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JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 22, 1890. 
J. Laing & Sons of Forest Hill, Mr. H. James, Castle Nursery, West 
Norwood, being second. Ferns were shown fairly well by Mr. James, 
and Mr. G. Collins, gardener to G. Anderson Rose, Esq., Wandsworth 
Common, had some small but fresh elean plants. The class for Cala- 
diums brought out some of the well-known speeimens of Messrs. J. 
Laing & Sons, which have been so much admired at many important 
shows. Azaleas (eight plants) were best shown by Mr. James. The 
•finest specimens were Magnet and Iveryana, a large plant of Magnifica 
not being thoroughly furnished. Mr. C. Turner, Eoyal Nurseries, 
Slough, was second. 
Gloxinias, Calceolarias, and Spiraias were not extensively shown, 
'but they formed very attractive features nevertheless. The Society’s 
•prizes for twelve of the former ■were won by Messrs. Nunn and 
C. Collins. Mr. J. Lambert, gardener to 11. W. Segelcke, Esq., Herne 
Hill, won with six ; some of his p’ants were packed with blooms, 
one having about fifty. Messrs. Sutton & Sons offered prizes for 
plants of their well-known strain. Mr. Nunn was the only com¬ 
petitor, but he well deserved the first prize awarded to him, the 
plants being finely grown, and the merits of the strain were 
■evident from the high quality of the fiowers. Twelve herbaceous 
Calceolarias were asked for in Class 10, and Mr. J. Mursell, 
gardener to Mrs. Burton, Streatham, was placed first. Mr. Guyett, 
gardener to J. Gabriel, Esq., Streatham, won with six, these showing 
improvement in the quality of the flowers. Mr. W. Morle, 283, Regent 
■Street, London, W., had some fair Spiraeas, and Mr. Sullivan, gardener 
to D. B. Chapman, Esq., Roehampton, won with table plants. 
The Pelargonium prizes were left to Mr. Turner. He was the only 
•exhibitor of show and decorative plants or fancies, but his specimens 
formed a feature in themselves, and the first prize was awarded in 
each case. 
Pansies and Violas, cut and in pots, formed one of the most beautiful 
■displays in the Show, these sweet and popular flowers being exten- 
■sively exhibited. The best twelve pots of show varieties came from 
Mr. R. Dean, Ranelagh Road, Ealing, and the best Fancies from Mr. 
F. Hooper, Vine Nurseries, Widcombe Hill, Bath. These were a beauti¬ 
ful lot of plants, the quality of the flowers being excellent. Violas in 
.pots were a delightfully fresh and fragrant display. Messrs. G. Paul 
and Son, The Old Nurseries, Cheshunt, had a splendid collection. Mr. 
Hooper was first with twelve bunches of cut Pansies, and Messrs. 
C. Paul & Son with Violas. A beautiful collection of Pansies, not 
for competition, was shown by Messrs. Ryder & Son, Sale, Manchester. 
Roses were not exhibited in the class provided for them, but this was 
more than compensated for by the magnificent display arranged by 
Messrs. W. Paul & Son of Waltham Cross. 
Cut flowers were a large and rich display. The prizes for groups of 
hardy flowers arranged for effect brought three beautiful collections 
from Messrs. Ware, Tottenham ; G. Paul & Son, Cheshunt; and Barr 
and Son, King Street, Covent Garden, who were first, second, and third 
in the order of their names. Cut stove and greenhouse flowers were 
best shown by Messrs. Gibson, gardener to J. K. B. Atkins, Esq., 
Bevenoaks ; and J. Nicholson, gardener to W. Blelles, Esq., Chingford. 
Vases and epergnes were fairly good, bouquets beautiful. Examples 
of the latter from Messrs. Perkins & Sons of Coventry were the perfec¬ 
tion of tasteful arrangement. 
Mr. F. Hooper was awarded a first-class certificate for a large 
double white “ perpetual or winter-flowering ” Pink named Her 
Majesty, which ought to prove very useful. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs —Early Forced Trees hi Hof.?.—When all the fruit has been 
■gathered from trees of the small early varieties, such as Early Violet, 
remove the loose portion of previous mulchings, and supply well de¬ 
composed manure, which will encourage root action and assist the trees 
to perfect the second crop. Other trees when the fruit is gathered must 
be treated in a similar manner. If the trees have become infested with 
red spider or scale thoroughly cleanse them by means of a softsoap 
solution, two ounces to a gallon of water, applied with a soft brush or 
sponge, and syringe them twice a day. In order to destroy the scale it 
must be dislodged. Although a second crop is serviceable a good first 
crop is much more valuable, therefore be content with a moderate 
second crop, or none at all if the trees have been severely taxed by a 
heavy first crop, as they must have vigour to give a full crop when 
iorced early year after year ; therefore give them a chance to make and 
perfect growth. 
Vines. — Houses of Fipe Grapes. —Afford fire heat only to prevent 
-the temperature falling below C0°, and to admit of a rather free circula¬ 
tion of air. Do not allow the border to become dry, at least not very 
<lry, but keep it moist and mulch with rather dry litter from which the 
•dung has been removed ; it will retain moisture a long time, and lessen 
the evaporation from the surface of the border, thoueh a little moisture 
in the air is not injurious to the Grapes, and is highly beneficial to the 
foliage, which must be kept clean and healthy. Fumigation must be 
resorted to if thrips appear ; for red spider there is no safer remedy than 
carefully sponging the leaves with soapy water. A double thickness of 
herring nets should be placed over the roof lights where Hamburghs are 
hanging in order to enable them to keep colour. 
