May 1, 1890. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
859 
of little green circular bodies on the surface, from which ultimately 
will spring small fronds. From this time they should be gradually 
brought to the light, and when large enough to handle they should be 
pricked off into boxes, using soil similar to that in which they were 
sown. Keep the soil moist, and shade from bright sunshine. After 
they are established they may be potted singly into thumb pots or GO’s, 
according to their strength and the amount of roots they have. As they 
become established repot them as they require it; never let them get 
pot-bound when young. Most Ferns maybe kept comparatively healthy 
for some time by being confined in small pots, but plants so treated in 
their early stages are some time before they grow again freely. Another 
method of raising Ferns, and one requiring less time and labour where 
the convenience is at hand, is by standing mature plants on a strong 
wire trellis, under which we can have a bed of ashes ; then as the spores 
ripen Nature will cause them to drop among the ashes, where they will 
germinate readily in endless numbers. If it is desirable to increase any 
other variety the fronds when matured must be gathered and shaken 
on the ashes, where the spores will readily germinate as previously 
mentioned. 
General Treatment in Pots. —About the middle of February 
any of the varieties of Adiantums, especially Adiantum cuneatum, 
should be cut down entirely, especially if at all shabby, a process I have 
found not to be at all detrimental, but rather beneficial. All dead or 
shabby fronds of the other varieties should be cut off, and as soon as 
they have fairly started into growth, any that require potting should be 
pitted as carefully as possible, so as not to injure the young fronds; 
and any that are too large, or that you desire to increase, should be 
carefully cut with a sharp knife into as many pieces as circumstances 
may demand. Be careful not to use too large pots for small or weak 
growing varieties ; it is far better to give them another shift, or even 
two, during the growing season, but for the larger plants and strong 
growing varieties two sizes larger pots may be used with advantage. 
The pots and crocks should be thoroughly clean. If new pots are 
used they must be previously soaked, and allowed to dry. The compost 
should consist of two parts good fibrous peat (broken to pieces by the 
hand), one part good fibrous loam, a little leaf soil and silver sand, and 
some powdered charcoal. This should be sifted, and the coarse used to 
put over the drainage, as perfect drainage is an important matter. The 
charcoal will keep the soil open and sweet, which is also another im¬ 
portant point in the cultivation of Ferns. Water should be applied 
sparingly until the plants have commenced to root into the new soil, but 
when fairly established they should, when growing, never know the 
want of it. In fact any of the large plants which have not been re¬ 
potted, especially Tree Ferns, will require water twice a day during the 
summer, for it is marvellous how quickly a Fern will collapse when 
neglected in the matter of watering. Tree Feins are benefited by 
syringing the stems once or even twice a day during the summer, and 
occasionally overhead ; but for all Ferns that are of a soft nature, 
such as Adiantum farleyense, A. Pacotti, A. Legrandi, and the Gymno- 
grammas, I would not advocate syringing overhead daily ; a sufficiently 
moist atmosphere can be obtained by sprinkling the floors and slabs two 
or three times daily. 
Shading. —Ferns require to be shaded from brilliant sunshine, and 
it is desirable to have moveable blinds, so as to use them only when 
necessary. They are far preferable to a permanent shading, for although 
Ferns like a certain amount of shade, to gro w them in a densely shaded 
house will do them more harm than good. They will not look so well, 
nor their fronds keep so well when excessively shaded, for with proper 
light we secure a firm texture. They are of necessity subjected to a 
lower temperature during winter, so as to give them that one thing 
needful—rest, as on the little word “ rest ” depends our future success. 
To keep Ferns growing all the year round is a mistake and contrary to 
Nature. In speaking of rest, i do not advocate the drying off of the 
Ferns, or placing of them in any out-of-the-way corner, but that they 
should have a lower temperature, and have the water given them more 
sparingly, as they will not require it so often during winter. 
Te.mperature. —Most of the Ferns I shall name in my selection are 
those from tropical countries requiring a stove temperature during 
winter of G0° at night to 65° and 70° in the day, rising as the days 
lengthen to 70° at night, and from 80° to 90° in the day during the 
summer, again declining as the days shorten. 
Selection. —In giving a selection of Ferns I shall mention only 
those I have successfully grown. Of Adiantums, farleyense, Bausei, 
concinnum latum, dolabriforme, trapeziforme, Williamsi, Lathomi ; of 
Aspleniums, nidus, alatum, viviparum, Cheilanthes elegans, Davallia 
fijiensis, Gleichenia dlchotoma; Gymnogramma peruviana argyrophylla, 
G. decomposite. G. sch'zophylla gloriosa; Nephrolepis davallioides, 
N. d. furcans. N. Duffi, Pteris tricolor. Some of the varieties I have 
mentioned will grow in a greenhouse temperature, but I have found 
them w grow more freely in a stove temperature. Gymnogrammas will 
require to be placed at the warmest end of the house during winter, as 
they do not thrive in a low temperature, and they must also be care¬ 
fully attended to in the matter of watering. 
Insects that infest Ferns are aphides, scale, and thrips. I have 
found for aphides and thrips nothing better in the way of destruction 
than occasionally slightly fumigating with tobacco paper. If the Ferns 
have not been grown in too high a temperature, and not tix> densely 
£haled,the fronds will be better able to stand slight fumigation without 
injury. Scale must be destroyed by lightly sponging with warm water 
in which a little Fir tree oil has been mixed. I have found this safe 
and effectual. 
