Jane 19, 1890. J 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
517 
coloured varieties from injury by exposure to the sun. To grow Crotons 
well and develop the brilliant colours their foliage is capable of 
assuming plenty of light is essential. They are certain to be green or 
only poorly coloured if much shaded. Plants from which heads were 
taken will have produced good cuttings, which should be inserted singly 
in small pots, These, in consequence of small foliage at the base, will 
not be suitable for vases as single specimens, but they will produce good 
heads with bold foliage, .and prove suitable for many forms of decora¬ 
tion. Plants that are growing too tall may have good sized heads 
removed and inserted in 3-inch pots. The heads should be taken oH 
where the wood is not too firm, and then they can be rooted in a close 
frame or under handlights without losing a single leaf. 
Draeanas. —Where plants were cut up as directed and the stems 
placed in pans the young plants ■will be ready for potting singly in 
3-inch pots. These will soon start into vigorous growth if shaded from 
the sun, and kept close and in a moist atmosphere. If gentle bottom 
heat can be provided all the better. Stems may still be inserted as 
plants become bare and useless for decoration. Those that have good 
heads, but are bare at the base, may have them removed, inserted in 
bottles of water, and stood in brisk heat, or be taken off and inserted in 
sandy soil in small pots. These should be plunged and placed under 
handlights. Fine heads may be mossed just below good bold leaves, 
and cut partially through to induce them to form roots. There is no 
occasion to practise this method with D. Lindeni, D. gracilis, or 
U. Goldieana ; these root freely enough without even the aid of 
handlights. 
Gardenias. —Plants that have been cut back and have broken into 
growth may be placed into larger pots. These do well in equal portions 
of loam and peat with the addition of sand, or they may be grown 
satisfactorily in good loam and sand. Where peat is scarce or of inferior 
quality use one-third of leaf mould. Eepot young plants from time 
to time as they need more root room, and grow them fully exposed to 
the sun. Once they are growing freely do not keep them too close, but 
admit air daily to induce firm well matured growth. 
Poinsettias. —As these become established in I or 5-inch pots do not 
keep them too close and warm or they will run up quickly. Gradually 
lower the temperature until they can be placed in cold frames without 
checking them. In this position they will grow slowly, but their growth 
will be sturdy and in due time capable of yielding fine bracts. Cuttings 
may still be rooted by inserting them in small pots and placing them 
under handlights in a heated structure. Before inserting the cuttings 
place the stove plants for a few days or a week in a lower temperature. 
Water thoroughly after insertion, and shade the cuttings from the sun 
until they are rooted. 
Gloxinias. —Young plants established in small pots from seed sown 
this year may be placed into larger ones if they need it. Do not grow 
these too warm ; they succeed much better under cooler treatment than 
the stove affords. They need shading from the bright rays of the sun, 
and if the structure in which they are to be grown is kept moderately 
close little artificial heat will be needed. It is not wise to discontinue 
its use entirely, for a little warmth will be beneficial should the tem¬ 
perature externally fall low at night. 
Achimenes. —Cuttings may still be rooted by inserting them in 
5-inch pots. Fill the pots so that the plants can grow on together in 
them. They will root well in any clase moist shady structure. Those 
that are established and growing freely may have air admitted to them 
more liberally, and should enjoy a lower temperature, in fact they will 
do capitally with Gloxinias. 
Caladiums. —Do not grow these too warm or overshade them, or they 
will run up weakly and not have strength to support their large foliage. 
When grown under the influence of a moderate amount of light and air 
they will stand up without staking, and can be moved about to any 
position. Where plants of argyrites are appreciated in small pots any 
that are growing too large may be carefully divided. Give these a close 
moist shaded position until root action and growth commence. 
Allamandas. —If these are growing where the atmosphere is rather 
dry, syringe them freely twice a day, or they may become a prey to 
yellow thrips. This establishes itself in the points of the shoots, and if 
not destroyed it will quickly injure them. The two best methods is to 
dip the shoots in a solution of tobacco water, or dust them with 
tobacco powder. These thrips dislike water, and if the syringe is used 
thoroughly will give very little trouble. Plants that have filled their 
pots with roots and are flowering well may be top-dressed with equal 
portions of loam and manure. Feed also with weak stimulants every 
time water is needed. Any shoots that are extending loo far without 
showing flower may be cut back to where the wood is firm, which 
will induce them to flower. 
iHE BEE-KEEPER. 
