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JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
119 
might leainintime to beat him simply by a study of the first prize 
exhibits as compared with their own ; but, as I have said, they have no 
enterprize for this, soon get disheartened, and give it up altogether. 
Every effort should be made to teach them the good points of the diffe¬ 
rent exhibits—a little speech or lecture, or something of this sort, on 
the day of the show, when the vegetables, ikc., are there before them, 
will probably be found useful to this end. 
Two or three years ago the local show of a neighbouring village gave 
a prize for the “biggest” Potato! (Oh, Paul Neron, H.P. ! w'hat a 
time you would have had if the N.K.S. medals had been given for 
biggest Eoses !) so I issued a counterblast by offering two prizes for 
“ the best (not biggest) round and kidney Potatoes ” in our show. The 
winning tubers were prominently displayed with their cards attached 
to them, and the cottagers were exhorted to take them as samples for 
selection. 
They have learned, I believe. We had last year fewer specimens 
shown which were “ White Elephants ” by nature as well as by name, 
and I shall not be surprised if the cottagers are well up to the gardeners 
in the matter of Potatoes on the next occasion.—W. R. Railleji. 
Having a similar difficulty to contend with in our local show as 
that stated by “ Head Gardener,” the following rule, irrespective of 
class, was inserted in the schedules, “ No exhibitor to take more than 
six prizes.” Exhibitors knowing beforehand the number of prizes 
allowed entered accordingly. Following the above rule gave general 
satisfaction, and a more equal distribution of honours.—T. H. Slade. 
those of more robust growth. A temperature of 00° to C5° will be suffi¬ 
cient for these plants, also those potted last autumn, and about 8.5° 
bottom heat. Plants in beds about to be started into fruit must not 
have the heat at the base of the pots over 90° or 95°, or their roots will 
be injured. If sufficient fruits be started to meet the requirements 
later successional plants that have not been subjected to a high tem¬ 
perature may be advanced slowly, they with autumn-rooted suckers 
requiring careful watering, especially where the heat at the roots ia 
supplied by fermenting materials. 
Strawberries in Pots. —When the plants commence flowering 
admit air freely, remove the (veaker flowers, and when the pollen is ripe¬ 
brush the flower lightly with a feather. After the fruit is set, thin thear 
to about half a dozen to each plant, more or less according to the variety. 
Whilst the fruit is setting .50° to 55° will be sufficient heat artificially, 
advancing to 00° to 05" with sun heat, but after the setting is effect^ 
remove the plants to a house with a temperature of 60° to 65° artificially 
and 70° to 75° by day, supplying liquid manure until ripening com¬ 
mences, then employ water only and sparingly. Whilst bwelling they 
require a moist genial condition of the atmosphere. 
Successional plants must not lack water, but needless watering is 
highly prejudicial, therefore examine each plant and afford a supply only 
when needed. The plants must not be brought on too rapidly in the 
early stages, a temperature of 50° artificially is ample. If there be any 
trace of aphides fumigate moderately, taking care to have the plants, 
perfectly clean before they cease flowering. 
WOKK.FOflTHEWEEll. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Earliest Trees in Pots. —The trees started in November for 
affording ripe Figs early in May will be forming fresh roots plentifully, 
the bottom heat being kept steady at about 70° to 75°. Raise the fer¬ 
menting material to the rims of the pots, and instead of allowing the 
roots to come over them to ramble unchecked in the fermenting 
material, place pieces of good turf round the rims to keep the roots near 
home and to induce sturdier growth. Maintain genial moisture in the 
atmosphere by syringing twice a day and damping as may be required 
in bright weather. Admit a little air at 70°, increasing it with the 
temperature; close at 75°, and if the temperature rise to 80° or 85° from 
s\in heat it will be an advantage. See that there is no lack of water at 
the roots. The drainage being good there is little danger of giving Figs 
too much water, many crops being lost by the soil being kept too dry. 
T he temperature in dull weather must be kept at 60° to 65°, 55° to 60° 
at night when the external air is cold, but 5° higher when the weather 
is mild. Disbudding will need attention as growth advances and gross 
shoots are stopped, but the finest Figs are borne upon extensions. 
Early Forced Planted Ont Trees. —The trees planted in inside 
borders and started early in the year are commencing growth, and may 
have the night temperature raised to 55°, 60° to 65° by day from fire 
heat, with an advance from sun heat and free ventilation to 70°, or even 
75°. Syringe twice a day, and see that the borders are thoroughly 
moistened. If the trees are weak a soaking with liquid manure, not too 
strong, at a temperature of 85° to 90° will assist the growth. 
