288 
JOUIMAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 3, 1890, 
P. viscosa, Erica cernna, Chionodoxa Lucilisc. Baskets of spring flower¬ 
ing plants were shown packed very much as if they were going a 
long journey, the first prize basket of Mr. J. Millar excepted. Mr. J. 
Millar had also the first prize for Amaryllis. 
In the gardeners’ class hardy Rhododendrons were grandly shown by 
W. Carnegie, Gartshore Gardens, as were the cut trusses which came 
from the same gentleman. Amateurs made a creditable display, Mr. A. 
Blackley, High Blantyre, showing three greenhouse plants, one Azalea, 
one Deutzia, and gaining first in each of these classes. Mr. Meiklem, 
Bridge of Weir, had the best Hyacinths in pots. Miss M. B. McIntosh, 
2, Firpark Terrace, Dennistown, had the best three Hyacinths grown 
entirely in water, and the best two pots of Dutch bulbs in bloom. In 
the class confined to ladies, Mrs. Carnegie, Gartshore, had the first 
honours, closely followed by Miss McIntosh and Miss Sutherland 
Lenzie. 
Mr. Franc Gibb Dougall, superintended the arrangements, which 
were very satisfactory.— Kblvingbove. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines,— Ah, Forced Trees. —Allow the 
trees time during the stoning process, maintaining the temperature at 
€0° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day with sun heat, and about 65° by 
day in dull weather, carefully avoiding sudden fluctuations or depres¬ 
sions. Tie the shoots to the trellis as they advance, and regulate the 
growths for future bearing, so as not to have them too crowded, as by 
giving the shoots plenty of room the fruit is better exposed to the sun 
and air, and the wood for another year is stouter and better ripened. 
Bhoots disposed to grow more than 14 inches may have the points 
pinched out. Those remarks do not apply to extensions. When the 
stoning process is over, which may be ascertained by testing a few fruits 
with a knife, the fruit will require regulating for the swelling-off period. 
Very vigorous trees may be allowed to carry a few more than those 
that are weakly, but on no account unnecessarily tax the trees with 
more fruit than can be brought to maturity without prejudicing future 
crops. Weakly trees should be supplied with liquid manure, and the 
inside border in any case must be kept properly supplied with water, 
mulching the surface with partially decayed manure. This will secure 
more uniform moisture, and the fruit will swell to a good size. The 
temperature may be increased to 65° to 70° at night, and in the day 
70° to 75°, maintaining 80° to 85° or 90° through the day from sun heat. 
Ventilate from 75°, and close early with plenty of atmospheric moisture. 
Very early varieties as Alexander, Waterloo, and Early Beatrice will 
soon give signs of ripening, when syringing must cease, and the leaves 
that shade the fruit or overhang it must be drawn aside, and the fruit 
if necessary raised on laths across the wires of the trellis, so that its 
apex will be placed directly to the light. 
Trees Started at the New Year. —The fruit has swelled indifferently 
in some cases. Stoning will soon commence. Care should be taken to 
prevent sudden checks by injudicious ventilation, cold air in the day¬ 
time and too high a temperature at night being fatal. Rest content 
with a night temperature of 60° to 65°, 5° less on cold nights and 65° 
by day in dull weather, with 70° to 75° from sun heat. See that there 
is no deficiency of moisture in the borders; if it is at all dry afford a 
thorough supply of water or liquid manure. 
Trees Started Early in February. —These, for some unaccountable 
reason, are later than usual, but the set and swelling are so far satisfac¬ 
tory. Syringing must be practised morning and afternoon, which will 
assist the trees to shed the remains of the flowers, and prevent attaeks 
of red spider and aphides ; but avoid heavy syringings, an occasional 
one being all that is needed until the foliage is more advanced. Allow 
a night temperature of 55° or 60° in mild weather, ventilating from 65°, 
permitting an advance from sun heat to 70° or 75°, but with full 
ventilation. 
Bisludding.—Tlhis requires to be done with care and judgment, 
commencing early—as soon as the roots can be displaced with the 
■finger, and be followed up day by day until only the shoots required for 
-future bearing, attracting the sap to the fruits, or extension are retained_ 
namely, one from the base of the shoots now fruiting and another on 
a level with or above the fruit; the latter not being required for exten¬ 
sion should be stopped at a few joints of growth. In the case of trees 
not fully grown it will be necessary to leave shoots about 15 inches apart, 
calculating from the base on last year’s growth to form the bearing 
wood of next year, the terminals being trained in their full length as 
tspace permits. Closer training is often practised, resulting in weak 
overcrowded growth, not nearly so satisfactory as growth fully exposed 
to light and air. 
