44 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
January 16, 1390. : 
and tlie rest is pretty sure to follow. Food may be given with benefit, 
the knife being employed with certainty either in pruning or in thinning 
out extra growths, and plenty of good blooms arrive in due time. But with 
gross-growing Roses, how is this condition to he brought about ? I have 
seen transplanting, or rather, to speak more correctly, lifting and 
replanting tried, but with very bad results. And no wonder ; the plants 
to be operated on have a strong, unripened growth, drawing, doubtless, a 
very inferior class of food through their corpulent root members. But, 
still, it is a food. Up come the plants root and branch, and our watery 
fed friends very soon find themselves absolutely starved, for the roots 
are of a class which do not quickly adapt themselves to changed circum¬ 
stances, and the final result may be shortly stated as a lot of cut-back 
stumps, with a few weakly growths which have no power to react on 
the poor roots, and the Roses are lost and transplanting condemned. 
Something of the same kind happens with the weakly plant, though in 
this case the reason would be for want of roots to make anything of. 
Transplanting Roses to be beneficial must be a settled method of 
culture, so that the roots may be found in numbers radiating from the 
rootstock, and if a condition of grossness appear then the check the 
plant receives will be of a short-lived nature, not so lengthened as to stop 
supplies, as many of the roots will resume activity at once, but in a less 
lively form, and the result in spring will be a sturdier, firmer growth, 
perhaps not much less strong than in the previous season, but certainly 
more consolidated and productive of better bloom. 
What, then, ought to be done with bushes which have been left for 
years in the same place, and which have become so unsatisfactory as to 
call for prompt measures to secure a free-flowering habit ? I should say 
let the plants remain, but cut the roots ; and here it is necessary to 
explain that unless “ cutting the roots ” is undertaken in a judicious 
manner the results may be as disastrous as lifting and replanting would 
have been. If the plants have been from three to five years in the same 
spot, then in most cases it would be perfectly safe to dig narrow trenches 
round the plants, cutting every root in the process, and that with the 
best results ; but should the plants have been left for many years, and 
increasing in grossness, then such a drastic measure would defeat the 
purpose in view, and most probably death would be the result. In 
this case the common sense method would be to inspect the domestic 
arrangements with caution, and by cutting clean off from the eulinary 
department the one half of the roots the plant itself would be kept in 
health until those so cut had formed a foraging company, when the 
improved class of food would be apparent the first season ; then the 
following year complete the process by cutting off the half left the 
previous season, and it would not be amiss perhaps to take a look at the 
half cut at that time, and if any young roots should be found exhibiting a 
disposition to ramble they also may be cut. In order to secure the very 
best results^ from the above treatment a good dressing of loam or other 
good material should be applied close to the cut portion, or if plenty of 
fresh soil can be had then fill up the trench entirely with the new, 
raising any of the smaller roots, and laying them in this ; but even where 
there is no soil to add, the mere cutting of the roots and turning over 
and breaking up the soil vrill be found of very great benefit. If dung is 
to be used let it be placed as a mulching above the roots, and that 
portion where the young roots may be expected to make growth. In 
the case of very thick-rooted plants it will be advisable to prune to 
a good plump bud for the first year. Afterwards all ugly growths 
may be cut level with the ground to the advantage of the plants. It 
may be remarked that own-root Roses are more apt to require root- 
pruning than those budded on the Manetti, and it is equally to be noted 
that these remarks do not apply to any other garden Rose, which need 
not on that account be altogether neglected.—B. 
Haedy Rosks. 
The late severe frosts have been a fair test of the hardiness of some 
sorts of Roses over others. It has never been in my power to cut fair 
blooms from standards unprotected in the month of January before. 
