Jnne 20, 189a ] 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
639 
from shelves in wall cases, and from span-roofed frames placed over the 
rows of plants in the open, which will be ten days to a fortnight in 
advance of those similarly located in the open. All points considered, 
one of the most satisfactory of Strawberries is Sir Joseph Paxton, 
it ripens rather early, and supplies a long succession of finely 
flavoured fruit in the fullest crop. For early forcing w'e place reliance 
on La Grossc Sucr6e and Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, which, 
though smaller, is better flavoured than La Grosse Sucr6e, but there 
is no comparison of the appearance of the two, and appearance goes a 
long way in fruit, particularly for marketing purposes. La Grosse 
SucriSe is large in size, bright —even glowing—in colour, and well 
flavoured, though lacking the Pine flavour of the other. We find La 
Grosse SucriSe too large for jellies, and in some places the cook or still- 
room maid makes large calls for a few fruits for jelly. Some pro¬ 
prietors of gardens require fruit early, in the dressing-room in fact, and 
the Vicomtes.se Hericart de Thury brings eulogiums, whilst La Grosse 
Sucrde brings admiration with a qualification— i.e., “ Fine Strawberries, 
but they want sun,” therefore flavour. Noble and Auguste Nicaise are 
also somewhat deficient in quality. They, however, are so fine in 
appearance and such free setters, swellers, and finishers that they 
are a necessity at table. Sir Harry is so deep in colour when well 
ripened as to have the mellow flavour some particularly appreciate, and 
there is something in this dark yet glowing colour which seems to cause 
preference to be given thereto, as obtains with Waterloo, these being 
very full flavoured without the briskness of the lighter-coloured 
varieties. We mention these matters, as it makes just all the difference 
between pleasing and not in the cultivator studying the tastes, or at 
least taking notice of what is and what is not appreciated by the 
employer, so as to grow in accordance with requirements. Sir Joseph 
Paxton seems to please everybody, at least we have never had a com¬ 
plaint respecting it, only it requires time to ripen fully to the tip, and 
President always commands appreciation, though it requires a rather 
dry atmosphere to ripen without spotting. Mr. Radclyffe and James 
Veitch yield to none in size and crop, but they do not take like the 
brilliant scarlet or crimson of Sir Charles Napier or Marguerite, the 
latter attaining to an enormous size, and has a sprightly flavour (which 
some find retained in jam), while Sir Charles Napier is brisk—qualities 
which have many admirers. British Queen, Dr. Hogg, and Cockscomb 
are matchless for quality and for late forcing unrivalled, as they crop 
well and finish satisfactorily in a rather dry or well ventilated 
atmosphere. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Spring Floioering Jiitlbs. — As a rule the less spring flowering 
bulbs are disturbed the better, at any rate till such times as they 
have become so thick in the clumps or rows as to need dividing. 
Even in the latter case the bulbs should not be interfered with till the 
autumn, not a few, notably the Narcissi, dividing best when active top 
and root growth has commenced. Hyacinths and Narcissi necessarily 
lifted from beds in order to prepare the latter for summer occupants, 
are rarely of any value the following spring, fresh bulbs being needed 
for the beds, or the display will be a failure. But if they are planted 
in the borders or any sunny position where they will not be disturbed 
for several seasons, many of them will eventually spread and do well. 
Tulips form fresh bulbs more quickly, and these. Crocuses. Snowdrops 
and Scillas, after being laid in the ground till the foliage is ripened off, 
may be lifted, stored in boxes of sand during the summer, and replanted 
next autumn. The less Anemones are disturbed the better, but if they 
must be lifted, wait till the foliage is dead, then lift, dry, and store in 
sand. Ranunculuses, however, are safest out of the ground, being lifted 
after the foliage is ripened off, dried, and stored in boxes in a cool 
dry shed. 
Seed to be Sown .—Aquilegias are a very beautiful class of plants. 
If the seed is sown now in boxes or pans and set in a rather cool 
position, it will germinate freely wdth or without a glass covering, and 
the seedlings being duly pricked out and transplanted will most probably 
flower strong in June next. Brompton Stocks, Wallflowers, Forget-me- 
nots, Sweet Williams may yet be sown, but very strong plants will not 
be obtained. In this instance the simplest plan is to sow seed where the 
plants are to flower. Sheltered borders are good positions for this class 
of plants, the ground being manured and got into a finely divided state. 
Open shallow drills about 9 inches apart, well moisten these prior to sow¬ 
ing the seal thinly, and cover the latter with fine soil. If the plants come 
up rather thickly, the thinnings may be pricked out elsewhere, and 
either single plants or patches may be moved wi^h a trowel later on. 
Pansies may also be sown cither in boxes or on a well prepared border, 
and if Hollyhocks are raised in a similar manner capital strong plants 
may be prepared for flow’ering next season. 
