April S, 1898 . ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
289 
Sowing Broccoli. —Seed may now be sown of varieties that will 
five a succession from November until May. Veitcb’s Self-protecting 
Autumn is our earliest, Sutton’s Queen the latest, and the intermediate 
consist of Osborn's, Snow’s, Leamington, Cattell’s Eclipse, and one or 
two others. The seed may be sown in rows or broadcast, the soil should 
be rich, and the position open for producing sturdy plants. 
Dwarf Kidney Beans. —Those in pots are now bearing freely, but 
in this stage are apt to be infested with red spider, and are therefore 
better out of vineries. Give abundance of water ; liquid manure will 
also benefit the plants. It will be a long time until plants bear in the 
open air, therefore one or two more sowings should be made under glass. 
Peas. —Those raised under glass and well hardened should, when 
the weather is favourable, be transferred to the open ground. Dis¬ 
turb the roots as little as possible, the secret of success being not to 
check them in any Way. Plant them in the most sheltered part of the 
garden, surround the roots with soil in which they are sure to grow 
freely at once, and immediately after planting stake them for shelter, 
but not so closely as to shade them from sun. Main crop Peas sown 
now will pod in July, and as the weather may be hot and dry then it 
is often advisable to sow in trenches. 
Globe Artichokes. —These are much valued in some gardens, and 
we find them extremely useful from midsummer until late in autumn. 
Old plants have wintered well. Some good manure should be forked 
round the plants. Last season our old plants were over by September, 
but those transplanted gave heads until December, 
Young Vegetables under Glass. —Early in April is usually a 
good time for transferring Cauliflowers, Lettuce, Brussels Sprouts, &c., 
to the open ground, but they must be duly hardened before undergoing 
this change. These crops will prove exceedingly useful, and they merit 
the most careful attention. 
Radish. —These are one of the first crops to gain maturity in the 
open ground, and from now onwards a small bed of seed may be sown 
every fortnight. Birds are particularly fond of Radish seed, and it may 
be necessary to net the beds until the plants are well in leaf. 
Carrots and Potatoes in Frames.— Potatoes are fast gaining 
maturity. When advanced they are much benefited by liberal ventila¬ 
tion, so long as it is not given to produce a check. It is unsafe to leave 
them exposed at night, as a few degrees of frost would ruin them. Early 
Carrots must be thinned to prevent crowding. If they are 2 inches 
apart small yet useful roots will form, and when some of them are 
drawn out then the others will have sufficient room. Do not allow 
them to suffer by want of water. 
Stimulants for Asparagus. —A sprinkling of salt, soot, or guano 
may be given to the surface of Asparagus beds at the present time with 
great advantage. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Zonal Pelargoniums .—Cuttings may now be rooted for flowering 
during the autumn and winter. Select sturdy shoots, and insert them 
singly in small pots. They will root freely in any position where the 
temperature ranges about 60°. Do not insert small weakly cuttings. These 
are much better on the stock plants until they grow and gain strength. 
Do not let these draw up weakly in a shady place or in too much heat. 
They will grow sturdily in a temperature of 55° if fully exposed to light 
and a little air is admitted to them daily. If the old plants have been in 
their pots for a long time give a pinch of artificial manure on the sur¬ 
face of the soil. This will induce vigorous growth. Strong cuttings 
that have been rooted in small pots will soon flower if placed in 4J-inch 
pots and stood close to the glass in a temperature of 50* to 55°. They 
draw up weakly in too much heat, and the trusses are small in compari¬ 
son to those allowed to develope gradually. 
Clematis indivisa lolata .—Where this has flowered and the plant 
has covered the space allotted to it, the shoots that have flowered may 
be well pruned. Nothing is gained by allowing the plant to become 
crowded, but the reverse. The shoots should be trained thinly and fully 
exposed to the sun. A free use of the knife will induce the formation 
of robust growth, which should be encouraged, for on these next season’s 
flowers will depend. This is a very effective and useful climber for the 
conservatory as well as the coolest structures. If the plant is infested 
with scale, syringe with a solution of petroleum and water at the rate 
of one ounce to the gallon. It is liable to the attacks of aphides, which 
are best destroyed by fumigating with tobacco. If the plant is confined 
at its roots, remove a portion of the surface soil and top-dre.s8 with equal 
portions of loam and decayed manure. A little artificial manur* 
sprinkled over the surface before the top-dressing is placed on will 
induce the roots to come to the surface. 
