442 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 29, 1890 
Prick out seedlings into pans or boxes, and harden o£E prior to planting ) 
out. 
June .—All old plants of the perpetual varieties intended to be 
planted out should be done at once. The earlier plants should have 
their final potting. Summer varieties will now begin to show their 
buds. All these should be neatly staked, as they will be sufficiently 
advanced to decide the length. Attention should be given to slitting 
and tying the calyx should any require it. As the flowers expand 
remove to the conservatory cr any structure intended for their 
reception, and any left outside should be protected from the rain. 
Plant out seedlings in well prepared beds or borders. Manure water 
can be given to those in pots if well rooted. Keep a sharp look out for 
earwigs, grubs, green fly, &c. Plants bedded out should also be staked 
and generally attended to. Should the weather be dry they should be 
kept well watered to help them to expand their blooms. 
July .—Perpetuals in pots: Watering, staking, and topping will be the 
general attention they will require this month, besides giving the last 
shift to the later batch. Cuttings should be taken from the old plants in 
the manner previously described. Summer varieties ; Follow on the rule 
given for the preceding month as regards their general wants, besides 
attending to cuttings as above. Fertilisation should also be done 
if any inclination is apparent. Plants in beds should be looked after 
for watering and tying ; this will be their chief requirement, besides 
having an eye on them in case of any pest. Any seedlings planted out 
the previous year can be looked over, all worthless ones pulled out, the 
rest marked according to their colour and merit. 
August .—Perpetuals in pots: Discontinue topping those required to 
flower the following month from the beginning of the present. Care¬ 
fully attend to their wants as watering, training, &c. Manure water 
might now be commenced with, also soot water if needed. Start 
layering if not already done last month, and continue until finished. 
Look to cuttings put in last month. Gradually expose and pot off any 
that are rooted. This would also apply to summer varieties in pots, 
beds, or borders as regards layering, removing all p''ants in pots into 
the open air when layered, pinching off all dead blossoms and cutting 
down the stems as they go out of flower. Carefully watch and gather 
all seed pods when sufficiently ripened, and put on a piece of paper near 
the glass to finish off. 
Septemler .—Layering of all varieties should be finished up at once 
if any have been left so late. Preparations can be made in getting 
the Perpetuals to where they are intended to remain and flower through¬ 
out the winter and following spring, which should not be left later than 
the middle of the month. See that the pots are washed and all plants 
cleaned before housing, giving abundance of air after they are in. 
Those coming into bloom should be treated according to their require¬ 
ments. Pot off all layers and cuttings that are rooted, and the above 
variety should be in their winter quarters about the above date. The 
summer flowering varieties should also be potted off; these might be left 
until next month before taken inside. Look after seed as advised last 
month. 
October .—All plants of perpetuals both flowering and newly potted 
ones should be comfortably settled in their new quarters, giving the 
former manure and soot water occasionally, guarding against all insect 
pests and diseases, tying up all shoots as they require it. The latter 
must be watered very cautiously, giving plenty of air in favourable 
weather. Summer varieties if not in cold frames where intended to be 
wintered should not be delayed later than the middle of the month, 
keeping each sort separate by itself ; one label would suffice for each 
variety, putting a different number to each sort, and a piece of lath 
on label in every pot with the number on corresponding to the label. 
Besides giving water, if necessary, very little else will be needed, giving 
air by keeping the lights off as much as possible. If accommodation 
cannot be afforded for all under cover, the layers of some of the hardiest 
sorts might be left outside in”the ground. 
November .—The watering of perpetuals in flower should be done in 
the morning, taking care not to spill any, keeping a free circulation of 
air, and using a little artificial heat occasionally in dull weather to 
insure against mildew, and keeping a dry healthy atmosphere. Pick off 
all decayed foliage and petals, and keep all shoots tied up, and look 
sharp after green fly. Those in small pots should have much about the 
same atmosphere as above; water very sparingly, and keep the same 
look out for insects. Besides airing and looking to the surface of the 
soil to keep any green from collecting on it to those in cold frames will 
meet about all their requirements. Protection should be given to plants 
in the open ground in case of bad weather. 
