Blay 22, JSO’. ] 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
431 
bad, aa when once the plants have been drawn up by excessive crowd¬ 
ing, they will never attain the excellency they would have done if they 
had been properly thinned from the first. 
Tr.\^nsplaxtixg. —It is a great mistake to allow Cauliflower, 
Brussels Sprouts, Lettuce, &c., to remain too long in the seed beds. 
There is little use in waiting for all the plants being ready for trans¬ 
planting, and the work should be done at intervals as the plants become 
large enough. When the soil is dry at planting time we still approve of 
the old-fashioned plan of dipping the roots in a paint like mixture of 
clay, soot, and lime. This is also a good plan to follow before planting 
in soil where grubs exist. 
Se.akalk Flowering. —The roots which were not transplanted in 
winter are forward in their growth. Many of their shoots show signs 
of flowering, but this should not be allowed, and every flower must be 
removed before it opens, 
French BE.iN3. —In case of failure with the first crops sow more 
seed everywhere, and in districts where early sowing cannot be prac¬ 
tised a sowing may now. be safely made, as it will be June before 
the plants appear above the ground, and there will be little danger of 
their failing then. If early produce is desired, let them have a warm 
sheltered position. We rarely sow seed of dwarf varieties after May, 
but depend on the runner Beans from the end of July onwards. In 
small gardens, however, where runner Beans shade many of the other 
crops the dwarfs are best. One of the most productive ways of growing 
runner Beans for a small supply is to sow them in groups. A dozen 
plants in a circle will produce as many pods as three times that number 
m a row. In a garden where prizetaking Runners have been produced 
for many years they have grown on this system. 
Turnips.— These are amongst the most difficult of crops to secure 
early. They are difficult to force and only make slow progress until the 
middle of May at least. The plants from early sowings in March are 
apt to run to seed before producing good roots ; but all seed sown after 
this time will produce remunerative crops, and such varieties as Snow¬ 
ball and Red Globe may be sown now. These will form roots in July, 
and although they may not run to seed they soon become hard and hot 
in flayout They should, therefore, only be grown in small quantities 
at this time, and an additional sowing may be made once a fortnight. 
This will insure a supply of juicy tender bulbs in spite of heat or 
drought. 
Spinach. —The Prickly variety sown last autumn has been doing us 
excellent service until now. It was well gathered down during the 
winter, but in April it became quite luxuriant, but it has now become 
tough and flavourless, and as our spring sowings of the round seeded 
variety is now ready for gathering the old plantations are being cleared 
off. The spring sowings will be good for a month or so, then they 
will show an inclination to run to seed. This disposition will be dis¬ 
played until the approach of autumn, and all who have to keep up a 
supply during the whole of the summer must sow the seed often in a 
rich cool soil. A north border is a good position for it after this time. 
Celery. —Our earliest plants are out in the trenches. They num¬ 
ber about 500, and are planted in three rows in each trench. These will 
meet our demands from August to October, and as we do not approve of 
having Celery ready in September, that is not required until November, 
the second plants will not be placed out until June. They are very 
small now. They have only been transplanted from the seed boxes to 
a gentle hotbed, and under a frame, and all who wish to have good late 
supply may still sow seed. Sow it in a frame on the moat gentle of hot¬ 
beds, or, failing this convenience, in the open ground. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Primulas. —The earliest plants, if they have been carefully hardened, 
will now succeed in a cool house or frame. If kept too long in a close 
atmosphere they are drawn up weakly. These plants are easily checked, 
and therefore must be carefully hardened before removing them 
from a warm to a cool structure. It is a good plan when they are 
removed to cool frames to plunge the small pots amongst ashes or leaf 
mould. The plants delight in a cool base, and water is required less 
frequently. If possible select for them a position where they can enjoy 
abundance of light without having to shade them. Bright sunshine is 
detrimental. For late spring flowering a little more seed should be 
sown. These are excellent for flowering during April .and May, and 
often give greater satisfaction than the plants raised from seed sown 
earlier. 
Potible Varieties. —Trim off the lower foliage, then turn the plants 
out of their pots, and remove their drainage. This allows them to drop 
lower into the pots, and will leave ample space for top-dressing with 
light sandy material. This should be slightly raised about the rim of 
the pots to the base of the leaves remaining. It the plants are removed 
to a shady position, where they can be kept close and moist, they will 
soon emit roots from the stem, and when well rooted each portion can 
be taken off and placed singly in small pots in a compost of loam, leaf 
mould, and sand. This is a more certain method of propagation than 
by cuttings. Small plants that are well established in 2-inch pots 
should be placed into i-ineb, and grown on for a time in an intermediate 
temperature. 