The Natural Fernery. —Eaving given a brief outline of Fern 
culture in pots I will pass on to what I will call the natural fernery,, 
meaning, of course, a house that is (with one or two exceptions) planted 
with Ferns. For if we have a house with a north or north-western 
aspect, which could be devoted to a fernery or indoor rockery, a more 
natural and interesting structure it is difficult to find. The best material 
to be used in building a fernery of this description is what is called 
tufa, or Derbyshire stone. Although more e.xpensive than burrs or cork, 
it is far preferable, looking more natural, and the Ferns luxuriate in it. 
I have found some of them to root into it so strongly as to make it a 
difficult task to remove them. It would be impossible for me here to 
give any ideas or plans of the way the rockwork should be built, but 
suffice it to say that it should not be made too uniform, but as irregular 
as possible, here projecting and there receding. The practice of em¬ 
ploying a great number of arches and masses of overhanging rockwork 
should be avoided as far as possible, as it prevents the light reaching the 
lower parts of the fernerv. Ferns so placed as to have all the light 
excluded from them, instead of growing luxuriantly, and becoming 
objects of interest, dwindle away and die, leaving bare those parts which 
ought to be most amply furnished with verdure, because of being below 
the eye of the spectator. For a fernery of this description to become 
effective the foliage in the lower part ought to be as luxuriant as that 
above, and this can only be done when we make arrangements for 
abundance of liiht. It will greatly add to the appearance of a. 
fernery if we can have a shallow pond of water within the house, and 
also if in building the rockwork we let in one or two small pipes with 
holes pierced in them, so as to penetrate through the stone, greatly 
assisting to keep the stone cool and moist during the summer. 
Compost.— The compost should be the same as previously mentioned, 
but it may with advantage be used a little coarser. Care should be 
exercised in the planting and making the plants firm, especially at the- 
back. Commence by planting at the bottom, close to the pond, all 
Ferns of a water-loving nature, such as the Polypodiums, Osmundas,. 
such as Osmunda gracilis, 0. cinnamomea, and 0. Claytoniana, Scolo— 
pendrium vulgare, and its beautiful crested varieties. If any other- 
plants than Ferns are required for the sake of giving relief, there is 
nothing better than Aspidistra lurida variegata, and also that good old' 
plant Farfugium grande. Both these are very partial to water, con¬ 
sequently should be planted close to the pond. I shall not attempt to 
give a long list of Ferns, but shall mention a few varieties that I have 
found to do well planted out. Nearly all the varieties of Pteris, both- 
green and variegated, will do well. Of the green forms Pteris serrulata, 
P. serrulata cristata, P. hastata, and P. umbrosa ; while of the coloured 
varieties are Pteris argyrea, a good variety for this purpose ; P. cretica 
albo-lineata, cristata, and cristata Mayi, and P. tricolor. The Davallias 
are also exceedingly useful ; the best for this purpose are Davallia 
bullata, D. canariensis, D. Tyermani, D. hemiptera, very dwarf and- 
handsome. These should be elevated a little above the level of the 
pockets, as they will then turn over the sides, and will root into the 
tufa more easily and readily. In fact, all Ferns having surface rhizomes 
should be kept above or on the surface, the rhizomes should never be 
buried. Nephrolepis exaltata will be found suitable for planting close 
to the wall, where it will soon cover the wall and have a pleasing 
effect. Nephrolepis davallioides is another good variety, if we can give 
it sufficient space so as to show off its long graceful fronds. It certainly 
should have a place found for it. as I have seen this variety so planted 
with its fronds nearly 5 feet in length, and hanging gracefully. T 
might here state that I consider when Ferns are planted out their true 
and proper charcteristics are better produced than when grown in pots. 
Amongst the Adiantums that may be used are cuneatum, decorum,, 
formosum, and Capillus-Veneris ; the last named is very useful for 
planting out, as the spores will grow readily on the tufa if kept moist, 
looking very pretty and effective. 
Unless the house is a large one I would not advise the planting of 
Tree Ferns, for unless there is room for them to develope their handsome 
fronds they soon get spoiled. A few pieces of lichen may, if desirable, 
be placed here and there on the tufa, with the object of improving the 
appearance. 
When all are planted, water carefully with a fine rose, so as to 
prevent the soil being wasbeil out of the pockets. When fairly 
established they must have a liberal supply, and it will be necessary 
to damp the floors and syringe the walls at least twice a day during- 
hot, bright weather. The Ferns I have selected being of a somewhat 
harder nature than those recommended for pots, will not be injured by 
being occasionally syringed, as the tufa must be kept moist, so as to make 
it become green, for the sooner it does become green the more natural 
will it look. 
The temperature should be kept nearer to a greenhouse standard than 
that of a stove. In winter a temperature of 45° at night to 50° or 55“ 
in the day will suffice, gradually rising as the days lengthen and the 
light increases to 60° or 65° at night, and from 75° to 80° in the day 
during the summer. No harm will be done if the temperature rises 
even 10° higher than 1 have stated, if caused by the sun, and if the 
temperature should rise to this degree, attend well to the damping 
of the floors. If such a house is glazed with Hartley’s patent glass 
so much the belter, as little or no shading will then be required. 
If shading must of necessity be used, in this case also have re¬ 
moveable blinds if possible. I would not advocate the use of coloured 
glass, as 1 have found Ferns do not seem to do well when placed 
under it. 
Fern3 for Decoration and Cutting. —If Ferns are wanted for 
house decoration during the winter months the best plan is early in 
the summer to break up or divide any large plants that are at disposal 