December .—The days being very short this month there is conse¬ 
quently less light; all the plants will appear to be on the standstill. 
Perpetuals that are in flower will require the greatest care as to water¬ 
ing and airing, only giving the former when really needed—in fact, it 
would be safest to be on the dry side during this month, giving air, with 
a little heat circulating in the pipes, whenever there is the slightest 
chance, paying the same attention as advised last month as to picking 
off a’l decayed foliage and blooms, constantly watching for insects and 
disease. Follow the same principles as above for airing the autumn- 
rooted plants of the above variety, watering only if really necessary. 
Water should be withheld altogether from those in cold frames. Keep 
all decayed foliage picked off, stir the surface of the soil if required, 
cover up in sharp weather, look out for diseases prevalent during the 
winter.— David Coopee. 
The Weathee. —“B. D." writes from Perthshire—“May 19th- 
2Gth. Dull weather marked the first three days of the week, the 
three following days were bright and warm. On the 22nd the 
thermometer stood at 72° in the shade. On Sunday a cold, hard east 
wind made a somewhat dull day rather unpleasant, and during last 
night the lowest temperature for the week was reached, 39°. The 
foliage of trees is now very dense ; heavy Apple blossom everywhere in 
this quarter; Lilac, Laburnum and Hawthorn approaching luxuriant 
bloom ; Broom laden with flower.” In the south it has been warm 
and bright generally. 
-Gaedenees’ Royal Benevolent Institution.—W e are 
glad to observe from a further list of supporters of the Institution 
that contributions are steadily flowing in. We hope the flow will 
continue, and that the Chairman of the anniversary dinner, Mr. H. J. 
Veitcb, will have a good sum to announce for the Institution on 
■June 12 th. 
-Eaely Steawbeeeies.—a daily paper says seven tons of 
Strawberries were received at Southampton from St. Malo last Friday, 
with the information that the crop is an abundant one in the west of 
France, and heavy consignments may be expected. 
- Laxton’s Noble Steawbeeey.— This I find disappointing 
grown in the same house with Sir J. Paxton. Noble ripened a week the 
earlier, with good crop, size, and colour, but flavourless and dry. “ Not 
suitable for growing under glass ” is the verdict here.—J. E. 
- Bieds’ Nests in Kale. —Mr. E. W. Claydon, Tanhurst, 
Dorking, writes, “ A chaffinch and a hedge sparrow have built their 
nests in some .of Suttons' Branching Kale now growing in our garden. 
The chaffinch’s nest has eggs ; the sparrow’s nest is full of young birds.” 
- Me. Haetland’s Daffodil Geounds, Coek.—W e have 
been informed that Mr. W. B. Hartland has been obliged, by a clause in 
his lease, to surrender his term of Temple Hill, so that all transactions 
are now conducted at Ard-Cairn, Cork. The position is sheltered, and 
the soil a deep hazel loam resting on limestone, and well adapted for 
the cultivation of Tulips in addition to Daffodils. 
- Hints in Nepenthes Cultuee.—S trong well-established 
plants that were pinched early in the year may have made growths 
that require pinching again. To obtain a constant supply of pitchers 
the shoots should be stopped when they have made four or five joints. 
They start freely, and the plants are kept bushy in this way. Shade 
the plants from bright sunshine or the foliage will soon turn brown. 
Give a bountiful supply of water, and syringe the plants freely at least 
twice daily. If infested with thrips, syringe them thoroughly with a 
solution of tobacco water.—B. 
- Plants of Euphoebia jacquini^floea that have shoots 
3 inches long should be removed to a cool house for a fortnight to 
harden them before inserting the growths. If they are taken from 
plants in a warm moist atmosphere they are certain to suffer from 
damp. After they have been hardened, remove them with a sharp 
knife just where they issue from the old wood. Insert them in sand 
and cover them with a bellglass. By this treatment very few will damp 
