96 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Jannaiy SO, 1S9C 
■very carefully with some trees if he cannot on all, for we believe he has 
a few thousands to attend to. It consists in the prosaic work of pruning 
the trees again, cutting off the end of every shortened shoot or snag, 
young or old, that can be removed with a knife, and taking particular 
care that the nests full of eggs are burned. It is not very likely the 
mites of caterpillars that may hatch from eggs, which may perchance 
fall to the ground, could ascend the trees, but when risks can be avoided 
it is better to avoid them. The eggs will not fall one of their positions 
during the pruning, but the severed nests may fall accidentally. 
Trees pruned again at once as suggested, and further washed with 
a petroleum, arsenical, or other solution that may be hoped to spoil 
the eggs on the buds and branches, ought to be comparatively free from 
caterpillars in the spring; for disposing of the foe that may emerge 
when the blossoms are expanding and young leaves unfolding we 
know of nothing safer to use than a solution of hellebore. 
MOSS OX LAWN. 
Your correspondent “ G. B.” will derive much good by treating his 
lawn as you advise (page 78) for the destruction of moss, but it may 
only be temporary, and if his soil is of a c'ayey nature, draining of 
itself will perhaps not accomplish the desired end—at least we have not 
found it so. The fact is, lawns are necessarily subjected to most 
irrational treatment. They have often to be rolled and mown when 
very wet, and as a consequence the soil becomes puddled, and the pores 
stopped, thus preventing the water percolating through to the drains. 
We well drained our lawn six years ago—2-inch pipes were laid into a 
.S-inch main, the former 2 feet C inches deep and 6 yards apart, the latter 
.S feet deep, and the drains were filled to within 1 foot of the surface 
with rough ballast. We can, however, and have this winter, raked off 
moss by the cart-load. 
The best way to kill moss on lawns is to pare up the turf and dig, or, 
better still, bastard trench the ground, working in at the same time a 
quantity of gritty matter if the soil is of a heavy nature. As soon as 
the weather has sufficiently fined down che surface, and it is sufficiently 
dry, the same turf can be relaid however mossy it may be, for it will 
sure to disappear the first season, and the finer grasses will abound. We 
did part of our lawn after this manner four years ago, and there are now 
no signs of moss. The growth is fully a month earlier, and the yield of 
grass double that of the part not so treated. 
Young gardeners should take note of this, for it undoubtedly proves 
that earliness and fertility do not always depend upon geographical 
position and unlimited manure, but on the healthy mechanical condition 
of the soil. Mossy lawns treated as above can be made much firmer 
with less rolling—a circumstance which lawn-tennis players will ap¬ 
preciate.—J. H. W., Leicester. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Improving Orchard Trees. — Although comparatively young 
trees, or those that have not long since arrived at a good bearing state, 
are likely to prove most profitable in the end, especially if the selection 
of varieties is a judicious one, it does not follow the older orchards will 
not pay for any further attention ; on the contrary quite the reverse 
holds good, large old trees of Blenheim Pippin, Warner’s King, Beauty 
of Kent, Reinette de Canada, Tower of Glammis, and others that might 
be named not unfrequently producing really valuable crops. In any 
case the larger and more perfect the fruit the more valuable is the crop, 
even if only devoted to cider making; therefore freely thin out the 
branches in all instances where they are much interlaced, the aim being 
to admit as much light and air to those reserved as possible, even if this 
does necessitate the removal of two or three large faggots of wood from 
a single tree. Not unfrequently orchard trees have overgrown each 
other, and the more worthless of them ought therefore to be cut clean 
out, or all should have the straggling mf.in branches well shortened 
back. In after years a little timely thinning will obviate the necessity 
of this wholesale pruning, and an improvement will soon be manifested 
in both the quality and weight of the crops borne by trees thus well 
attended to. 
Stunted and Mossy Trees. —In low-lying positions and clayey 
subsoils the trees of Apples especially are liable to become stunted 
and covered with lichen and moss. Improving or renovating the 
system of drainage will sometimes do much towards recovering the 
trees, but it is not an infallible remedy, and on the other hand may 
easily be overdone, too little moisture left in the ground being almost as 
bad as having too much at certain parts of the year. A deep ll-inch 
pipe drain in the middle of every second clear space between the trees 
ought to be sufficient, and if it is seen the old drains are choked by tree 
roots it will be found cheaper and better to lay quite new drains rather 
than search out and restore the older ones. Forest trees, notably Elms, 
are a great nuisance near an orchard or garden, their roots penetrating 
to a great distance, and soon choke up any drains they fin<l their way 
into. The good old plan of well scrubbing the stems of Apple trees 
with a stiff brush or broom and rather strong brine is yet the best for 
temporarily removing moss and lichens, and thoroughly coating the 
affected portions with lime or strong limewash also answers well, but. 
