186 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 27, i 8 !K'. 
the plan answers very well. We do not advise your planting Rhubarb 
■within 8 or 9 feet from the stems of the trees. 
Xiand for Truit Cro'wliig' (Z>. B .').—Fruit is well grown in some 
parts of Essex, and near Colchester. The best land is such as will grow 
the best Clover. It must be free from stagnant water and well worked 
to a depth of 18 inches or thereabouts, not, however, bringing the sub¬ 
soil to the surface. Given such land, the question of profit depends on 
the cultivator. Some persons make a “ comfortable living ” by fruit 
•culture, and others fail. Mr. Robert Garrod, who is well known in 
■Colchester, has found the occupation satisfactory, and made his land at 
the least twice as profitable as that surrounding his enclosure. You 
cannot do better than consult him on the spot. 
Gardeners Out of Situations (A. B. B .').—Tour letter is very 
■well written, and we see no reason why you should hesitate to send 
contributions to the press on subjects of practical gardening with which 
you are acquainted, but it would be useless our publishing the sug¬ 
gestion which is the purport of your communication. It would simply 
divert attention from the main subject, and have no useful results. As 
you may see on page 160 of our last issue, there appears to be a Society 
in existence for afiording aid to unemployed gardeners, and if the rules 
are sent to us we ■will consider the advisability of making this Society 
■more widely known. It is scarcely necessary to say that we should only 
be too glad to give encouragement to any organisation established on 
■sound lines that would be of substantial benefit to the gardening 
community. 
Vine Eyes Falling- (J. M. II .').—As you followed Mr. Barron’s 
instruction it would, perhaps, have been better to have written to him. 
The elongation of growth is the result of heat and moisture, and the 
stoppage of that growth the consequence of the absence of roots. The 
elongation continued till the sap in the wood was exhausted, and by 
that time, or before, roots ought to have formed. Either the wood was 
not as it should be, the soil unsuitable, or the top heat too great. You 
■will observe the stress which the author of “ Vines and Vine Culture” 
lays on the necessity of early well-ripened wood for propagation. He is 
quite right, and we suspect the portions you selected were faulty, and 
not well stored -with starchy matter. Try again, with the best wood 
you can find, not small, hard, exhausted wood, but firm, well fed wood. 
Insert the eyes in pure turfy loam, crushed charcoal and sand, plunging 
the pots in a bottom heat of 80° to 85°, the temperature of the house 
•or pit ranging from 55° to 65°. The present condition of the samples 
does not enable us to determine their state when cut from the Vines. 
Orcbld and Gardenia Flower Buds Falling QS. M.). —Pro¬ 
bably you have kept the Orchids named too dry at the roots, and though 
at this time of year liberal supplies of water are dangerous, yet the 
other extreme is fatal to the flowers. Give them as light a position as 
possible, and keep the peat and moss well moistened. This may save 
those that remain upon the plants. The flower sent in the letter is too 
much crushed to be recognised. The Gardenias are suffering in a similar 
way, either because they have had a check at some time, or because the 
bottom heat is insufficient. They should be plunged in bottom heat 
that can be kept at 80°, with an atmospheric temperature about 10° 
lower. If the plants are syringed twice [daily the buds will develop 
quickly. If the pots are full of roots weak stimulants may be given, 
or, better still, a little artificial manure applied to the surface. In the 
later batches the roots must be kept steadily growing, or the flower buds 
when they appear will be puny if not deformed. In the majority of 
cases the deformity and falling of the flower buds of these plants is due 
to inactivity of their roots, and strong supplies of liquid manure during 
the time root action is defective. Strong insecticides will also cause the 
same results when applied as the buds are forming. 
Profitable Flowers (IF. id). — There is a good demand for 
Bouvardias, but by far the best prices are obtained in provincial towns. 
The London markets would appear to be well supplied with them, large 
quantities being grown in Kent and Sussex especially, and as a conse¬ 
quence prices are low, from 3d. to 6d. per dozen sprays being all that 
can be obtained. Unless exceptionally well grown, whole houses being 
given up to them for a few weeks, they do not pay well at the London 
prices, but in the principal provincial towns it not unfrequently happens 
the prices range from Is. to 23. per dozen, and in this case Bouvardias 
are decidedly profitable. The doubles are the best for the purpose, as 
although the singles are the most beautiful they are not serviceable 
enough for the markets. The two favourites are A. Neuner (white) and 
President Garfield (pink), and a trial might well be given to Thomas 
Meehan (double scarlet) and Victor Lemoine (bright scarlet), this also 
being a double-flowering variety. For local purposes we can recom¬ 
mend Vreelandi (pure white), Candidissima (an improved Jasminoides), 
Hazzler (rich scarlet), and the newer President Cleveland (bright 
scarlet), these being very floriferous single varieties. If not unduly 
shaded by the Marechal Niel Rose, an intermediate temnerature being 
maintained, the Bouvardias would succeed far better than semi-double 
Zonal Pelargoniums, the latter, though flowering freely in heat, being 
most impatient of shade. For the markets you cannot have any better 
Pelargoniums than F. V. Raspail and La Cygne, the demand being 
greatest for these at Christmas, any scarlet and white flowers selling 
well at that time. Further hints upon Bouvardias, Zonal Pelargoniums, 
and other flowers for the markets will duly appear in our columns. 
