BVbrnary SB, 1890. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
147 
doubt the white, yellow, and red shades are the most popular either 
for ladies’ wear or for table decoration. Some of the most profitable 
are Fair Maid of Guernsey, Elaine, M. Astorg, Mdlle. Lacroix, 
Avalanche, and Mr*3. J. Wright, all nearly or quite 
white ; Peter the Great, Thunberg, Mr, H. Cannell, and Golden 
Dragon, yellow ; J. Diilaux, dark red ; Jupiter, bright red ; Carew 
Underwood, rosy bronze ; Japonaise, orange ; Hiver Fleuri, white 
and rose ; Duchess of Albany, orange and red ; E. Molyneux, 
crimson, gold reverse ; Comte de Germiny, yellow, striped crimson 
Airown ; and Valle d’Andorre, chestnut red.—M. Hi 
HARDY SHRUBS FOR FORCING. 
Deutzia gracilis. 
Deutzia gracilis is unquestionably one of the most useful plants 
we possess for flowering during the winter and spring months for 
conservatory and other forms of decoration. The best method of 
raising a stock of plants for forcing purposes is by cuttings of 
young growing shoots taken off after flowering. The shoots should 
be soft, about 2 inches long, and if cut to a joint everyone will root 
when inserted in sandy soil and plunged in brisk heat in the propagat¬ 
ing frame. It is necessary to keep them close and shaded from the 
sun until they are rooted. As soon as this takes place gradually 
harden them by exposure to light and air. Before they become 
Tootbound they should be transplanted about 2 inches apart in 
shallow boxes. A suitable compost is formed of equal parts of 
deaf mould and old soil from the potting shed, in which bulbs or 
•other plants may have been growing for a short time. A good 
watering will be necessary, and as soon as they commence growth 
the point of the plant may be removed to induce them to branch. 
If the cuttings are rooted early in the season they may be pinched 
when they have grown about 2 inches in length. As soon as the 
young plants are growing freely in the boxes harden them gradu¬ 
ally, so that they can be removed to an intermediate temperature, 
where they may remain until May, when they may be again 
hardened, grown in cold frames, and prepared for planting out the 
first week in June. 
The position selected outside must be an open one, where they 
will be exposed to the sun. The soil in which they are planted 
must be well manured, and a liberal quantity of leaf mould stirred 
into the surface as well. The last is not really necessary, but where 
it can be practised tbe plants grow more rapidly than when the 
ground is manured in the ordinary way. If the plants are to be 
lifted as soon as they are large enough for 5 and 6-inch pots plant 
them G inches apart in rows 1 foot asunder. When removed from 
the box the method we have found best is to cut them out with a 
k:nife, so that each plant has a ball of soil attached to its roots 
.2 inches square. It may be necessary to water them after they are 
first placed out, and if the surface can be covered with leaf mould 
or other material to arrest evaporation so much the better. Failing 
this the hoe should be frequently used amongst them until they 
ehow signs of vigorous growth. In the fo lowing February cut them 
back level with the ground, which will induce them to push up 
etrongly, and this must be repeated until they are large enough for 
■lifting and potting. 
Where there is no convenience for raising and growing Deutzias 
for a time under glass they can be treated chroughout as hardy 
plants. Insert cuttings of growing shoots under handlights or 
■a bellglass in a shady position in light sandy soil early in August. 
If well watered and the glass placed over them the only attention 
■they will need afterwards is to water them if the soil becomes dry. 
If in a shady position they will be rooted before they need atten¬ 
tion in this respect. When they are rooted gradually harden and 
■ripen them. During showery weather towards the end of March 
or April they should be planted out as advised for those raised and 
■grown in boxes. If ground is an object, dibble them in thickly 
together so that they are not crowded, and transplant them the 
following season. However carefully the work may be done 
the young plants receive a slight check, and they do not make 
•such satisfactory progress as when planted out permanently at 
the first. 
Lift the plants when they are large enough towards the end of 
September, or early in the following month. If plenty of leaf 
mould has been stirred into the soil the plants will be secured with 
plenty of fibrous roots. These should be reduced carefully accord¬ 
ing to the pots in which they are to be placed, employing good 
■loam, one-seventh of decayed manure, and a little sand. Press the 
soil firmly into the pot, and one crock at the base will be ample. 
