May 8.183?. ] 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
S91 
advances in colouring the moisture should be gradually reduced and the 
ventilation increased, but there must not be any diminution of the 
temperature until the Grapes are fully ripe. Grapes that are liable to 
crack, such as Madresfield Court, may, when ripening commences, have 
the needful supplies of water or liquid manure, and then have the 
inside border mulched with 4 to G inches thickness of dry material, 
which with early ventilation insures this remarkably fine Grape 
arriving at perfection. 
Succetsion Houses. —Thinning, disbudding, stopping, and tying must 
be attended to as occasion requires, proceeding on lines indicated in 
former calendars. Especially let all superfluous bunches be removed as 
soon as the number to be left on a Vine is decided. Examine the 
borders of all succession houses at least once a week, and when dry sup¬ 
ply water freely. Inside borders will take almost any quantity of water 
after the Vines are in full foliage, and with a full crop of Grapes liquid 
manure should be applied at every alternate watering. Outside borders 
will not as yet require water. 
Late Houses. —Late Vines progressing rapidly must be tied and 
stopped as soon as they have made sufficient growth to cover the trellis 
with foliage. Admit air freely on all favourable occasions, as there is 
the greatest benefit in well developed foliage, stout and firm in texture, 
as upon these and their continuance in health depends entirely the 
swelling and maturing of the crop, particularly the finishing or colour¬ 
ing process. Every advantage, therefore, should be taken of sun heat 
to increase the ventilation early in the day, but close early, excessive 
fire heat being injurious ; avoid a vitiated atmosphere. 
Xficly Planted Vines. —With advancing growth, an evidence that 
the roots are active, close attention will need to be given to the roots to 
see that they do not suffer from over-dryness. Allow all the wood to 
remain that can be exposed to light, but supernumeraries intended for 
fruiting next year should be confined to one rod or cane, and the 
laterals pinched at the first joint, stopping the cane when it has made 
about 8 feet of growth. 
Vine.<> in Greenhouses and Unheated Hotises. —With rapid progress 
as the Vines are now making the growths will require disbudding, 
stopping, and tying. One shoot is sufficient to each spur unless they 
are wide apart, when two may be left, but there must be scrupulous 
attention to prevent overcrowding; every leaf must have exposure to 
light and air. Reserve those that show the best bunches, rubbing the 
others off. Stop two joints beyond the bunch ; but rather than crowd 
the foliage «top one joint beyond the bunch, or even level with it. Tie 
down the shoots carefully and gradually. Old Vines sometimes do not 
fruit freely on spurs, being weak. It is best to lay in shoots from the 
base and along the rods at intervals of 2 to 3 feet, which will increase 
root action, the Vines attaining increased vigour, and longer pruning 
will usually afford better crops of Grapes ; indeed, old Vines with fresh 
canes bear excellently. Apply a dressing of artificial manure to the 
border, a couple of ounces per square yard, and point it in very lightly. 
Inside borders may be given water or liquid manure, when dry a 
thorough soaking, and a mulching of short rather fresh manure will, by 
keeping the surface moist, encourage active roots. 
Melons. — Early Plants. —Directly the fruit begins ripening lessen 
the supply of water at the roots, but not so as to distress the plants, for 
if the foliage has been kept clean and the roots in good condition a 
second crop of fruit may be had. Atmospheric moisture should be 
withheld, and a circulation of drj- air ensured, increasing the tempera¬ 
ture to 70° or 75° artificially, and 80° to 90° with sun heat. Cut the 
fruits before they are very ripe, keeping them in a fruit room for two 
or three days, or until they are in proper condition to be sent to the 
table. Cracked fruits are produced by a close and moist atmosphere, 
with too much moisture at the roots, which induces an excess of sap. 
If any fruits show a tendency to crack cut the shoots about halfway 
through with a knife a few inches below the fruit, and diminish the 
supply of water at the roots and in the atmosphere, leaving a little 
ventilation constantly to prevent moisture condensing on the fruit. 
Successional Plants. —Continue to fertilise the flowers when fully 
expanded, the atmosphere being kept rather drier and warmer, and 
ventilation attended to early, with a little constantly if there is danger 
of moisture condensing on the blossoms. Stop the shoots one or two 
joints beyond the fruit at the time the fertilisation is done. To secure a 
full crop take care to have a number of fruits on individual plants in 
the same stage of growth. Earth up the plants with some rather 
strong and rich loam after the fruits begin to swell, ramming it 
down firmly, placing a little fresh lime around the collar to prevent 
canker. Plants swelling their fruits should be syringed freely in hot 
weather about 3 p.m., damping the floor several times a day, and in the 
evening sprinkle available surfaces with liquid manure or guano water, 
1 lb. dissolved in 20 gallons. Shade only to prevent flagging. Ventilate 
freely in favourable weather, commencing from 75° to 80°, increasing 
or decreasing it through the day as may be necessary, maintaining a 
day temperature of 80° to 85°, or 90° with sun heat, closing between 
80° and 85°, and if an advance is after closing made to 90° or 95° it 
will materially a.ssist the fruit in swelling and lessen the necessity for 
fire heat at night, but it must be accompanied by plenty of atmospheric 
moisture. If thrips appear fumigate on two or three consecutive 
evenings, taking care to have the foliage dry, and for red spider dress 
the hot-water pipes with flowers of sulphur. 
