140 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February IS, 1890. 
Violette Bouyer (Lacharme, 1881).—A seedling from Jules Mar- 
gottin, of free, vigorous, long growth, with good foliage very liable to 
mildew. This Rose comes very well, of a most useful shape, the outer 
petals falling well down before the centre uncloses ; it thus makes the 
most of itself, and never requires any dressing. It cannot stand any 
rain, like Madame Lacharme, and, like it, is liable to show injury from 
thrips, the petals being delicate in texture. The outer petals only 
are tinted with pink, and often the whole Rose is pure white. It 
is very free blooming, and good in a dry autumn, also hardy and strong 
in constitution, but loses in value from its dependence upon fine 
weather. 
Xavier Oliho (Lacharme, 1861).—Evidently a seedling from G^ndral 
Jacqueminot, as the wood is very similar. A weak grower with bad 
constitution, rather liable to mildew, and not enduring rain well, which 
answers best if budded annually, but occasionally does fairly well as a 
cut-back. The colour of this Rose is generally catalogued as “ velvety 
black, shaded with amaranth,” which is a very taking description, 
especially to those (if there are any beside myself) who have but a 
hazy idea of what amaranth is as a colour. I thought it was a flower, 
not a colour, and the sort of flower more often found in books of poetry 
than in actual gardens. Moreover, I confess that having seen first-class 
specimens of Xavier Oliho, which sometimes produces a very fine dark 
bloom, I am still uncertain as to where the amaranth “ comes in,” as 
the Americans say. Dark crimson, shaded darker, and velvety in 
favourable specimens, would be my description, but I dare say it would 
not be right. I know that it is difficult to describe the various shades 
accurately. The blooms come divided sometimes, the petals are stout 
and the centre full and recurved, but sometimes nicely pointed ; a good 
laster, of full size. It will not answer on poor soil, and from its weak 
growth is necessarily not good as a free bloomer or autumnal.— 
W, R. Raillem. 
(To be continued.) 
EUCHARIS GRANDIFLORA. 
In your issue of January 30th I notice an article by Mr. VV. Taylor, 
entitled ” Destroying the Bucharis Mite.” Like Mr. Taylor, I do not 
believe the Eucharis is altogether a hard plant to cultivate, but I cannot 
understand their doing fairly well either baked, stewed, or poisoned. 
I contend the best way to renovate bulbs that are in ill health (which 
I prefer to call it rather than attacked by mite, as I think the one 
follows the other as a matter of course), is to cut away the roots and 
leaves and wash the bulbs and place in small pots, say three bulbs in a 
6-inch pot, like Mr. Taylor, and remove when filled with roots. 
I prefer washing the bulbs in warm water, as I find it safer to kill 
the mite by good treatment rather than have recourse to so-called mite 
killers, which I think I am safe in saying have sent more bulbs to the 
rubbish heap than any other cause. The wash Mr. Taylor recommends 
I consider no more effectual than water, as one of my friends soaked his 
bulbs in a mixture of petroleum, &c., for twenty-four hours, the same 
being much stronger than Mr. Taylor used, at the end of which time 
the mite was still alive, but the bulbs hopelessly destroyed. When my 
own bulbs were first attacked through coming in contact with some 
fresh bulbs I bought, I, like many others, tried to cure a portion of them 
by dipping them in a strong solution of petroleum and softsoap, which 
killed instead of curing, and those I left alone to be cured by cultiva¬ 
tion succeeded beyond my expectations. Another Eucharis grower in 
our neighbourhood says my version of the matter entirely coincides with 
his experience, he having killed bulbs he tried to cure by dipping, and 
cured those he left alone. Doubts exist in some people’s minds as to my 
bulbs having been attacked by mite, but that they were attacked by 
mite and also by a fungus is a fact, to which Mr. W. B. Grove of the 
Mason Science College, Birmingham, can testify. I observe that one 
vendor of a mite killer in advertising same in your columns, says that 
bulbs which four months ago were leafless and eaten by mite all over 
and into the scales are now in healthy leaf and throwing their flower 
spikes. If this be so, I think this wonderful recovery in so short a time 
should go a long way to prove that the ravages caused by mite 
are more imaginary than real, assuming of course that proper treatment 
is given. 
The plants Mr. Taylor alludes to were bought at auction, and which 
quickly responded to a liberal treatment, but after being divided and 
repotted soon fell into a sickly condition, making new leaves only to 
lose them prematurely. These, I presume, were repotted with roots and 
leaves left untouched ; dn which case, unless the bulbs are exceedingly 
healthy, the roots have a tendency to decay and encourage insect life, 
and the leaves a tendency to push unsupported by anything except 
what remains in the bulb, which it soon exhausts, and the atmospheric 
moisture of the house. After a short time this support proves to be 
altogether insufficient, hence the leaves getting into the flabby condition 
alluded to by Mr. Taylor ; whereas it roots and leaves had been re¬ 
moved in first instance, which according to Mr. Taylor’s letter had to be 
done before any good result was obtained, I think he would have been 
able to say the bulbs responded to the call without the aid of petroleum 
and Fir-tree oil. I find that by the removal of leaves the bulb becomes, 
as it were, sealed for a time, and the slimy substance so necessary for 
the after development of roots and leaves preserved, without which 1 
think it is useless to attempt to grow the Eucharis successfully, as the 
drier the bulb becomes the less the chance of success, and the easier it 
falls a prey to enemies.— Henry Porter. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Forced Bouse. —The Vines in flower must have a 
temperature of 60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 76° by day artificially. 
