494 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
r June 12. 1890. 
ing, or tlie moisture will cause the skin to crack, spoiling its appearance, 
and leaving or giving an unpleasant musty flavour. Some kinds, as 
Noblesse, are apt to be spotted at the apex when exposed to the full 
glare of the sun under large panes of glass. A piece of paper tied to 
the trellis sufficiently large to reach over the fruit, t^r be drawn aside 
as required, is useful in preventing sun-burning, the paper being kept 
clear of the fruit, but so as to shield it from scorching sun, which 
insures more regular ripening, and the fruit having had full exposure 
duriug its growing season it will colour quite as well as if exposed 
in the last stages of ripening to its rays, which in the middle of the 
day are intense and heat the fruit to a high degree. The shade is 
only to be used during very bright weather for a few hours in the 
hottest part of the day. The paper shade secures very even ripening of 
the tender fleshed varieties, which in such varieties as Noblesse are, 
despite their paleness, the very highest in quality. 
Trees Started, at the JVeio Year. —Hale’s Early, A Bee, and Royal 
George, with Grosse Jlignonne ripen successionally from the beginning 
of June. They are best brought on slowly. It gives time for the 
development of the fruit in its various stages, and it insures, with due 
regard to ventilation, sturdy well-formed wood, and stout-textured 
foliage. These are matters of vital importance in forcing, it being 
essential that the trees be brought on gently and in accordanee with the 
weather or external influences, which will exert influence on the fruit. 
It will certainly be a little later, but it w'ill be heavier, and its juices 
being more fully elaborated be much higher in quality—indeed, where 
quality is wanted it, like good workmanship, must be allowed proper 
time. Mere size and even colour can be had, but there is no comparison 
of the fruit ripened in a high and moist atmosphere, also rather close, as 
compared with fruit finished in a well ventilated and naturally aided 
structure, no more artificial heat being employed than is necessary for 
the safety and gradual progress of the crop. There is a still further 
difference, that the fruits in the stage prior to stoning attain to a much 
larger size, and they make more rapid progress after that process is 
completed than those having more heat during the early stages. Then 
there is a difference as to the time of month the trees are started, also as 
to the treatment of the trees during the resting period. Those that have 
fixed roofs may, if the weather have been mild, have the buds advanced 
in swelling when the house is closed, whilst those that have been 
exposed will be fully a fortnight behind, assuming them to be started at 
the same time. These are matters requiring notice in calculating the 
time the fruit is to be ripe. After stoning the fruits assume colour and 
flesh quickly ; every attention should therefore be given the trees in 
watering, either with liquid manure or affording water through a mulch 
of rather short and thin lumpy manure. The shoots should be allowed 
to extend, so as to appropriate any excess of aliment whilst insuring a 
full supply, not pinching the laterals too closely ; but they and all 
growths must he kept from shading the fruit, which must be raised with 
its apex to the fullest light, which in fact ought to be attended to in the 
stoning period, as the more colour really the more highly its juices are 
elaborated and assimilated from the commencement the more perfect 
the fruit will be in colour and in quality. This can be effected by laths 
placed across the trellis and secured to the wires. Continue forcible 
syringings in all cases morning and afternoon until the fruit commences 
to ripen, then cease syringing, but do not allow the border and other 
surfaces to become parchingly dry, as moderate air moisture, provided 
the ventilation is liberal, will not injure the fruit, and it is absolutely 
necessary for the benefit of the foliage, the thorough maturity of the 
wood, and the perfecting of the buds for next season’s crop of fruit. 
Tree.s Started in Fehrvary .—Whilst stoning the temperature should 
be kept equable, and great care taken not to allow the heat to rise 
too high in the morning without ventilation, for the closeness prevents 
evaporation from the fruit, and air given after the temperature has risen 
to 80° and then full ventilation so causes the fruit and foliage to 
evaporate that it causes a chill, and also so severe a strain on the 
supply of sap that the foliage becomes limp, if it not actually flags, and 
the consequence is the fruit turns pale, and it falls in showers in the 
course of a few days. It was caused by inattention to early ventilation 
and the inaptitude of meeting contingencies as they arise, for had but a 
little air been given it is probable the chill and deprivation of nutriment 
w’ould have been avoided and the crop saved. There must not be any 
deficiency of water at the roots, and the foliage must be kept clean by 
daily syringing, and if necessary the prompt application of an insecti- 
■oide at a safe strength. Continue the temperature at ^60° to 65° arti¬ 
ficially, and a free circulation of air between 70° and 75°, having it full 
when the latter is reached, and close at 75° with plenty of atmospheric 
moisture. If the temperature rise to 80° or 85° it will not do any harm, 
but admit a little air before nightfall, so as to allow the pent up moisture 
to escape, and the temperature to gradually cool through the night. 
Commence increasing the ventilation with the advancing heat from 65°, 
erring on the side of safety. Peaches seldom cast their fruit in stoning 
■outside, a elear indication of its being accelerated by the vicissitudes 
incidental to forcing operations, and pointing to the necessity of early 
and at all times judicious ventilation. More disasters arise through 
inattention to routine than anything else, elose attention to details 
having its outeome in the most perfect product. 
Late 7Iov.se,s .—Late Peaches are even more desirable than early ones. 
They make a fine display at dessert, and are as regards quality very 
much improved in the newer varieties, such as Sea Eagle and Gladstone. 
