106 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Ktb uary «, ISW. 
nearest the hot-water pipes set the best, so that if the pipes are distri¬ 
buted through the house a greater chance of obtaining a good set is the 
result. The soil I have found Grapes to succeed in best, and especially 
Muscats, is a good strong yellow loam, not the turf only, but dug G to 
8 inches deep, according to the quality. The turf alone I consider 
not so good, as it is not so substantial, and does not produce such a sub¬ 
stantial growth. Cultivators have not always the chance of obtaining 
the soil they would like, but have to use that nearest at hand. I have 
known instances where soil has been carted from a distance when that 
more suitable was close at hand. I like to have the borders composed 
of solid material, so that they will retain the food for the Vines if 
the borders are light and fibry. Much of the food supplied to the 
Vines passes away too quickly. A good proportion of brick and mortar 
rubbish is necessary to keep the soil open, and a good sprinkling of half¬ 
inch bones is a great advantage, as they act mechanically as well as 
producing food for the Vines. 
In making the border I like to have the soil firm, having it rammed 
with wooden rammers. About 2 feet 6 inches depth of soil is ample, with 
about 6 inches of drainage. The border is about the width of the house 
if possible. Vines may succeed for some time in very narrow borders, 
but narrow borders are like small pots for large plants, and very liable 
to mismanagement. With regard to inside or outside borders, in a 
general way outside borders are preferred provided means can be had 
for keeping off the cold rains and snow. They are not so liable to be mis¬ 
managed, and do not require nearly so much labour as inside borders, 
for if they are well managed it is rare that they will require watering. 
The labour required to supply the wants of inside borders is very great, 
especially where the water is not conveniently situated. For early 
forcing inside borders are probably best, although I have seen excellent 
Grapes produced from Vines Cchiefly Black Hamburghs and Frontignans) 
grown in outside borders, where the fruit was ripe the first week in 
April. 
Outside borders I keep well mulched with good manure the greater 
portion of the year. After the Grapes are ripe the mulching is gradually 
removed, and the borders exposed to the weather until the approach of 
frost. If good manure is not to be had, or is objected to, I recommend a 
dressing (sufficient to colour the ground) of about equal portions of 
superphosphate of lime and guano, and in the case of old borders which 
have been annually mulched with manure a good dressing of quicklime 
would prove beneficial. As I do not consider it advisable to water out¬ 
side borders, except under special circumstances, it is necessary that 
assistance be supplied the roots in the mulching and top-dressings to be 
washed in by the rain. In preparing a new border it is best to make 
it about a fourth part annually until the desired width is attained, but 
by no means should the roots be cramped for want of room in the early 
part of their existence. 
Planting may be done in the spring or early autumn, the former 
preferred for inside borders, and the latter time for outside, as the soil 
would be much warmer then than in spring, so that the roots would get 
started into the new soil previous to cold weather coming on, and the 
Vines would be enabled to start strongly in the spring through having 
a few established roots to commence with. When the Vines commence 
growing, give them every encouragement to make a strong substantial 
growth, with sufficient heat and air to enable the wood to become solid 
as it is made. The leader is stopped once or twice, and the laterals fre¬ 
quently, so as to concentrate the vigour in that part of the rod which 
will be left after ’pruning. If the Vines have made satisfactory pro¬ 
gress the first season we leave from 4 to 6 feet of rod after pruning. 
Cropping I consider requires as much forethought and consideration 
as any matter connected with the cultivation of the Vine ; so many err 
on this point, while all other matters connected with successful cultiva¬ 
tion are scrupulously carried out. It is known that Vines, when well 
cultivated, produce more fruit than they can properly mature to give 
general satisfaction, and it goes much against the will of many cultiva¬ 
tors to remove many fine bunches at thinning time, and to this matter 
I must plead guilty, but experience is better bought than taught, as it is 
more effectual. Young Vines should be cropped lightly until they 
become established. A great many are too anxious to procure a full crop 
before the Vines are capable of producing it, but it is not at all times 
the fault of the cultivator, for some owners of Vines are not very well 
pleased unless they can see what they call good crops, and dearly are 
they sometimes paid for. After much attention and close observation 
on the matter of cropping of Vines, I consider about a pound weight of 
Grapes to the square yard of roof covered taken from established Vines 
is a fair crop, and the cultivator when he is acquainted with the Vines 
can at the thinning time fairly estimate the number of bunches to leave, 
j although sometimes with vigorous Vines they may exceed one’s expecta¬ 
tions ; but should they become over-weighted with fruit they will surely 
fail to properly mature them, however highly they may be fed, and bad 
finish with shanked berries will be the probable result. 
