216 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
t March 13, 189(7. 
the premier position has throuahout been fiercely conteste(i. For the 
first four years Gaiety took the lead, but in 1887 had to give way to 
Mrs. Saunders. In the next analysis they were bracketed as equal, 
and now Mrs. Saunders once more proceeds to the front. The 
Eev. J. B. M. Camm has also proved very constant, never dropping far 
behind these two well matched rivals. Mrs. Saunders, Duchess of 
Albany and Hugh Austin were particularly well shown, but not so 
Gaiety, Chorister, Fanny Sturt, John Forbes and General Gordon, which 
were staged much less frequently than usual. 
There are four 1886 Fancies in the analysis, Henry Eckford, which 
has already risen to No. 6; Eric Fisher, which has not improved 
on its previous position, being still at No. 23 ; Frank Pearce (No. 24) 
which appears on the list for the first time, and Pelican, which has 
dropped to the very bottom of it. 
The year 1887 is represented by Edmund Boston at No. 22 and 
Prince Henry at No. 24, while Dorothy, the sole representative of 1888, 
has already mounted to No. 18. 
Pompon, Cactus and Single varieties at the 1889 exhibition of the 
National Dahlia Society. Pompon.—Over fifty sorts were staged in all. 
Those shown four or more times arrange themselves as follows : E. F. 
Junker, Darkness, Favourite, Rosalie, Golden Gem, Gem, Little Duchess, 
Cupid, Isabel, Leila, White Aster, Admiration, Dora, Guiding Star, Lady 
Blanche and Whisper. 
Cactus and Decorative.—More than thirty kinds were exhibited, 
but only the following were found in two or more stands. Mrs. 
Hawkins, Empress of India, Amphion, Charming Bride, Constance, 
Juarezii, Panthea, Lady Marsham, Cochineal, William Rayner, 4nnie 
Harvey, Beauty of Brentwood, Henry Patrick and Mrs. Tait. Single.— 
Nearly forty varieties were shown in the different stands, but only ten 
were represented by more than a single fiower—namely, Amos Perry, 
Formosa, Miss Henshaw, Sunningdale White, Enchantment, Hugo, 
Marion Hood, Sunningdale Yellow, Victory, and White Queen. 
It will thus be seen that the Cactus an(i Single Dahlias are as yet 
scarcely ripe for tabulation. With more classes devoted to them in 
the schedule, and stronger competition, somewhat better results may 
be hoped for another year.—E. M., Berliliamjntead. 
Plants in a sickly condition can soon be detected by the 
yellow appearance of their foliage, which may have resulted 
from too much water and a soddened condition of the soil about 
their roots. The sooner plants in an unsatisfactory state receive 
attention the better. The most certain method of restoring them is 
to wash from their roots all decaying matter in tepid water, and then 
cut away dead and decaying roots and suspend them in a warm 
moist atmosphere from the roof in a sloping position, so that water 
from the syringe will not lodge in the axils of their leaves. "W hen 
subjected to this treatment it is necessary to syringe the plants 
once or twice daily, according to the weather. When they com¬ 
mence the formation of new roots the plants may be placed in 
pots or baskets, whichever are most convenient and most likely to 
meet the requirements of the cultivators. Another plan, and an 
excellent one, is to return them to pots after the roots have been 
washed and trimmed. The pot should be drained in the usual 
way, half full, and the remaining space to within an inch of the 
lim filled with large pieces of crock and charcoal. This will steady 
the plant, and keep it in position until new roots commence form¬ 
ing. It will be necessary to syringe the pot occasionally, or pour 
tepid water into it to keep moisture about the plant. Unless the 
plants are in an unsatisfactory condition they will soon emit fresh 
roots and re-establish themselves. Aerides and Saccolabiums that 
are in poor condition may have the same treatment. 
Potting Vanda?, Aeeides and Saccolabiums. 
These may now be top-dressed or repotted as occasion requires. 