Coelog-yne crlstata (^Floral ),—Your best plan is to allow the 
material about the roots to become moderately dry, then turn the plant 
out of the pan and carefully work all the soil from amongst the roots. 
If you cannot do this with the fingers without the destruction of large 
quantities of roots, wash the soil from amongst the roots with tepid 
water ; after this allow the plant to drain thoroughly, and then break 
it into pieces. If the pseudo-bulbs are crowded, we should trace out the 
rhizomes until the whole is broken up. On each rhizome there may be 
two or three leads. Some of these would be cut just in front of each 
lead, and all small pseudo-bulbs with a lead laid on one side. Even 
small ones that have no lead would be taken from those rhizomes that 
have large flowering pseudo-bulbs at the end. Those having three or 
four good leads need not be cut in all cases, they can be secured by 
means of a few pegs in the pot or pan. By breaking up the plant 
thoroughly, all old material is removed from amongst the roots. The 
pseudo-bulbs can then be sorted into three sizes, so that the largest, 
moderate sized, and small ones can be potted by themselves, while 
those that have to make back breaks should also be kept alone. Another 
plan is to work from amongst the roots a portion of the compost only, 
and then to cut the rhizomes and break the plant up into a. certain 
number of portions, suitable in size to the pans or pots they are to occupy. 
This disturbs the plant less than the other method ; but there are 
objections to it, which warrant us in advising you to follow the other 
system. The first is that a portion of decayed or decaying compost is 
left about the roots of the plants. Another objection is leaving the 
pseudo-bulbs in a more or less crowded condition and of various sizes. 
In potting the pots must be one-third filled with drainage, and over this 
a little moss or rough fibry peat can be placed, then fill the pot or pan 
with the compost in which the plants are to be potted, and which may 
consist of fibry peat and charcoal, or crocks, both may be used. 
Living sphagnum moss may be reserved for the surface. If you com¬ 
mence towards one side of the pot or pan you can gradually raise them 
to the centre, pressing the compost firmly about them. A few wire 
pegs may be necessary to secure them in their proper position. The 
rhizomes must not be buried below the surface. After the pseudo-bulbs 
have been placed evenly over the pots, you can make them firm by 
pressing portions of peat amongst them and at the sides of the pots. 
Your plant can be attended to at once, and should be placed afterwards 
in brisk moist heat. Dew the foliage with tepid water once or twice 
daily according to the weather until growth is commencing, when 
the pent may be surfaced with moss. At first, until they begin growing, 
water should be given carefully. Shade the plants from the sun after 
they have been broken up. Old pseudo-bulbs that have to make back 
breaks will have few roots of any value, and the rhizomes should be 
pegged on the surface of the peat. 
Hardy Plants (^Town Garden ).—We know of no book of the 
nature which you suggest that would be likely to help materially, and 
we readily give the information you require. Snowdrops, Crocuses, 
Hyacinths, and Narcissus of various kinds would do in the position you 
describe, and should be planted in October. Liliums candidum, 
tygrinum, californicum, testaceum, and, if not too shaded, auratum. 
The latter can be planted now, the first and fourth in August after they 
have flowered, the others in October. The two first are the most useful 
and certain. Myosotis and Daisies would grow well amongst these for 
spring flowering. Auriculas, Primroses, and Polyanthus would also 
thrive in the shadiest place. These can be raised from seed sown in 
March and April, and grown outside anywhere in the shade until 
autumn, when they should be planted where they are to flower, or 
where they are to remain. The Auriculas are best taken up after flowering 
and replanted again where they are to flower towards the end of Sep¬ 
tember or early in October ; in the meantime they would do in any 
shady corner. German Irises of various kinds do splendidly in shady 
positions, and may be planted now or at almost any season of the 
year, but the best time is just before they start into growth. English 
and Spanish Iris also do well. They take up very little room, and some 
of the flowers are most beautiful. These are deciduous, and should be 
planted in autumn. The common white garden Pink will do well, and 
may be planted now. Delphiniums are good as tall plants, and can be 
raised from seed sown outside in April, or plants may be obtained and 
planted until the end of March. Phloxes, if not too shady, would 
flower profusely; plants of these should be obtained and planted 
during the next few weeks. Anemone japonica and its white form 
alba (Honorine Jobert) will succeed if the position is fairly open. 
These may be planted any time from October until April, the earlier the 
better if they are to flower the first season. Geum coccineum may be 
raised from seed, and strong plants put out during showery weather in 
spring soon commence flowering. In the lightest position Asters novae 
anglim, novi belgi, and several others would flourish, and should be 
planted in spring. Campanula persicifolia, with its variety alba and 
flore pleno, also C. glomerata, and its white form alba, as well as C. 
Hosti, if they are not too much shaded, will do well. These may be 
planted any time during the spring. Dielytra spectabilis, Doronicum 
austriacum, Funkias in variety, Helenium pumilum, H. Hooperi, and 
any of the varieties of Hypericum. Lily of the Valley can be planted 
after flowering, or any time from October to March. Lychnis chalce- 
donica and alba raised from seed sown at the end of March or the first 
week in April. Q3nothera Youngi and macrocarpa raised from seed. 
Rudbeckia Newmani, R. Drummondi, and Senecio, Doronicum will 
also succeed. IVhere particulars are not given plants should be ob¬ 
tained and planted during the last week in March or early in tbe follow- 
inj; month. The ground where they are to be planted should be deeply 
du^ auu liberally manured. 