Vines. — Eyes and Cut-lacks. —Eyes may now be inserted, using 
pots, pans, or square pieces of turf. Select firm well-ripened wood, 
filling the pot or pan with rich friable loam ; insert the buds with a pinch 
of silver sand, and half an inch beneath the surface plunge the pots, &c., 
in a bottom heat of 80°. Cut-backs should be placed in a house where 
they will have a temperature of 60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° by 
day. When they have started into growth shake them out and return 
to the same size of pot, using good friable loam, and give a rather close 
and moist atmosphere until re-established, when they should have a 
position near to the glass, so as to insure sturdy, short-jointed, thoroughly 
solidified growth. 
Pines. — Fruitinq Pla?its and Startei's. —These are showing fruit, 
and should have a mean temperature of 70°, varying 5° according to the 
weather, admitting air at 80° with sunshine, but do not lower the 
temperature. Allow it to rise to 85°; close between that and 80°, and 
if it rise somewhat after closing it will be advantageous rather than 
otherwise. The plants recently started into fruit will, if in good con¬ 
dition at the roots, produce strong suckers. When the suckers are large 
enough to handle, all except one to each plant must have the growth 
checked by taking out the centre. To supplement the autumn potted 
plants select others which have been wintered in 7 or 8-inch pots, 
choosing the most vigorous. Those remaining may be reserved until the 
general spring potting, when they may be shaken out and treated 
similarly to suckers. Good fibrous loam, with the turf well reduced, 
placed under cover to become dried, is a suitable compost. Drain the 
pots well, dust dry soot or wood ashes over the crocks to exclude worms, 
and ram the soil firmly round the plants, keeping them well down in 
the pots to admit of copious suppies of water being given when 
necessary; 10-inch pots are suitable for Queens, and 11 or 12-inch for 
bee-kbeper. 
/i 
HINTS FOR BEGINNERS. 
Feeders and Feeding. 
Syrup suitable for feeding bees is made by dissolving sugar in 
about its equal weight of water. When syrup is too thick the bee» 
cannot use it. If the beginner is anxious to teed from a large sur¬ 
face for rapid feeding, let him procure a solid piece of yellow pine 
the width wanted, and an inch or so narrower than the top of hive 
from front to back, and about three-eighths of an inch thick. Now 
prepare and joint at the corners pieces about an inch broad by half 
an inch thick, and nail this firmly to the sole. One of the pieces is 
kept three-eighths of an inch lower than the others, which has a 
groove three-eighths from the top to the bottom to receive a pane 
of glass. As a resting place of wood is required in the centre for 
the fountain, two panes of glass become necessary. 
The hole to receive the neck of the fountain must be bridgedin 
to prevent bees escaping. The bottom of feeder is filled in with 
strips of wood a quarter of an inch square, having little pieces an 
inch long or so, to keep them apart a quarter of an inch. This 
gives the bees a quarter to rest upon and a quarter to sip the 
syrup. These short pieces must be three-eighths of an inch deep^ 
so as to leave one-eighth beneath to allow syrup to flow, and pre¬ 
vent bees getting under, as they do when floats are used in deep' 
feeders. I see I have omitted to state that an inner rim should be 
nailed firmly to the sole three-eighths high. This forms the feeder 
proper, while the outer one prevents the bees escaping, and admits 
the glass coverings and space for bees. While this has the ad¬ 
vantages of a rapid feeder, the bees are within three-quarters of 
an inch of the syrup, but is not to be compared to the universal 
feeder previously explained. 
There should be a feeder for every hive, and these, as well as 
the hives, numbered when types are not at hand. A thin punch 
about three-eighths broad does well to mark Roman figures oni 
zinc, the raised side being kept uppermost and fixed permanently to- 
the hive and its appliances. 
Storing Appliances. 
Unless the beginner adopts some method of keeping things in- 
their proper places, and to know where these places are, he will 
soon get bothered. Whether appliances are kept in presses or 
boxes, trays should be largely in use. A general index should he 
fastened to each press or box, or in a book, and each tray should, 
have a note fastened externally, describing each article it contains^. 
Four pieced sections come in handy for little boxes to hold nails,-,, 
seeds, &c., and I find where seeds have not been thoroughly dried at 
