884 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 8, 1890, 
others. These should be begun first, and follow with others until 
finished, which should not be later than the end of August. After that 
I do not eonsider it would be safe, although I have seen some, especially 
the old red Clove variety, root freely when layered in the middle of 
September, but it would not be advisable to leave them so late. The day 
before layering is commenced, if in pots, they should have a good watering, 
as afterwards this can only be done through a fine rose on account of the 
layers ; and the same should be applied to plants in beds and borders if 
the weather has been dry any length of time. When layering in pots 
little of the surface soil should be pricked up, and a little of the compost 
advised for cuttings should be added. Then trim off some of the under 
leaves next to the roots, using a sharp knife, on the under side a little 
below the second or third joint make a cut horizontally right through 
one joint, dividing the stem half way through as it goes. Cut the end 
of the tongue carefully off close to the joint, if left on it might cause 
it to decay. The tongue should then be fixed downwards in the soil, 
and secured firmly with a peg made of wood or fern. Then cover the 
joint with some of the fine soil, and should it at any time become 
washed bare, more should be added. In about six to eight weeks 
they would be ready to pot into 60’s, large or small according to the 
size of the plants, and if cold frames are available, where they are 
intended to be kept through the winter, they might be taken straight 
away, providing that they are well exposed to the sun ; or they could 
be placed outside. In either case they should be stood on coal ashes to 
keep the worms from working in the pots. If placed outside they 
should not remain out after about the middle of October, when chey 
must be taken to their winter quarters. This mode of layering would 
apply both to pot and border plants, but their general cultivation will 
be dealt with separately. 
Soils .—The Carnation is found to grow best in a loamy soil of a 
sandy nature, and if the plants are expected to thrive satisfactorily, some 
pains ought to be taken to secure that which is best adapted for their 
culture. Loam, which is one of the most essential factors to produce 
the above effect, is too well known for me to define here, but its quality 
varies considerably in different localities. If I were allowed the privilege 
of choosing my own, it would be from some rich pasture land, full of 
fibre, and of a light yellow colour, where sheep were allowed to graze 
over, and which a year or two previous had had a dressing of road 
scrapings. It should have a pleasant smell when freshly dug, and when 
pressed between the thumb and finger should feel soft and oily and not 
sticky. But as loam of the above character is not always obtainable, the 
only way then would be to get that which has the nearest approach to 
it. A good test for determining the quality of loam is that the grass is 
fine and lu.xuriant, not of a wild, rank growth. Always avoid that 
which contains iron, which, if closely scrutinised, can easily be detected 
by the rust-like veins running through the soil, and generally the earth 
surrounding it is of a dark blue colour. 
Assuming that a choice of loam has been decided upon, the ne.xt thing 
will be, when dug and brought in, to get it stacked, which should be 
done by placing the turf grass downwards, and between each layer give 
a good dusting of newly slaked lime, using while hot and mixed with 
soot, in order to get rid of any wireworm or grubs that might abound, 
which are the most destructive insect to the Carnation, besides the 
manorial properties this mixture contains. Build the stack and finish 
off with a ridge to throw off the rain. This stack should remain for 
eight months at the least before being used. 
Sand is another indispensable ingredient, and if obtained from the 
bed of a river would be ready for use at any time when dry, but gene¬ 
rally there is some difficulty in getting it. If it cannot be obtained we 
should use road sand, which I have already alluded to in the compost 
used for striking cuttings and recommended to be washed before using, 
on account of its being impregnated with seeds from weeds growing by 
the road-side, and would soon become a nuisance if used direct without 
any preparation, from the myriads of little weeds springing up. If one 
has failed to procure river sand and has succeeded with road sand, a good 
plan would be to get in a quantity and throw it up in a heap, or slope it 
against a wall, using quicklime as advised for stacking loam, letting it 
lay twelve months before using ; by that time anything injurious will be 
decomposed, when it can be sifted and used as required. If neither of 
the above mentioned sands are procurable, silver sand must be used. 
