472 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[■ June 6, 189». 
Mr. H. Housley, with Lord Lilford ; third, Mr. T. Haynes, with Sir J. 
Paxton ; fourth, Mr. J. H. Wood, with Masterpiece. Bizarre flamed— 
First, Mr. H. Housley, with Sir J. Paxton ; second, Mr. D. Woolley, with 
the same ; third, Messrs. Stuart & Mein, with Dr. Hardy ; and fourth, 
Mr. K. Wolfenden, with the same. Eoses feathered—First and fourth, 
Mr. John Hayes, with Industry ; second, Mr. W. Kitchen, with Comte 
de Vergennes ; third, Mr. H. Housley, with Alice. Eoses flamed—First, 
Mr. Kitchen, with Mabel, second with Madame de St. Arnaud, third 
•with Aglaia, and fourth with Mabel. Bybloemen feathered—First, Mr. 
W. Dymock, with King of the Universe, and second with a seedling ; 
third, Mr. H. Housley, with Violet Amiable; and fourth, Mr. W. 
Kitchen, with Adonis. Bybloemen flamed—First, Messrs. Stuart and 
Mein, with Talisman ; second, Mr. D. Woolley, with the same ; third, 
Mr. W. Kitchen, with King of the Universe, and fourth with Adonis. 
Breeder Tulips were very largely shown, and they were singularly 
beautiful. There were five collections of six breeders,two of each class. 
Mr. A. Moorhouse was first with bizarres Dr. Hardy and Sir J. Paxton ; 
roses Miss Hindley and Mrs. Barlow ; bybloemens Leach’s Seedling and 
•Queen of May. These were very fine. Second, Mr. S. Barlow, with 
bizarres Hepworth’s 27 a and Sir J. Paxton ; roses Annie McGregor and 
Miss B. Coutts ; bybloemens William Parkinson and Miss B. Coutts. 
There were fifteen competitors in the class for three breeder Tulips, and 
■here Mr. J. Cliffe, Nesbitt Hall, Leeds, was first with very fine blooms 
of bizarre Hardwick’s No. 28, rose Queen of England, and bybloemen 
Parker’s King. Second, Mr. W. Kitchen, with bizarre Sir J. Paxton, 
rose Eose Hill, and bybloemen seedling. Third, Mr. H. Houseley. 
Single blooms of breeder Tulips were also very numerous, and the 
iiwards were as follows :—Bizarres : First, Mr. H. Houseley with Dr. 
Hardy ; second, Mr. A. Moorhouse with Sir J. Paxton ; third, Mr. H. 
Housely with Dr. Hardy ; fourth, Mr. S. Barlow with Eichard Yates. 
Eose breeders.—First, Mr. W. Kitchen with Eose Hill ; second, with the 
same ; and third, with Annie McGregor ; fourth, Mr. A. Moorhouse with 
Mrs. Barlow. Bybloemen breeders.—First, Mr. T. Haynes with Glory of 
Stakehill; second, Mr. A. Moorhouse with Unknown ; third, Mr. S. 
Barlow with Glory of Stakehill ; and fourth, with John Henry. 
The premier flamed Tulip was bizarre Sir Joseph Paxton, from 
Mr. D. Woolley; the premier feathered Tulip was bizarre Masterpiece, 
from Mr. B. Simonite ; and the premier breeder bizarre Sir J. Paxton, 
from Mr. A. Moorhouse. 
FEUIT FOECING. 
Figs. —Perfect fruit can only be had by keeping it free 
from damp during the ripening process, affording a free circulation of 
■dry warm air. Maintain the night temperature at C5° to 70°, by day 
at 75° to 80°, and with sun heat 80° to 90°. There is no comparison 
between Figs ripened in a close, moist atmosphere and in shade, and those 
in full exposure. It is necessary to afford a circulation of air constantly. 
If red spider become troublesome during the ripening it is a good plan 
to gather all the fruit about ripe, or sufficiently so for its being effected 
■with the fruit in an airy fruit room, and then give the trees a forcible 
syringing, directing the water against the under side of the leaves so as 
to dislodge the pest, and clear water being used and air admitted rather 
freely it \yill not interfere with the ripening of the fruit remaining, and 
by pursuing this process the pest may be kept from increasing very 
much until the fruit is gathered, when it may be destroyed by sponging 
■or otherwise, applying an insecticide. ° ° 
Second CrojJS. —Generous treatment is essential to ensure the second 
■crop of fruit swelling satisfactorily, syringing twice a day to keep red 
■spider in check, and affording liquid manure when watering is necessary, 
trees in pots requiring it daily, and those in borders once or twice a 
week according to the vigour of the trees and extent of the rooting 
area, trees in borders of limited extent requiring it more frequently 
than those with the roots less restricted. The second crop must be 
thinned where thickly set before the Figs are the size of Walnuts, and 
in thinning reserve the larger fruits at the base of the shoots. 
Yoimg Trees for Next Season's Forcing in Those coming on 
for early forcing must not on any account be neglected, or they will 
disappoint the grower. They must have all the light possible, and not 
be at a greater distance from the glass than is necessary for their 
growth, keeping them well syringed and supplied with liquid manure 
so as to secure a sturdy growth, and when the growth is complete they 
•may be placed outdoors in a sunny corner to rest, but they must have 
the wood thoroughly ripened, as all fruit trees, especially those for very 
early bearing, require to have the wood matured early. 
