638 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 2i, 1890 . 
WOKK.fo^theWEEK.. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Strawberkies. —There 13 every prospect of a very heavy crop of 
Strawberries being had this season, the first fruit being much finer than 
usual ; this probably being due to immunity from destructive late frosts, 
and which often spoil the earliest flowers. Where there has not been 
sufficient rain to well soak the ground a heavy watering ought to be 
applied, the preference being given to pond or softened water. In most 
instances it is advisable to anticipate dryness, as when once the ground 
becomes dry about the plants it is almost useless to attempt re-mo'stening 
it. Where the fruit rests on the ground, or rather the mulching of strawy 
litter, it is unwise to use any kind of liquid manure, nor is this necessary 
if an early surfacing of soot and wood ashes, guano, or some kind of 
special manure was given, as it ought to have been. 
Strawberries during a Wet Season. —The foliage is very 
strong this summer, and should we have a long spell of dull shovrery 
weather, the chances are the bulk of the fruit will fail to ripen. Wire 
crinolines, which can be bought at a comparatively cheap rate, are of 
the greatest service in bad weather, and failing these, rough substitutes 
could be made from old fencing wire. These crinolines are not only 
good aids to ripening, but they also keep the fruit clean, and well out of 
the way of slugs and insects generally. Much might be done with a 
few stakes and strips of matting, taking care not to unduly bundle 
leaves and fruit all up together. Birch and hazel spray again might be 
used for propping up fruit, and those who have the time to spare for 
this work wi'l, let the weather be what it may, have good reason to be 
satisfied with the result of their labours. 
Increasing Choice Strawberries. —Strawberries are very easily 
increased in great numbers, but those who are anxious to propagate 
choice varieties must use a certain amount of self-denial at the present 
time. Quite the smallest plants attempt to fruit; some varieties, 
including the popular Laxton’s Noble, producing, if left alone, sur¬ 
prisingly heavy crops. There is no reason why a few early or extra fine 
fruit should not be taken from young plants generally, though it is 
most unwise to allow them to crop to their full extent. Therefore 
remove all but two or three of the largest fruit on each, and thereby 
favour the production of strong runners in great abundance. Trampling 
among the plants leads to the crushing and ruination of numerous 
runners, and that is another reason why the fruit should be early 
removed. Place a good flat ridge of loamy compost between the rows, 
and into this peg down all the runners as they form, and before they 
lose the roots they inevitably push out. Do not detach any of the runners 
from the parent plant, at any rate before they are strongly rooted, nor 
stop the runners the young plants push out. Keep them well supplied 
with water in dry weather. In this way hundreds, or even thousands, 
of well-rooted plants will be ready for finally planting out early in 
August. This will be found a more simple and better plan than 
layering into pots. 
Watering Fruit Trees. —Trees growing against south walls 
rarely get sufficient water, this being especially the case with those 
partially protected by copings of some kind. An examination of the 
ground at the foot of the walls will most probably disclose the fact 
that water is wanted badly, and after it has been carefully loosened 
with a fork, at least two good waterings ought to be given. Driblets 
are simply thrown aw.ay, and if liquid manure is applied, as it might 
well be in the case of heavily cropped old trees, it ought to follow a 
good soaking of clear water. It is also advisable to lightly remove the 
surface soil for a yard or more, if possible, from the wall, returning 
this again on the top of a good mulching of half-decayed manure. Old 
Morello and other Cherry trees also well repay for this timely attention, 
moisture at the roots being most necessary when the trees are located 
on a raised and somewhat dry position. 
Grape Vines. —These, in common with most other hardy fruit, give 
good promise at the outset, and if we are favoured with a fairly hot 
Bummer, useful crops may be obtained. The disbudding and stopping 
of the laterals are important details that ought not to be neglected, 
everything possible being done to hasten the flowering and ripening 
period. Thin out the laterals freely, stop those reserved at either the 
first or second joint beyond the bunch, and either tie in or nail to the 
trellis or wall at once, the warmth of the wall greatly assisting progress. 
Very old rods frequently fail to bear fruit, and it is advisable, therefore, 
to lay in young growths to take their place. Stop these and any other 
leading shoots when about 6 feet long, the laterals also being kept closely 
stopped at the first joint. Unless this is done the canes may fail to 
harden and ripen properly. 
Thinning Outdoor Ge. 4 .pes. —Strong well ripened canes trained 
«p extra warm walls frequently produce fine bunches, and these, in 
j.ddition to being reduced in number, or treated much the same as 
indoor Vines, also pay for having the berries thinned out. This is 
especially desirable in the case of Black Hamburgh, but the common 
Sweetwater ought also to be lightly thinned out. Unthinned the berries 
are comparatively small, and they jam together, also ripening and keeping 
badly. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Early Forced Continuous 
early forcing to ripen the fruit in May when such varieties as Hale’s 
Early, Early Alfred, Early Grosse Mignonne, and Royal George are 
employed is a serious strain upon the energies of the trees, as they have 
to make the growth during the early spring months and complete it in 
the early summer. These varieties, good as they are, are superseded 
for very early forcing by the American varieties introduced by Mr. 
