April 10, IKK). ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
800 
early crops of fruit. In the southern districts it is sometimes advisable 
to delay planting on warm borders till the early Potatoes are cleared off, 
but in the ojien quarters the Strawberries being planted now, the spaces 
between the rows can be cropped with either spring or autumn sown 
Onions, Lettuces, Spinach, Turnips, or other crops that will not unduly 
shade them. All delight in well-manured deeply dug ground, but this 
must be made quite firm, otherwise there will be a plentiful crop of 
leaves and little or no fruit. The rows of the stronger growers, of 
which Sir J. Paxton is a good type, ought on all good soils to be not less 
than 30 inches apart, a space of 18 inches dividing them in the rows. 
The rows of the le.ss robust varieties, including British Queen and the 
compact Laxton’s Noble, may be 2 feet apart. 
Treatment of Established Strawberry Beds. —These ought 
not to have the ground between the rows either dug or forked over 
now, as this destroys many surface roots, also loosens the soil more 
than is good for the plants. What is needed is sturdy foliage and strong 
trusses of flowers thrown well above it. They must not, on the other 
hand, be unduly starved, or the fruit will be small and of inferior 
flavour. A surfacing of soot, guano, or any other nitrogenous special 
manure may well be given now or just prior to showery weather. In 
any case it ought not to be deferred long after the trusses of bloom are 
showing, and on no account should strong manures touch the foliage or 
reach the hearts of the plants, or much harm will be done. The 
principal feeding roots are spread out well clear of the foliage, and long 
established plants ought especially to have the whole of the spaces 
between them manured in some way. This to be lightly stirred in and 
weeds and slugs destroyed by the use of a flat hoe. Nor ought mulching 
with strawy manure to be long delayed. Applied now, some of its fer¬ 
tilising properties will be washed down to the roots, and in any case it 
will greatly serve to conserve the moisture in the ground so much needed 
by Strawberries later on. The market growers make this one good 
mulching suffice, the rains washing it clean enough for the fruit to rest 
upon, but private gardeners ought to again lightly mulch with cleaner 
litter before the crops are far advanced. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Tines. —Early Forced Vines .—Pot Vines afford creditable crops of 
early Grapes. Better results, hoivever, are had by planting the Vines in 
beds or borders. A span or lean-to house answers perfectly, having beds 
or borders 3 to 4 feet wide, and about 2 feet deep, so as to admit of 
6 to 9 inches of drainage, and 15 to 18 inches depth of soil. The Vines 
being raised from eyes or cut-backs will need to be forwarded in another 
structure until the Grapes are cut. These being ripe in April will be off 
by early Jlay. The Vines that have fruited are cleared out, fresh soil is 
placed in the borders or beds, and the Vines that are to fruit the follow¬ 
ing year are planted at 27 to 30 inches apart. If they have made con¬ 
siderable progress, but are not root bound, they may be turned out with 
the ball entire, firming the soil well about them, and supplying water 
freely. If in small pots they should be disentangled and the roots 
spread out. Turfy loam with an admixture of about a sixth of old 
mortar rubbish forms a suitable compost, and a sprinkling of some 
approved fertiliser. The canes being trained near the glass will make 
short-jointed wood. Stop the laterals at the first leaf and the sub¬ 
laterals at one joint, and to every subsequent joint as made. Almost 
any amount of vigour can be had by encouraging the laterals, but not 
allowing them to interfere with the principal. This, however, is not 
desirable for Vines intended to fruit early, as it is necessary the wood be 
ripened early, and as much food stored in the wood and buds as prac¬ 
ticable. If well done they will make canes like walking sticks, with 
eyes like nuts, and being as much under control as pot Vines they can 
be matured early and given a rest, so as to be ready for a start by the 
early part of November. By this plan the root action is considerably 
extended, and this admits of any amount of feeding, the crops finishing 
better than those of pot Vines in pots. Cut-backs are very much the 
best for planting out in the way described. 
Yovng Vines .—Those planted last spring will now be breaking 
naturally. When the buds have grown about half an inch a little fire 
heat will prove beneficial, especially on cold days. Remove all buds 
except one at each break, retaining the strongest, and crop lightly, but 
supernumeraries may be weighted with as much fruit as there is pro¬ 
spect of their bringing to maturity. 
Grapes Ripening .—After commencing to colour the berries swell 
considerably. In order to insure a full swelling of the fruit inside 
borders should have a thorough watering and mulching early on a fine 
day, ventilating freely to allow excessive moisture to escape. A full 
crop of early Grapes is a ggeat strain on the energies of the Vines, and 
through it in early forcing perfection in colour is not always attainable, 
much may be done by a liberal and constant supply of warm, dry air 
combined with a moderately low night temperature, but the tempera¬ 
ture must be well maintained by day—70° to 75° from fire heat, and 80° 
to 85° with sun heat. When hard forcing is practised red spider usually 
makes its appearance, and should be prevented by painting the pipes 
with a mixture of sulphur and skim milk ; care, however, must be taken 
not to use too much, or it will act injuriously upon the skin of the berries 
and spoil their appearance. The sulphur vapour is more injurious to the 
skin of white than black Grapes. 
