134 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
r February 13,1893. 
shifter. Although some hundreds of years old it has made more growth 
since it was moved than it did for some years previous. I will now en¬ 
deavour to write a brief description of the working of these simple 
machines that may be a sufficient guide to enable the ordinary intelli¬ 
gent novice to use them efficiently. I will take for example a tree of 
8 or 10 tons. First mark out a square shaped space about 8 by 10 feet, 
dig out the ends first to a depth of 2 feet G inches, then burrow right 
under the centre of the tree for the purpose of inserting a strong centre 
plank capable of carrying the whole tree, when this is inserted under 
the bole of the tree with about a foot projecting out each end for the 
purpose of hooking the looped end of the winding rope on. The sides 
may next be dug out and the end planks inserted under the bole across 
the centre for the purpose of carrying the side planks which are the 
next to be fixed. These planks should be G inches longer than the mass 
to allow corner chains to be fastened. These prevent the tree swaying 
while being conveyed to its future position. If the tree has a long 
journey or the soil of a loose nature the sides will require supporting 
with straw and boards bound together with ropes similar to a cooper 
hooping a barrel. Should the tree be very tall guy ropes are needed to 
hold it in an upright position. These should be fastened to the tree as 
high as possible at right angles to enable four men to steady it while 
being moved, or they may be fastened to each corner of the machine, or 
both may be required in windy weather. The tree will now be ready 
for the machine, which is taken in two parts. The hind portion may be 
first put into position ready to receive the side beams, which are attached 
to the front limber part of the machine. When the machine is put 
together the tree will be in the centre. Katchel rollers are placed across 
the beams, one each side of the tree, and a double rope for winding. 
When these are in position and the loop end of the rope hooked on the 
centre plank, winding may be commenced steadily. Strong sling chains 
with a ring at one end and hook at the other are fastened to the side 
beam passing under the centre plank and hooked on the other side, and 
gradually hitched up as the tree is lifted as a safeguard in case the 
winding gear gives way. When high enough to clear the ground, the 
chains may be fastened and the rollers slackened a little so that each 
chain takes an equal bearing. The principal weight is carried by the 
sling chains and centre plank. The hole must be filled up level and 
planked over or the machine will be difficult to get over the loose soil. 
If planks can be laid the whole distance, and horses cannot be used, men 
can move an immense weight, or pulleys can be brought into requisition. 
A square hole with the ends made slanting for the wheels to pass down 
may be dug with a furrow at the bottom for the centre plank to rest 
in, to prevent it getting fastened when the tree is lowered into its 
position. 
The machine has to be taken to pieces as before when all the planks 
are removed, The furrow at the bottom must be firmly packed with 
earth to make a solid, flat foundation for the tree to rest on. When all 
is filled in the whole may be thoroughly soaked with water if necessary, 
and a lofty tree will require supporting with guy ropes or wire— 
especially in exposed positions—until fresh roots are made and the soil 
gets solid. It is a good plan to mulch fresh planted trees ; it is much 
better than using too much water. There are several different sized 
machines, which may he hired of Mr. Barron, Borrowash Nurseries, at 
moderate cost, with both experienced men and the requisite appliances, 
or I believe machines are made to order and sold by that firm.— 
J. H. Goodacee. 
GLOXINIAS. 
These easily grown plants have been so greatly improved of late 
years, both in form and colour, that a packet of seed from a good strain 
may be relied upon to produce superior varieties. Although natives of 
tropical Arnerica, they may be grown to perfection without subjecting 
them to a high temperature, and although usually found in the stove 
they can be grown in an ordinary greenhouse, provided they are carefully 
watered and shaded with due ventilation, but they must be sheltered 
from draught, as nothing seems to have a more baneful effect upon them 
than direct currents of air. The best Gloxinias I have seen were grown 
by an amateur friend of mine on a shelf placed in the apex of his span- 
roof greenhouse. He had plenty of plants in G-inch pots last year 
carrying between thirty and forty splendid blooms and as many buds at 
the same time, and the plants, with their large healthy leaves, were 
pictures in themselves without the flowers. This amateur took the 
Gloxinia in hand three years ago, and has each year produced examples 
that has taken the conceit out of at least one gardener. He pots his 
plants into three-fourths sandy loam, the other part is made up of peat, 
sand, and charcoal; but this is not a compost I should feel safe in recom¬ 
mending the tyro, for I believe very few would succeed with it. Of 
course the plants will not grow so fast in a greenhouse, but their leaves 
are of great substance and their flowers very durable. 
The seeds of Gloxinias are extremely small, and great care is 
necessary in sowing them. The pots or pans should be well drained 
and filled within one inch of the top with equal parts peat, sand, and 
cocoanut fibre, and this compost should be thoroughly mixed by passing 
it several times through a half-inch sieve. Press it into the pots mode¬ 
rately firm, and make the surface level by shaking a little of the soil 
through a very fine hair sieve, after which give a good watering through 
a fine rose. In about two hours the pots will be ready for the seed, 
which should be sown regularly and thinly, and a very little soil shaken 
through the hair sieve to cover the seed, but care must betaken not to 
bury it deeply. The seeds will germinate in a temperature of G0°, but 
if the pots can be plunged in a bottom heat of 70° it will hasten 
germination. Place a pane of glass over the pot, also a little moss 
over the glass, until the seed germinates, when it should be removed 
and the seedlings gradually exposed to more light and air, but no 
direct sunshine. 
