Ma-oh 13, 1S9\ ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
229 
Broad Beans. —The December sown Mazagans are up and healthy. 
Their produce will be very acceptable, but we like the Longpod type 
better for a second or main crop, and these may now be sown in rows 
feet apart in the strongest soil in the garden, and do not fail to give 
them plenty of manure if long succulent pods are desired. 
Early Celery. —The seed sown some weeks ago has produced 
plants that are now ready for pricking out. These may be inserted in 
shallow boxes, but the best way is to transplant them 2 inches or 3 inches 
apart in free soil on a firm, gentle, hotbed, and protect with glass ; 
water immediately, shade from bright sunshine for a few days, 
keep them sturdy by judicious ventilation, never allow them to suffer 
by want of water, and serviceable plants will be the result. 
Brussels Sprouts. —The present is a good time to sow in the 
open for the main crop. The plants will be more useful next winter 
than those sown under glass, and which will button in August. The 
seed may be sown broadcast thinly and covered to the depth of half an 
inch. 
PLiNT HOUSES. 
Sertolonias .—Young plants that were raised from cuttings in 
autumn and have been well preserved through the winter, may now be 
placed in 4-inch pots. Bertolonias grow well in a compost of peat 
and sphagnum in equal proportions with the addition of sand, covering 
the surface with a thin layer of moss. In potting slightly raise the 
plants above the rim of the pots, so that a pair of good leaves rest on 
the surface of the compost. No harm will be done by the removal of 
a pair or two of small leaves at the base, as roots will be produced from 
the stem, and larger foliage will result. In the majority of ordinary 
stove structures it will be necessary to grow the plants under bell- 
glasses, handlights, or in a frame so that they can be kept close and 
moist. It is necessary to tilt the lights daily, if only for a short time, 
to prevent the atmosphere from becoming stagnant. The tops from old 
plants or any side shoots that are upon them may now be rooted. The 
cuttings may be inserted singly in small pots in the compost advised 
above. Place a good pinch of sand in the centre to surround each cut¬ 
ting. They will soon root in brisk bottom heat in the propagating 
frame if kept close and shaded from the sun. 
Sonerilas .—To have pans and pots of these in good condition cut¬ 
tings must be inserted at once. They root freely in the propagating 
frame in sandy soil or, better still, all sand. They may be inserted 
thickly together in pots or pans, and transplanted into others as soon as 
they are rooted. They do well in the compost pdvised for Bertolonias, 
and will flourish in any stove where the atmosphere is close and moist, 
if a shady position is found for them. They are effective growing 
amongst the moss in pots of Vandas, Aerides, and other Orchids of a 
similar nature. 
Fittonias ,—A few good pans of these are effective in the stove, and 
should find a place where the object is to maintain this structure at¬ 
tractive throughout the season. For this purpose insert cuttings at 
once. They root freely in any close, moist and shady position if placed 
amongst chopped sphagnum moss and sand. When well rooted plant 
them in the pans in w'hich they are to grow. They are most effective 
when well elevated in the centre. They grow luxuriantly in the com¬ 
post advised for Bertolonias. VVhere small plants for various forms of 
decoration are in demand few surpass these in beauty when mixed with 
Mosses and small Ferns. 
Panicum Cuttings should b3 rootel in quantity, for 
this Panicum is most effective in baskets suspended from the roof and 
for the margin of the stage. It grows so rapidly when once started and 
given favourable conditions, that in a few months it will furnish the 
whole space between the stage and floor of the house. The cuttings 
may be inserted in the pots in which they are to grow. The pots may 
be filled with equal parts of loam and leaf mould, with the addition of 
sand and one-seventh of manure. A good layer of sand should be 
placed on the surface. Those for baskets and other positions may be 
inserted in pans and transplanted when they are rooted. They root 
best in a close propagating frame. 
Selaqinella ccesia .—Associates admirably with Panicum variegatura, 
and it would be impossible to produce a more pleasing effect than the 
two plants growing together alternately. The Selaginella may be in 
slightly the larger pots of the two, or before the close of the season it is 
low by the side of the other. They may be divided and started into 
growth, either in the stove or any structure, until they are sufficiently 
ornamental for placing in a permanent position. Equal parts of loam 
and leaf mould, with the addition of sand, form a suitable compost. 
