aiay £9, 189’. ] 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
453 
injurious sunshine, and also providing more fruiting branches. Where 
good clusters of fruit are set these ought to be early thinned out, the 
final thinning being completed according as the green fruits are fit for 
cooking. 
Cherries. —There is every probability of heavy crops. Much that 
has been advanced concerning Plums also applies to Cherries other 
than the Morello, which last bears fruit principally on young shoots 
pruned during the previous season. The spurs ought to be formed about 
4 inches or rather more apart on the branches, the young shoots being 
thinned out accordingly, and those reserved stopped at the fourth 
or fifth joint. Young branches of these should be laid in to their 
full length wherever there is good space for them, crowding, however, 
being most unwise. Cherries are not often thinned, but it is advisable 
if extra fine fruit are desired. The trees are frequently early infested 
with black aphis, but timely washings with some kind of insecticide, or a 
decoction of quassia chips and softsoap, prevent much injury being done. 
Pe.\rs.— As a rule these are setting better than is sometimes the 
case when the trees are extra floriferous. Directly it is seen a heavy 
crop of fruit is set, the thinning out should be commenced, and be 
somewhat severe, or most of the fruit may drop. A close look-out must 
be kept for egg-covered leaves and caterpillars. It is the timely 
stitch, or hand-picking, that frequently preserves the crops and foliage from 
caterpillars. Pear growth on wall trees is early and strong, the shoots 
being invariably the most crowded and forward at the points of leading 
branches. These ought to be freely thinned out, leaving those only 
where either a fresh branch or a fruiting spur is needed. The former to 
be allowed to grow unrestricted, and the latter stopped at the fourth or 
fifth leaf or joint. Young trees especially ought to be Well a^^tended 
to, an early and strong growth on these being desirable. 
Gooseberry Houses. —There must now be plenty of openings in 
these, in order to give access to birds that prey upon caterpillars. 
Exclude these, and the trees may be quickly cleared of leaves and the 
crops spoilt. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines —Under good management the finest fruits develop when 
they show from ten to twelve months from the time the suckers were first 
potted, but some allowance must be made for autumn potted suckers, 
which have to make part of their growth under adverse influences. 
Plants that were finally potted last September will now be showing 
fruit, and if not means should be adopted to effect it. Plants of that 
age not exhibiting signs of fruiting should be subjected to comparative 
rest for a period of four to six weeks, lowering the heat at the roots to 
7.0°, and admitting air fully at 75° to 80°, and letting the temperature fall 
to 75° before closing the house for the day. Very little artificial heat 
will be necessary, but it must be afforded if necessary to prevent the 
night temperature falling below C0°. The plants must not be allowed 
to become excessively dry at the roots, but whenever a plant needs it 
afford water liberally. The smaller suckers potted this spring should be 
kept growing until the pots are well filled with roots, then, if it be 
necessary, the plants can be subjected to the same course of treatment 
as advised for the larger plants, and these will afford a successional 
supply of fruit. 
The strongest suckers potted last March should be in their largest 
pots. If they are not yet in them no further delay should be tolerated, 
as to retain them long in small pots is detrimental to aftergrowth. 
Recently potted plants should have a regular bottom heat of 85° to 90°, 
and be copiously watered after potting, then no more should be given 
until the soil becomes dry, as it is necessary to exercise more care than 
usual at this stage, the state of the individual plants being ascertained 
before watering. 
Young stock will be making rapid progress, and should be regularly 
attended to in every particular, allowing the plants sufficient space for 
development, as nothing is so inimical as crowding them in their 
early stages. Ventilate early in the day at 75° to 80° to dry the 
foliage before it is affected by the sun. Discontinue shading successional 
plants, but for fruiting plants with the crowns in close proximity to the 
glass slight shade from powerful sun will be necessary to prevent 
scorching. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Early Ifouses. —Hale’s Early, Early 
Alfred, and Early York are excellent in quality, forming an admirable 
succession to the very early Peaches Alexander and Early Beatrice, and 
are closely followed by Royal George, which, with Stirling Castle, is the 
most certain and best coloured of Peaches early forced, but Dr. Hogg is 
a large well coloured fruit of good quality with a rather firm flesh, 
which enhances its value when fruit has to be packed. Lord Napier is 
the best of the early Nectarines, but it is not a good colourer, being sur¬ 
passed by much smaller varieties, such as Hunt’s Tawny, which 
invariably colours well. Admit plenty of air to the ripening fruit in 
the daytime, and at night also if a prolonged succession is required. 
When the crop is gathered resume syringing to cleanse the foliage from 
dust and red spider. The border must be maintained m a thoroughly 
moist state, as it is important that the foliage be kept clean and healthy 
as long as possible. The trees after fruiting should have the wood 
which carried the fruit cut away to the shoot at the base for next year’s 
fruiting, excepting those needful for the extension of the trees, and if 
the trees are too full of wood thin well so as to admit light and air to 
the shoots, and thereby insure their thorough ripening. 
Succestion, Jfoit/iex .—No great amount of artificial heat will now be 
necessary except in cold and dull weather, especially when the fruit is 
taking the last swelling or commencing ripening, to admit of a free cir¬ 
culation of air. Remove any leaves that shade the fruit too much, so 
that it may colour perfectly at the ripening period. The tying-in ot 
the shoots must be regularly attended to, slopping the laterals at the- 
first joint, and any shoots that cannot be a'lowed to e.xtend without 
crowding or encroaching on others stop at about 14 inches, exceptioa 
being made of extensions. Shoots retained level with or past the fruit 
to attract the sap to it should be stopped to one or two joints at each 
break. Syringing must be vigorously followed up morning and after¬ 
noon to keep red spider under, and the inside border attended to 
frequently with water. Admit air early in the day, as with large panes- 
of glass the sun often acts so powerfully on the foliage as to scorch it 
unless air has been previously admitted. 