Thinning the Fruits. —Commence as soon as it is fairly set, removing 
the smallest first and those on the under side of the trellis, beginning 
with the weakest part of the trees, thinning proportionately less on 
strong than on weak wood, which will tend to the equalisation of the 
vigour of the tree. The fruit ought not ultimately to be left closer than 
one to every square foot of trellis covered with growth, but Nectarines 
being a smaller fruit may have one to every 9 inches square of trellis 
covered by the trees. The first thinning should be commenced when 
the fruit is the size of horse beans, the second when the size of marbles, 
when very few more will be left than is required for the crop, looking 
over the trees again when the fruit is the size of walnuts, and very 
few indeed over the intended crop should be left, though there must 
always be a margin for casualties. 
Syrmging. —All the trees not in flower should be syringed twice a 
day wten the weather is bright, so as to keep down red spider and other 
insect pests. The afternoon syringing should be done at closing time, 
so as to have the foliage dry or nearly so before night. If the trees have 
water hanging on them in the morning omit the afternoon syringing. 
This, however, will only be required with very vigorous trees. Allowing 
water to hang on the trees for any length of time destroys their tissue 
and has a weakening tendency. 
Tying-in the Growths. —This should be attended to early, as it re¬ 
quires to be done carefully so as not to bring the shoots down too 
sharply, yet it is necessary that it be done ; indeed, it is of the utmost 
importance where symmetrical training is considered, and in securing 
the shoots to the trellis sufficient space must be left in the ligatures 
for the swelling of the shoots. 
Trees Started Early in March. —With trees in full flower syringing 
must cease ; indeed, it should not be practised after the anthers show 
clear of the corolla, but a genial condition of the atmosphere should be 
secured by damping available surfaces in the morning and early after¬ 
noon. Prevent a close vitiated atmosphere by admitting a little air 
constantly by the top ventilators. The night temperature should be 
50°, falling 5° or more through the night in severe weather, 60° to 55° 
by day and 65° from sun heat. The inside border must not lack 
moisture. 
Latest Houses. —The flowers are opening, and as they are abundant 
thin them well on the under side of the shoots. Shake the trees daily 
from the first pollen ripening until the last of the blossom needs atten¬ 
tion, selecting the early part of fine days where artificial impregnation 
is resorted to, and it is a capital plan to dust every blossom when the 
pollen is ripe with a camel’s-hair brush, feather, or some other light 
substance. Any trees deficient of pollen should have some taken from 
those that afford it plentifully, as the small-flowered varieties usually 
do. The temperature should be maintained at 40° to 45° at night, 
50° to 65° by day, in all cases accompanied by slight ventilation at the 
top of the house, which must be increased when the temperature 
reaches 60°, and full at 65°. 
Unheated Houses. —The buds are fast expanding. Keep the house as 
cool as possible by free ventilation. Ventilate after the flowers expand, 
at 50°, and do not allow an advance above 65° without full ventilation 
both top and bottom, and close the house at 65° when there is a prospect 
of frost at night, but leave on a little air to allow of moisture escaping. 
In mild weather leave the ventilators open when the temperature is 
over 50°. Where there is a superabundance of flower buds remove 
those on the under side of the trellis. 
VlGS.—Earliest Forced Trees in Pots. —The fruits of Early Violet, 
Early Prolific, and similar kinds will soon commence ripening, when the 
supply of water must be gradually reduced, and withhold moisture from 
the atmosphere, admitting air by the top lights constantly. Continue 
to afford liquid manure to those trees swelling their fruits, and syringe 
the trees at closing time, ventilating freely in favourable weather. 
Early Forced Planted-out Trees. —No fruit tree produces surface 
roots so freely as the Fig if means are adopted to encourage them. A 
mulching of about 3 inches thickness of partially decayed manure will 
attract the roots to the surface, and prove beneficial if kept moist. 
Liberal supplies of water or liquid manure will be necessary to assist in 
sweiyng the fruits satisfactorily. Continue to pinch out the points of 
the shoots, and thin all crowded growths. No kind of tree is more 
benefited than the Fig by the full rays of the sun. Shading of any 
kind, even too much of their own foliage, is injurious. The temperature 
must now be increased to 60° to 65° at night, and in the daytime from 
75° to 80° with sun heat. Attend to tying in the shoots, allowing space 
for growth. 
Raising Young Trees. —If it be desired to increase the stock, cuttings 
may be inserted, selecting shoots about 6 inches long, taking them off 
with a heel or portion of last year’s wood attached. They strike readily 
in bottom heat. They are best inserted singly in 3-inch pots. When 
rooted shift without much delay into 6-inch pots, and when they fill 
that size with roots transfer to 12-inch pots. Good drainage is necessary. 
Turfy loam with a sixth part of old mortar rubbish and a fifth of 
decayed manure forms a suitable compost, potting firmly. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Autumn Sown Onions. —The winter has been very favourable for 
these. Part of the young plants should be transplanted now, and the 
others left to bulb where they were sown. These will be the first ready 
for use, but the others will form the largest bulbs if grown in deep rich 
soil. Soot is beneficial to them and distasteful to grubs. We plant in 
rows 1 foot apart, and 4 inches from plant to plant, with the intention 
of pulling up every alternate one for use before they have gained their 
full size. After planting tread along each side of the row to make the 
soil firm, as this induces the plants to bulb early. 
