May 16, 189D. ] 
401 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AXD COTTAGE GARDENER. 
caused by water coming in contact with the leaves, wbicb is sometimes 
done by careless watering in the case of plants under cover. Outside 
it totally rests with the weather and the class of protection afforded. 
For this quicklime might be used with good effect, dusting the plants 
all over, and a little soot mixed with it would do no harm. 
MiUleto .—This is a very troublesome disease to be guarded against, 
and is almost sure to attack plants if they be kept close and warm, 
which should at all times be strictly avoided. Should it make its 
appearance, flower of sulphur may be shaken over them through a 
piece of muslin or a sulphur distributor. There are many preparations 
used for this malady, but I believe the old-fashioned one recommended 
above to be the most effective. 
There is another disease I might mention, but I must frankly 
confess that my knowledge of it is very slight. It comes in the shape 
of an insect mite that attacks the roots, working its way through the 
centre or pith and ascending into the stem. Plants when attacked 
soon begin to turn yellow and assume a sickly appearance. If allowed 
to go unchecked it will often affect the whole stock of plants, which 
will soon become an eyesore and a source of annoyance to the grower. 
In this case I should advise soot to be used, shaking a little over any 
plants that show signs of becoming a prey to this insidious disease, and 
watering with soot water. But the better plan, when the foliage is 
showing any suspicion of the disease, is to take the plants and burn 
them ; thus sacrificing a few might be the means of avoiding all further 
trouble and anxiety. 
Winter Treatment. 
Presuming the layers and cuttings have been rooted and potted, I 
might be allowed to give a few hints respecting their winter situation 
and treatment. Cold frames or shallow brick pits would be the best 
place to keep Carnations during the above season, having several inches 
in depth of coal ashes at the bottom to stand them on and to keep out 
the worms, having the plants near the glass, and giving abundance of 
air, removing the lights altogether in the daytime, and leaving them 
tilted at night in mild dry weather, and in wet weather they should 
be tilted in opposite directions to the wind, either sideways, top, or 
bottom. A little air might be afforded them for an hour or so in the 
middle of the day in frosty weather if the frost is not too severe. They 
are less likely to be injured by two or three degrees of frost than by 
keeping them close and covered for any length of time. Of course this 
is unavoidable sometimes when there is a long spell of sharp weather, 
but a chance of giving air should never be missed. For covering the 
frames straw mats are the best, as they can be rolled on and off with 
ease, besides keeping out more frost than many other materials 
used. 
Wateri)ig .—This should be done very sparingly during December and 
January, and should be done with a small-spouted can, never usinga 
rose on account of wetting the foliage, choosing bright days and early in 
the morning. They should never be allowed to get too dry for any 
length of time, as the stem will lose its pith and thus be seriously 
injured. Steer between the two extremes as near as possible. They 
should be gone over at intervals, picking off any decayed leaves, and 
keeping a sharp look out for any disease or vermin, and as soon as 
observed take measures against it at once. If the soil gets green and 
crusted on the top, it might be stirred occasionally with a pointed stick. 
Towards the end of February, if the weather be mild and genial, the 
plants would be greatly refreshed if allowed to receive the benefit of 
a gentle shower, coming from the south or south-west, for a half hour 
or so, taking care to get the foliage dry again as soon as possible. Any 
plants that have been left in the open ground should be protected in the 
manner advised for seedlings. 
Tree or Perpetual Carnations. 
.Vnyone acquainted with the London or other flower market of 
consequence, will know to some extent how highly this Carnation is 
esteemed by the quantities that are disposed of there. Unlike many 
other flowers they never appear to be out of season, and as I remarked 
before, they are decidedly the best for pot culture. There are numbers 
of sorts grown both for private and market purposes. For the latter the 
delicate flesh colour variety of Souvenir de la Malmaison and Miss Jolliffe 
seem to hold the sway, and are estimated at no mean value by almost 
all cultivators. 