Stand the plants in a shady position for a few days, and syringe 
them freely two or three times during the day. This will prevent 
the foliage flagging, and roots will commence forming in a short 
<time. Plunge the pots in a sunny position. If the surface of the 
soil is covered with the plunging material, and this is kept moist, 
no water will be needed at their roots beyond the small quantity 
that finds its way to them by syringing, which may be continued 
until the plants will bear full exposure without flagging. These 
lifted early and given the treatment described will have their pots 
nearly full of roots by the time frost de.stroys their foliage. We 
have used them for late flowering in spring ''without signs of 
injury, but we do not advise this course to be practised. 
Hundreds are ruined that are annually purchased, potted, and 
forced, during the winter or spring months. Plants that are lifted 
after the foliage falls, or when approaching that stage, potted and 
then forced, may flower freely enough, but they never make any but 
tbe most puny growth the following season. In many cases it is not 
stronger than that of plants the first season they are raised from 
cuttings. To have Deutzias in the best possible condition for 
forcing, lift them early, and prune closely back after the foliage 
has fallen, and then grow them one year in pots. Pruning may be 
done at any time during tbe winter, and the pots can be plunged in 
cold frames. This will induce early growth, and consequently early 
ripening in autumn. The plants may be hardened so that they can be 
grown outside from the end of May. When the pots are full of roots 
weak stimulants may with advantage be given, and the result will 
be stout shoots from 1 foot to 18 inches in length. After they 
have flowered they should be cut back, allowed to start again into 
growth, and then placed into pots 2 inches larger. If forced 
moderately early in the season they must be started again into 
growth, and grown under glass until they can be hardened, and the 
weather is sufficiently genial for placing them outside. Large 
bushes with short twiggy growths flower profusely, and are pro¬ 
duced by the removal of decaying flowers only. Pruning in this 
case must not be practised. But, however well these may look, we 
prefer to prune them close back after flowering. Clean growths, 
varying from 2 to 3 feet in length and profusely flowered, are much 
more graceful and attractive for decorative purposes than those 
crowded with short growths and old wood. 
To keep a stock for forcing in the best possible condition 
Deutzias must be well cared for after flowering and encouraged to 
make their growth for a time indoors. When turned outside, or 
even removed from structures in which they have flowered to 
others that are cold and draughty, they are seriously checked and 
refuse to grow ; in fact, they soon become stunted and useless. 
When subject to early flowering, however good the treatment may 
be, they will, after their pots become crowded with roots, decline 
to grow luxuriantly. When well e.stablished specimens are in this 
condition they should not be thrown out as worthless, for one 
year’s rest is ample to restore them to vigour. After flowering 
cut them back as usual, and if they have been forced early they 
will naturally ripen early, and may, about the middle of August, in 
some cases earlier, even in July, be turned out and their roots 
reduced one-third. Treat them afterwards in the same way as 
young plants. While growing, abundance of water is necessary ; 
in fact, in no stage, not even while at rest, should Deutzias 
be allowed to become dry. On the other hand they must not ba 
over-watered after they are potted until they are rooting freely 
in the new compost.—N. G. 
EMIGRATION OF GARDENERS. 
(^Continued from jyage 125.") 
Fruit. —Strawberries succeed famously, especially in Long 
Island. They, however, are not given any particular culture. 
When in full season they may be had at 6 cents per quart. 
When first coming in from Florida, as they do in March, the price 
is 1 dollar per quart, but they are only Strawberries in name. 
Gooseberries do not succeed, or Black Currants. Red and White 
Currants thrive tolerably in shady places. Raspberries do capitally, 
also Blackberries, which are grown similarly to Raspberries— i.e., 
cutting out the old and weak wood, the fruiting canes being cut 
back about half their length, and four or five of the strongest le- 
served to each stake, the stools are 5 feet apart. The fruit is very 
large, and very much esteemed for dessert, largely used also like 
Strawberries, with cream. They are grown in fields by the 
acre. 
Apples are much the same in Maine, but are finer in colour, 
with a corresponding lack of juice. Pears do well, also Cherries, 
but not Plums ; they are not good only in the hills in New York 
State and elsewhere. 
Peaches do splendidly. The trees are half-standards, the treat¬ 
ment being briefly to well thin the old wood, leaving the young, 
every year providing for itself. Maiden trees are planted in rows 
about 20 feet apart, and 10 to 12 feet asunder in the rows, ground 
cropped with Sweet Corn until the trees commence bearing. A few 