Greenhouse Ilhododcndrons .—These may be produced in succession 
by gentle forcing. On no account should they be hurried, or the flowers 
will fail to develope. The house in which they are forced may be kept 
moderately close and moist; no more artificial heat should be used than 
is necessary to maintain a night temperature of 50°. The syringe 
should be used freely to keep thrips in check, in fact these plants may 
be syringed from the time they show signs of movement. A dry base 
for the pots to stand upon, and dry atmospheric conditions, are detri¬ 
mental to these plants. They should have a cool moist base, and should 
never be allowed to become dry at their roots. Any shoots that are not 
flowering may as soon as they burst into growth have the young shoct 
pinched out. This will induce them to make two or more shoots, the 
same as those that flower. The main stock of plants that are not 
wanted in flower may have cool airy treatment. For covering walls that 
are exposed to the sun Rhododendrons Gibsoni and Princess Royal are 
invaluable. 
Baphna indiea .—These succeed well if given the treatment advised 
for greenhouse Rhododendrons, in fact they should be grown in the 
same structure, and with care good specimens may be producal. These, 
like the above, are often ruined by the atmospheric conditions to which 
they are exposed. If they are too hurriedly forced into flower more 
harm than good results. These plants cannot long endure a close 
confined atmosphere. Liberal syringings they enjoy as well as abundance 
of air. No h.arm is done by closing the house early in the afternoon 
during the season of active growth. They should be fully exposed to the 
sun and watered with the greatest care. They should never be allowed 
to become dry, and, on the other hand, if they are overwatered and the 
soil rendered sour failure is certain to result. Any plants that need 
potting should be attended to at once. Drain the pots carefully and 
liberally ; over the drainage a layer of moss must be spread before any of 
the soil is placed in. Perfect drainage must be insured. The soil may 
consist of good fibry loam, one-seventh of decayed manure passed through 
a fine sieve, and coarse sand—a liberal quantity of the latter should be 
used, and press the soil firmly into the pots. Plants that are in 
good condition at their roots and are straggling through neglect may 
be well cut back. They will break freely, and in two years make 
healthy flowering plants. Shoots that fail to flower must have their 
points removed just previous to flowering, then the whole of the shoots- 
start into growth at the same time. 
Daphne Mezereum .—This is beautiful in pots for flowering indoors 
early in the season, and for this purpose should be grown in pots the- 
whole season. When the plants are lifted annually from the outside 
and placed in pots for forcing a good stock of plants is necessary. When 
once the plants are established in pots they grow freely afterwards and 
flower profusely every season ; all the attention then that is needed 
after flowering is to harden the plants carefully and plunge them out¬ 
side. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
The weather is still backward for bees ; they are, however, 
advancing, and many hives are well forward with worker brood, 
and drones are being brought forward in considerable numbers, but 
not to the injury of the hive. The mild season, together with the 
hives having abundance of stores, is the sole and direct cause. 
Unfed hives are the most advanced. The Gooseberry bushes will 
be in flower in a few days, and should the weather be favour¬ 
able bees will be in a fit state for swarming early in the season. 
The majority will be allowed to swarm.; after manipulations will 
prepare them for the Heather. 
The Punic Bee. 
This is becoming more and more interesting as the year 
advances, working at times when no other bee is abroad, and so 
hardy do they seem that they are a marked contrast to the Syrians, 
which are as eager workers, but their tenderness is a defect. 
Feeding. 
Although the weather may be fine this must not be overlooked. 
The great numbers of hatching brood demand large supplies, much 
larger than are generally obtained during the month of April. 
Artificial Pollen. 
The supply of this should not be neglected if the weather turns 
unfavourable ; giving it inside the hive prevents the tear and wear 
on the bees, necessitated when they have to go outside for it. 
Have it rather thin than too thick, and see at all times that the 
honey the peameal is mixed with has been taken from a healthy 
hive. If medicated food is an advantage then Mr. Wm. Hogg’s- 
method of medicating the pea meal is far ahead of medicating the 
syrup, as it goes direct to the brood, which are those that take 
the disease. 
Causes of Foul Brood. 
It is many years since foul brood appeared in any of my hives. 
This immunity is entirely owing to my system of thorough venti¬ 
lation at all times, whether it be in the apiary or when in transit. 
Crowding the bees into little space at one time, and then “ spreading 
