206 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Mar. U 6. 1890. 
using great care and i'ldgtnent in the use of it. In conclusion Mr. Wise 
expressed pleasure that that meeting had been held, and said that what 
was necessary was that they should meet together, and tell each other 
the results of their experiments. (Hear, hear). In support of this he 
had received a letter from Miss Ormerod, in which she expressed the 
opinion that some arrangement might be made by which meetings 
might be held and experiments made. She would be glad to act as 
entomologist, and would be happy to subscribe £10 to the object. 
(Applause). 
A Moth Tbap. 
Mr. T. W. Beach then exhibited a lamp which was designed to 
catch the male moth. This was lighted at night, and a large shade at 
the top, and similar projection at the bottom, were well greased. The 
result is that when a moth flies against the glass it either flies up or 
(Sown, and in either case is caught. This lamp, Mr, Beach explained, 
has been found very useful on dark nights. 
A Committee Formed, 
The Mayor said he did not think it would be wise for them to prolong 
that meeting, as they had an important meeting in the afternoon. He, 
however, had a resolution to read to them. It was to the effect that a 
Committee of six fruit growers from different localities should be 
appointed to make experiments and report to the future Conference, 
and that Miss Ormerod’s offer to act as entomologist and her promised 
donation be gratefully accepted.—(A^iv^Aaw Journal.') 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Apricots. —Once more the time has arrived for affording some kind 
of protection to the Apricots. The trees are unusually well set with 
fruit buds, the only drawback being the forward state of these. Already 
•some flowers are expanded, and a few genial days will bring the trees 
into full bloom. In addition to being the earliest among hardy fruits to 
expand their flowers they are also, unfortunately, nearly or quite the 
most delicate, very little frost sufficing to spoil the prospect of a good 
crop. Glazed copings and blinds of some kind running on rods 
euspended to the framework of coping, and reaching down to rings 
(running on a wire strained to stakes about 30 inches from the wall, is 
iby far the best 8)stem of protecting the trees. By a very simple device 
the blinds can be opened out or closed at will, and when cold frosty or 
easterly winds prevail it is mistake not to leave them open in the day 
■time as well as during every cold night, the trees sustaining no injury 
from the slight shade caused, while it is very certain they are benefited 
by the protection afforded. A glass coping may well be set out not less 
than 30 inches from the wall, but if boards are substituted temporarily 
these ought not to be more than 12 inches wide. Frigi domo, cotton or 
canvas blinds, can be and often are used in connection with board 
copings with the best results. Failing either of the preceding con¬ 
veniences some other protective measures must be devised, as it is rarely 
.possible to secure a crop from unprotected trees. Where there are only 
a very few trees it ought not to be thought too much trouble to cover 
these with mats every night, these being removed as soon as the frost is 
off in the morning. Fish nets doubled or trebled and hung perma¬ 
nently over the trees will preserve the bloom from moderately severe 
frosts, and so also will branches of half dead Spruce Fir, these being 
nailed or otherwise firmly secured to poles fixed against the wall. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —These also are much too forward, 
those kept closely fixed to the walls especially so, but even the buds on 
most of the branches purposely, loosened and allowed to swing clear of 
the walls are also showing colour, and will soon expand. This being so 
it is unwise to longer delay pruning and tying, or nailing as the case 
may be. There never was a greater promise of abundance of fruit on 
these trees, quite late formed and apparently unripe shoots being well 
furnished with large well formed flower buds. The appearance of the 
trees ought to plainly denote what should be cut out, it being very 
evident that the fruit of Peaches and Nectarines is borne princinally on 
the young wood formed last season ; this therefore must be reserved as 
much as possible consistent with thinly training, those badly placed, and 
all useless old and dead wood being cut cleanly out. In many instances 
it is advisable to cut some old wood with young shoots attached well 
back to strong young shoots ; this, in addition to giving the latter more 
room, also serving to keep the centre of the tree properly furnished with 
good bearing wo<5i. The young wood on trees under glass is usually 
shortened back to a good triple or wood bud, but this practice is not, as 
a rule, to be commended for open wall trees, both because appearances 
are deceptive, and also on account of leading growths being often lost. 
Ray in all that are sound and ripened to their full length, and rather 
more thickly than is advisable under glass, or say about 3 inches apart. 
Avoid bruising the trees in any way, and carefully remove all nails 
and shreds that are unduly pressing against or confining the growths, or 
otherwise their loss by gumming will be the inevitable result. 
