16 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 2, 1800 
friends would be disposed to think there is.— Jno. Short, Hummers- 
knott, Darlington. 
[The plants appear to he in most vigorous health, and we can 
certainly see no sign of the mite. The largest leaf blade is 18 inches 
long by inches broad, the leafstalk 13 inches long. The strongest 
flower scape is 30 inches long, bearing flve flowers. All the leaves are of 
great substance and a fine deep green colour. Flowers of “a cross 
between Masters! and Candida ” were sent, but they were too withered 
to determine their characters ; the corona seemed to be much reduced.] 
THE BLACK MAZZARD CHERRY TREE. 
The Wild English Cherry tree is a frequent object in the landscapes 
of the older settled portions of the Middle Atlantic States, and, especially 
when in bloom, it presents a most dignified and attractive appearance. 
We know a tree about 50 feet in height, and of massive form. In bloom 
it is literally a sheet of white. Botanists call this species of Cherry 
Cerasus Avium, or, following Linnmus, Prunus Avium ; horticulturally it 
is known as the Mazzard. There are two varieties of it, bearing respec¬ 
tively black and dark red fruit; the black variety is the one most one 
most disseminated. The fruit, which is bitter before maturity, retains 
but little of this taste when ripe, hut becomes sweet and pleasant, and 
is eaten greedily by the birds. It has been extensively used in making 
bounce, or Cherry brandy, and the seeds are planted by nurserymen, 
as the young trees are the favourite stocks on which to bud and graft 
the choice cultivated varieties of Cherries. This species of Cherries and 
its varieties are called Merisier by the French. Loudon, in his “ Encylo- 
pedia of Gardening,’’ says : “ The Merisiers are like the wild Cherries of 
the woods. The fruit is small, with little flesh, which contains, even in 
its fullest maturity, enough of bitterness to justify the name of Merise ; 
formed, as it is said to be, from the words amere and cerise. From this 
appellation has probably arisen that of Merries, which is given to wild 
Cherries in many parts of England.” The word mazzard has un¬ 
doubtedly the same origin, “Were Cherry trees scarce, and with much 
difficulty propagated,” remarks Hanbury, “ every man, though possessed 
of a single one only, would look upon it as a treasure. For besides the 
charming appearance these trees have, when besnowed, as it were, all 
over with bloom in the spring, can any tree in the vegetable tribe be 
conceived more beautiful, striking, and grand than a well grown and 
healthy Cherry tree, at that period when the fruit is ripe ?” Alfred 
Smee, the author of “ My Garden,” says, in that work, in mentioning 
fruit trees that are used as forest trees in England :—“ The Wild Cherry 
tree is extremely beautiful when covered with its white flowers, and in 
autumn its scarlet leaves render it again very attractive.” The last 
named characteristic is also noticed by French writers, who put it for¬ 
ward as one of the attractions of the tree. Our own writers have not so 
particularly recognised this feature, though no doubt deserving, as our 
more highly coloured Maples, and Liquidambars, and other trees are 
still brighter in their autumn tints. 
Wilson, in his “ Eural Cyclopfedia,” says the fruit of this Cherry is 
“ at present one of the most popular in the London market.” It used to 
be sent to market from this region, but for the last twenty years but 
little has been seen of it. The author last named says that three sub¬ 
varieties of the species are cultivated in certain counties of England, 
under the names of the Bud, the Small Black, and the Honey ; and the 
fruit of the last of these is “ very small, pale red, and remarkably sweet, 
and is largely used for making Cherry wine.” The black variety has 
always been the popular one in this country.—( Vtck’s Magazine^ 
SALVIA SPLENDENS. 
This, among the family of the Sages, is well worthy of the title of 
aplendid. Eivals in the same family group it may have in summer 
and autumn, but in the earlier winter months it is unmatched. Con¬ 
trasted at this season even with the loveliest and the gayest of other 
flowers, it constitutes one of the most dazzling ornaments of the green¬ 
house or conservatory. Even where there is nothing else very striking 
beside it, its own elegant foliage sets off to advantage its rich racemes 
of scarlet flowers. This interest is prolonged from the calyx being of 
the same colour as the corolla, as it is first expanded, and remains for 
some time after the corolla has dropped. 