If the soil in the seed pots becomes dry it must not be watered in 
the ordinary way, or three parts of the plants may be lost, but stand the 
pots in warm water not quite deep enough to rise through the soil to the 
surface. Let no anxious beginner disregard these apparently trivial 
matters, for much good seed is lost every year and condemned as worth¬ 
less through careless or improper management, and as a consequence 
many a honest seedsman has been branded with a bad name. The 
greatest care, patience, and skill are required with the young plants, 
and trivial neglect, that would be unnoticed at a later stage, may prove 
fatal here. Place other pots of soil prepared as advised for the seed into 
the same house to warm, and when the seedlings have two leaves prick 
them off singly, or if they have come up thickly in bunches about 
1 inch apart. This is always a delicate operation, and necessitates 
having the soil on the surface very fine and level. Do not attempt to 
lift them with the fingers, but first make a dent in the soil of the pan, 
and with a stick or cedar pencil tranfer a plant or bunch of plants into 
the dent, and carefully press the fine soil round it. When all is com¬ 
plete give a sprinkling of warm water through a fine rose, and place a 
pane of glass over the pan until the plants start into growth again. As 
soon as the leaves touch each other prick the plants off again about 
3 inches apart into pans or boxes. All those pricked off in bunches 
should be carefully separated, and the plants may be sorted in sizes, 
some of which may be large enough to place into thumb pots ; but we 
find them succeed best in pans or boxes until they have grown into 
large plants—indeed, unless wanted in pots they may be flowered in 
boxes the first year. For greenhouses and staged conservatories they 
are undoubtedly most useful in pots ; hence before becoming crowded 
they should be placed into pots, ranging from 3 inches to 5 inches 
according to the size of the plants, using a compost of peat, leaf mould, 
light sandy loam, and sand in equal parts, with a sprinkling of powdered 
charcoal and bonemeal. The pots must be well drained, and the soil 
pressed in moderately firm. Sudden checks should be carefully avoided, 
or it may induce them to throw up a few flowers before the plants have, 
attained any size, but after each shift they should be kept close and 
warm until they take to the new soil, after which give them more air 
and plenty of light, but always shade from direct sunshine. Watering 
must be carefully attended to, as if Gloxinias become dry or too wet the 
leaves may turn rusty, and the plants be stunted. When they get 
into this unsatisfactory condition they are seldom any good until rested 
and repotted. 
Some fine varieties are sure to appear amongst seedlings from a good 
strain, and these the grower will be anxious to increase. Gloxinias are 
easily propagated, and if the stock plants can be placed in a strong 
moist temperature a large quantity can soon be worked up. Spread a. 
layer of fibre or half-decayed leaves over the bottom of boxes or pans, 
then pack the bulbs closely together and cover them level with the 
crowns with equal parts fibre and sand. Place them in a temperature 
not less than 70° in a somewhat subdued light, the object being to pro¬ 
duce cuttings by elongating the growths instead of forming short-necked 
crowns, as they would do if given plenty of light and room. When 
growths with three joints are produced cuttings should be taken imme¬ 
diately below the second joint, thus leaving one joint on the stock plants for 
the production of future cuttings. Dibble the cuttings into well drained 
pans, using fibre and sand in equal parts, with a layer of sand on the 
surface. Bottom heat will facilitate the rooting, but it is by no means 
essential, as if placed in a temperature of 70° they will root in a fort¬ 
night. If wanted for growing into flowering plants treat them as soon 
as rooted the same as advised for seedlings, but if more cuttings are 
required treat them as the stock plants. In this way a large quantity 
may be worked up from a very limited stock. Those who have not 
sufficient heat and convenient places at command must resort to the 
slower process of increasing their stock by leaves. Cut off a few of the 
oldest leaves with about half an inch of the petiole attached and insert 
them round the edges of G-inch pots, burying about half an inch of the 
blade, when in time a bulb will form at the extremity of the petiole. 
A more economical way with large leaves is to make incisions about 
half an inch apart along the primary vein, then firmly peg the back of 
the leaf to the soil. Leaves treated thus should not be kept too wet or 
close, or they may decay before bulbs are formed. If properly managed, 
however, bulbs will form at every incision, and these, after the leaves 
have decayed, should be gathered from the soil and stored in dry sand 
for another year in a temperature not lower than 55°.—J. H. W. 
BOUVARDIAS. 
Much of Mr. Bardney’s advice on Bouvardia culture, page 12, is 
sound and reliable ; yet those who have grown large quantities of these 
plants may question the wisdom of some of the treatment advised. For 
instance, he says, “ It is a good plan to adopt a two-years system of 
raising plants,” and he advocates the practice of crowding a number in 
a box for a season, for no other reason than to obtain a stock for the 
following year. Unless space is so very limited that an early start is im¬ 
practicable, I question the utility of this for two reasons—viz., waste of 
time and opportunity, and because fine plants can be grown and flowered 
the same season from cuttings struck in March, with very little coddling 
either. 