Where Orchids are grown, and fine peat is plentiful, it may be used at 
the rate of one-third with the loam and leaf mould without the slightest 
risk of the plants not doing well. 
Anthvrium Awlreanum .—Plants that have grown tall may be cut 
into lengths that have one good eye, and inserted singly in small pots in 
sphagnum moss and sand. The old foliage should remain on the pieces 
until they are rooted and commence growing, when they can be removed. 
Place a good pinch of sand at the base of each, and plunge the pots 
containing them in brisk heat. Portions of the stem root freely, and by 
autumn will make strong flowering plants. Throughout the autumn 
and winter the bright scarlet spathes are most effective. The old 
“ stool ” if not disturbed will soon make five or six shoots from the 
base, and in two years will develope into a fine large specimen. Propa¬ 
gate only from the best varieties. Anthuriums are handsome when 
secured to upright pillars used for the support of the roof. 
I 
1 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
The weather since February 23rd has been cold and frosty. 
The mean temperature up till March 2nd was 27^° Fahr. The 
lowest temperature since winter commenced occurred on the morn¬ 
ing of March 2ad, the thermometer indicating 22° frost, standing 
at 10°. So low a temperature after so much mildness has had a 
telling effect on nuclei or weak stocks of bees. I have been an 
eye-witness to many that tided over the winter well until that 
morning, when they succumbed. The dead bees in every case were 
located on the opposite side from the honey, but there is nothing 
new in that. AVhat I wish to impress upon beginners is the condi¬ 
tion in which hives should be wintered. It will be observed the 
bees did not die through want of food being in the hive, but 
through being in the wrong part of it. I have as weak hives living 
as those that are dead. They live because in the fall I packed the 
honeycombs all on one side, compelling the bees to cluster with the.- 
honey on one side. The bees in deep combs naturally leave pas¬ 
sages, so that a freer communication from one comb to another is 
created for their own conveniences. The Americans tried to- 
improve upon this, and drilled holes in a straight line, instead of 
the zigzag form of the bees, and many in this country imitated the 
American plan. Combs so drilled aggravate disaster to bees, a& 
they create a direct draught, which lowers the atmosphere and so 
benumbs the bees that it is impossible for them to move about in 
search of food, especially when they have been advancing to the.: 
side with the least quantity of honey. Bees, although few in num¬ 
ber, will not die if the honey is all on the one side ; but it is better 
if it is overhead. I never knew a hive of bees to perish from want 
when the honey was above them, nor do I believe they ever wiU, 
It is the natural place for it, not only in winter but at all times, 
and the proper hive for that is the storifying one. 
Autumn-g.atiiered Pollen. 
I have stated often that I never had a hive that suffered from 
being pollen-bound, nor do I believe I ever shall. Modern bee¬ 
keepers have discovered that there is some fatality in having a good 
supply of pollen in the hives during winter, and advise removing 
it. When I see a plant under my management not growing as I 
wish I try to discover the cause, and then adopt the remedy. When 
bees show signs of something wrong I know that I have bungled, 
and arrange matters so that the bees can act according to their 
instinct as well as to my profit. To remove pollen-laden combs 
from a hive in autumn is a simple mode of frustrating the advance 
of bees at the most important season relative to the profit of bee¬ 
keepers. I question if the advocates for removing pollen from 
hives in autumn can give a satisfactory answer why they do so, or 
the advantages gained. Some of my hives that in autumn had an 
extra supply of pollen are far advanced, and if the weather is 
favourable are sure to be profitable. Had I removed the pollen in 
autumn the eggs that have matured into young bees would have 
been all destroyed. 
Floavers for Honey'. 
“I intend starting bee-keeping this summer, and should be glad 
to knoAV what flowers and shrubs are most suitable for the produc¬ 
tion of honey. Any hints as to the best kind of hive for a beginner- 
would also be appreciated. —W. J. S.” 
The above question covers by far too wide a range to le: 
answered satisfactorily. If the extent of the ground had been 
stated a selection could have been better given. It is only where 
there is a good extent that honey producing flowers are profitable 
— i.e., where bees can gather surplus, and CloA'er is the first and 
best. Beans are good for honey, and where a demand for the seed 