Temperature. —Bright weather greatly improves the condition of 
Vine foliage, especially where due attention is given to the ventilation. 
Employ as little fire heat as possible, for with sun heat and plenty of 
atmospheric moisture more real benefit is gained in a week than in a 
month of dull weather with the aid of fires. With Vines in full growth 
the temperature may be allowed to rise to 90° or 93°, closing the house 
at 85°, employing fire heat only to maintain a temperature of 70° to 75°, 
and to prevent its falling below G0° to G5° at night. These remarks 
apply only to Vines in full growth, as those with the Grapes approaching 
ripening should have a rather free circulation of air, those well advanced 
in ripening being kept cooler and drier. Admit air very early in the 
morning, as the sun’s rays act powerfully on the condensed moisture 
formed on the foliage during the night, causing scorching, unless air has 
been previously admitted. 
Traiiihiy, SUpping, ,fo. —The growths must be trained in as they' 
advance. Every precaution should be taken to secure the full and 
complete formation and development of the principal leaves—indeed all 
foliage must be exposed to light and air, therefore encourage no more 
foliage or growth than will secure an equal spread, every leaf having a 
full and free exposure to the sun. Cleanliness is essential, therefore 
insect pests must be combated on their first appearance. A few leaves 
infested with red spider are soon cleansed with a syringe and soapy 
water, but the work of cleansing a house is another affair, and procrasti¬ 
nation mostly results in berries of the ruby instead of the sloe colour. 
Stop the shoots at every Increase of growth, not allowing them to be a 
yard long, and then cut them back to joint, a barrow being required to 
clear the trimmings away, but there should be no more from a large 
house than the operator can remove in his apron. 
Watering. —Routine is excellent; attention to details is the founda¬ 
tion of success. It is usual to supply water to Vines at stated intervals 
—viz., to render the border thoroughly moist when starting the Vines, 
when the Grapes attain thinning size, and when they are commencing 
to colour. Those are very good rules' as regards watering with a 
view to feeding, and ought to be attended to, but inside borders must 
be watered more frequently. There are more failures from an in¬ 
sufficiency of water at the roots of Vines than from overwatering if 
the borders are properly constructed and the drainage complete. Time 
will depend upon the-stateof the Vines and the rooting area. Twice 
a week after the Vines are in full foliage may not be too much for 
those in narrow borders. It would drown those that have a large 
rooting area ; but we may safely puf; it that Vines in a fairly sized 
border fully occupied with roots will require water once a vveek. 
Vines in strong loam only require half the water of those in a sieve¬ 
like border of sandy loam. Therefore all cultivators must be guided 
by circumstances. Some soils— i.e., loams, are naturally very loose, 
and they have the usual opening materials added or lime rubbish and 
charco.al, which makes them still more sieve-like. The consequence is 
water is more frequently needed, besides the danger of attendirig the 
finish of Grapes grown on such soil through insufficient supplies of 
water leading to attacks of red spider and thin foliage, which does 
not store nearly so much assimilated matter as the thick and leathery 
leaves on Vines in a firm soil of a rather retentive nature. Such soil 
will require water less frequently, but in no case must there be lack of 
moisture at the roots throughout the swelling period. 
Late Vines. —These are in flower. Maintain a minimum temperature 
of 70°. Shaking the rods twice a day will be sufficient in most cases to 
distribute the pollen effectually, but in the case of shy setters fail 
not to resort to artificial impregnation, examining the bunches carefully 
with a camel’s hair brush. All the large berried varieties, such as Gros 
Colman, Gros Guillaume, &c., which are good setters, should be thinned 
whilst they are in flower, and with those that are liable to have closely 
set berries it is a good plan to thin them before the flowers expand ; a 
practised eye can tell which flower buds are likely to set, and the 
removal of the weaker strengthens them wonderfully. Whilst the 
Vines are in flower do not pinch or stop the laterals, but when the 
blooms are fairly set remove the laterals at once to prevent crowding. 
Planting Young Vines in Groioth. —Those struck from eyes in 
February or March and grown in pots or turves may from now to the 
early part of June be planted out,'giving them a good soaking with 
water at 90° to 100°, mulching the surface with a couple of inches of 
short, rather lumpy manure. A humid atmosphere should be main¬ 
tained, and shade afforded from bright sun until they become 
established. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The weather of late has been greatly in favour of vegetables, and 
crops rarely appeared more promising, but they must not be neglected, 
as it is by giving attention to them during gro'>vth that they develop 
their fullest qualities. 
Earthing up Crops.—I f Cauliflower, Cabbage, or any crop that 
produces a clear stem is allowed to grow on the level ground, many of 
the plants will fall over before they have gained maturity, but when 
the soil is drawn up on each side they are held firm. We earth up Peas, 
Broad Beans, Cabbage, Cauliflower, and other crops evidently to their 
advantage. 
Thinning Young Vegetables. —If Carrots, Parsnips, and such 
like plants are allowed to grow without thinning, they cannot be satis- 
faetory. Neglecting to thin is a great evil, and deferring it is almost as 