Late Houses .—Thinning the fruit must be attended to ; very few 
more should be left after the fruit attains to the size of a Walnut than 
wilt be required for the crop, up to which stage the thinning should be 
gradual, and avoid over-burdening the trees, it being better to retain too 
few rather than too many fruits, as fine examples are always appreciated, 
while those lacking in size and quality are a source of complaint. It i.s 
a mistake to retain more shoots than there is room for, as if the wooil 
is not properly solidified as made, imperfectly formed buds result. 1 f 
aphides appear fumigate on two or three consecutive evenings, having 
the foliage dry, using a solution of softsoap, II to 2 ozs., to the gallon 
of water for arresting red spider, and against mildew dust with flowers 
of sulphur, use sulphur water, or employ sulphide of potassium. 
Melons. —Plants in Houses .—The weather has been most favour¬ 
able of late for imparting a rich flavour to Melons. The night air has 
been sharp, necessitating the employment of fires. At night the tempe¬ 
rature may range from C0° to (15°, 70° to 75° by day being secured 
artificially, admitting a little air at and above the latter, allowing an 
advance to 85° or 90°, closing at 80° to 85°, but not so as to raise the 
temperature beyond 90° to 95°. Keep plenty of moisture in houses 
containing young growing plants or those swelling the fruit, gently 
damping the foliage, walls, floors, &c., and closing at about 3.30 P.M., 
or so early as safe. Feed plants liberally that have their fruits swelling, 
not allowing them to suffer through deficient supplies of water, and 
afford weak liquid manure. Fertilise all pistillate flowers daily to 
set the fruit, ensuring a somewhat dry atmosphere, not using ther 
knife during that period, but pinch out the points of the shoots one or 
two joints beyond the fruit. Earth up the roots as soon as the fruit 
is set and swelling, and examine the plants frequently for the removal 
of superfluous growths, not allowing them to interfere with the prir.- 
eipal foliage. Shade as little as possible, and only to prevent flagging. 
When the fruit is cut from the earliest plants the old stem may be 
cut back to a strong shoot near its base, removing as much of the sur¬ 
face soil as can be picked out from among the roots, replacing with 
rather strong lumpy loam pressed well down, and giving a good water¬ 
ing. A moist atmosphere being maintained and the plants syringed in 
the morning and about 4 p.m. they will soon start freely, showing fruit 
in much less time than by planting afresb. If, however, the plants are 
affected with canker, or from carrying too heavy a first crop of fruit, a 
deficiency of water or attacks of insects, are much enfeebled, it is better 
to remove them, thoroughly cleansing the house, placing strong plants 
in ridges or hillocks as advised in former calendars. 
Plants in Pits and Frames .—When fruits are ripening they should 
be exposed to the sun by raising them on inverted flower pots on a piece 
of slate. Admit air freely, and apply water only to prevent the foliage 
flagging. If a second crop is desired encourage about four shoots from 
each plant from the base of the stems now bearing, so that when the 
fruit is cut the old growths may be removed and young shoots sub¬ 
stituted. These will show fruit freely on the first laterals, every alter¬ 
nate lateral being rubbed off to prevent overcrowding. If a top-dressing 
of fresh compost be given, supplemented with a good watering with 
liquid manure, not too strong, at 90°, the plants will be assisted to make 
a vigorous second growth. A useful crop of Melons may be obtained by 
making up beds now of any spent material, which from mixing and' 
turning will generate a gentle warmth, placing over it frames which 
have been used for Potatoes, bedding plants, &o., placing in each light 
about two or three barrowfuls of rather strong loam mixed with some 
old mortar rubbish or road scrapings if deficient of grit, and pressing it 
down firmly. Into this, when warmed, turn out a strong healthy plant,, 
pressing the soil firmly about the roots, and give a good watering. If 
pits are employed the surface of the soil must be about a foot from the 
glass, and if the weather be bright afford shade for a few days after 
planting. Seed may yet be sown to raise plants for frames at present 
occupied by tender bedding plants. 
Strawberries in Pots. —Strawberries have been excellent, the 
runners were established in good time, and there is nothing like stored 
matter the season previous to forcing, especially in respect of early 
forced plants. If there is nothing in them it is quite clear nothing can 
be had out of them. Successional plants are affording excellent fruit. 
Copious supplies of water are necessary, especially in the early stages o£ 
swelling, for should the plants once lack that essential the fruit may be 
so dried as not to swell kindly afterwards, and a simewhat moist con¬ 
dition of the atmosphere is necessary to obtain well swelled berries ; 
therefore avoid drying currents, especially of cold air. The plants 
should be watered two or three times a day, according to the weather, 
and have liquid manure two or three times a week until the fruit com¬ 
mences colouring, after which give water only sufficient to prevent the, 
foliage flagging. This, with plenty of air, is conducive to flavour. 
Plants that are swelling their fruit under large panes of glass will be the 
better for a slight shade from powerful sun for an hour or two 1 1 
midday. They will swell to a much finer size, and it will not interfere 
with the quality if it is not continued too long. The drying influence 