They afford a supply up to mid October, and are simply superb. The 
borders must have proper supplies of water, or if the trees are weakly 
.and carrying full crops, supplies of liquid manure ; those at all vigorous 
and carrying thin crops of fruit should be given water only, and if 
possible affording them a freer circulation of air, so as to insure the 
more complete elaboration of the sap. Train the growths thinly and 
keep the laterals well in hand. There is no remedy for unfruitful and 
over-vigorous trees but root-pruning or lifting, which should be duly 
attended to in autumn. Keep the foliage clean and healthy, but do not 
syringe on dull days, and always sufficiently early to allow the foliage 
to become dry before nightfall. A light mulching will be beneficial to 
trees carrying full crops, accelerating the formation of roots and keep¬ 
ing them near the surface, so as to render them more free in trans¬ 
mitting support. It is necessary not to overburden the trees with more 
fruit in the early stages of growth than is necessary to remain for 
the crop, and a moderate crop is always better than a heavy one ; 
therefore thin well in the earlier stages, leaving a few more only to 
meet casualties than will be required ultimately. If aphides exist 
fumigate moderately on two or three consecutive evenings, or apply 
an insecticide at an efficacious and safe strength, as fumigation unless 
very carefully practised is liable to cause serious disfigurement of the 
foliage and often prejudices the crop more than is credited. 
THE ELOWER GARDEN. 
Flower Beds in Hot Weather .—Repeatedly drenching the ground 
with cold hard water is by no means conducive to the healthy growth of 
tender plants put out. The wiser course is to plant firmly and well, 
watering them in at the same time, yet another watering being necessary 
if the ground was in a somewhat dry state at planting time. Pelar¬ 
goniums and other kinds put out with a good ball of soil and roots soon 
commence active growth, and subsequently all that is necessary in this 
case is to lightly stir and level the surface of the beds and borders 
with small Dutch hoes. This serves to give the beds a neater appear¬ 
ance, and will also prevent the loss of much moisture by evaporation. 
A mulching of spent manure, leaf soil, cocoa-nut fibre, or the short 
grass from mowing machine also greatly saves the watering pot. All 
quite small and not well-rooted plants will recover most quickly if 
lightly shaded with branches of trees during very hot weather, and 
these should also be freshened, but not saturated, with water in the 
evening. 
Thinning Seeds have germinated strongly and well this 
season, and in very many instances if the plants are left to grow as 
thickly as they have come up, the floral display will be a short one, the 
quality of the flowers also being poor. Those that especially need to 
be freely thinned out in order to give every plant a chance to branch 
and grow strongly are Balsams, Cape Marigolds, Coreopsis, Candytuft, 
Chrysanthemums, Clarkias, Convolvulus, Eschscholtzias, Godetias, Heli- 
chrysums. Hibiscus, Lupins, Malopes, Nasturtiums, Sweet Peas, Poppies, 
Mignonette, Sweet Sultans, and Sunflowers. Transplanting may be 
attempted in some instances, but success will depend largely upon the 
state of the weather. During the prevalence of dull showery weather 
quite small plants may be lifted from among others with a label, and 
safely transplanted elsewhere, but it is of little use replanting any drawn 
out. 
Roses .—It is not often that those growing against sheltered or sunny 
walls flower better than they are doing this season, and there was never 
more blight or green fly on Roses generally, caterpillars also being far 
too abundant. Hand-picking is the best remedy for the latter, the 
caterpillars being removed with the damaged leaves, in which most of 
them will be found enclosed. Heavy rains or thunderstorms will fre¬ 
quently do much towards clearing the plants of aphis, but those who 
wish to have healthy bushes and good bloom must not wait for these. 
Well syringe the bushes and trees with either tobacco water or a decoc¬ 
tion of quassia chips and softsoap, repeating this a second or third 
time if necessary. Soak either 1 lb. of tobacco paper, or 4 ozs. of shag 
tobacco, in a gallon of hot soft water in which 4 ozs. of softsoap has 
been previously dissolved, and well syringe the trees with this when it 
has cooled. Half a pound of quassia chips may be boiled for fifteen 
minutes, or rather longer, in a gallon of soft water, 8 ozs. of softsoap 
being added at the finish. Strain off this solution, dilute with 12 
gallons of water, and then thoroughly wet all the affected branches 
with it. Ordinary soapsuds or water made soapy will do much towards 
clearing Rose trees of green fly, especially if it is forcibly applied with an 
engine. 
Thinning Ro.se Buds, Watering .— Large fully developed blooms 
are by far the most beautiful and generally serviceable. In order to 
be certain of these, thinning out the buds and feeding at the roots 
must be resorted to at the present time. The timely removal of all 
small and deformed side buds naturally greatly benefits those retained, 
and it is far from being tedious work. Small weakly growths, with or 
without buds attached, might also be removed with advantage, thinly 
grown vigorous shoots being the easiest to keep in a healthy clean state. 
Starvation treatment at the roots is never attended by fine blooms, and 
in the case of those trees against walls especially mildew is invariably 
in the ascendant. The latter at any rate rarely get enough water and 
liquid manure, yet they pay better than any for a little attention and 
labour in that direction. It is quite useless to give driblets to Roses 
wherever located. First form a basin by loosening and lightly forking 
back the soil from wall trees, and after the ground has been well soaked 
with clear water apply liquid manure of some land. Those newly 
planted ought to be prevented from flowering freely, and these this 
season have already required to be watered frequently. 
Mulching Shrubberies .—Flowering shrubs generally have been ex¬ 
ceptionally floriferous this seasor, and in many instances the whole are 