Shrubs and Conifers .—Where these are used for furnishing beds 
during the winter, and for which purpose many species are very effec¬ 
tive, they must be taken good care of during the summer, or otherwise 
a valuable stock may soon be decimated. Being properly “balled” 
when received from the nurseries or transplanted from other quarters 
they can be safely moved at almost any time. In many instances they 
are temjxirarily laid-in by the heels till the work of refilling the beds is 
completed, but if left in this state they are certain to spoil each other. 
I n the flower beds every small tree or shrub stands clear of each other, 
and they ought to have quite as much room in their summer quarters. 
Dryness at the roots is a frequent cause of numerous failures. VV'hen 
once the balls of soil and roots become thoroughly dry it is not possible 
to re-moisten them by ordinary means. This being a comparatively dry 
season there is all the more necessity to closely examine the state of the 
soil. All that are dry should be well soaked in buckets or tubs of water 
prior to replinting them in gootl light soil and a cool position, the rest 
being heavily watered after they are planted. During a dry summer 
frequent overhead waterings and a soaking occasionally are needed,, 
mulchings of some kind being given early in any case. 
Spring Bedding Plants. — The stock of old plants of various 
early flowering perennials again must not be neglected any longer, 
always supposing these too are laid in thickly by their heels till a con¬ 
venient time arrives for dividing and replanting them. A north or othes 
cool border, the soil of which is not stiff and lumpy, best suits thtf 
majority of them, and a few handlights are also of good service in 
striking any of the rootless divisions of Aubrietias, Alyssums, 
Hepaticas, Myosotises, choice or double Wallflowers, Euonymus 
radicans variegata. Pansies, and Violas. All the pieces of any of the 
foregoing with roots attached may be dibbled out firmly 4 inches or 
rather more apart in rows 9 inches asunder, a good watering occa¬ 
sionally with perhaps a temporary shading serving to give them a good 
start. A cool position is also the best for handlights, the cuttings being 
shaded in bright weather, and temporarily bedded out as soon as they 
are well rooted. Primulas, Primroses, Polyanthuses, Daisies, Pansies, 
Violas, and Saxifrages divide readily, and if the divisions are bedded out 
in a cool position, and otherwise well attended, a good stock of healthy 
plants will be available for the flower beds next autumn. 
Seedling Polyanthuses and Primroses .—The strains of these, the 
first named in particular, are so very much improved that quite gorgeous, 
displays are made by them in the spring, Seedlin? plants are more 
vigorous and far more effective than any raised by dividing old plants, 
but they must be raised in March or April, and otherwise well pre¬ 
pared. Instead of long keeping them crowded together in seed pans or 
boxes the seedlings ought first to be pricked out in other pans or boxes, 
and kept in frames till June. By the present time they would be large 
enough to put out on a cool border, plenty of leaf soil or other fine soil 
being added to this if at all stiff or lumpy. Plant them about 5 inches- 
apart each way, and keep them well supplied with water. Thus treated, 
fine strong plants will be ready when wanted, and being duly trans¬ 
planted to beds of rich loamy soil, the ultimate result will more than 
compensate for the extra trouble taken. 
NOTES ON BEES- 
PiiESEiivixt; Bees. 
The preservation of bees during the winter has had great 
attention for many years, and much has been written upon the 
subject, the greater portion, being of little value. The art of 
preserving bees during winter may be summed up thus. Keep the 
hives protected from rain, and carry off the internal moisture by- 
insensible upward ventilation, by coverings of dried grass, and by a 
narrow doorway and a ventilating floor. With large stores a 
capacious hive, having a fair quantity of bees and a young 
naturally reared queen, and the severest winter ever experienced in 
this country will not harm them. 
Spring and Summer Dwindling. 
It is not winter, but dwindling in spring and summer that is- 
the bane of bee-keeping, and which baffles the bee-keeper in his 
endeavours to do his best to tide his bees over times and seasons 
disastrous to them, and at the very times, too, when everything 
favourable might be expected. Such is the state of matters here- 
this year. Since June came in we have not had a dry day, the' 
sun is rarely seen, and since May commenced we have only had' 
three days at all bright, and so wet was the soil that killing weeds 
by Dutch hoeing could only partially be effected on two of these 
days. When I wrote on the 13th inst. I was in hopes the weather 
was improving; the reverse has been the case, and it is now 
(June 20th) as stormy and bleak looking as ever. The loss of bees 
continues, hives are no more crowded than they were at the middle 
of April, and in addition to the loss of adult bees, drawing brood 
and the deposition of queens are going on alarmingly, and young" 
queens hatched as early as the middle of 3Iay have not had the 
slightest chance of flying. There is no alternative, but feeding the 
bees if they are to be kept alive, but even with that there is risk 
that many hives will become useless unless the weather improves- 
