March 27, 1890. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
269 
the plants should be deprived of the flowers if they appear on the flrst 
laterals, and stopping these at the third joint will cause the sub-laterals 
to appear and show fruit, which will be rather later and finer owing to 
the increased vigour of the plants. 
Plants in pits and frames, with the shoots trained over the surface, 
•will require to be treated in a similar manner to Cucumbers detailed 
below, lining the bed and adding to the soil as the plants advance in 
growth. Train and regulate the shoots, removing every alternate 
lateral, and apply water only to maintain a steady growth. The soil 
should be well firmed, so as to secure a sturdy short-jointed growth. 
As soon as the plants are ready they must be planted in beds properly 
prepared and seedlings potted. Seed may be sown to raise plants for 
succession, also for pits and frames as they become vacant through the 
removal of forced crops such as Kadishes and Potatoes, about five weeks 
heing required to secure strong plants. 
CUCUMBEKS. —Pits and Prames Heated by Fermenting Materials .— 
Beds that have been formed some weeks will need good linings. Eemove 
as much of the outside of the beds as can be spared, and if the heat has 
■not greatly declined it will suffice for the present if one half the bed be 
lined, deferring the other half until the heat is again declining. In any 
case let it be applied to a width of 2 feet, as thin linings are of little 
use and soon require renewal. When the heat is up in the linings see 
that there is no accumulation of rank steam in the frame, especially 
when the sun is powerful, preventing it by ventilation. A good night 
covering will be necessary to maintain a temperature of 65° to 70° at 
night. Admit a little air at 75°, and permit the temperature to increase 
to 85° or 90°, closing at 80° to 85°, not, however, causing the tempera¬ 
ture afterwards to exceed 90°. Add a little more soil as the roots 
spread on the surface. Attend to training and pegging down the shoots, 
being careful not to overcrowd them. Stop the leading shoots a foot from 
the sides of the frame, and the laterals at one or two joints beyond the 
fruit. In watering avoid wetting the surface and foliage as much as 
possible. Sow seed to obtain plants for growing in pits and frames that 
have been occupied by early Potatoes. 
PLkNT HOUSES. 
Lilium Harrisi. —Plants that have flowered should be cleared from 
aphides by fumigating with tobacco, and then place them in a cool 
house. Supply water carefully, and give weak stimulants occasionally, 
■so that they will ripen their flower stems and mature their bulbs. If 
neglected in their present stage they will be useless, and might as well 
be thrown out as retained for flowering again. Later bulbs must be 
kept fre* from aphides, and should occupy a light airy position, so that 
their growth will be strong and sturdy. Later bulbs may be grown in 
cool houses, and may with advantage be given weak stimulants every 
time they need water. 
Lilium eandidum. —The earliest Lilies are pushing up their flower 
stems rapidly. Be careful not to hurry them in their present stage or 
half their flowers will fail to develop. Aphides are troublesome at this 
stage, and must be eradicated directly they are observed. Admit air 
freely whenever the weather is favourable, also supply weak stimulants. 
Plants in frames required to precede those outside should have the 
lights thrown off on fine days, or they will come forward too rapidly. 
Late Primulas. - Sturdy examples in I-inch pots should occupy a 
cool airy place with a moist base. Give clear soot water every time 
they need water. Where seed is saved select from the plants now push¬ 
ing up their flowers the number required, and place the plants on a 
shelf with a sunny position, where they can enjoy a good circulation of 
air. To be successful in saving seed a flne camel’s-hair brush should be 
used and the flowers examined daily. It does not take long with a flne 
brush to convey the pollen from the stamens to the pistil, which will 
insure seed pods. With many varieties this is the only means by which 
■seed can be obtained. When seed pods are formed in sufficient quantity 
on each plant remove all the remaining flowers, so that the plants can 
devote their energies to the development of the seed. Do not neglect 
the plants in this stage, but give weak stimulants every time they need 
water. Keep the plants healthy until the seed is ripe, and not dried 
up as is too generally the case. For seed bearing it is a mistake to de¬ 
pend upon plants that have been flowering profusely for some weeks 
past. 
Cinerarias. —Plants coming into flower will be plentiful at the 
present time, but the latest plants should be sorted without delay. 
These will be invaluable after Hyacinths are past their best. Place all 
the latest in cool frames where they are not too fully exposed to the 
sun and where abundance of air can be given during the day. It may 
still be necessary to protect them with mats during cold or frosty nights. 