Out of about fifty varieties on the 5th 1 cut Gdn^ral Jacqueminot (quite 
Aiu Wood, Gloire de Dijon, Souvenir de la Malmaison, 
Alba Rosea, and a dark crimson which I am unable to name. This I 
have submitted to many judges at shows and to Rose growers (Smith’s 
of orcester among others), with the result of seldom, if ever, getting 
two alike m deciding its name. The name I had with it was “ Prince 
Imperial, but I find no such name in catalogues. Out of about half a 
dozen dark Roses this I consider my best. In summer it is much darker, 
and of a rich velvety shade. I should be glad of any information 
respecting it.—J. Hiam. 
Fragrant Roses. 
Soil has an influence even on the fragranoe or otherwise of Rose 
but climate seems to exert the greatest influence on perfume. Whe 
the atmosphere is dry flowers have little or no fragrance. A Rose whic 
.at miciJay would be pronounced scentless, is in the evening, or in tl 
extremely fragrant. Moisture seen 
^.ential to a fulness of perfume. Blooms set up in damp moss ai 
more fragrant than others in water in cups on a bare green stand or 
baize covered table. A bed or border of a dozen or any number < 
proportion to the per-centage of varietii 
having that characteristic. It is vain expecting perfume in Roses thi 
wbrf^iw^ indiscriminately, trusting to the sentiment of enthusiast 
Roses, expect the air to be for ever afterwards laden wit 
Pw ^planting a select hundred may find that the very thin 
they require is lacking, and for cutting purposes there is no question c 
a fragrant Rose being most esteemed. Some who understand Roses for 
something more than e.xhibitions, and for disphay in gardens, plant 
largely of the ignored Cabbage Rose, and other old and esteemed 
favourites, for the sole purpose of cutting. They go further, and plant 
by the dozen or hundred those that have the desired characteristics of 
beauty with floriferousness and scent. These .are, or should be, termed 
garden Roses—showy and sweet. To adhere strictly to that would, 
however, exclude some of the very best for decorative purposes. Those 
that require scented Roses must plant them, and some of those that are 
good alike as garden and drawing room are the following :— 
Of Hybrid Perpetuals few have the brilliancy of Alfred Colomb, 
c.armine crimson, which may not be always as full scented as desired, 
yet it is a fine masser, very showy. Charles Lefebvre in mass is a 
dazzling crimson scarlet, rich and velvety, and mostly fragrant. Earl 
of DuSerin is an early, continuous, and late bloomer, brilliant velvety 
crimson, and full scented. Harrison Weir, velvety crimson, enlivened 
w.th scarlet, and full scented even in autumn. Lady Helen Stewart, 
crimson scarlet, commencing with the earliest and continuing with the 
latest, an exceedingly fine Rose, and highly perfumed. Mrs. John Laing, 
light pink, very profuse, continuous and late bloomer. Mrs. Jowitt, 
crimson shaded lake, generally, but not always, very fragrant. Mar- 
chioness of Exeter, rose, flushed cherry red. Madame Ferdintind Jamin 
(American Beauty), rosy carmine, as good as sweet. La France, satiny 
pink with rosy centre, is mostly sweet. R. C. Sutton, deep rose, reverse 
of petals white, very free, and one of the sweetest Roses extant. Countess 
of Pembroke, satiny rose, usually fragrant. Sir Rowland Hill, ruby 
claret, shaded maroon. Duchess of Albany, deep pink, of the La France 
type, are novelties of great merit, and very sweetly scented. Those are 
all good growers, making effective beds or groups as dwarfs, either 
worked or on own roots. Others that may be noted as generally good 
and sweet are Beauty of Waltham, cherry crimson, hardy and free ; 
Abel Grand, silvery rose, early and free ; Senateur Vaisse, crimson, an 
old favourite ; The Puritan, pale yellow, changing to white; Madame 
Gabriel Luizet, satiny rose ; Mr. James Brownlow, bright carmine. The 
last, with Marchioness of Lome, are new ; the last is rose shaded car¬ 
mine, both promising to be good garden Roses. Caroline d’Arden is 
also new, soft rose, and a very profuse bloomer. Beauty of Beeston 
is a dwarf Charles Lefebvre, and more open, having the same brilliant 
velvety crimiou colour, and is in strong contrast to Bessie Johnson, 
blush-white. Catherine Bell, rose, free flowering and of very free 
growth, almost, if not quite, climbing, which class cannot endure hard 
pruning, being best treated as pillar Roses. Madame Ddsir, salmon 
rose, rather small ; Madame Wilson, rose, free flowering; Madame 
Montel, delic.ate rose ; Heinrich Schulteis, rose pink ; Miss Hassard, 
pinkish flesh; and Miss Poole, silvery rose, shall close my list of 
Hydrid Perpetual Roses with scent, with Madame Eugene Appert, 
rosy pink. 