Keep the atmosphere somewhat drier by free ventilation, leaving a little 
air on at night, yet keeping the floors sprinkled three times a day during 
bright weather. Any shy-setting Grapes may have the pollen dis¬ 
tributed by brushing the bunches lightly with a camel-hair brush. 
Stop the laterals at the first leaf, and keep them stopped to one leaf 
throughout the season, but those beyond the bunch may be allowed to 
make two or more joints, provided there is space for the full exposure of 
the foliage to light and air. Avoid overcrowding the foliage ; it is 
better to reduce the laterals than allow them to obstruct the light that 
would otherwise reach the principal foliage. 
Houses Started at the New Year. —The Vines are in leaf and showing 
fruit. Disbud when it is seen which shoots are likely to afford the best 
bunches. One bunch on a spur is as much as is likely to finish satis¬ 
factorily ; but if there be space, the spurs being widely distant along the 
rod, two shoots may be left, it being clearly understoood that only one 
is to be allowed to carry fruit, the duplicate only remaining until choice 
can be made of the best, and in case of two shoots being left, one ought 
to be near the main rod, so as to keep the spur as short as possible. 
Weakly Vines, however, may be given more latitude, so as to secure 
stouter wood, larger and plumper eyes, and better bunches in future. 
See that outside borders are sufficiently protected to prevent chill by 
heavy rain or snow. When the Vines are in leaf the temperature should 
be raised to 60° or 65° at night, 5° less in severe weather, 70° to 76° by 
day with sun, admitting air carefully in sharp weather, but freely when¬ 
ever the external conditions are favourable, in order to the formation of 
stout firm-textured foliage. 
Houses to Afford Grapes in July and August. —The Vines must now 
be started. Damp the rods three times a day, and every available 
surface. A temperature of 60° at night, 65° by day artificially, and 65° 
from sun heat, is suitable until the buds begin to move. Bring the 
inside border into a thoroughly moist state by repeated supplies of 
tepid water or liquid manure. Afford outside borders sufficient pro¬ 
tection against chill. Any young rods or canes should be depressed to 
the horizontal line, or lower, to insure the buds breaking regularly. 
RijJe Grapes. —Avoid fire heat as much as possible in the Grape- 
room, admitting air to prevent an accumulation of moisture, replenish¬ 
ing the latter with clear soft water as required. An equable tempera¬ 
ture of 45° is most suitable. 
New Borders. —Soil should now be prepared, and the best for the 
purpose is the top 3 or 4 inches of a rich pasture of a friable nature, 
neither very light nor very heavy. As that is not always obtainable 
light loam may have an addition of clay marl, and heavy loam an 
addition of old mortar rubbish, a fourth to a sixth fin each case accord¬ 
ing to the texture of the loam. To improve the porosity of the compost 
a sixth of old mortar rubbish may be added to the loam, being careful 
to remove every particle of wood. A twentieth part of charcoal 
may be added, and a fortieth of crushed bones. Calcined oyster shells 
may be used in similar proportion to the crushed bones, also wood ashes. 
Chalk is a good application to light silicious soil, employing it to the 
extent of a fifth. If the soil be poor a fifth part of short fresh stable 
manure or horse droppings may be added. It is best, however, not to 
apply material which when spent forms a close mass. The whole should 
be well incorporated. 
In preparing the border, which may be proceeded with as weather 
permits, bear in mind that no fruit tree requires more copious supplies 
of water when in growth than the Vine, and at the same time none is 
more impatient of stagnant water ; hence drainage should receive first 
attention, and instead of excavating, concreting, and cementing keep 
the border well elevated as far as circumstances permit. Employ 3-inch 
drains with proper fall and outlet. Provide a foot in depth, material, the 
roughest at the bottom and the smallest at the top, which last pre¬ 
ferably may be old mortar rubbish. If the border is intended for early 
or late Vines allow a sharp slope to the gouth for the purpose of throwing 
off the wet by shutters or other means. The best time for planting 
Vines is from April to June inclusive, and those intended to be planted 
at that season must now be cut back to the length required, and be 
placed in a cool Peach house or pit to start into growth, and when the 
new shoots are 2 or 3 inches long shake out the plants and plant them 
in the permanent borders. A 6-feet width of border will be sufficient 
in the first instance. Where the Vine roots are to have the run of both 
inside and outside borders they should be confined inside, not making 
the outside border until the Vines are thoroughly established. 
Cherry Houses. —These are not nearly so common as they deserve 
to be, indeed no fruit is so esteemed at dessert as the Cherry. A lean-to 
house erected against a south wall is suitable for Cherries, and it need 
not be more than 6 feet in width. The back can be covered with trees, 
and the front to a height of about 6 feet, with trees on the Mahaleb 
stock. Provide ventilation at the top and bottom of the house, and the 
front lights to be moveable. The border should be made inside, though 