If the plants need larger pots some care is requisite. The old 
material should be picked out from amongst the roots, and if the 
plant cannot be lifted out of the old pot it should be carefully broken, 
as some of the roots will be clinging to its sides. These should not 
be disturbed, the portions of pot clinging to the roots being placed 
into the larger pot. The space to within an inch of the rim can be 
filled with crocks, large pieces at the base, gradually reducing their 
size until a layer of small pieces can be placed on the top. When 
the plants are small crocks only are used, but when 8, 10-inch, 
or larger pots are employed we prefer a fair proportion of 
charcoal in good sized lumps. If a plant is turned out and the 
roots are found to cling to the crocks only charcoal is not again 
used, the space being filled with crocks. It may here be stated 
that no peat is used for these plants. We prefer clean living 
sphagnum. This when cleared of all rubbish should be cut with 
shears and pressed moderately firm in the pot, slightly raising it' 
above the rim. On the surface should be placed a thin layer (of 
moss that has been selected, consisting of growing portions. This 
may be encouraged to grow by syringing it gently. Care is needed , 
in (loing this, for the moss may be made too wet at this early stage,. 
Inexperienced growers would act wisely in deferring the final sur¬ 
facing until growth is active and liberal supplies of water ar& 
beneficial. 
Top-dressing. 
Where plants do not need larger pots and the drainage is per¬ 
fectly clean the whole of the moss in which they have beeir 
growing during the past twelve months should be removed, 
is important where the moss used is not of the best quality and 
of a nature to decay quickly, which some of it will do in less than 
one season. If the moss used has been really good only a thin 
surfacing will be needed. But when the least sign of decay can 
be observed it should be removed. Many plants are brought into 
an unhealthy condition through negligence of these matters. 
When it is removed supply fresh exactly the same as if the plants 
were repotted.— Orchid Grower, 
THE ROTATION OF CROPS. 
In the cultivation of the ground, whether it be in the garden or 
on the farm, it is necessary that proper attention be paid to a 
regular rotation of crops, this being one of the first and principal 
features of good management. By a rotation of perennial crops: 
-—such as Raspberries, Currants, and Gooseberries—the ground to* 
a certain degree is renewed and rested, or at the least very muchi 
improved. The above mentioned need not occupy a certain piece 
of ground above twelve years, or under three. This, with trench¬ 
ing for the principal autumn crops of Brassicas, wifi, keep the 
ground in good order, and with no loss of space. In all gardens- 
new plantations should be made annually, which will throw a 
certain portion of the ground into rotation. All crops for a few 
years will be found to thrive well on newly turned up maiden soil,, 
but would degenerate in a few years unless supplied with fre.sh soil„ 
This holds good with ‘‘Ex-Farmer,” on page 126, as grasses must 
eventually give way to other plants if not properly provided for.. 
As far as practicable rotation should be provided for in all gardens, 
as by keeping all the Brassicas, Legumes, bulbs, and other light 
crops in separate portions, each to follow in regular succession ; not 
only would it give the garden a better appearance, but to a certain 
measure would produce the necessary change for their well doing.. 
All plants draw their own peculiar substance from the soil, so that 
a piece of ground which has nourished one crop may be found- 
sufficient for the well-doing of another of a different kind. A plant- 
may be found in abundance in certain fields or woods for a number 
of years, but in course of time, unless the soil be replenished, will 
wholly disappear. 
Nothing can relieve the soil more than a regular rotation of 
crops if carried out judiciously, so that the proper plants may: 
succeed each other. For example, take a quarter of Asparagus, the- 
roots of which are large and have penetrated to a great depth, and 
which have been in the same place for a number of years, and im 
consequence have exhausted the soil and ceased to thrive. If 
instead of replanting with young roots of the same kind the ground 
be cropped with plants, the roots of which do not run too deep, 
they will find sufficient nourishment of a different kind from that 
necessary for the former crop, or absorb that which the roots were 
too deep to benefit by. Perhaps the general richness of the gardens,, 
by much manure been used for the production of vegetables, more 
attention has been paid to the courses of cropping on the farm than 
in the garden, but the same principles are applicable to both. 
There are, however, many circumstances to prevent its being 
accomplished in the garden so effectively as in the-fields—viz., the 
smallness of the portions allotted to this object, the number to be 
produced, and their great similarity to each other.—A. 
FRITILLARIA RACEMOSA. 
For very many years there has been growing in a border under 
the south-west wall of the Oxford Botanic Garden a clump of 
modest dimensions of an uncommon Fritillaria, named F. racemosa j 
that forms the subject of these notes. Writing from memory 
renders it difficult to describe accurately the colour of the flowers, 
but some idea may be formed by stating that the 8mooth-surface(i 
pet ils are of a purple shade of chocolate, splashed or streaked and 