'4 
NOTES ON BEES- 
The We.\tiieu. 
During the greater part of May and June the weather has been 
unfavourable for bees, and, except in some parts of the West High¬ 
lands, appears to be general. The highest temperature for June 
till the 13th was 78^, on the 10th : and the lowest 31®, on the 7th. 
Nothing is injured by frost, but the bees have been kept much 
within doors, and all swarms have had to be fed, and sorae 
unswarmed ones have deposed their queen and thrown out their 
surplus queens. The barometer is now high, and the aspect of the 
sky indicates finer weather, and as Clover is coming rapidly there 
will be no lack of bees to carry in the honey abundantly, and m 
spite of all we can do to prevent them swarms will come off if the- 
weather is favourable. On the first indication of honey being- 
gathered in quantity we shall super, but not till then, the average 
time of supering -n-ith us being about 18th June, hut the season, is, 
earlier this year. 
Supering to Prevent Swar.ming. 
This is frequently advised, but such advice is unwise in the- 
extreme, because in most cases queen excluder zinc has to be 
placed between the already too small brood nest and supers. It is 
the want of sufficient breeding space, or an exhausted queen (and 
they are numerous this year), that causes bees to swarm. Often- 
have I mentioned this, and the accompanying letter from “ J, W.”^ 
corroborates my opinion 
“ Do you think that the B.B.A. standard size of frame is too 
small ? I am sure that it is, and that a frame 10 inches deep in 
place of 8 inches would be more suitable, and there would be less 
fear of swarming. If you give a queen enough breeding space she 
will not throw off. I notice in the • Bee Journal,’ that the Editor 
cautions his readers to give the bees plenty of room in plenty of 
time to prevent swarming (by placing supers on, &c.). They do- 
not seem to know that it is not the bees that require room ; it is 
the mother that needs it, and what does it matter to give her only 
nine or ten frames with perforated zinc on top, and any amount of 
super room ? If she had "say ten bars the standard length, but 
10 inches deep, do you think this would prevent swarming ? I am 
thinking of selling off the boxes I have and adopting this size for 
my own use. Bees here are in good trim, but the weather is un¬ 
favourable, and the Clover is now making an appearance.—J. W.”" 
Certain members of the B.B.K.A. have frequently boasted of 
what expense they have been at in bringing the bee and the cottager 
together, and to understand each other, as well as the great success 
of their undertakings, but immediately following their intimations 
comes the appeal to the public for more money, with the significant 
hint that their successful undertakings will be a failure unless their 
request is responded to. Bee-keeping is spread in Scotland by 
philanthropic gentlemen at their own expense, assisting cottagers- 
with bees as well as hives, and a pound or two is better and 
more economically spent than when it is entrusted to any Bee 
Association. 
Sw.\r.ming. 
This and the deposition of queens will, I am sure, be more 
frequent this year than many may suppose, and I feel justified im 
giving the warning note, and tell the reason why. Hives were* 
extra well stocked with bees during autumn, breeding began at its 
usual time, but to a far greater extent than is usually the case> 
The weather since March came in has been most destructive on bee- 
life, hence queens are either entirely worn out or partly so, and 
are unable to keep up the laying at the season the bCes demand it. 
When this occurs royal cells are raised, and the old queen (whether 
the hive is crowded or not) comes away with a swarm or is deposed. 
Under circumstances as above many first swarms will come off 
having one or many young queens ; if the latter, watch will have to 
be kept or the whole, or part of the swarm may leave the hive after 
the owner may think all is well. If the old queen survives, and 
comes with a swarm, being in a worn out condition, the bees will 
raise young ones, and the old queen will either be deposed or may 
come off with what is termed a virgin swarm. If the former, a 
young queen will issue with the swarm. Whichever may happen 
there will be a renewal of queens, and queenless hives or drone- 
producing queens may be expected. 
The bee-keeper this year will have to give greater attention tG 
see all is well before it is too late. The foregoing is no mere 