The remaining batch may occupy a cool airy position in the greenhouse. 
These should have clear soot water every time supplies of water are 
needed. 
Calceolarias. —These must not be checked or kept on a dry stage, or 
they are certain to be attacked by aphides, which quickly destroy them. 
The earliest plants must have a cool airy position in the greenhouse, 
and the stage upon which they are standing must be kept moist. Later 
plants will do in cold frames. They should be placed into their flower- 
ng pots from time to time as they become ready, for growth will now be 
vigorous and free providing they are kept clean. Do not allow the 
plants to become dry at their roots. On the other hand, if once the 
plants are well rooted liberal supplies are necessary. Clear soot water 
is very beneficial, and not only acts quickly but imparts to the foliage 
a fine dark healthy appearance. 
Asvidistras.—Jl\a,vXa may be divided where it is necessary to increase 
the stock. Those in 6 or 7-inch pots are the most useful. One large 
plant can divided into a good number ; one leaf and a lead is ample, 
and these should be placed singly in 3-inch pots and placed in a 
temperature of 65° to 60°. They will soon commence to root and become 
established, when they may be grown on in almost any position. They 
make greater progress in a little warmth than when grown perfectly 
cool, but they do not flourish satisfactorily in too much heat. Small 
pieces of this nature make excellent plants the second season if treated 
liberally from the time they are divided. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
Ants in Hives. 
“ R. A. C.” fails to keep ants from destroying his bees. The 
species known as the “ large horse ant ” infests his hives and kills 
the bees. The chalk line successfully used by the soldiers in India 
for keeping the ants from food is partly a failure with him. 
There are numerous contrivances for preventing ants invading 
edible property which they are fond of. Moats are effectual, but 
some of them are expensive to furnish hives with. If hives stand 
upon a single post a zinc cup for the post with a hollow centre and 
the outer cup filled with some liquid will prevent any invasion. 
When the hive stands upon four legs any kind of cup or saucer 
may be employed. Deep-bottomed bottles are sometimes nume¬ 
rous enough about some establishments. By letting these into the 
ground neck downwards, and partly fill with water, then a little oil 
to prevent evaporation, the plan will be effectual. If rain can 
be kept out of them oil of itself will do. In that case the legs of 
the hive will not be injured by standing in it ; but if there is 
water, a little block of wood or piece of tile or stone for the feet 
to rest on out of the water they will not decay. Carbolic acid 
is disliked by ants. 
The Punic Bees. 
March has not been favourable for garden and field operations, 
nor for bees—at least, so far as it has gone, and we are now past 
the equinox. Our Punic stocks with two exceptions are the 
weakest we have. The black Punicians have been busy at work- 
Their industrious habits, together with their extreme hardiness, so 
far as my experience goes, augurs well for the future, and confirms 
“A Hallamshire Bee-keeper’s” account of them. I trust that 
their important properties, so desirable and necessary in bees when 
profit is the aim, will be realised, and so confirm the rest that he 
has told us of the little strangers, which seem as docile as they are 
industrious. 
Device foe Hivino. 
An American invention, meant to prevent the loss of swarms, 
is made of queen-excluder zinc, in the form of a tunnel, having a 
wooden floor reaching from a hive likely to swarm to an empty one 
placed a few feet to the right or left of it. It has been improved 
upon in England by placing the empty hive in front. The idea is 
to induce the bees to swarm right into the empty hive in front. 
Will it succeed ? Although much has been said in favour of the 
English improvement by doing away with a narrow portion in the 
centre of the tunnel, I am not hopeful that either device will 
succeed. They are, as yet, both untried. 
When bees are in the act of swarming they are intent on flying 
at an increased velocity. The zinc, instead of leading them quietly 
to what might be their new home, will incite their frenzy to escape 
from the meshes of the zinc, which they are sure to do. If the 
queen is unable to get through, the bees outside will be apt to fly 
on to other hives, and if the weather is chilly many will be lost. 
Stranger bees sometimes kill queens of the hives they fly to, 
and by one mistake many hives might be destroyed. When bees 
are intent on swarming, instead of obstructing them give free 
passage, and let the queen go with them as an inducement to settle 
and cluster quickly. If a hive is supplied with one of the devices, 