Rivers—viz, Alexander and Waterloo. They are clingstones, yet good. 
To ripen at the close of April or early in May those need not be started 
before the new year, but to have the first named ripe in May the houses 
must be started early in December, which is a consideration from a 
cultural as well as economical point of view. For very early forcing a 
house that affords accommodation for one or two trees of each of the 
very early varieties is a great convenience and a great aid to successful 
practice, as when trees are ripening their fruits they require a different 
regime from those swelling their crops, and the necessity of starting so 
early is, as regards most establishments, considerably lessened, whereby 
the trees make their growth under more advantageous circumstances. 
After the fruit is all gathered in the early houses ventilate to the fullest 
extent, if possible removing the roof lights entirely by the early part of 
July, but guided in this respect by the maturity, or otherwise, of the 
wood and buds ; if mature remove the lights earlier, if not let them 
remain a time longer. When the roof lights are not moveable, in addi¬ 
tion to full ventilation the border should be frequently damped and 
duly watered, so that no check is given to induce the premature ripening 
of the young wood and leaves. Keep the latter free from red spider 
by syringing occasionally, and if necessary apply an insecticide, as it 
is of the utmost importance that the foliage be kept clean, healthy and 
ripen naturally. Laterals must be stopped, but where there is space to 
allow of growth being made without overcrowding encourage it, as a 
steady and continuous growth by promoting root action will prevent 
the buds and foliage maturing too early. All shoots that have supported 
fruit and are no longer required should be removed to admit light and 
air freely to the growths, and if there is too much crow ling of the shoots 
for next year’s bearing thin them well to make space for the free 
admission of light and air, and the action of water upon the foliage to 
cleanse and keep free of red spider. 
Houses with Fruit R 'peniny .—Gentle fire heat is necessary during 
cold nights and on dull days to ensure steady progress, and admit 
a little air constantly to insure flavour. It is also necessary to assist 
the later varieties in swelling and finishing. Afford a moderate air 
moisture for the benefit of the foliage, and do not allow the borders 
to become dried and cracked, but afford water as required to keep the 
soil moist, and a mulching of rather littery material will keep the soil 
moist, in a condition favourable to keeping the roots near the surface 
and active, and that without undue atmospheric moisture. If the 
weather be very bright some netting spread over the roof lights will 
be advantageous alike to foliage and fruit, particularly the latter, 
especially the thin-skinned varieties as Noblesse, in preventing the fruit 
being unduly heated by the sun’s rays, causing the fruit to ripen at the 
apex, greatly in advance of the lower parts, and the fruit not infre¬ 
quently decays there through over-ripeness, whilst the lower part is 
scarcely fit for use. This is a serious disaster, as the finest fruits ripening 
most slowly are more likely to be damaged than the smaller ; and as all 
fruits are best ripened gradually than roasted, as is sometimes done 
under the large and clear panes of glass rightly employed in modern 
fruit houses, it is necessary during a peiiod of intense heat to afford a 
slight shade. It is easy in a period of very hct weather to apply a 
double thickness of herring nets, or a single thickness of pilchard net, 
which will sufficiently break the force of the most powerful sunlight, 
ensuring the fruit an evenness of ripening. 
Young Trees .—These will have been disbudded, and the shoots regu¬ 
lated so that the principal ones will be 12 to 15 inches apart, and those 
for next year’s fruiting originated from the previous year’s shoots dis¬ 
posed about 15 inches asunder along them, stopping them if necessary 
at 15 inches of growth, and the laterals to one joint as produced. 
The extensions or main shoots should be trained in their full length, 
provided they are evenly balanced. If the shoots are stronger on one 
side chan the other, depress the strong and elevate the weak, so as to 
induce an equal distribution of vigour throughout each tree. Any 
strong shoots unduly vigorous may be stopped, as grossness is the fore¬ 
runner of gum. Trees marked by gross wood when young seldom turn 
out healthy, therefore it is better to cut out excessively strong wood, 
encouraging the short-jointed and Sturdy. Ventilate early in the day, 
increasing it with the advancing temperature, avoiding a close vitiated 
atmosphere. It is essential that the growths be trained sufficiently thin 
to allow of the sun and air having free access, the growths being 
thoroughly solidified as made, the foliage kept healthy by cleanliness 
and proper cultural necessities, so that the buds may be duly supplied 
with nutriment, and accumulation made in the adjacent wood of ela¬ 
borated matter for the due setting of the blossom and the stoning of 
the fruit in the ensuing season. 
StraiL'herries hi Pots .—Outdoor fruit is late, therefore the resources 
of the cultivator will be taxed to make those in pots afford a supply 
of fruit until those in the open ground come in. Late supplies can be 
obtained in structures from which bedding plants have been removed. 
