268 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
March 27, 1890. 
Briefly noting tte classes for competing exhibits we first come to the 
bulbs, and we find that with twelve Hyacinths Mr. J. Douglas, gar¬ 
dener to Mrs. Whitbourn, Great Gearies, Ilford, was awarded the premier 
prize for exeellent plants with very large spikes, the best varieties being 
The Sultan, Electra, La Grandesse, Mont Blanc, Vuurbaak, Czar Peter, 
King of the Blues, and Souvenir de J. H. Veen. Mr. H. Eason, gar¬ 
dener to B. Noakes, Esq., Hope Cottage, Highgate, was second, and Mr. 
K. Scott, gardener to Miss Foster, The Holme, Regent’s Park, third, with 
smaller plants. Messrs. Douglas & Eason were the prizewinners with 
Tulips, and Messrs. H. Williams, Douglas, and Scott were the exhibitors 
of Narcissi. Messrs. Paul k Son, J. Douglas, and R. Butler were the 
prizetakers for Amaryllises, all showing well. Cyclamens from Messrs. 
D. Phillips, the St. George’s Nursery Company, and C. Nunn were well 
flowered as regards the two first-named. 
Azaleas were bright and fairly good for the season. Messrs. Eason, 
Nunn, and Scott were the leading exhibitors in one class, and Messrs. 
R. Wells, Sydenham, and H. James in another, the plants of moderate 
size in each case. For six Deutzias Mr. Douglas was first, Mr. H. Eason 
being second with fine plants nearly equal to the first, and the Judges 
had some diflSculty in determining their relative order. Messrs. Paul 
and Son, Cheshunt, were first in the two classes for hardy bulbs and 
hardy herbaceous plants, showing choice and interesting collections. 
Miscellaneous E.xhibits. 
Medals of various grades were awarded for the following exhibits : 
—Messrs. James Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, sent a group of Amaryllises, 
comprising some fine new varieties. Messrs. B. S. Williams & Son, 
Upper Holloway, had a similarly handsome group to that at the Drill 
Hall, Westminster, on the previous day, with some additions, Messrs. 
Laing & Sons, Forest Hill, showed a large miscellaneous group of 
plants. Orchids, Palms, Ferns, Azaleas, and Clivias predominating. 
Messrs. Barr & Son, Covent Garden, had a large collection of 
Daffodils and h.ardy flowers. Messrs. Cannell & Sons, Swanley, showed 
Zonal Pelargoniums and double Cinerarias. The St. George’s Nursery 
Company, Hanwell, had a large group of Cyclamens. Mr. J. James, 
Farnham Royal, showed a group of Cinerarias, and Mr. T. S. Ware, 
Tottenham, a grand collection of Daffodils. 
Messrs. Paul & Son, Cheshunt, were the premier exhibitors of six 
Roses in pots, and they also had a large general non-competing collec¬ 
tion of Roses. Messrs. H. Williams & Sons, Finehley, showed a large 
group of Hyacinths, Tulips, Spirseas, and Narcissus. 
Messrs. Wm. Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, had an extensive col¬ 
lection of Camellia blooms, representing all the leading varieties. 
Mr. Henry Bennett, Shepperton, had a box of the pedigree Tea Bose 
Princess Beatrice, extremely fragrant, fresh, and beautiful. Messrs. 
Cutbush & Son, Highgate, contributed a group of Epacrises and mis¬ 
cellaneous greenhouse plants. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Earliest House. —The fermenting materials should be 
removed from the house before the berries commence colouring, re¬ 
taining, however, about a couple of inches thickness as a mulch, and 
giving the inside border a thorough soaking with tepid liquid manure. 
After the Grapes commence colouring ventilate as freely as possible, and 
gradually reduce the atmospheric moisture. The temperature should 
be well maintained in the daytime, 70° to 75°, with 10° to 15° rise from 
sun heat, allowing the temperature to fall through the night to 65° or 
even 70° on cold nights. 
Vines in Flower.—A. steady circulation of warm rather dry air 
where Vines are in flower, with a temperature of 70° to 75° for Muscats 
and 5° less for Black Hamburghs, allowing an advance of 10° to 15° 
from sun heat, are essential. All shy-setting varieties should be fertilised 
artificially, dusting the bunches carefully with a camel’s-hair brush, 
applying pollen from the free-setting varieties to the stigmas of the shy¬ 
setting sorts. We find it a good plan to brush over the bunches of the 
latter first, and then apply the pollen with another brush, this in both 
cases being used lightly. 
I)ishxidding.— T)o not attempt this until the bunches appear in the 
points of the shoots, and then it must not be done in a hurry, nor a 
large reduction made at a time, but proceed gradually and rationally, so 
as to give as little eheck as possible. Retain no more growth than will 
have full exposure to light, as crowding the foliage is one of the chief 
causes of disaster in Vine culture. 
Wherever there is space allow the shoots with fruit to 
extend three or four leaves beyond the bunches before taking out their 
points. The laterals from the leaves below the bunches may be rubbed 
off, or they should be pinched at the first joint, but those above the 
fruit may be allowed to extend until the available space is fairly fur¬ 
nished, then pinch them and keep them within bounds afterwards by 
pinching to each joint of growth as made. 
Remove all duplicate bunches before they flower, as it is 
hardly likely one bunch well set well and the others indifferently. 
