328 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
April 17,18D9. 
atoning, and will need care in preventing checks from sudden fluctuation 
or depression of temperature, the night temperature being kept steady 
at 60°, with 5° more on mild nights, whilst on cold nights it may fall to 
65° in the morning, 65° by day artificially in dull weather, 70° to 75° on 
cloudy days, but with clear intervals ventilating from 70°, and freely 
above 75°, Attend to tying in the growths as they advance, and 
encourage no more than will be required for future bearing, the ex¬ 
tension of the trees, and for the swelling of the current crop. See that 
there is no lack of moisture in the borders, affording liquid manure if 
the trees are heavily cropped and not making satisfactory growth, but 
avoid undue excitement to trees in full vigour, as any impulse given to 
growth during the stoning is apt to affect the process disastrously. 
Syringe twice a day so as to keep the foliage clean. 
Trees Started in February .—When the fruits are the size of horse 
beans thin them well, removing the smallest and those on the under side 
of the shoots, leaving sufficient for the crop, those that are best situated 
for receiving light and air. Disbudding must not be neglected, and 
heeling in shoots requfred for next year’s bearing must be carefully 
done. Syringe twice a day, the second syringing at closing time or 
early in the afternoon, so as to have the foliage dry before night, 
increasing the temperature to 55° or 60° at night, 60° to 65" by day, 
ventilating from the latter, and increasing it with the sun heat to 
70° or 75°. 
Trees Started in March .—Too many fruits have set in'most cases, 
where they have not it may be traced to over-luxuriance or to imma¬ 
turity of wood and imperfect development of buds. An over-set is a 
source of great weakness, and not infrequently causes the incipient fruit 
to be cast in showers, leaving but a scanty crop. There is no remedy 
but to well thin the flowers before they expand, not to disbud in quantity 
but gradually, and to thin the fruits so soon as it can be seen which are 
most promising by taking the lead. Syringe so as to assist the fruits in 
throwing off the remains of the blossom, and ventilate freely so as to 
insure sturdy, short-jointed, thoroughly solidified growth. A temperature 
ef 50° to 65° will be sufficient, not allowing an advance above 6.5° without 
free ventilation. 
Late Houses .—Attend to fertilising the flowers. There ought not to 
be anything neglected that is likely to insure the perfect fertilisation of 
the blossom, as without it the fruit cannot attain perfection. Split stones 
and disaster in stoning are in a measure due to neglect of attention at 
flowering. Secure a temperature of 50° by day and ventilate freely, 
allowing an advance to 65° from sun heat. Leave a little air on con¬ 
stantly. As there is a superabundance of blossom thin it well, first from 
the under side of the trellis, and where much crowded. 
In unheated houses observe 60° as the point for admitting air, and 
65* as a maximum from sun heat without full ventilation, but there 
must not be an advance above it without a full circulation of air. 
Water must be afforded so as to maintain the soil in a thoroughly moist 
state, supplying liquid manure to weakly trees. The blossom being 
abundant should be well thinned. 
Figs. —Earliest Forced Trees in Pots .—Early Violet and Early 
Prolific, though small, are desirable from affording fruit in advance of 
the large-fruited varieties. The fruit showing signs of ripening, water¬ 
ing must be gradually reduced, and syringing must cease, but those 
swelling the fruit should be assisted with liquid manure twice a week, 
syringing the trees at closing time. A circulation of warm air, rather 
dry, should be secured when the fruit is ripening. A temnerature of 
60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day, advancing to 80° or 85° from sun 
heat, is suitable, closing so as to increase to 90°, but air must be after¬ 
wards admitted so as to allow the pent-up moisture to escape and pre¬ 
vent the deposition of moisture on the fruit, which settling on the apex 
is apt to cause its decay. 
Early Forced Planted-out Trees .—Mulching with 2 or 3 inches 
thickness of short manure is essential to the encouragement of surface 
roots. This, if kept in a moist state, will be full of active feeders by the 
time the trees need the most assistance in order to perfect their crops. 
Trees in borders of limited extent should be well supplied with water or 
liquid manure as necessary. Syringe twice a day. Ventilate freely in 
favourable weather, which will secure stout growth and leathery healthy 
foliage. No fruit is more benefited by the full rays of the sun than the 
Fig. Any kind of shading, whether by other plants or too much of their 
own foliage, is injurious and must be strictly guarded against by pinch¬ 
ing out the young growths in the late houses and thinning out all the 
overcrowded ghoots. The temperature should be maintained at 60° to 
65° at night, 70° to 75° by day, advancing to 80° or 85° from sun heat. 
Succession Houses. —Tying-in, thinning, and regulating the terminal 
shoots must have attention, stopping the spurs at the fourth or fifth 
leaf, and the laterals from these at the first or second leaf. Mulch the 
borders with short manure if not already done. Maintain the night 
temperature at 65° to 60°, 6.5° by day artificially, 70° to 75° from sun 
heat, which ought not to be exceeded without full ventilation, as it is 
very important the growth be stout and the foliage have good substance. 
When the trees are in full leaf the night temperature should be main¬ 
tained at 60° to 65°, and 70° by day, allowing it to rise to 80° or 8.5° 
from sun heat, closing early with plenty of moisture. 