Pro])agation. — 'V\i\s can be done in July and August, or in the 
following January, either by layering or cuttings. It would be advis¬ 
able to propagate at both seasons, as by so doing there will be two sets 
of plants in different stages of growth ; by this means, and growing 
early and late sorts, and regulating them by stopping, you prolong the 
flowering period a considerable time. All plants that are rooted the 
two former months can be done on the same principles laid down for 
summer flowering varieties, and potted in small pots according to 
their size and habit of growth, and wintered near the glass in a green¬ 
house or some cool structure, giving plenty of air during the day when¬ 
ever possible ; and if the ventilators are so constructed that they can 
be used without fear of the rain beating in, a little air should be left on 
at night in favourable weather. The temperature should not go below 
45° at night, or above 50° with fire heat, but sufficient warmth should 
be afforded to keep them gently moving, using judgment in regard to 
watering, and taking the same precaution as to vermin and diseases. If 
green fly be troublesome fumigate with tobacco. About the beginning 
of February shift the plants into size larger pots, and so follow on as 
they need it, until they are in the sizes required to flower in ; 32’s 
to 16’s would be convenient for that purpose. The compost for 
potting should be about the same as is used for the summer flowering 
kinds except a little more loam in proportion, with a little broken 
charcoal, should be added. During the summer they should be placed 
outside, where they would be sheltered from high winds. The 
most tender sorts should have cold frames for their summer quarters, 
or skeleton frames might be made so that lights could be put over 
them to protect from heavy rains; and if the whole could be so 
protected it would be a great advantage, as sometimes during the 
summer we get heavy thunder storms and occasionally hail, and if 
not protected the young shoots are damaged, while the roots may be 
too wet. The plants should be properly staked. When the roots 
have well filled the pots they should be supported with weak 
liquid manure, using sheep dung if procurable, if not cowdung, 
preparing it as before directed. Soot water prepared in the 
same way may be used (not too strong), giving it about once 
in ten days, and liquid manure alternately for a week, then rest¬ 
ing a week. This will serve as a general guide, but judgment 
should be used, as some sorts are more gross feeders than others. An 
soon as they show signs of blooming the tops should be taken out 
(which in ordinary seasons would be about the middle of June) and 
at frequent intervals throughout the summer the tops of the side shoots. 
If early flowers are desired to succeed the late summer varieties a few 
plants can be selected of the sorts required, and the stopping regulated 
so as to get them into bloom about the second week in September, taking 
them under cover a week or so previous. About the above date the whole 
should be placed inside, and allowed to follow on flowering during the 
autumn and winter until about the middle of January, when propaga¬ 
tion should commence again, and spiing-struck plants should be just 
coming into flower. Either method of propagating could be resorted to 
at this season. 
If layered a good p’an is to plunge them in a warm pit, or in a 
Peach house or vinery, that is started, where there would be a brisk 
moist heat, spreading the shoots all round the pots, and layering in 
light prepared soil, where they should quickly take root ; or they can 
be struck from cuttings, selecting the medium size side shoots, as they 
will be more likely to root than ihe large gross ones. Soil for this 
purpose should consist of two-thirds loam to one of leaf mould, sifted 
and mixed with plenty of sand ; over the crocks put a layer of fertilis¬ 
ing moss, crumbled to prevent the fine soil from getting among the 
crocks, also for the small rootlets to strike in, and from which they 
can be separated without much fear of breaking them, filling up the 
pots within an inch from the rim, finishing off the remainder with sand 
mixed with a little powdered charcoal. Dibble in the cuttings firmly, 
about six to eight in a 4-inch pot ; give them a good watering, and 
plunge in bottom heat of about 75°. The propagating pit would 
presumably be used at this season, and if the temperature be over 
70° the lights should be removed, providing the house temperature is 
about 65°. When sufficiently rooted they should be potted off (also 
layers), gradually hardened, and taken into a cool house, where they 
should remain until safe to go outside, potted, and treated in the same 
manner as previously stated as regards staking, watering, topping, &c. 
These plants that were rooted in the above-named season should be 
topped later, so that some will be coming into bloom about the 
beginning of the following year, to succeed those that have been 
flowering during the late autumn and winter, which will then be going 
off and used for propagating, and may continue until the summer¬ 
flowering varieties are in bloom. Thus by having two sets of plants, 
both early and late sorts in each, by skilful culture and good manage¬ 
ment starting them into flower when about one year old with a good 
selection, including the summer flowering varieties, I see no reason why 
Carnation blooms cannot be ob’ained all the year round. Old plants 