Free setting varieties may have the berries thinned as soon as they are 
out of flower, but Muscats and other shy setters should not be thinned 
until it is seen which berries have been properly fertilised. Instructions 
for thinning are extremely difficult to give, as the berries vary con¬ 
siderably in size in different varieties, and even different individuals of 
the s.>me variety. Every berry should have room to swell without 
becoming wedged, and yet leave sufficient berries to ensure the bunch 
retaining its form when cut. 
Watering, Feeding, Mulching .—From the time Vines are started 
there must not be any l.aek of moisture at the roots. It is not practi¬ 
cable to say how often the Vines should be watered through the borders 
being so variable in dimensions in depth and in their formation, as well 
as occupation with roots. A narrow border will need watering twice 
as often as one double the width, assuming the Vines to be equally 
extended and cropped, and a border of loose materials will require 
water much more frequently than one formed of firm retentive material, 
consequently the cultivator must be guided by the state of the Vines- 
in relation to their rooting area. The proper plan is to examine the 
border, and when water is necessary give a thorough supply. Surface 
dressings of the approved artificials should be applied prior to watering, 
so that they can be washed into the soil in watering, or they may be 
applied in liquid form, a pound to 20 gallons of water being a suitable 
strength. The borders have been dressed at the usual season— i.e., whilst 
the Vines are at rest, a dressing after the Grapes are set, and again 
about the completion of the stoning process, will help considerably, the- 
material as regards inside border being washed in immediately, or a 
soaking at those times with liquid manure, and when the fruit com¬ 
mences colouring will assure the berries swelling to a good size. In the 
case of Vines restricted to narrow borders higher feeding will be neces¬ 
sary, affording liquid manure whenever there is need of moisture. 
Supply a mulching a couple of inches thick of rather lumpy manure, 
the best being stable manure freed of the straw. 
Late Vines. —Those that have commenced growth may be syringed 
two or three times a day as well as those that have not started, and to- 
secure an even break close with a moist atmosphere at 75°, employing 
fire heat as may be necessary to secure a minimum of 55°. Vigorous 
young canes do not break evenly. To prevent a rush of sap to the upper 
part they should be brought into a horizontal position until all the eyes 
have started, when the canes may be brought up to the wires. 
Young Vines. —Vines planted last season and cut back to the base of 
the rafter or trellis at the winter pruning must be encouraged by gentle- 
fire heat, so as to allow time for their making and perfecting a good 
growth. The laterals should be pinched at the first joint up to a height 
of 6 feet, which will not prejudice but rather augment the supply of 
nutriment to the principal leaves, and by the additional food assimilated 
cause the formation of fruit buds. The principal leaves must not be 
crowded by laterals. 
Vhies for Early Fruiting in Pots. —Cut-backs of last year’s raising: 
should receive their final shift. The pots, 12 inches in diameter, should 
be clean and efficiently drained, potting firmly in turfy loam, with about 
a tenth of old mortar rubbish and a twentieth of crushed bones, adding- 
about a quart of some artificial to every bushel of compost. Bottom 
heat is not necessary, but if they are plunged in it, it should not exceed 
80° to 86°, and they must not remain in it so long that the roots enter the- 
plunging material. Keep the house rather close, and if the weather be 
bright shade for a few days. It is essential that the canes be trained 
near the glass, to ensure the solidification of the growth. Pinch the 
laterals at the first joint, and treat subsequent growths similarly, stop¬ 
ping the lead at about 8 feet. 
Planting Young Vines. —This will require to be effected when the 
growths are an inch or two advanced in growth. Where provision has- 
been made for inside and outside border, plant the Vines in the former, 
which will be sufficient for the first year ; indeed a 4 to 6 feet width of 
border is sufficient in the first instance. The Vines, if cut-backs of 
last year, may be shaken out and placed in position either before or after 
they have grown to the extent of a couple of inches, the roots being dis¬ 
entangled and spread out evenly in the border, covering them about 
3 inches deep, and watering moderately to settle the soil about them. 
Vines of the present year’s raising will not need to be planted out for 
some time yet. They are preferably raised in squares of turf, and may 
be planted when the roots are protruding through the sides, or if in pots- 
they should be turned out before they become root-bound. They wilt 
require to have a temperature at planting out time suitable to Vines in 
growth—viz., 65° at night and 70° to 75° by day, with an advance of 
10" to 15° with sun, but Vines of last year should be allowed to start 
unaided, syringing them two or three times a day according to the 
weather. 
Melons. —Early plants have made good growths, and are showing 
fruits upon the first laterals. To insure the fruit setting it is necessary 
to afford a bottom heat of 80° to 85°, and sufficient moisture only in the 
soil to prevent the foliage flagging. This will arrest growth, and in 
combination with a dry atmosphere—a circulation of warm air passing 
through the house—will favour the production of pollen. Fertilise the 
flowers every day, and stop the shoots one joint beyond the fruit. When 
the fruits commence swelling place warm soil against the sides of the 
ridges or hillocks. Supply water as required, avoiding a soddened con¬ 
dition of the soil, and to assist the swelling afford liquid manure, main¬ 
taining a good moisture by sprinkling every available surface morning 
and evening, and syringe the plants lightly at closing time in bright 
weather. If a succession of fruit be required in the same house some of 