Cultivation in Pots, 
Plants that were rooted the previous autumn and successfully 
wintered, when starting into growth will require potting. This 
applies to those intended for- the above only. About the middle of 
March I consider would be the safest time to perform this, but con¬ 
sidering the variableness of our climate it would be best to be guided 
somewhat by the season. When grown singly the pots best adapted for 
this purpose would be 32 and 24 sizes (according to the habit of the plants), 
which are very useful decorative sizes ; 48’s might be used for weak 
growing varieties, but when larger specimens are required 12 and 16-size 
pots should be used, putting three or four plants according to the above 
rule—viz., in a 12-size pot three strong growing or four weaker growing 
plants should be placed. While the operation of potting is going on be 
careful the varieties do not get mixed. To see two different sorts in one 
pot being different in habit of growth and colour of bloom would look 
anything but becoming in a good collection. Great care should be taken 
in crocking the pots. Use a large hollow piece for the bottom covering 
the hole, not flat tile, as some use, then a few more large pieces, finish¬ 
ing off with smaller, which would secure good drainage, as nothing 
is more detrimental to the health of the plants than being what is 
commonly called waterlogged. Cover with the roughest of the 
compost. 
Itoughly Brolicn Loam .—The different ingredients used with this 
depends much upon its quality. If it is of the character previously 
described and recommended, horse droppings rubbed through a sieve 
should then be added, using about one-fourth in proportion, and about 
one-sixth of coarse sand. If the loam is inclined to be heavy a little 
more sand might be used accordingly, also leaf mould might be added 
with advantage to about one-sixth, otherwise I should not recommend 
it. Before turning it give the whole a sprinkling of quicklime, using a, 
32 potful to 3 bushels of soil. Here I might add a word or two regard¬ 
ing the horse manure used. As I have said before, it should not be 
from old Mushroom beds, nor as some growers recommend from old hot¬ 
beds, but some that has been specially prepared for the purpose. This- 
can be done by placing a quantity into an open shed, or any where under 
cover, all the straw being previously shaken out, letting them lay for 
six months before using, turning them occasionally to sweeten and 
assist decomposition. When the soil has been turned several times so 
as to get the whole well incorporated, the pots should be filled to the 
required depth, carefully turning out the plants, removing the crocks, 
and should the plants have become root-bound the roots should be pricked 
out with a sharp-pointed stick, then place the plants in position in the pot, 
making the soil firm with the potting stick, and when finished the ball 
of the plant should be covered with about half an inch of the new soil, 
which should be 14 inch from the rim of the pot to’ allow room for 
water. The soil when used should not be too wet, rather spread it out 
and leave it a day or two. If potted in that condition the soil will 
become clammy, which should be strictly guarded against to insure- 
good results, as it prevents the water passing through the soil, and 
besides, in a short time will crack away from the side of the pot, 
hence be very misleading in watering, as the plants might be 
wet when appearing to be dry, and would moreover lead to anything^ 
but good results. Neither should it be too dry, or the plants will 
require watering as soon as potted, which should not be the case. When 
potted they should bo placed back into the cold frame again, giving 
them a sprinkle all over with water through a fine rose, and if the- 
weather be favourable it might be repeated occasionally, but if the 
soil is in the proper condition it is all they will require for ten days at 
least, unless they show any signs of flagging, when they should have a 
good watering through a coarse rose, taking care they get soaked 
through. After that they should be watered very carefully, testing 
each plant, and watering only when they really require it. During the 
time that the plants are in the frames after potting they should be well 
ventilated, and as soon as they start to make fresh growth they should 
be stood outside on coal ashes fully exposed to the sun, but sheltered 
from high winds if possible. 
When they begin to send up their flower spikes they should be staked 
at once, and all leading growth should be secured, to prevent being 
broken by the wind. If the plants show more than one flower spike, 
the strongest should be selected, the rest pinched off, to throw the whole 
strength into the one main stem. To flowers that are intended for exhi¬ 
bition, or if large blooms are aimed at only, the buds should be thinned 
down, leaving two on a weakly stem and three on a stronger one, but for 
ordinary culture almost all the buds may be left, simply taking 
out -weak or deformed ones. The thinning operation should be done 
almost as soon as the buds are formed, leaving, of course, the most 
promising ones. 
As soon as the buds show signs of bursting they will require constant 
attention, as sometimes they open very irregularly. In order to prevent 
this a piece of matting should be tied carefully round, or small elastic 
bands could be used, which are made for the purpose and sold by most 