Enheated Houses .—The trees must have attention in pruning, 
thinning the least fruitful growths and the old and bare, avoiding over¬ 
crowding, as it is necessary the growths have abundance of light and 
air. Allow the shoots for bearing to grow somewhat loosely with their 
points up to the light. Stopping must play an important part in cool 
houses. Pinch at the third or fourth joint on the young wood, which 
will assist the swelling of the fruit and induce the trees to break and 
produce short-jointed wood from the base of those in bearing. Venti¬ 
late freely at and above 50°, advancing to 65° from sun heat. The 
border should have a thorough watering if dry, repeating as necessary to 
bring it into a thoroughly moist state, afterwards mulch with shoiff 
manure. Figs in unheated houses do not require nearly so much 
atmospheric moisture as those grown in artificial heat, but an 
sional damping will be necessary to maintain a genial condition of the 
atmosphere. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Kidxey Beans. —A small sowing of both the Dwarf and Runner 
varieties may now be made. A cold, wet, heavy soil does not suit them 
at this season. The seed will perish in such, and must therefore be 
sown in somewhat light material. A sunny position is also advantageous. 
The earliest and most prolific crop of Dwarf Beans we are able to secure 
is supplied from seed sown on the ridges between Celery trenches. 
The elevated position seems to suit them better than any other, but in 
cold backward districts they may be sown at the foot of a south wall. 
In very cold localities the seed may be sown under frames, but in the 
ground to produce a first crop. 
Savoys. —It is a common mistake to sow Savoy seed too early. 
When the plants heart in September they are far past their best by 
December, and that is the proper season for Savoys to be gaining their 
prime. Grrowers have the choice of three types—the largje or Drumhead, 
the Globe or medium, and the Tom Thumb class. The Globe is the 
most desirable as a main crop. The heads are very firm, an important 
point, and their quality is good. The present, or from now until the 
first week in May, is a suitable time to sow the seed. It is often sown 
too thickly ; crowding of the plants at first, or at any time, is an evil 
to be avoided. 
Late Potatoes. —Potato planting should be finished as soon as 
possible ; compact growing varieties are best for gardens. Large tubers 
may be cut into two or more pieces, but unless in the case of choice 
and scarce varieties do not attempt to reduce them to a single eye. 
The ground should be moderately rich and dry at planting time. 
Artificial manures do not produce heavier crops or finer quality than 
farmyard manure, but the former is less disposed to force a large top 
growth. To use a large quantity of both is extravagant. 
Beetroot. —This is another crop of a somewhat tender nature. Seed 
should not be sown until after the middle of April. Large roots should 
be avoided. A perfect Beet can be spanned with the hand, and no 
attempt should be made to have them larger. Do not therefore sow in 
very rich soil, but let it be free and open and void of long manure. 
Sow in rows 1 foot to 16 inches apart, and in drills 3 inches deep. 
Lettuces. —To have Lettuces in the best condition, sow sufficient 
seed once a fortnight to give a supply that will meet the demand for a 
period of about that length. This fortnightly sowing should be begun 
at once. Lettuce raised in frames and under protection may be planted 
in the open ground. Our best Lettuce are invariably produced on the 
ridges between the Celery trenches. They gain a size there without any 
further attention after planting. We frequently make our Celery 
trenches in advance of the time they are wanted to secure ridges for 
Lettuce. 
Early Celery. —Plants in boxes and frames are rather too tender 
to plant out before the 1st of May, but they should be gradually 
hardened with the view of having them ready by that time. Do not on 
any account allow them to suffer by want of water. Give them liquid 
manure if they are backward. 
Thinning Vegetables. —Parsnips, Carrots, &c., will soon require 
this attention. Begin as soon as they can be handled, but only thin 
them to 1 or 2 inches apart the first time. This will insure sturdy 
growth, and they can be thinned more later on as they require space, 
but it is harmful to neglect them at first. After thinning, run the Dutch 
hoe rather deeply between the rows to loosen the ground, that the rain 
may penetrate free'y and not run off the surface. 
Herbs. —Mint is now plentiful in the open. Do not hesitate to cut 
it freely, as this will induce the stem that remains to branch out into 
numerous shoots. Sage and Thyme are readily raised from seed, and 
may be sown forthwith. The seeds are small and must have a fine soil 
on the surface. This applies especially to Thyme. Pork and manure 
the ground well. A small bed will be sufficient, as the seedlings should 
be transplanted the second year, and may be grown closely the first. 
Sweet Basil is frequently in demand. It requires to be sown and grown 
under glass, but a pinch of seed may be sown in a 6-inch pot, and the 
plants transferred to a frame or boxes when 2 or 3 inches high. 
Miscellaneous. —Earth up recently planted Cauliflowers ; draw 
the soil well to the collars. Peas and Broad Beans may be treated in 
the same way. Stake Peas before they fall over. Do not put tall stakes 
to dwarf varieties. Pot Vegetable Marrows and ridge Cucumbers 
singly in 4-inch or 5-inch pots. Give them treatment that will cause 
them to be strong, healthy plants by the middle of May. Pot Capsicums 
in rich material. Keep them in a warm atmosphere, and syringe them 
frequently. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Gardenias .—Where bushy plants with three or more flowers are 
appreciated for decoration, insert strong cuttings singly in small pots 
at once. Cuttings of soft wood root quickly if shaded from tbe sun and 
kept moist in brisk heat in the propagating frame. Yeung stock 