neither aie thorough cures unless superfiuous moisture is drained off. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Forced in Pots. —Afford copious supplies of tepid 
liquid manure to Vines in pots. Thin the bunches somewhat freely, so 
as to induce large berries, not, however, making the bunches loose, 
though that is better than small-berried clusters. The temperature 
should be maintained at G5° at night, falling to (10° on cold mornings,, 
(15° to 70° by day, admitting air at 7.5°, increasing the temperature with 
the sun heat to 80° or 8.5°, closing the house at 80°, with a prospect of an 
advance to 85° or 90°, at the same time damping the house. Damping- 
is also necessary in the early part of the day. Great care is necessary in 
ventilating. During sharp weather admit air moderately, fo as not to 
reduce the temperature much, but to prevent its rising suddenly. 
Earliest Forced Houses. —The earliest Vines require careful attention 
now. Remove all loose and duplicate bunches, thinning the berries as 
soon as they are welt formed. If there are no fermenting materials in 
the house, charge the evaporation troughs with liquid manure, but not 
urine, or 1 lb. guano dissolved in twenty gal’ons of water, and the borders 
may be sprinkled when closing the house, or early in the afternoon. Where 
results are of more consequence than appearance a portion of the fer¬ 
menting materials may be removed and the whole of the inside border 
surfaced with manure from the stables, which must be turned several 
times before it is introduced, or the ammonia will be too scrong for the 
tender foliage. The inside border, before being covered with the manure, 
must have a good supply of water, tepid, but not exceeding 90°. This, 
with the leaves in an active state, will incite root action, and the berries 
will swell freely. Avoid cold currents of air, also steam arising from 
highly heated pipes, both being prolific of rust. The heat of fermenting 
materials on outside borders must not be allowed to decline, but should 
be renewed as required. Where no fermenting materials are used care 
should be taken to prevent the roots in outside borders becoming chilled 
by cold rains or snow, having wooden shutters or tarpaulin so disposed as 
to throvv off the rain or melted snow. Attention will be required in 
tying the shoots and in stopping the laterals. It is assumed the shoots* 
have been stopped two or more joints beyond the fruit. Where the 
space is restricted they may have been pinched to one or two joints, and 
in any case the auxiliary growths may be rubbed off except from the two 
lowest leaves, those above the fruit being stopped to one joint. It is of 
the utmost importance that the principal foliage be fully exposed to light 
and air, therefore stop the auxiliary growths at the first joint; at the 
same time very close stopping is not to be recommended where there is. 
room for extension, as an increase of foliage promotes corresponding 
root action ; therefore preserve all the foliage consistent with its full 
exposure to light, overcrowding and overcropping being highly pre¬ 
judicial. 
Houses in which Vines are in flower should have a steady night 
temperature of C5°, 70° to 75° by day by artificial means, and 5° to 10° 
more from sun heat. Muscats 5° higher all round. Black Muscat and 
other V rieties liable to set indifferently may be assisted by tapping the 
bunches every day, or more certainly by applying ripe pollen, drawing 
a brush lightly over the bunches. A constant circulation of dry warm 
air is conducive to a good set, and it is advisable not to stop the growth 
closely during the setting period. 
I'ines Started Early in the Year. —Syringe the roots twice a day 
until the bunches are formed, when it is best discontinued, but main¬ 
taining atmospheric moisture by damping the paths and borders three* 
times a day. Increase the temperature to 55° at night and C0° to 65° 
by day, with an advance from sun heat to 75°, with ventilation in 
accordance with the state of the external air. Avoid damping the 
hot-water pipes when they are highly heated, the steam arising there¬ 
from being very different from that given off by cooler surfaces. Keef> 
up a supply of ammonia in all the houses by turning the fermenting 
materials and adding fresh horse droppings ; or if that be objected to 
the bouse maybe sprinkled with liquid manure, the evaporation troughs- 
being filled with the same. Ammonia vapour not only aids the growth 
and texture of foliage, but is inimical to red spider. 
Jlouses for Affording Pipe Orapes in July. —Start the Vines not 
later than the beginning of next month. There is no need to cover the 
outside border with fermenting material, but a covering of leaves or 
litter is necessary to prevent chill. A bed of fermenting material inside 
the house conduces to a good break by securing a uniform moisture. 
Syringe the rods three times a day, maintaining the temperature 
at 50° at night and 05° by day with sun heat. Water inside borders- 
with liquid manure at 90°, and repeat as necessary, so as to bring the* 
soil into a thoroughly moist state. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The Weather —Owing to the continuous and excessive moisture of 
the soil, we have not been able to dig or trench much lately, and these- 
operations must be pushed forward as soon as circumstances will 
permit. 
South Borders. —These are the best of all positions for the earliest, 
vegetable crops, and when they are well drained and fertile they will 
WORK,foi(the WE EK. 