As Hybrid Perpetuals are cveryBody’s Roses from their being per¬ 
fectly hardy, we may mention others of the same class, which, if not 
scented, are nevertheless first-class for buttonholes—viz.. Emperor, very 
dark, i.e., black ; Empress, white, pink centre ; and Brilliant, scarlet 
crimson. Roses that are worth growing in quantity are Charles Lamb, 
bright red ; Anna Alexieff, rose pink ; Glory of Waltham, crimson ; 
Brightness of Cheshunt, vivid brick red ; Charles Dickens, rose ; and 
Garden Favourite, pink. Ella Gordon, bright cherry ; and Gloire 
Lyonnaise, chrome yellow, edged silver-white (and fragrant into the 
bargain), are both large. 
To return to odoriferous Roses we may mention the somewhat un¬ 
common crimson Perpetual, or Rose du Roi ; Damask, light crimson, 
very fragrant; and of the Perpetual Moss Soupert et Hotting Rose is 
sweet. Of this class Sirs. W. Paul is one of the best, and Perpetual 
White Moss indispensable, though Blanche Moreau, pure white, is 
superb. Those all require close pruning and liberal treatment. Of the 
He de Bourbons the only one of note for scent is Queen of the Bourbons, 
fawn. 
Of the Tea-scented, which, however, are not hardy, but are best 
grown outdoors against walls with south or south-west aspects, Comtesse 
de Hadaillac, coppery orange, salmon centre ; Madame Etienne, rosy, 
changing to pale rose ; Dulce Bella, coppery rose ; Viscountess Folkestone, 
cream pink, salmon centre ; Haney Lee, satin rose ; Michael Saunders, 
bronzy pink ; and Viscountess Falmouth, pinkish rose, for low walls, 
adding W. F, Bennett for affording the finest of all red buds for cutting. 
The last five are Hybrid Teas, and to those may be added The Puritan, 
already named in the Hybrid Perpetuals. For high walls or buildings 
Mardchal Hiel must head the list. To see this Rose at all perfect it 
requires to be grown under glass, but there is no dispute about Waltham 
Climber Ho. 2, red, and one of the sweetest Roses in existence ; and of 
Hoisette Celine Forestier, rich yellow ; .and Jaune Despiez. Ho Rose 
whatever is so satisfactory against a wall as Gloire de Dijon. Some say 
it is sweet, and others fail to be struck by its fragrance. Then there is 
the Banksian Fortuniana, white, white and yellow, cream and yellow, 
which is passed by Jaune S6rin, bright yellow. These require a south 
■wall, and flower early. They require long pruning, as in fact do all the 
climbing Roses, particularly Musk, which have the flowers produced in 
large clusters late in summer, and when the atmosphere is moist are 
most distinguished by their musk-like fragrance. A wall with a south 
or south-west aspect is necessary. Berberifolia Hardi has single flowers, 
yellow, with maroon spots, and is of dwarf habit. Fringed, pink, semi¬ 
double, Princesse de Hjissau, cream, changing to white, and Rivers’ 
Musk, creamy white, and of moderate growth. 
For covering wirework in the open, Ruga, flesh; and Splendens, 
