given this treatment with the 
results pointed out. 
Bouvardias are propagated by cuttings and portions of root, and 
when the object is to produce good specimens in one season without 
resorting to express methods of culture and excessive feeding it is 
important to make an early start. Those I have described would 
have a much more limited rest than they would be allowed the 
following season. After the wood is thoroughly hard keep the soil 
dry for two or three weeks, and then prune back to within 3 inches 
of the base ; turn the plants out of their pots, shake the whole of 
the soil from their roots, and remove a few of the strongest from 
each plant. The stock should then be placed into 3-inch pots, and 
transferred to a vinery or Peach house. Plunge the pots in boxes 
about 6 inches deep in cocoa-nut fibre refuse, leaves, or any other 
material, covering the surface of the soil to prevent evaporation. 
If the plunging material is kept moist and the plants gently 
syringed daily they will need no water at the roots until they start 
into growth. The boxes can be placed upon the pipes. Start 
the plants in any structure where the temperature does not fall 
below 50° at night, and is gradually increased. A gentle hotbed is a 
capital place for them. The amateur who has limited accommoda¬ 
tion in this respect can give his plants a more lengthened period of 
rest, and start them in the same way as he does Fuchsias, or in 
a slight hotbed that may be made for raising seeds. Any plants 
raised in this way require two seasons instead of one in which to 
produce useful flowering plants. 
When once a stock has been obtained it is a good plan to adopt 
a two-years system of raising plants. This is decidedly better even 
when they are required for decoration in pots or yielding flowers 
in succession for cutting than depending upon either cuttings of 
young wood or roots every season. To carry out this plan strong 
roots according to the quantity required should be taken from 
strong old plants started into growth in February. Cut these into 
lengths of about half an inch and strew them on the surface of 
boxes nearly filled with soil composed of equal portions of leaf 
mould and loam; scatter a little sand amongst the portions of 
root and cover them about a quarter of an inch deep with 
fine sandy soil. Place the boxes in an intermediate temperature, 
when shoots will soon appear above the soil. Encourage the 
young plants to grow, and gradually harden by the end of June, 
so that they can be stood outside fully exposed to the sun. The 
boxes will be one mass of growths. In September place the plants 
in a cool house and gradually allow them to rest, then keep them 
dry. When the time arrives for starting them into growth the 
soil should be shaken from their roots, and each plant placed singly 
into 2 and 3-inch pots. They should be pruned to good “eyes” 
2 inches above the soil. The cultivator in possession of plants of 
this nature is a long way in advance of those who rely upon raising 
them either from roots or cuttings in spring. 
Cuttings of young shoots root readily enough in the propagating 
frame in brisk heat. The shoots selected must be soft, or they are 
a long time forming roots. Cuttings 2 inches long will do ; it is 
not important whether they are cut close to a joint or not, but 
this we usually do, and insert them with the two lower leaves 
attached. One joint, however, should be left on the plants from 
which cuttings are taken, when they will soon “ break ” again, and 
be none the worse for the removal of the cuttings. When the 
cuttings are rooted place them singly into small pots at once, and 
directly signs of growth are visible the point should be removed. 
Some cultivators prefer plants raised from cuttings of young wood 
before those raised from roots, because they are not so prolific in 
throwing up from the base. A more shapely plant can perhaps he 
produced by the former ; but in spite of this, we prefer for the 
object we have in view those raised from portions of roots. A 
strong shoot or two from the hase of these by the time they are 
placed into 5-inch pots is the making of good plants the first 
season. 
Whether the plants are raised from cuttings of young wood or 
roots or are cut-backs, they need the same treatment after they 
are started into growth. Those started and raised early should 
be kept in a temperature that does not fall below G0°, and as they 
advance in growth the temperature may be gradually lowered until 
they can be grown in cool houses or cold frames. From the first 
attention is needed in pinching, and the point of the shoot should 
be removed after each pair of leaves. This induces the formation 
of two shoots, which, when they reach the same stage, are again 
pinched. This practice is continued until the end of June. If 
they are to be kept under glass the whole of the season it may be 
continued until the middle or third week of the following month. 
When suckers spring from the base they are pinched at the first 
pair of good leaves they make, and then are treated the same as 
the remainder. 
The question arises at this stage whether they are to be planted 
out or kept in pots. At one time the luxuriant growth that 
they made tempted the recommendation of the former method. 
They do very well, and flower well in some seasons ; but the strong 
growth is misleading, and however carefully they are lifted they 
are seriously checked. We strongly advise keeping them in pots 
and plunging in an open sunny position until September. When 
the nights have a tendency to be cold the plants should he placed 
in a light airy structure at first. 
Bouvardias should be repotted from time to time as they 
need more root room, giving them their last shift when plunged 
outside. If raised from cuttings early they may be placed in 30’s— 
4^-inch—in May, and those from roots into 5-inch, which are large 
enough for the first season, while cut-back or two-year-old speci¬ 
mens raised in boxes may have 6-inch to 8-inch, or even larger pots. 
When they are large enough at starting time for 5-inch pots one 
other shift only is given—namely, into 8-inch. In fact, all plants 
that are cut back, except very small examples, are only shifted 
once to save labour. 
The pots must be carefully drained, and the soil should only be 
moderately firm at first, and it may consist of the loam used for 
Cucumhers and Melons with the addition of about half leaf mould 
and sand. Failing this some that has been stacked with the same 
additions is excellent. At the final potting one-third leaf mould 
only need be used, and the soil may be pressed firmer. Take care 
that they do not become root-bound while in small pots, for this 
has a tendency to check and harden their wood prematurely and 
tells against full development of the growth. 
Supply water carefully after the plants are started, and again 
after they are repotted. Once the soil is well filled with roots 
liberal supplies should be given them. From the time they are 
started until they have ceased flowering the soil should never be 
allowed to become dust dry. If this takes place their fine roots are 
scorched. When the pots in which they are to flower are filled 
with roots weak soot water in a clear state may be given every 
time water is needed, and then this and liquid made from cow dung- 
alternately. If the latter is not at hand artificials once a fortnight 
may be applied to the surface of the soil. The syringe from the 
first may be used daily or twice a day, according to the weather, 
and continued for a time after the plants are housed and accus¬ 
tomed to the change. 
The treatment after they are housed is simple. They need 
plenty of light and air at first; after a few weeks -the latter can be 
dispensed -with, and a temperature of 55° to 60° maintained accord¬ 
ing to the weather. Not only will terminal trusses be produced, 
but the strong shoots that extended from the time pinching ceased 
will break again into growth and continue to yield serviceable 
flowers. This cannot be expected from plants that are grown 
rapidly and the wood is practically soft at flowering time. Plants 
such as I have described can, after they cease flowering, be 
gradually dried and kept as dry as it is wise to keep Fuchsias with¬ 
out the slightest fear of losing them. 
The following are amongst the most useful :—Doubles.—Alfred 
Neuner, white ; President Garfield, blush or pink ; Hogarth fl.-pl., 
scarlet. Singles.—Scarlet, President Cleveland, the brightest of all; 
Hogarth, Dazzler, Elegans, Flavescens, yellow ; longiflora flammea, 
blush rose ; Priory Park Beauty, pink; Queen of Roses, bright pink. 
Single whites.—Humboldti, corymbiflora, Vreelandi, The Bride, 
not quite pure white ; jasminiflora, true ; and alba elegantissima. 