Salvia splendens, as well as most of our greenhouse and bedding-out 
species, is a native of Mexico. The term Salvia is derived from salvus 
(safe), in allusion to the beneficial character of many of the species in 
a medicinal and culinary point of view. Even now, many who are not 
yet decided epicures may be looking forward to the festive period, and 
thinking of partaking along with friends of those good things in ^e 
preparation of which even the common Sage is brought into abundant 
requisition. At the present time the plants, if safely lodged in the 
greenhouse and conservatory, should not be exposed to keen draughts 
of air if it is wished to preserve the bloom as long as possible. In 
watering, let the liquid be a little warmer than the air of the house, 
and if coloured with guano, superphosphate of lime, &c., they will like 
it all the better. If it is not convenient to have manure water, much 
the same object will be gained by top-dressing with old dried cow or 
sheep dung. Watering over it will enrich the compost, and, acting also 
as a mulching, less watering will be necessary, which is something, as if 
the pots are crammed with roots, and the weather should be fine, they 
will drink like any topers. They will bloom well either in small or 
large pots, though for striking effect large plants in large pots are the 
most desirable. “All very well!” say some dozen friends of ours at 
once, “ I should like to have half a dozen of these fine large plants in 
my greenhouse now, they would look so well among Chrysanthemums 
and opening Camellias, &c. ; and I should like a few small plants to 
enliven my window, but then I have always been deterred from grow¬ 
ing them from the great space they would occupy when they have 
flowered, or before they had commenced to bloom, and then numbers of 
elever people have dunned into my ears to beware of them as I would 
shun the plague, as a few plants would soon fill a whole house with red 
spiders, and then farewell to all my other favourites, so far as their 
healthy looks are concerned.” Now, even in these days of cheap glass 
we are well aware that from various causes the husbanding of space 
under glass is as much demanded as ever. But, even in this respect, 
our friends the Salvias are wonderfully accommodating. They are but 
little subject to the spider when sturdily, not daintily, reared. In any 
circumstances they are less troubled with it now than during the dog 
days. A slight syringe over the leaves when in bloom—and in cold 
weather, when a little heat is necessary, the brushing over the pipes or 
flue, when not very hot, with flowers of sulphur and water—will be next 
to effectual in keeping the intruder away. So much for present manage¬ 
ment. 
Now, as to preparing for another year. As soon as the plants have 
done flowering, give away, or transfer them all save one to the rubbish 
heap; place the one saved in any out-of-the-way corner where a stray 
ray of light may reach it, and where frost cannot visit it—under the 
stage will answer well enough. There the leaves will soon drop, but 
never mind, though, if a few small ones|remained on the points of the shoots, 
just to keep the sap in motion, it would be as well; yet, if you manage 
to keep the stems alive it is a matter of no great consequence, as from 
them plenty of young shoots will break in March or April, and if there 
are few or no leaves on them during the remainder of the winter you will 
not be troubled with nightmare about the red spider, as the stems will 
be too tough food for them. In the end of March, or the beginning of 
April, take off rather more short stubby shoots than you will want for 
plants, as some may fail; cut them across below a joint, insert them 
in cutting pots half filled with drainage, the other half with light sandy 
soil, with the exception of half an inch at the top, which is to consist 
of sand alone. If you have nothing but a greenhouse, the cuttings 
should be placed under a bellglass, or if inserted in a small pot, and 
that again placed at the bottom of a larger one and a square of glass 
placed over its mouth, it will answer admirably. This is to prevent the 
juices of the cutting being evaporated, and, farther to effect this, 
shading must be resorted to in bright weather. The number and size 
of the leaves to be retained must depend upon the means you possess 
of preventing the transpiration of the juices of the cuttings. They 
may thus be struck in a window or greenhouse, but a Cucumber box is 
the very place for them, and if there you can give them a shady warm 
corner, and the bellglass, or the square of glass in addition, you will 
be surprised to find how soon your cuttings will be changed into rooted 
plants. 
If you have nothing but the greenhouse and a cold pit, shift the 
plants first into 3-inch pots, and then successively into 6 and 12-inch 
pots, setting them as soon as possible in the pit, as there you may keep 
them close for a time to encourage rooting after each shifting. But if 
you can command a little bottom heat, such as the side of a Cucumber 
box, shift at once into 6-inch pots, and then again into 12’s. In either 
case set them out of doors by the middle or end of June, either upon 
coal ashes or plunging the pot in a border with a tile at the bottom of 
the pots to prevent worms entering, and to prevent the roots going out, 
shade in sunshine when first turned out, stop every shoot to make the 
plants stubby and bushy until the middle of July, water with weak 
liquid manure and clear water alternately ; frequently after a rainy day 
syringe the whole of the foliage well with a weak, clear solution of soot 
and water ; provide them with a temporary shelter by means of mats or 
waterproofed calico by the middle of September to guard against heavy 
rains, storms, and frosts, and set them in the house by the end of 
October, or rather, if convenient, by the middle of the month, and the 
blaze of scarlet in November will well repay all your efforts. Many 
with a keen relish for floral loveliness cannot afford to get costly plants, 
and this is just one of the things for them, as the cost will almost 
entirely consist in their time and labour. For getting fine little plants 
for the window, it will be time enough to strike the cuttings in June. 
Three things in growing these must be attended to. Syringe the 
plants frequently, water liberally, and prevent frost ever affecting the 
foliage. Equal portions of loam and peat will suit them well; a little 
dung added to the last shifting will be advantageous.—E. 
THE ADVANTAGES OF FIRM SOIL. 
The advantage of firm soil is not sufficiently recognised, but it is 
one of the greatest aids to successful culture with which I am ac¬ 
quainted. The benefits are confined to no class of plants, but apply to 
kitchen garden crops, plants in pots. Vine and fruit tree borders of 
every description. Many, however, do not try to make the soil firm. 
In potting it is not always pushed or rammed down firm. It is gene¬ 
rally shaken about the roots and pressed with the fingers and thumbs, 
but this is not always sufficient. Indeed, I have known some in potting 
to leave the soil loose that the “ roots might penetrate it freely,” and 
they might do so by rambling through it and becoming long and fibre¬ 
less, but it is close matted fibry roots that are the most satisfactory, and 