Primula cJccw/cd.— IVhen once these plants are fairly started and 
ready for 2-inch pots, they grow much more satisfactorily in cold shady 
frames than in close healed structures. This is probably one of the 
most useful conservatory plants that can be grown, and seed may still 
be sown and good plants raised for flowering next spring. 
Cyclamen. —Plants that are well established in small pots may be 
transferred into others 2 inches larger. Use for a compost loam and 
leaf mould in nearly equal proportions, with the addition of sand.. 
Keep the plants in an intermediate temperature, and be careful not 
to overshade them. Those raised from seed sown some time ago may be 
placed singly in small pots and grown with the earlier batch of plants. 
Those that have flowered will do best in cold frames. They should 
not be allowed to become dry. 
Chrysanthemums. —The whole of the early flowering section should 
be placed in their largest pots and a sheltered position found for them 
outside. It is a good plan to shade them on the north side with mats 
for a time until they take freely to the new soil and display signs of 
active growth. Cuttings may still be inserted of nearly all varieties^ 
and good plants in C and 7-inch pots can be produced which will carry 
one good bloom, or three of moderate size. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. —Do not grow them in too warm a house, but 
aim at a dwarf sturdy growth. It is a mistake to hurry those intended 
for autumn and winter flowering. Carefully harden those that were- 
rooted early and place them in cold frames, so that they will be ready 
for placing outside by the time they need larger pots ; O-inch pots are 
very suitable. Cuttings may still be rooted. Place them singly in 
small pots, and when well rooted 4-inch pots will be suitable. 
Lilium lancijolium. —Bulbs that have been started in the green¬ 
house will he better in cold frames where they can have a cool base and 
plenty of air. If aphides attack them dip the points of the plants in 
diluted tobacco water. 
QUERIES AND ANSWERS. 
Fertile Workers. 
I n.vvE been troubled with what appears to be a queenleas 
hive ; there is, however, a fertile worker. It wintered well and 
was very active. The cold weather came on three weeks or more 
ago, and when I looked at the entrance I saw a great change, and I 
suspected there was no queen. I made an internal examination. 
I found a good deal of drone brood, no worker brood or worker 
eggs, but drone eggs in worker cells, two and three in one cell. 
Now when bees have been long without a queen do they give up 
all attempt to make a queen if they get eggs from them ? There 
are a number of worker bees as well as drones. Will you tell me- 
what you think is best to to done ? I am not disposed to weaken 
another hive by removing comb.—F. M. A. 
[Your method of getting rid of the fertile worker seems to- 
have been successful, although I have frequently failed by a similar 
process. Bees that have been long queenless are sometimes longer 
in beginning to raise a queen, but do not always refuse to do so 7 
nevertheless, queens raised by aged and long queenless bees are 
often imperfect, but when a comb of brood contains eggs and 
larvm. and is covered with young bees, good queens will be raised p 
but it is not commendable to weaken a stock at this season for that 
purpose, as it will be no good except to join to another hive, and 
young queens raised in the natural way are better. With such 
hives it is better to leave them alone and place a swarm on th& 
combs. The experiment goes far to dispel the idea that bees can 
lay at will ; before they can do so they must have been reared to it. 
while in the larvae state.] 
Louper Bee.s. 
“ L. B.” says he is losing a great many bees ; they run about on 
the ground in great numbers, and are termed by old bee-keepers 
“ loupers,” a disease which attacks bees at this season, and asks tha 
cause and the remedy. The cause is the weather, and the remedy is 
to discontinue artificial feeding and manipulations during spring. 
The cause of the bees being in a disabled state is their being 
stimulated to leave their hives, which they would not otherwise do 
if left alone, at a time when they cannot return with safety, falling 
victims to the cold of the ground. This is the result of indiscreet 
advice that causes loss amongst bees and loss to the bee-keepers 
given by inexperienced but perhaps zealous persons. 
Renewing Queens. 
I have just bought two stocks, one hive of black bees, and the 
queen is somewhere under two years old ; the other stock is of 
hybrid Carniolians, queen two years old next month. When should 
I have fresh queens, and how ought I to proceed ? I would like to 
work one stock for swarms, and one for honey. I have liad no 
experience. Should the queen for the hybrid stock be a Carniolian 
or a hybrid ?— Tyne. 
[You wish to work one stock for honey and one for swarm.s. 
It is unnecessary to sacrifice one stock to queen rearing alone, and 