Succession Houses .—.Attend to thinning the bunches and berries. 
Stop and remove laterals, especially where there is not room for exten¬ 
sion, as to allow them to grow considerably, so as to necessitate a large 
reduction of foliage at cne time, results in a check which often induces 
shanking at a later period. See that the borders have plenty of water, 
and weakly Vines will be benefited by tepid liquid manure. Vines- 
swelling their fruit should have a moist atmosphere. Damp the paths 
two or three times a day, and if liquid manure be used at the latest 
damping it will improve the Vines and act as a check to red spider. An 
ounce of the ammonia manures to a gallon of water is suitable for 
damping with. 
Late I'taM.—Disbud and tie down these as they require it. Close- 
the houses early in the afternoon with sun heat, and maintain plenty 
of atmospheric moisture by frequently damping available surfaces. 
They are now making rapid progress and must be given every 
encouragement. 
Cucumbers. —Plants that have been bearing through the winter 
will need to be renovated at the roots, removing with a handfork as- 
much of the exhausted soil as is possible without injury to the fibres, 
and fill with rich lumpy compost, pressing it down firmly. Stopping, 
training, and cutting out the old growths must bo followed up, and 
abundant waterings given as necessary. Assist plants in full bearing 
with copious supplies of tepid liquid manure, and earth the roots 
occasionally. Damp the fioors before 8 A.m. and about 3 p.m., the 
foliage being syringed lightly on fine afternoons, and keep the evapora¬ 
tion troughs filled with liquid manure or weak guano water. Therfr 
ought not to be any further delay in having the blinds in readiness, so- 
that they may be employed for an hour or two at mid-day, when the 
sun is brightest. Shading is most needed after a dull day or a period of 
dull weather (which tends to make the foliage soft) to prevent flagging. 
Worms, if troublesome, may be expelled by lime water. 
Melons. —Plants swelling their fruits will require supports. Half- 
inch deal boards, 6 or 7 inches square, with a hole through each corner, 
and suspended by four pieces of string or copper wire from the trellis- 
in a slanting direction to prevent water lodging, may be employed for 
the purpose. Pieces of slate with holes drilled in the comers arc- 
preferable to wooden supports, and glass would be still better through 
not being heated with the sun. Remove all flowers from such plants, 
also superfluous growths, stopping and tying as necessary. The plants 
must not suffer through insufficient supplies of water, affording weak 
liquid manure occasionally. Keep the evaporation troughs charged 
with liquid manure, and secure a good atmospheric moisture by 
damping in the morning and early afternoon, syringing the plants 
lightly about 3 P.M. on bright afternoons. Later plants will be showing 
fruit, and unless abundant remove the first blossoms, it being important 
that the female blossoms be nearly of one stage of growth. Maintain a 
somewhat high temperature and dryer atmosphere during the setting, 
only affording as much moisture as will prevent flagging. Stop the- 
shoots at one joint beyond the fruit, but employ the knife as little as 
possible during the setting period. 
In pits and frames a good bottom heat must be maintained, observ¬ 
ing the conditions previously named during the setting. When the fruits- 
are set they must be raised on a piece of slate. Look out for canker at 
the collar, placing a little quicklime around the stem as a preventive. 
Pines. —Plants started into fruit early in the year are fast approach¬ 
ing the flowering period, and will be benefited by an occasional sprinkling- 
overhead at the time the house is closed, but when in flower they must 
not be so treated. The foliage being as yet tender, it will be desirable 
in the case of houses with large panes of glass to afford a slight shading- 
for an hour or two at midday for a few weeks until the foliage become^ 
inured to the sun’s influence. When the flowering is over the fruit will 
advance rapidly if the roots are in good condition, and plentiful sup¬ 
plies of weak liquid manure will be requisite. Attend to ventilating 
early in the morning, commencing when the temperature is at 80° and 
closing at 85° with sun heat. Keep the atmosphere moist when the 
house is closed, the bottom heat steady at 80° to 90°, the night tempera¬ 
ture 70°, and 75° by day artificially. As soon as the suckers appear 
remove all except one to each plant. 
E5 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
SEASONABLE NOTES. 
Punic Bees. 
There appears to be some misunderstanding regarding what I 
ha-ve said about the hives of these being weak, as I have several 
inquiries about them on that point. Both of my stocks were simply 
a handful of bees with their queen last J uly, having no assistance- 
whatever but feeding, consequently were merely nuclei, and not 
very strong either when winter set in. Notwithstanding this draw¬ 
back they are increasing quickly, and work on days and at times- 
when no other bees are abroad, quite confirming what “ A Hal- 
lamshire Bee-keeper ” has said about them ; and as the weather is 
i now much warmer, although frosty at night, the bees are gathering 
I as much pollen as they can carry, principally from the Tussilago, 