Summer Treatment.— When the Vines are growing they should 
b3 encouraged, as previously stated, to make a substantial growth by 
admitting air upon all favourable occasions, and allowing plenty of 
light among the foliage by keeping the laterals thin, bat we must be- 
guided by the nature of the house the Vines are._growing in. In houses- 
which are constructed to admit the largest amount of light more growth 
may be allowed, but by no means should they become thickly crowded, 
especially in the case of Muscat of Alexandria, which requires abund¬ 
ance of light throughout its growing season, both for the fruit and wood>- 
and if this is provided from the time of the berries setting, other things 
being satisfactory, they will not fail to finish well. I am no advocate- 
for allowing a dense mass of foliage, recommended by some to encourage- 
root action. All available space should be filled with foliage sufficiently 
thin to admit the sun between the leaves. The shoots are stopped the- 
second leaf beyond the bunch, and rub out all laterals along the shoots- 
as they appear, except one between the base of the shoot and the bunch- 
to act as a kind of safety valve to prevent the base buds bursting. This- 
and all subsequent laterals are closely stopped or rubbed out if there i&- 
any fear of too many leaves forming. This treatment induces the base 
buds to become better developed than they otherwise would do, and the 
foliage being no way crowded they are well matured, and invariably 
produce a good bunch the following season. A sharp look out is kept 
for the usual insects the Vines are subject to, for if they once obtain a. 
footing they cause much trouble to prevent their injuring the foliage- 
A sprinkling of liquid manure about the house in the evening is effectual 
in keeping red spider in check, or a little placed into the evaporating: 
troughs will also cause the foliage to assume a dark green colour, set 
much desired. I pay strict attention to the ventilation, not losing am 
opportunity of admitting air both at the top and the front of the house- 
when favourable, and especially to avoid the houses becoming excessively 
hot before air is admitted. 
Watering requires careful attention if the borders are entirely inside,, 
and the cultivator must be guided by circumstances, but as much harmi 
is done by giving too much water as too little. Vines growing in narrow 
shallow borders will of course require more frequent applications tham 
those not so confined. The borders, if they are inside, are thoroughly 
soaked previously to starting the Vines, and in doing so use liquidi 
manure tolerably strong, so as to furnish the soil with plenty oS 
food for the roots to feed upon. With Vines started in February we^ 
usually find about six good waterings sufficient to bring the crop to 
maturity, given at interva's according to the state of the weather, using: 
liquid manure alternately, but not so strong as it is applied in the winter 
time. The borders are well mulched with good fresh cow manqre con¬ 
taining a fair proportion of straw. I also give the borders a sprinkling 
of lime once during the year. The manure is kept moist during the grow¬ 
ing season by daily sprinkling with syringe. After the crop is cut the 
borders are well soaked with clear water, then a good watering of liquici 
manure follows. Outside borders, if kept well mulched with good- 
manure during the growing season, are rarely watered. Muscat of- 
Alexandria and Mrs. Pince’s Muscat require a good temperature to 
grow in. We commence with a temperature of about 50° at night, 55?" 
by day by artificial heat, with an additional 10° from sun heat, and 
gradually rising from 70° to 75° at night, and 80° to 85° by day from 
sun heat. I have never failed to obtain a good set when the abov& 
temperatures could be secured, and a good shaking of the Vines when, 
in bloom to distribute the pollen. 
The Frontignans, Madresfield Court, Muscat Hamburgh, and Chasselas- 
Musqud do not require so high a temperature. The latter variety and 
Madresfield Court are apt to crack their berries unless carefully looked 
after as regards ventilation, but if freely ventilated and carefully exposed 
to the sun the risk of their cracking will be materially reduced. During 
the growing season, after the fruit is set as well as before, the Vines- 
receive an occasional syringing to cleanse the foliage, which also assists- 
in keeping away red spider, but I am careful that very clear water only 
is used. Water containing lime would not be suitable owing to its 
leaving a sediment upon the berries. Syringing the foliage should be 
performed carefully and early enough in the afternoon to allow the 
berries to dry quickly, otherwise they would be discoloured if the water 
remained upon them long, and the skin of the berries should become 
firm before using the syringe for the foliage ; no evil then results from 
the practice. As the fruit approaches maturity syringing the foliage is- 
disoontinued. 