Train out the growths in pits and frames. Still maintain a good 
bottom heat by linings, and employ thick night coverings, as the nights 
are yet cold. Sow s^ for raising plants to put out in pits and frames 
as they become cleared of bedding plants, early Potatoes, &c., potting the 
young plants as required. 
Tomatoes in Houses a fter Bedding Plants. —Structures that are light 
and airy may be profitably utilised for these plants. They do well in 
10-inch pots, a single plant in each. Drain the pots efficiently, place a 
layer of rough pieces of turf over the crocks, and then turn out the 
plants, using turfy loam with about a fourth of well decomposed manure. 
A considerable space should be left in the pot for fresh compost, ad¬ 
ditions being made as the plants advance in growth, and feeding with 
liquid manure will secure an abundant crop of fruit. Train the plants 
as single condons to wires 9 inches from the glass, removing all laterals 
or side shoots, but being careful to preserve a leader. The plants will 
have fruit from the first show at about every second joint, and the lead 
should not be stopped unless the limit of the trellis is reached, then 
remove growth as it appears. Shorten the leaves about a third of their 
length. The p'ants may be 12 to 18 inches apart. Keep the house 
rather c’ose until the plants are established. Ventilate a little at G5°, 
increase it at 75°, and above that ventilate freely. Close early, so as to 
run up to 80° or 85°, which will enable the grower to dispense with fire 
heat after the middle of the month. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Epaerises —Plants that flowered early may be repotted if they need 
more root room. Drain the pots carefully, and the soil must consist of 
good peat and sand. Do not disturb the old roots further than is 
necessary in removing the drainage. In potting press the soil firm, and 
be careful not to bury the collar of the plant lower than usual. If the 
plants have been carefully hardened they may be placed at once in 
cold frames. For the first ten days or a fortnight keep the frames 
close, and dew the plants with the syringe once or twice on fine days. 
Close the frame early in the afternoon. The plants must be watered 
carefully for some time after they are repotted. Later plants may be 
kept close, and syringed freely until they start into growth. A close 
moist atmosphere is beneficial at first, but as soon as they are well 
started air must be gradually admitted. 
Erica hyemalis. —Plants that have commenced active growth may 
be placed in cold frames. Be careful not to crowd them, or the lower 
foliage will turn brown and eventually fall. If the plants need 
repotting do it at once. Peat and sand should be used for a compost, 
and pressed firmly round the balls, which should not be disturbed 
beyond the removal of the drainage. Keep the frames the same as 
advised for Epacrises, and then admit air carefully at first, and increase 
it until liberal ventilation can be given. A firm sturdy growth shoulcL 
be aimed at if the plants are to flower freely. 
Erica gracilis. —This Heath is very liable to mildew if the plants^ 
are subjected to a close confined atmosphere. Directly any trace is 
observed dew them with the syringe and dust the affected parts with 
powdered sulphur. These plants may be potted the same as advised for 
E. hyemalis, but the smallest possible shift should be given. Do not 
attempt to keep these close after potting, but place them in frame and. 
admit air abundantly. 
Cytisus racemosus. —Plants that have flowered may be well prunecT 
and placed in the greenhouse until they start again into growth. They 
may be syringed once or twice daily, and repotted if they need it. 
Young bushy specimens in small pots may be transferred into 5-inch 
pots, a suitable size for decorative purposes. Young plants that are still 
in store pots may be potted singly into 2-inch size. Grow these cool, 
and pinch their shoots from time to time as they need it. Small' 
standards with stems 18 inches high are very effective ; these can be 
run up until the desired length has been attained before pinching is 
practised. They do well in a compost of good loam, one-seventh of 
decayed manure and sand. A little leaf soil may be used with, 
advantage for those placed in their first pots. 
m BEE-KDEPER. 
NOTES ON BEES- 
The Weather. 
The cold wintry weather which prevailed from the 7th to 
29th April has given way to lovely summer-like weather, a pleasant 
change for everything depending upon it, the mean temperature 
rising from 3(U° to G0° Fahr. The mildness induced me to take a 
ramble amongst fruit growers and bee-keepers. Notwithstanding 
the severity and ungenial weather in April there is no reason to 
suspect any damage to the fruit blossom. 
Bees had a severe trial, and many were lost the last week of 
the three, and I learned that many weakish hives succumbed which 
but for the ungenial weather would have done well. After breed¬ 
ing commences briskly bees cannot defend themselves against a 
spell of cold so well as they can do before breeding against a zero 
temperature. The moral is obvious. Keep your hives protected 
so that they are little affected internally by extremes in tempera- 