Vines. — Early Ilovses. —Where houses have been cleared of ripe 
fruit the foliage of the Vines should be cleansed of dust and red spider, 
employing tepid water, and if necessary an insecticide. On no account 
allow the borders to become dry, but afford water to the inside borders 
as necessary to maintain the soil in a moist condition, keeping the 
foliage clean and healthy to the last, that it may aid in the proper 
development of the fruit buds for another year’s crop. The leaves being 
WQHK/Oi\.™:WEEK.. 
fresh and clean keep the laterals in check hy pinching, yet if there be 
anything defeetive with the principal foliage a little more freedom may 
be allowed to the principal laterals. 
Harises with Fruit Swelling. —Maintain a warm genial condition of 
the atmosphere, damping the floors and borders two or three times a 
day, especially at closing time, and again before nightfall. Although 
fires cannot be dispensed with at night much may be done in economising 
fuel by closing early on fine afternoons, but it must be accompanied by 
plenty of atmospheric moisture. Do not allow the laterals to grow so 
as to crowd the principal leaves, but keep them well in hand, although 
where there is plenty of space they may be allowed to extend, yet nob 
so as to necessitate their removal in great quantity later on. 
Ilovses with the Fruit Rijrening. —Allow a constant and liberal 
supply of warm rather dry air, and do not neglect to afford a good 
watering, and if a slight mulching of short lumpy litter be applied it 
will tend to a more equable moisture at the roots. A moderate amount 
of air moisture must be accorded for the benefit of the foliage, but it 
must not be stagnant or it will prejudice the ripening, and without a 
good heat it is not possible to insure the highest quality. Indeed, there 
is no comparison between Grapes that are ripened in good heat and 
those finished in a low temperature. 
Grapes Scalding. —Muscats and Lady Downe’s completing the 
stoning must be watched in hot bright weather, and in case of scalding 
air must be admitted more freely for a fortnight or until colouring 
commences, when all danger will be over. Hamburghs, too, sometimes 
scald, which can mostly be avoided in their case by a good spread of 
foliage, and remedied by a bountiful supply of air by day, a little 
ventilation constantly at the upper part of the house, and a genial 
warmth in the hot-water pipes. 
Late Houses. —Late varieties of Grapes in flower must have a con¬ 
stant circulation of dry warm air, and a temperature of 70° to 75° at 
night, rising to 85° or 90° with sun heat, or without this the kinds that 
require some time to ripen do not set well, which more especially applies 
to the thick skinned varieties. Thin the berries freely as soon as they 
are set, but this, in the case of the shy setters, must be confined to the 
removal of the smallest and imperfect berries in the first instance, 
deferring the general thinning until the properly fertilised berries can 
be determined by their free swelling. There must not be any deficiency 
of moisture at the roots, therefore afford liquid manure copiously after 
the Grapes are thinned and swelling, or a top-dressing may be given of 
some approved artificial manure, distributing it evenly over the surface, 
and work it in with tepid water. Outside borders, if the weather be dry 
and the soil light, should be well w.atered, employing liquid manure at a 
temperature of 85° to 90° if the Vines are carrying a full crop and are 
not very strong. 
Vines in Pots for Next Year's Fruiting. —These should have the 
leading shoot or cane stopped at 8 to 9 feet, and the laterals or sub¬ 
laterals stopped at one leaf as produced. Supernumeraries in recently 
planted houses should also have the leading shoots pinched at the 
length indicated for pot Vines—that is, those intended to fruit next 
season, the laterals and sub-laterals being closely pinched, but the 
permanent canes may be allowed to make all the growth possible, as well 
as pot Vines not intended to fruit next season. Young Vines, after they 
become established, should be encouraged with plenty of water at the 
roots and abundant atmospheric moisture, closing the house early on 
fine afternoons, so as to husband sun heat and save fuel. 
Cherry House. —When the whole crop is perfectly ripe the chief 
consideration will be to prolong the season to preserve them fresh. 
Shading will do so, but it is only desirable when the fruit is exposed 
directly to the sun, owing to the limited foliage. Free ventilation must 
be attended to, and in hot weather a sprinkling of the surface of the 
border in the hottest part of the day will assist in keeping the fruit 
plump. The roots must not be neglected in the supply of water, for 
dryness is inimical to the development of the buds for the ensuing 
crop of fruit. 
KITCHEN GAEDEN. 
Brussels Sprouts. —These require about six months to perfect 
themselves, and to have the sprouts plentiful and fully developed in 
November the plants should be placed out in June. They succeed 
best in a somewhat heavy soil containing a good quantity of manure. 
If planted at a distance of 2 feet each way they will gain their full 
size, and be so hardy as not to be checked or injured by any severe 
weather that may occur in winter. They are most valuable for winter, 
remaining good and in season from October till April. Of late years 
some large sprouting sorts have been introduced, but for general useful¬ 
ness they are much behind the small hard sprouting sorts, and the 
only variety we are growing this year is the old Dalkeith. 
Broccoli. —Plants are strong, and the majority should be placed out 
in June, but July plants often prove serviceable too. Place out the 
largest plants first, and if space is deficient, and it is intended to 
plant more out when the early Potatoes and other crops are taken up, 
do not allow those in the seed beds to become crowded and drawn in 
the meantime, but take them up and replant them at a few inches 
apart in good soil to remain there till their permanent quarters are 
vacant. Keep them the same distance apart as the Brussels Sprouts, 
and plant them deeply, as they suffer less from drought then than if 
planted near the surface. 
Late Caulielcwer. —Only one variety is grown by us, and that 
is Veitch’s Autumn Giant. It is so well known as a good late Cauliflower 
and an indispensable variety, that it is almost superfluous to advocate 
its culture. It should be planted in June to give a supply in September 