\0UNG Peach Trees. —In many gardens Peach and Nectarine 
■trees are rather short lived, and the prudent cultivator prepares for any 
such contingency by preparing young trees to take their place. Not a 
few prefer to plant maidens or quite young unpruned trees, and these 
should at once be cut back to just below where they have branched 
strongly, or to within about 9 inches of the point of union with the 
stock. Under ordinarily favourable circumstances from four to six well 
placed shoots ought to be formed on trees thus pruned, these being at 
the spring pruning shortened back to a length of about 12 inches. Any 
of a similar size and age newly received from the nurseries to be simi¬ 
larly treated, and in either case sufficient branches ought to be obtained 
to lay the foundation of a good tree. What are known as trained trees, 
these having been twice cut back by either nurserymen or private 
growers, should be less freely pruned ; in fact those already well esta¬ 
blished in a not over-rich border, will this season be fairly well furnished 
with fruit buds, and the weakest of the shoots ought to be reduced to 
about half their length, and the more vigorous left to two-thirds of their 
length, the cut being made to a well placed wood bud in each instance. 
Protectincj Various Fruit Trees. —Peach and Nectarine trees, 
ought especially to be given some kind of protection while in flower, 
and Plums, Pears, and Cherries well repay for similar attention.- The 
Peaches and Pears are the most forward, the latter being crowded with 
fine buds, many of which are bursting open. A moderately severe frost 
may in one night spoil the work of one, or it may be several seasons, and 
those responsible may regret when too late they did not contrive to fix 
some kind of protection over the trees. Not a yard of fish netting 
should be left where stored, and those who are prudent will have already 
laid in their stock of new netting. Scrim canvas is very cheap, and 
various shading and protecting materials are frequently advertised also 
at comparatively low rates. Poles or long iron rods are indispensable, 
as it is of the greatest importance that the netting or other material 
used should be firmly fixed well clear of the trees, or in windy weather 
it may easily do more harm than good. For all wall trees narrow 
coping boards are of good service, and if the long poles are arranged 
about 4 feet apart, firmly fixed to the boards, and let into the ground 
from 2 feet to 3 feet of the wall, the protecting material will as a rule 
be kept quite clear of the trees. It is by no means a difficult matter to 
protect even moderately large pyramid and bush trees, espaliers and' 
cordons being more easily covered. The poles for the former may be 
made to meet over the centre, the covering somewhat resembling a bell¬ 
shaped tent, while that fixed over long thin trees may be more nearly 
after the model of a cloth when suspended over a hayrick. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earliest Forced House. —The fruit 
will soon have completed the first swelling and will enter on the stoning 
process. If the thinning has been carefully attended to there will be 
little more than the necessary quantity—namely, one fruit to every 
square foot of trellis covered by the trees. More Nectarines are usually 
left, which accounts for their being undersized as compared with 
Peaches. If there is more fruit than specified above, remove the 
smallest. There is no danger of the fruit falling during stoning, pro¬ 
vided the wood was well ripened last season, and the trees are not un¬ 
necessarily taxed by too many fruits. During the stoning process keep 
the temperature as equable as possible, as a sudden check by draughts 
of cold air in the daytime and too high a temperature in the night may 
prove disastrous. The night temperature may range from 60° to 65°, 
but 5° less will be safer in severe weather, and in the daytime 70° to 
75° with sun heat, and about 65° by artificial,means when the atmo¬ 
sphere outside is cold and the sky overcast. See that the growing shoots 
are secured to the trellis as they advance, keeping those retained to 
attract the sap past the fruit stopped at the second or third joint. 
Syringe with water of the same temperature as the house to keep the 
trees free from red spider, and if aphides or thrips appear fumigate 
carefully when the foliage is dry. For destroying the insects named 
nothing is better than a solution of softsoap, 2 ozs. to the gallon of tepid 
water. Syringing is apt to cause deception as to the state of the border. 
The surface may be wet, whilst the soil beneath may be too dry ; but 
give good supplies, and if the trees are weak apply diluted liquid manure 
in a tepid state. 
Second Early Forced House. —Disbud gradually, removing the 
strongest and ill-placed shoots and have all the leading shoots tied 
down, taking care not to overcrowd them. Thin the fruits by degrees, 
and where it has set thickly extra attention will be required, removing 
those on the under side of the trellis or where badly placed, but leave 
those that are well exposed to light and air until they indicate by free 
swelling the necessity for further reduction, then remove the smallest. 
Syringe the trees early during fine days, and ventilate early during 
favourable weather. The temperature may range from 55° to 60° at 
night and 60° to 65° by day, ventilating at the latter temperature and 
closing the house when the heat is decreasing, allowing an advance of 
5° to 10° from sun heat. 
Trees Started Early in February. —The trees are now in flower or 
well advanced. As there are usually more flowers than are needed, all 
those on the under side of the shoots should be removed by drawing the 
hand the reverse way of the growths, and even yet there may be more 
than will be required for the crop, therefore it may be necessary to still 
further thin the blossom where most crowded, especially on the weaker 
shoots. Maintain the night temperature at 60° to 55°, and 55° by day 
with a little ventilation, as a close atmosphere is fatal to a good set. 
Ventilate freely above 55°, and allow an advance to 65° with sun 
heat. Fertilise the blossoms in the early part of fine days, either shaking 
the trellis or brushing the flowers with a camel’s-hair brush when the 
pollen of the individual flower is ripe. Syringing must cease whilst the 
